THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



THREE YEARS 



THE PACIFIC; 



INCLUDING 



NOTICES OF 



BRAZIL, CHILE, BOLIVIA, AND PERU. 



BY 
AN OFFICER OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY. 



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"Comme a mes chers amis je vous veux tout conter." — Corneille. 







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PHILADELPHIA":* 











CAREY, LEA & BLANCHARD. 
1834. 



Entered, according to the Act of Congress ^ in the year 1834, 

BY CAREY, LEA & BLANCHARD, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States in 

and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 







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PRINTED BT ZTSIA R> BAII.ET, NO. 26 NOBTH 7IFTH STBEET. 



^93 



o 



/> 



TO 



FRANCIS H. GREGORY, ESQ., 

COMMANDER IN THE UNITED STATES NAVY ; 
AS 

A SLIGHT TRIBUTE 

V TO 

HIS TALENTS AS AN OFFICER, AND HIS VIRTUES AS A MAN, 

THIS WORK 

IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, 

BY HIS FRIEND, 

THE AUTHOR. 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION. 
Introductory — Getting under way — Getting to Sea, - . - - 9 

NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 

CHAPTER I. 

Entrance to Rio de Janeiro-^The Sugar Loaf — Glance round the harbor 
— The Corcovado — G16ria Church — The City — Praya Grande, - 17' 

CHAPTER II. 

Walk in the streets of Rio — Imperial Chapels — ^Rua Direita — Slaves — 
Rua d'Ouvidor — Marimba — Abdication of Dom Pedro — Regency of 
Pedro II., - - - 23 

CHAPTER III. 

Museum — Aqueduct — ^Banana tree — Farinha — ^Policemen — Slave of a na- 
turalist — Casa da Agua, - -^- - - - - - 36 

CHAPTER IV. 
The Opera — The Currency, 42 

CHAPTER V. 
The Botanic Garden — A Peep at Court, --.-.. 45 

CHAPTER VI. 

A walk — A ride — A dinner party, 52 

CHAPTER VII. 

Architecture — Cries — Market — Churches — Cemetery of San Francisco 
de Paula — Funerals — Climate — Prison — Slave market — Library — News- 
pap ers, .. .._ 60 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Geography of Brazil — Products — Diamond Mines, - - - - 65 

CHAPTER IX. 

Departure — ^Voyage round Cape Horn—Cape Pigeons, - - - 72 



ym CONTENTS. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 



CHAPTER I. 

Arrival at Valparaiso — Bay — Appearance of the place — Landing — Town 
— Market — Scenes in the street — Costume — Oracidn — Plaza — Cries — 
Beggars, -- 8t 

CHAPTER n. 

Society — Introduction to a Family — Costume — Furniture — Mate — Sing- 
ing — Cigars — Presenting of Flowers — Leave-taking — Traits of Charac- 
ter — A day visit — Anecdote — Tertulia on a Sunday evening — Dancing 
— «« El cuindo"—" La Perdi'z"— Foreign Society, ... 92 

CHAPTER HL 

Ride to Santiago — Mode of Travelling — Peonada — The honey palm — Car- 
retas — Mode of descending hills — Penuelas — Throwing the lazo — A 
bivouac — Casablanca — Posada — Mode of making butter — Bread — Cu- 
esta de Zapata — Bustamente — Breakfast — Cuesta del Prado — A view — 
Entrance to Santiago — Custom house officers — Table of Barometric 
observations, .-.- 107 

CHAPTER IV. 

Fonda Ingldsa and inmates — ^Fonda del Comercio and Fonda de la Nacion 
— Site of Santiago — Description of the city — Its founding — Plaza — 
Shops — Book stores — Dead bodies exposed before the prison early in 
the morning — Siesta — Shopping at night — Ladies — Costume, - 125 

CHAPTER V. 

Tajamar — Military Academy — Militia System — San Liines — Alameda — 
An evening visit — Card playing — National Institute — Schools — Socie- 
dad Filarm6nica — Otavario — Procession — Praying for rain— State of 
medicine and pharmacy, .- 133 

CHAPTER VI. 

Visit CoHna — Law of primogeniture — A senator — A family dinner — Face 
of the country — Ploughing — Sowing — Baths — Friar of San Felipe — 
Don Jose — Return to Valparaiso — Storm on the road, - . . 143 

CHAPTER Vn. 

Goquimbo bay — La Serena — Salute — Balsas — The Port — Commerce — 
Condors— The City — Distress by drought — Society — Trade, - 152 



CONTENTS. M 



NOTICES OF BOLIVIA. 

CHAPTER I. 

Bay of Mexillones — Cobija — Soil — Landing- — Balsa — Town — Old trees — 
Scarcity of water — Commerce — Visit to Uie copper mines — Catica, 163 

CHAPTER II. 
Historical sketch of Bolivia — Its productions — Coca, ... 174 

NOTICES OF PERU, 

CHAPTER L 

Callao Bay — Island of San Lorenzo — Entering Callao — Castles— Ancient 
defence of Callao — Town of Callao — Market — Water — The Mole — Re- 
mains of " Old Callao," - 181 

CHAPTER n. 
Ride to Lima — The Road — Monument — Bellavista — Treasure — Church 
of Palms — Market women — Tambo de la Legua — Church — Negroes 
dancing — Mules and asses — Alameda de la Portada — Meet a pleasure 
party — Lima gate — ^^Entrance to the city — Animas — First'view of "the 
street of Callao," 190 

CHAPTER in. 
History of the founding of Lima, - 200 

CHAPTER IV. 

Topography and climate of Lima — Plan and divisions of the city — ^Walls 
— Distribution of property — Population— Religious communities, 203 

CHAPTER V. 
Plaza — Portales — Palace — Cathedral — Archbishop's palace — Fountains 
— The Plaza by day, and by night — Segarr^ros — Pic4ntes — Barquillos 
—Ice, 212 

CHAPTER VL 
Saya y Manto — Scenes in the street — Police — Market — Cherimoya — Pal- 
ta— Granadilla— Caf^s, 220 

CHAPTER \Il. 

Convent of St. Augustin — Monastery of La Incarnacion — Convent of San- 
to Domingo — Negros Bozales — Convent of San Francisco — Our Lady 
of Mercies — San Pedro — Library — Churches — Bells — Inquisition — Mu- 
seum — ^University of St. Mark — Hall of Deputies — Charities — Hospitals, 229 
1* 



r CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VUI. 

The Cathedral — The Sagrario — Oracion — The B6veda — Death of Pizarro 
— His interment, 247 

CHAPTER IX. 

Morning visits — A family — Conversation — Difficult for foreigners to enter - 
society — Female education — Ignorance of Geography — Provincialisms 
— A tertiilia — Monte al dao — Use of Tobacco — Morale of Lima society 
— Habits of the ladies — A good trait in the Lima character— Gambling, 262 

CHAPTER X. 

Sunday in Lima — Books — Mach^ro — Misturas — Puchero deplores — Street 
of peril — Scene on the Alameda — Cock-pit — Theatre, ... 275 

CHAPTER XL 
Bull-bait— Plaza del Acho, 283 

CHAPTER XH. 

Nacimi^ntos — Christmas Eve — Christmas — Ride to Chorillos— Salteadores 
— Bathing — Harbor of Chorillos — Callao — La Presidenta — Carnival — 
Miraflores — Magdalena, ........ 293 

CHAPTER Xm. 
St. John's day — Amancaes, ..--.--- 300 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Dia de Santa Rosa — Birth-day customs — Life of Santa Rosa, - - 305 

CHAPTER XV. 

Day of All Saints — Pantheon — Responses — Mode of burial — Obsequies — 
Collecting alms for masses — Day after All Saints — Funeral expenses— 
A patriotic curate — Rapacity of curates — Cofradia or burying company 
— Marriage ceremony — Marriage fees — Difficult for foreigners to marry 
in Peru — Clandestine marriage, --..--- 312 

CHAPTER XVL 

Influence of priests over society — Perpetual light — Priests rule familieg— 
Confession — Penances — Money paid for expiation of sin — Nov^nas — 
Superstition — Preaching — Bulas de Cruzada — Character of the clergy 
— Notions about religious toleration — Supremacy of the Pope — " Car- 
tas Peruanas," 321 

CHAPTER XVn. 

Arica — Appearance from the Anchorage — Mole — Advertisements — 
Streets — School — Water and provisions — Ancient Cemetery — Found- 
ing of Arica — Population — Products — Commerce — Guano, - - 338 



CONTENTS. XI 

CHAPTER XVin. 

Islay — Landing place — Town — Arequipanian ladies — Post-office regula- 
tion — ^Notions of the captain of the port about politics, - - 345 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Pisco, from the anchorage — Landing — Ancient Pisco — Town — A ride — 
Salinas — Commerce — Captain of the Port, - . . . . 353 

CHAPTER XX. 

Guarraey — ^Ferrol — Samanco — ^Nepena, 358 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Santa^ — Bathing — A prison scene — An execution, .... 369 

CHAPTER XXn. 

Huanchaco — Balsas — Landing — Port — Road to Trusillo — The Grand Chi- 
mu, and his war with the Incas — City of Truxillo — "El Quipos del 
Chimu" — A nunnery and a nun — ^Pacasmayo — Spinning — Ride to San 
Pedro — A Governor — A Colonel — Hospitable reception, - - 379 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Lambayeque Roads — Derivation of the name of the Pacific — Landing — 
San Jos^ — Balsa — Ride to Lambayeque — Plaza — The Capiis, a dress 
worn previous to the Conquest — A curious currency — The Church — 
A morning visit — Chicharias — Huacas— Chicha — Gourds — Indians- 
Town — Products — Visit Chlclayo — Factoria de Tobacos — Soap making 
— Tanning — Palm Sunday — Return to Lambayeque — Passion week — 
Scenes at the Chichan'a and Billiard room — Mode of embarking, 388 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Paita— Bay — Town — Piura— Whalers — A fish story, - - - 414 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Geography of Peru — Repartimientos — Mita System — General La Mar — 
General Gamarra, - 417 

CHAPTER XXVL 
Valedictory to the south-west coast of America, and return home, - 435 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The following pages are the result of observations made 
during two cruises in the Pacific Ocean, one of more than three 
years, on board of the U. S. S. Brandywine, from August 
1826, to October 1S29, and the last on board of the U. S. S. 
Falmouth, from June 1831, to February 1834, and recorded 
with a hope of making my countrymen better acquainted with 
some of the peculiarities of their southern neighbors. 

As far as the nature of the work would permit, the author 
has avoided obtruding himself upon the attention of the reader, 
and has indulged in but few reflections ; being content to pre- 
sent naked facts, and allow each one to dress them for himself, 
and draw his own conclusions. The merits of the perform- 
ance, with its many imperfections, remain to be decided by the 
public, from whom is claimed all the indulgence usually accord- 
ed to novices in undertakings of the kind. 



0^ The word " huaca," which occurs several times in the "Notices of Pe- 
ru," is pronounced as if it were written waca. The words in Spanish, which 
begin with hua and Jua, are pronounced as if written with W ; thus, Huanchaco 
is pronounced Wanchaco; Juanita, Wanita, &c. 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



INTRODUCTION. 

Introductory — Getting under way — Getting to Sea. 

Sea-gqing people, and particularly sailoi*s, for there is a 
distinction to be made between them, derive a pleasure from 
looking at a vessel, which landsmen cannot comprehend. Next 
to woman, nothing can fix the admiring gaze of a thorough 
bred seaman, so soon as a ship. When he views her from the 
shore, sitting buoyantly on the water, his eye roves quickly 
over her side from stem to stern, and carefully notes her pro- 
portions, her paint, the line of her ports and guns, with bright 
tompions reflecting the sun*s rays, her shear, and model gene- 
rally. The next look is aloft. There he scans the nice propor- 
tion and symmetry of her spars ; if the examination be satisfac- 
tory, he pronounces her "a splendid model — clean run and 
neat aloft,'' mentally deciding that she sits on the water like a 
duck, and must be a good sea-boat. If he is to become an in- 
mate on board, from that moment he feels a growing affection 
for hei*, and will not hear her faults mentioned without attempt- 
ing a defence. He speaks her praises with delight, and takes 
as much pleasure in her decoration, as a city belle possibly can 
in that of her own person ; — his ship occupies a place in his 
mind, only second to that of his wife or sweetheart. 

Without possessing the discriminating eye of a tar, I enjoy, 
in a high degree, the sight of a fine ship at her moorings, and 

when I first looked upon the F , I felt a "yearning to- 

2 



10 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

wards" her. Yet this is not that warm, adoring sort of love, 
inspired by woman, but rather such attachment as we feel for 

a favorite dog or horse. Though the F be not a perfect 

specimen of naval architecture, she is looked on favorably by 
those, ''trained to command and range the various sail," and 
her accommodations, both for officers and men, will bear com- 
parison with those of any sloop-of-war in the service. 

Having prepared every thing for my voyage, in June, 1831, 
I found myself on board, waiting only for a favorable wind. I 
had parted from my friends. Recollection is still fresh with 
the conflict between the anticipation of new scenes and the 
regret of separation, the resolution to part without a sigh, the 
benedictions of parting friends, the gazing after one, the ma- 
ternal blessing and last advice, breathed in tones of affection. 
The words of a mother at such a time are like a warning voice 
from Heaven, and like that voice, too frequently disregarded ; 
— one's feelings almost bubble up at the thought, in spite of all 
that philosophy may teach ! 

" It is a bitter trial to forsake, 
E'en for a season, in this changeful world. 
The things we cherish !" 

One morning, while looking over the beautiful bay, and 
gazing on the fair city of New York, that seemed to rise out 
of the bosom of the waters, the boatswain shouted, in the deep, 
gruff tone, peculiar to those of his office, " all hands, up an- 
chor ahoy !" 

The first lieutenant, the moving spring of the active and 
ready crew, stood upon the poop, trumpet in hand. The offi- 
cers were called to their respective stations ; the capstan bars 
placed and manned ; the messenger passed. Silence reigned 
" fore and aft." The '' first" applied the trumpet to his mouth, 
and in an under tone, gave the order, ''heave round." 

The "lads" stepped away to the music of the merry fife, 
and with light hearts, timed " Off she goes" till the anchor 
was apeak. 

" High enough," cried the second lieutenant, who was sta- 
tioned on the forecastle. 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

*' Pall the capstan — unship the bars — lay aloft top-men — 
lower-yard-men in the rigging," were the successive orders, 
and at once, the masts appeared like living pyramids of nimbly 
moving seamen. 

" Aloft lower-yard-men," and they followed to their stations. 
"Close in, you Sirs, close in." The men were now seen in 
the tops, under them, and near the yards, ready to spring for- 
ward at the next word, which they seemed eager to anticipate, 
for it was necessary to repeat the admonition, "to keep close 
in," to prevent them from immediately gaining the ends of 
the various yards. The orders were now given in the full tone 
of command. 

" Trice up — lay out — loose away." In a second, the stud- 
ding sail booms rose ; the sail-loosers were hanging over the 
yards, untying the cords v^ich secured the sails in their posi- 
tions, and the next moment all was still — not a finger moved. 

*' Stand by- — are you ready there fore and aft ?" " All ready, 
Sir," replied a midshipman from each of the tops. 

" Let fall — sheet home and hoist away the topsails — cheerly 
with the main, cheerly." At the word, all the canvass, which 
heretofore had been concealed by being neatly folded on the 
yards, fell at the same instant into beautiful festoons, and the 
men briskly descended to the deck. The next moment the 
topsails were hoisting, and the fifes playing " The girls we 
left behind us," as the crew marched along the deck with the 
haulyards, keeping time to the music. 

"Tramp the deck boys, tramp the deck," cried the second 
lieutenant in an encouraging tone, and the time was marked 
louder than ever. 

"High enough with the mizen — belay the mizen topsail 
haulyards," cried the fifth lieutenant. "Belay the mizen top- 
sail haulyards," echoed a midshipman in a youthful key, and 
the boatswain's mate piped, belay ! 

"Belay the fore-topsail haulyards — high enough with the 
main — belay the main topsail haulyards," succeeded pretty 
rapidly, attended by the same echoing and piping as before. 

Again the capstan bars were placed, or rather "shipped," 



12 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and the order given to " heave round." The next moment, the 
*' second" cried, "high enough." 

" Pall the capstan — unship the bars — forward to the ^ cat' — 
move, lads, move — " replied the '^ first" in the full tone of a 
manly voice, unaided by his trumpet. A few seconds only 
passed, and the anchor rested on the bows. 

"Man the jib haulyards." 

*' All manned. Sir," replied the "second.'^ 

"Haul taught — hoist away the jib — starboard your helm, 
quarter-master — jump to the braces — starboard fore braces — 
larboard main braces — starboard cro' jack braces, haul in — ." 
The execution of these orders, almost as fast as given, brought 
the fore-topsail aback against the mast, while the " after" yards 
were full ; and aided by the jib, her head "paid round," and 
looked down the stream. Now, ftie yards were trimmed to 
the wind, and the ship moved gently on her way. 

The wind drew kindly aft. Sail after sail was spread, and 
studding-sails were set, "low and aloft ;" thus, under a cloud 
of canvass, and with a fine breeze, the ship swept away with 
the ease and grace of a sea bird. 

Silence took place of the bustle consequent upon getting 
under way. The sea-officers still remained at their stations, 
while the idlers* were on the poop, admiring the scenes we 
were passing on either hand, or conversing with those few 
friends, who, determined to see the last of us, accompanied us 
down to return in the pilot boat. It is soothing, in after years, 
to call to mind those who thus speed us with still another look 
— another grasp ; — to what hopes, and fears, and regrets, does 
the word farewell give rise ! 

The men were standing about the decks, ready to seize a 
rope when ordered. The pilot stood upon a gun, attentive to 
the song of the leadsman in the chains, as he cried, "by the 
deep nine," and narrowly watching the progress of the ship. 
His words were few, and directed to the quarter master at the 

* Idler is the epithet applied to all officers on board of a man-of-war, who 
do not keep a regular watch ; such are the surgeon, purser, sailing master, &c. 



INTHODTJCTION. 13 

wheel, who answered his orders with precision. "Port," said 
the pilot. "Port, Sir," — replied the quarter master. 

^' Steady," said the pilot. 

" Steady, Sir," repeated the quarter master. 

When we arrived at the Narrows, our prospects of getting 
to sea that day were blasted ; the wind suddenly changed, and 
we were obliged to bring the ship to anchor. 

After spending several days at Staten Island, the wind blew 
fair. Soon the anchor arose from its bed ; the sails were again 
spread, and swelled into beautiful curves, that harmonized with 
the straight lines of our spars and rigging ; we moved over the 
placid surface of the bay — the leadsman's song ceased — our 
bows nodded recognition to the crested wave of the ocean — 
the pilot boarded his little vessel, bearing our last farewell, and 
we stood on our course tbwards where the waters and skies 
seemed to meet. The day was in its splendor, but lighted no- 
thing to us save the expanse of the sea. Night came, and the 
moon looked over the mighty scene, and her light danced over 
the waves. The stars shone brightly and calmly ; the breeze 
blew mildly. Thus, day succeeds day, and the sameness of 
ship's duty is only relieved by occasionally meeting a sail as 
lonely as ourselves. 

There are times, however, when the dark clouds hang upon 
the horizon — the waters darken, and heaving themselves sul- 
lenly, often to a fearful height, burst into foam — the scud flies 
over the heavens — ^^lightning flashes — thunder rolls, and the 
storm howls furiously across the waste ! The ship, then strip- 
ped of her canvass, rises and plunges to the impulse of the 
waves, and the wind moans sadly through the shrouds. Then 
does man, indeed, in his majesty of mind, appear warring with 
the elements, and bidding defiance to their force. The noble 
bark seems to spurn the angry buffetings of the deep, and glides 
triumphantly over the heaving billows. Well tempered enthu- 
siasm swells the bosom of the skilful director of this wonderful 
machine. He scans the heavens and the wild waste ; his voice 
rises above the tempest, and his orders are executed, by those 
whom he guides, as fearlessly as they are given. 

Then follow, the abatement of the winds, the smoothing of 



14 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the sea, the clearing of the sky, and the reappearance of the 
sun. Next comes the calm, with its never failing attendant, 
ennui ; the ship rolls over a still restless sea, the sails flap 
against the mast, every place en board is uncomfortable, and 
every place cheerless — at length, p. gentle breeze, first seen at 
a distance, comes skipping and kissing along the surface, throw- 
ing it into fields of ripple. The sails feel its influence, and 
again we move on our course, with spirits as buoyant as our 
*^sea-girt" home ! 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 



CHAPTER I. 



Entrance to Rio de Janeiro — The Sugar Loaf— Glance round the harbor — 
The Corcovado — Gloria Church — The City — Praya Grande. 

On the last Sunday in August 1831, we descried through a 
hazy atmosphere, the <' Cabo do Frio," while yet thirty miles 
off. Five years before 1 beheld this lump of Brazilian earth 
with as much interest as if it were a mass of topaz or diamonds ; 
then, every moment seemed an hour, and every spot that pre- 
sented itself as we drew near, became of importance. Even 
the sand beach, sweeping towards the capital of this empire, 
fancy assured me, led to something, but that something was 
indefinite, and is so still. The same feeling seemed to pervade 
all those, who looked now on a strange shore, for the first 
time ; — every countenance beamed with joy, and all were plea- 
surably excited. 

Cape Frio, a high, wild, barren insular promontory, stands 
at the extremity of Maranbaya beach, sixty-eight miles to the 
eastward of Rio de Janeiro, having a passage for coasting ves- 
sels between it and the main. The land may be seen from a 
great distance in clear weather, rising high behind the beach, 
which sweeps with a gentle curve to the entrance of the har- 
bor. 

We were favored with a fresh sea breeze. Keeping in sight 
of the beach, we could see distinctly, before the day closed^ 



18 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the Church of Our Lady of Nazareth, built on the shore thirty 
miles from the Cape ; also, " Cabo Negro," and the Maris Isl- 
ands, which are said to be fourteen miles from the "Pao-de- 
Agucar,'' or Sugar Loaf, so called from its form, standing on 
the west side of the harbor. 

The wind died away as the sun set, and we were obliged to 
wait for the morning under easy sail. The morning was cloudy 
and foggy, and we were unable to get into port that day. To- 
wards evening we saw the islands again, and after night fall, 
the light on " Ilha Raza" or Flat Island, or, according to the 
easy translation of sailors. Razor Island. The sun set in a 
heavy bank of clouds, shooting his rays high, and gilding the 
skies in beautifully varied tints, and lighting up our hopes for 
the morrow ; the night, like the preceding, was spent under 
easy sail. 

About eleven o'clock on Tuesday morning the sea-breeze 
set in, much to our relief, for we were weary with "hope de- 
layed." As we drew near, the several small islands, sprinkled 
near the mouth of the harbor, came into sight one after the 
other, as the fog lifted slowly before the gentle breeze. Pre- 
sently we saw the "Pao-de-A^ucar," rising nearly thirteen 
hundred feet* into the air on the left of the harbor's mouth, 
and on the right, the battlements of Santa Cruz, standing at 
the foot of a high mountain. When still nearer, we perceived 
the Brazilian flag of yellow and green ; the holy cross, emble- 
matic of the religion of the country ; the telegraph and watch 
towers, then the masts of the shipping in the harbor. When 

* Captain Beechey, R. N. measured it, both in 1825 and 1828. The first ob- 
servation made its summit to be 1286, and the last, 1299 feet above the level 
of the sea. — Beechey' s Voyage. 

To the westward of the Sugar Loaf, the land is very remarkable ; when ap- 
proaching the harbor on a clear day, it presents the appearance of a huge 
figure of a man lying on his back. The profile of the face presents an immense 
nose and chin, while the " Pao-de-Agucar" represents the toes of this great 
man. Some exaggerating and waggish fancy has given to the whole the fami- 
liar appellation of Lord Hood's nose ; whether that feature of his Lordship me- 
rited the comparison, is not a matter of history ; — though Captain Basil Hall 
states that, "the characteristic prominence of the Hood nose" has been well 
known in the navy "for a glorious half century." 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 19 

passing close under the guns of the fortress, we were hailed in 
a slow, stentorian tone, that seemed to issue from the rocks, 
for no human being was in sight ; allowing an interval between 
each word, the voice cried, "what — ship — is — that? — Where 
— do — you — come — from? — How — many — days — out? These 
questions being answered, it wished us a pleasant passage to 
the city, whose spires and fanes were already in view. We 
continued our course, passed a small fort situated near the en- 
trance of BoTAFOGo, the fort of Villegagnon, point Gl&ria, 
and soon reached our anchorage, in one of the most beautiful 
and picturesque bays in the world. 

We *' came to" about a mile from the city, with our bows 
to the southward and consequently looking out of the harbor. 
Rat Island and " Ilha das Cobras," lay between us and the 
shore. The former is notable, because navigators, on arriving 
here, resort to it for the purpose of testing the correctness of 
their nautical instruments. It is a small, low rock, and not far 
from the latter, which divides the outer from the inner har- 
bor ; the men-of-war lie in the one, and merchantmen occupy 
the other. 

From the Sugar Loaf, which is a conspicuous point, we will 
glance round this beautiful marine basin, and endeavor to con- 
vey some idea of its form. The " Pao-de-Agucar" is more than 
twelve hundred feet high, as mentioned above, and bears a 
striking resemblance to a loaf of sugar, inclining a little to one 
side. Its surface is nearly smooth, of a dark, sombre color, and 
sprinkled here and there with little tufts of stunted bushes. It 
stands on the west side of the harbor, and at the entrance of 
the almost circular bay of Botafogo, which sweeps round towards 
the city as far as San Berndrdo point. Notwithstanding the 
steepness of its sides, (that towards the sea being perpendicular, 
or perhaps overlooking the water for ten or fifteen feet above 
the surface,) it has been twice ascended, and both times from 
the most inaccessible point. Many years ago an Austrian mid- 
shipman, in that reckless spirit of enterprise which is a boon 
given to all sailors by father Neptune, when they wed the 
sea, offered to wager with his messmates that he would ascend 
the Sugar Loaf from the sea side, and display a flag on its sum- 



20 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

mit. The offer was accepted, and the young son of the Ocean, 
properly equipped, started on his expedition. At the base of 
the rock, the water rises and falls alternately three or four feet 
as the waves roll past into the harbor, so that several attempts 
were made, before he succeeded in landing. He then toiled up 
the embrowned side of the rock, hoisting himself by a bush or 
by some inequality of the surface, till he reached the top, where 
he displayed his banner, and to the terror of the inhabitants of 
Rio, lighted a fire; for every one who was not aware of the 
enterprise, thought that the Pao-de-Agucar had suddenly be- 
come a volcano. After remaining all night under the dreadful 
apprehension, as he said, of being eaten by venomous serpents 
that hissed round the fire, or of rolling down the shot tower 
like mountain into the sea, if he should be overcome by sleep, 
he safely descended, and obtained the wager. In spite of its 
difficulties, the same feat was afterwards achieved by an Ame- 
rican midshipman, who left "the stripes and stars" waving 
over the land while the bunting endured, for no Brazilian 
would venture to haul it down. The repetition of the enter- 
prise is now forbidden by an imperial decree. 

Close in the rear, the mountains are broken by deep ravines 
and splintered into peaks, one of which, called the Corcovado, 
out tops and overhangs the rest. Upon its very summit, like 
an eyry perched among the clouds, is an observatory and a 
watch tower which may be seen at a great distance, when not 
hidden in the vapors that frequently shroud it.* 

Between San Bernardo and G16ria points extends a long 
beach, which, from having been the resort, in times past, of 
the gorgeously plumed flamingo, is now called " Praya do Fla- 
mingo." On G16ria point is placed, very conspicuously, a small 
white church, dedicated to the invocation of "Nossa Senhora 
de Gl&ria." The edifice is octahedral, and has a tall slender 
spire at one side. The hill on which it stands is one of the 
most picturesque spots about Rio. The terrace surrounding 
the church, which is about one hundred feet above the level of 

• According to the measurement of Captain Beechey, R. N. made after the 
formula of Mr. Daniel, the base of the flag staff is by one observation 2308 
feet, and by a second 2306 feet above the level of the sea. 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 21 

the sea, forms a delightful promenade in " twilight gray," well 
suited for the dhioument of love. In the hall or entrance of 
the building are hung many mementos of the miracles wrought 
by our Lady of G-lory, who, it would appear, was an adept in 
the healing art. Casts in wax, many of them obscene in their 
configuration, from that of the simplest wound to the most 
loathsome ulcer, are collected here as testimonials of relief af- 
forded at her hands and through her invocation, to the afflicted 
of both sexes. 

From this point sweeps a small cove, lined by a neat row of 
white one story buildings that look out upon the bay, to point 
St. lago, upon which stands a fortress of the same name. The 
next cove is short, and terminates at "Cobras." Here the 
city is seen over a forest of the masts of small craft, reposing 
under the shelter of the mountains. The " Praga de San Jos^' 
the Palace, and the imperial Chapels are conspicuous. The 
whiteness of the buildings brings the whole, like a picture, in 
strong relief against the dark mountain sides in the back ground. 
Bells are ringing different peals at the same time, guns are 
firing, and at almost every hour of every day, hundreds of 
rockets are sent whizzing through the air in honor of some 
saintly festival. ' From the anchorage, the city appears to be a 
cleanly one, but " 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the 
view ;" for, 

" whoso entereth in this town, 
That, sheening far, celestial seems to be, 
Disconsolate will wander up and down, 
'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee ; 
For hut and palace show like filthily : 
The dingy denizens are reared in dirt ; 
Ne personage of high or mean degree 
Doth care for cleanness of surtout or shirt. 
Though shent with Egypt's plague, unkempt, unwash'd, unhurt !" 

To the northward, the mountains rise high in slender, splin- 
tered peaks, which, from a fancied resemblance to the tubes of 
an organ, are called the Organ Mountains. In the same direc- 
tion are seen white chSteaus perched on the hills and rocks, so 
high as to be sometimes robed in clouds. The city itself is 



22 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

overlooked by two or three convents, as solemn in their appear- 
ance as the monks of their cloisters. 

On the eastern side, and nearly opposite to Rio, is a neat, 
quiet village called Praya Grande, which, during the season of 
amusement, is a place of general resort. It contains several 
potteries, and is famed for the quantity of fine sweetmeats, 
made and exported. At the southern extremity of Praya is a 
huge mass of rocks, which, apparently, have been thrown from 
the main land by some natural convulsion ; upon its very sum- 
mit (a most romantic situation truly) stands a church or a 
dwelling, accessible from the main by a short wooden bridge. 
From this point the beach of the placid bay of Inrufuba sweeps, 
almost like a circle, to fort Santa Cruz. Along the shore is a 
straggling village, interspersed with gardens, and surrounded 
by luxuriant plantations of the cofiee tree. 

We have now glanced round the bay and arrived at Santa 
Cruz, between which and the Sugar Loaf, the waters roll into 
this magnificent harbor; — an amphitheatre whose bounds are 
hills rising one behind the other, valleys and mountains that 
are smiled on throughout the year both by Flora and Pomona, 
yielding flowers and fruits, grateful in their fragrance, and lus- 
cious to the most refined and delicate taste. Over this sheet of 
water, passage boats, under a press of sail, are stretching in 
every direction, bearing parties from shore to shore. The 
naked negro toils at his oar — the black soldier in gay costume 
lolls in his curtained barge, wreathed in the smoke of his cigar 
— the tatooed slave paddles his rude canoe — the barges of the 
men-of-war, with feathering oars, are shooting from point to 
point — the men-of-war sit majestically, and their flags and pen- 
nants flutter proudly on the breeze — the forts and castles frown 
sullenly — the palace smiles — the church and convent look 
grave — the hills are lovely — the mountains grand — the grace- 
ful palm tree nods. 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 23 



CHAPTER II. 

Walk in the streets of Rio — ^Imperial Chapels — Rua Direita — Slaves — Rua 
d'Ouvidor — Marimba — Abdication of Dom Pedro — Regency of Pedro II. 

Many years ago, I met in Brazil, an Austrian gentleman, 
who, having spent several years in England, spoke English 
remarkably well. Certain circumstances of a private nature, 
in which the heart was deeply interested, which he narrated, 
ripened an acquaintanceship of a few weeks into intimacy and 
friendship. His name was Brunner. When I last saw him, 
in 1826, he held a colonel's commission in the imperial army 
of Brazil. 

The first inquiries that suggested themselves on landing at 
the palace stairs in September 1831, were whether Brunner 
was still in the city, and whether he was still lamenting his 
disappointment; — his ^'ladye love" had played him false! I 
made my way among the boatmen and venders of fruit always 
standing on the slip, and looked at the sentinel and his box. 
Whether any thing had been changed, or whether he had been 
relieved since my last visit, 1 doubt. The same high cloth cap 
covered his woolly head, and the same musket was trailed over 
his shoulder — the same soiled belt and cartouche box hung at 
his side, and as little energy was displayed in his whole ap- 
pearance as can possibly be imagined. A paper cigar burned 
quietly between his lips, which he seemed too lazy to puff to 
prevent it from going out. While observing this sauntering 
soldier, I was suddenly seized by the hand and welcomed to 
Brazil. It was Brunner. He had recognised me across the 
palace square, and almost breathless came running to greet me. 

** When did you arrive — how long do you stay — how have 
you been ?" 

Unexpected meetings with friends are always agreeable, 
even at home, and when one sees a man suddenly stand before 
him in a strange land, whom he is conjecturing may be dead. 



24 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

or what is the same thing, gone away, the pleasure is enhanced 
— imagination cannot conjure up any thing half so pleasant. 

As I answered the questions, my arm resting on Brunner's, 
we walked towards the imperial chapel, which fronts the quay. 
1 observed that my friend was attired d, le citoyen, and at once 
inferred that a change had taken place in his pursuits. 

"You have doffed your regimentals?" 

<'0h yes ! — true," he replied, "I followed your advice in 
that ; you told me, you may remember, 

" The charm of life that's lost in love, 
Is never found in fame !" 

and I considered that, with some other things you said, very 
seriously, and in consequence, changed the muster roll into a 
leger." 

"And got married in consequence of the change?" 

"If you discovered that by my countenance, you deserve 
credit as a physiognomist. I have indeed found 'a Leah my 
recompense to be' — but more of that anon." 

" I must congratulate you at any rate — for a man of the 
world would never marry in Brazil without making himself 
wealthy, because happiness is seldom the companion of a fo- 
reign wife and poverty." 

"Thank you — thank you — I am much better — I mean, 1 
am much more useful in the world noiv than I was as a sol- 
dier ; but you shall have an opportunity of judging for yourself. 
Do you observe any change in the appearance of the "Praga 
de San Jos^" or " Largo do Pago ?" 

The fountain seems to be just as much frequented, and I do 
not perceive that the chattering of the negroes is less ; nor have 
they lost any skill in balancing their water-kegs. If we may 
judge from the heavy burdens they carry upon it, negroes care 
less for the head than we do. How is it, that pressure does 
not spread the arch of the skull and make it assume an unna- 
tural shape, as in the case of Indians of certain tribes ! Some 
of the slaves here carry almost constantly, the weight of fifteen 
or sixteen gallons of water on the head nearly all day long, 
moving so steadily under it, that keg and man appear to be 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 25 

parts of the same machine. A negro instinctively puts every 
thing on his head be it light or heavy, yet I am not aware of 
any race that is remarkably flat headed. 

" There is not so much military show about the palace now 
as during the reign of Pedro I. We were wont to see each 
of those staffs along the palace wall, supporting a musket ; and 
troops parading at this hour, and a fine band playing." 

" That is easily accounted for — 

• Grim visaged war has smoothed his wrinkled front.* 

The army has been but lately disbanded, and only men enough 
kept to garrison the forts." 

We were now in front of the imperial chapels which open 
on the square called the place of St. Joseph. The emperor's 
chapel is amongst the richest and most splendid in Rio ; it is 
not large, but the whole interior is arranged with a due regard 
to taste. Every person uncovers while he passes the open 
door, or bows, and signs himself with the cross as he enters. 
Several females were kneeling in different parts of the open 
space, on carpets or mats brought by their slaves, while the 
men were content to protect their knees from the dusty pave- 
ment by spreading out a pocket handkerchief On either side 
of the church are small altars dedicated to saints whose por- 
traits or statues, carved in wood or cast in wax as large as life, 
stand in niches above, decorated with a profusion of tinsel. A 
low, wooden balustrade runs parallel with the wall on each 
side of the church, forming narrow aisles in front of the minor 
shrines, and separating them from the centre or nave, at the 
farthest end of which stands the principal altar, rendered mag- 
nificent at the expense of a great deal of wealth and labor. The 
ceiling is arched, and ornamented with stucco and twisted 
mouldings richly gilt. 

In all Catholic countries, the churches are open from dawn 
till sunset, and during that interval, persons may be always 
found at their devotions. Sunrise, however, is the most fash- 
ionable hour. Here, the wealthy go in their palanquins, 
dressed in black silk, with a manto of the same material, or ai 
lace veil, worn tastefully over the head and shoulders. 
4 



26 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

*'This is certainly a splendid temple," said I, "but it is 
easy to perceive through all the glitter that it is only an imi- 
tation of reality — the golden candlesticks are but gilded wood, 
and the tall wax candles are only half what they seem. Why 
endeavor to practice a deception in a church ? this most igno- 
rant devotee that kneels must know that th« apparently tall 
candles are tin tubes, with wax ends." 

" Had you been in Italy, you would not admire this church 
so much ; it is not so rich now as it formerly was. The ad- 
joining temple is the chapel of the empress, but I do not think 
it superior in beauty or decoration to that we have just left." 

We walked along the "Rua Direita," which may be con- 
sidered the "Broadway" of Rio, and stopped before the door 
of the "Hotel du Nord," which, like a spendthrift, had seen 
its best days in its youth. Degeneration, even of a tavern, falls 
unpleasantly upon the sight; this one, from being the best 
"public," has dwindled, in five years, to a mean tippling shop. 
From this spot, we looked along the street, and a gayer or 
more various scene cannot easily be imagined. Men of busi- 
ness were hurrying along the side walks, jostling the leisurely 
moving free black, or the shop keeper smoking at his own 
door ; the native military officers were deliberately striding 
about with an important, arrogant air, the calexas (or calegas) 
and seges were rattling along by dint of lashing and spurring 
the mules — the high boots with heavy soles and heels, armed 
with plated spurs, the glazed leather hat and high cockade, 
distinguish the calegero from every other kind of servant in 
the city — gangs of slaves, united by iron collars and chains 
ten or twelve feet in length, were trotting along, with bags of 
cofiee or sugar on their heads, endeavouring to drown the sad 
clanking of their irons, in the notes of a song and chorus, 
which, in happier times, they may have sung beneath their 
native shades. Each one of these gangs was followed by a 
black soldier, carrying an unsheathed bayonet in one hand and 
a heavy whip in the other. Next, we saw approaching, a gay 
palanquin, borne by two slaves at a short trot. Presently it 
rested in front of a store, and a sallow female hand, covered 
with jewels, pushed aside the velvet curtains, and the vender 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 27 

®f tapes and laces ran from his counter and bowed obsequi- 
ously. Immediately, there was an Italage of stuffs of various 
kinds, and the marchand was eulogizing his goods and bar- 
gain, bowing the whole time. The lady purchased or rejected 
something — I saw no purse ; the curtain again hid the hand 
and the jewels ; — the slaves trotted on with their mistress. 
Whiz, flew a rocket, and snap, crack, crack, exploded a bunch 
of squibs from amidst a crowd of half naked negro boys, who 
moved along with an unmeaning shout. Then came a fat sal- 
low looking priest, under a broad brimmed hat, rolled up at 
the sides, with a long silken cord terminated in a tassel hang- 
ing down his back. He wore a long silk robe or gown, and a 
pair of heavy shoes with large buckles. Close after him moved, 
in short struts, a precocious Brazilian dandy, of Liliputian 
stature, perhaps fourteen years old, and attired like a man of 
twenty-five ; wearing a stick in one hand, and carrying a satchel 
in the other; he stepped along, in imminent danger of disap- 
pearing beneath his cocked hat that towered over his head like 
an extinguisher, though worn for distinction. Then followed 
a dozen slaves or water carriers, all naked. The next figure, 
was that of a portly sedate looking gentleman whose moon 
formed countenance stood forth to assert his claims to the cha- 
racter of a hon vivant of imperturbable equanimity. He wore 
a cocked hat with ostrich feather trimming, a broad tailed coat, 
vest with capacious pockets, neat unmentionables, all of black, 
buckled at the knee over a pair of red silk ribbed hose, and a 
pair of square toed shoes with huge paste buckles. One of his 
hands, with ruffle round the wrist, holding a glove, he carried 
behind him, while the other-r— gloved- — swung a gold mounted 
stick from the Moluccas, whichTie struck on the pavement at 
almost every step his gently stooped figure advanced. This 
was a congressman — an M. P. 

** This gay scene indicates a business like disposition in the 
people ; but the clank of those chains, clouds the pleasing re- 
flections otherwise excited. The slaves cannot be treated here 
with humanity?" 

<*My dear Sir," replied Brunner, "you are mistaken. 
Slaves in this country are treated with the greatest humanity 



28 THKEE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and kindness, and in many cases are even too much indulged. 
Those negroes who have just passed us are government slaves, 
who have become public property through the agency of their 
own crimes. Every one of them has committed either assault, 
robbery, or murder. Taking away life is a punishment hardly 
known in Brazil. When a negro is convicted of any outrage, 
or infraction of the law, he is usually sentenced to labor in 
chains for a limited period, at the expiration of which he is re- 
turned to his master." 

" Does the master receive no compensation for the services 
of the slave in the mean time ?" 

" No. They say the loss is a just punishment for not having 
taught the slave better." 

"Are these convicts hired to individuals by the govern- 
ment, or is there any public work on which they are em- 
ployed ?" 

"The custom house employs many of them, many are em- 
ployed as scavengers, and some in levelling hills and blasting 
rocks in the suburbs." 

We walked slowly on, and turned up the " Rua d'Ouvidor," 
which is lined with fancy stores and shops of the French "two- 
distes." Next to the "Rua Direita," it is perhaps the busiest 
and most fashionable. It leads to the theatre and opera house. 
The emperor was wont to dash through it, occasionally driving, 
with his own imperial hands, four grays of exquisite beauty, 
headed by his trumpeter, and followed by a cavalry guard ; — 
then off flew every hat, and every body stood aside to let the 
imperial coachman pass. 

My attention was attracted by a crowd of negroes in the 
street, in the midst of which one was dancing to the sound of 
a rude instrument, accompanied by the voice. " What is this ?" 
I asked my companion. 

" Nothing more than a few idle negroes of the neighborhood, 
assembled together to dance the ' guachambo,' a sort of fandan- 
go, to the sound of the 'marimba,' which claims Africa as the 
country of its invention." It is generally made of some light 
species of wood, and may be compared to the toe part of a 
shoe. On the flat side, or sole part, are secured nearly in their 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 29 

centres, eight pieces of steel wire about six inches long ; their 
ends curve upwards, and being of different lengths, form an 
octave. The longer ends of these keys play free, and when 
touched, vibrate a sleepy sort of note, which can hardly be 
called disagreeable. The instrument is clasped between the 
hands, hanging down in front, and is played upon by the 
thumbs. There is another form of the " marimba,^' in which 
the keys are placed on a thin piece of board ; this is secured to 
a thinly scraped cocoanut shell, and is the better kind, sound- 
ing much clearer, and more musical. The servants, (porters) 
who are always seated at the doors of private dwellings — 
which by the by always have the family coach standing at the 
foot of the stairs, on the lower floor, fitted for the purpose, by 
way of demonstrating the quality of the master — pass hours 
together, nodding over their own music, produced with about 
the same effort required to twirl the thumbs ; — playing on the 
*' marimba" is just one degree beyond '^ dolcefar niinte.^' 

When we came up, the dancing had ceased, and the blacks 
were making way for us to pass. I called the musician, that I 
might examine his instrument. He grinned, and appeared gra- 
tified by the notice taken of him. He was young and full of 
health, but with a most stupid expression of countenance, pro- 
duced by a chain of fleshy nodules extending from the point of 
his nose in a line over his forehead ; when his attention was 
not otherwise engaged, his eyes were always directed towards 
this distinguishing mark. At our request, he played a lively 
air, and accompanied himself with a short see-saw motion of 
the body. So soon as he commenced, all the negroes drew 
nearer and nearer, till we were completely encircled by grin- 
ning spectators. I inquired into the origin of the bumps, and 
Brunner informed me that it is a species of tatooing, done in 
infancy by their parents, designed as the distinguishing mark 
of the tribe. He pointed out in the crowd around us, one whose 
face was scratched or gashed on one cheek ; one marked in the 
same way on both cheeks ; some on their temples ; some on 
their breasts and backs ; and there was one who had each of 
his teeth cut off diagonally, so as to make them serrated or 



30 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

saw-like. Common misery has not caused the negroes to for- 
get the feuds of their tribes, for they have brought mutual and 
perhaps hereditary hatred with them, and it is supposed that 
the safety of the whites, whose numbers are very small, de- 
pends upon this circumstance. Though this may be partially 
true, I suspect that apathy, which is a characteristic of the 
African races, is the reason why they do not rise up en masse 
and destroy their masters. 

Next we looked into an hotel kept by an Englishman ; it is 
the best — the worst — the only one of the kind in the place ; it 
is entirely supported by foreigners — natives rarely visit pub- 
lic inns. After looking round for a moment, and noticing a 
sign over the door, announcing that *' bains chauds^' might be 
procured, we returned to the "Rua d'Ourives," which is en- 
tirely occupied by silver-smiths, jewellers, and lapidaries, and 
following its course for a quarter of a mile, turned to the right, 
and in a few minutes entered the counting house of my friend. 

We found several gentlemen conversing about the change 
that had then just taken place in the political state of Brazil. 
When the usual salutation was over, the subject was resumed. 

" What do you say were the circumstances," asked a gen- 
tleman of the party, addressing himself to Brunner, ''that led 
to the abdication ?" 

'< There were perhaps several," replied Brunner, "that may 
be considered as conducing to that end. A jealousy has long ex- 
isted between the native Brazilians and the Portuguese, which 
was originally caused and kept up b}' Dom Pedro. The refu- 
gees, who fled from the proscription and tyrannical wrath of 
Dom Miguel, always found here, not only protection and an 
asylum, but many have been received into places of power and 
emolument under the government, to the exclusion of the Bra- 
zilians, who were not slow to perceive and feel, that the em- 
peror placed more confidence in them than in his own subjects. 
He was constantly surrounded by them, and seemed to be much 
influenced by their advice in almost every thing. Envious of 
the distinction and honors heaped upon these foreigners, as the 
inhabitants of Portugal were termed, the natives conceived 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 31 

themselves injured, and gave a voice to their grievances. Mur- 
murs grew into complaints, and representations were made 
which passed unnoticed, until the emperor was told, in pretty- 
plain terms, that he must change his ministry. Even this step 
was treated with contempt, and when Dom Pedro thought 
seriously of regaining the confidence of the people, which he 
had lost, it was too late. The ministry was changed and re- 
changed successively, to please one or another of the many 
political parties which, as a consequence to the state of things, 
sprung forth like so many heads from that political hydra — 
public discontent. These parties were composed of people who 
had their views in elevating certain persons to a place near the 
throne. The public ear was occupied by vague and contradic- 
tory rumors and reports ; and the minds of the people became 
filled with uncertainty and alarm. Among other groundless 
and ridiculous reports, was one that there was a design against 
the constitution, and the liberties of the people — that this con- 
spiracy was the plotting of the Portuguese ; and, however pre- 
posterous and unreasonable it may appear, it was said that Dom 
Pedro was at the head of it ! 

" The emperor, about this time, had been on a visit of in- 
spection to a neighboring province, and under the pretext of 
receiving him, on the day of his return, the refugees, with 
many Portuguese who have been long residing here, paraded 
the streets with arms, in squads of forty or fifty, uttering cries 
which were highly irritating to the feelings of the natives, and 
even looked upon by them as seditious. The Brazilians were 
exasperated, and attempted to put down the obnoxious party 
by force, and in consequence several skirmishes took place in. 
the streets, and several lives were lost on both sides. This 
happened on the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth of March. 
The shops were shut up ; foreigners thought of taking refuge, 
with their efiects, on board of the men-of-war of their respec- 
tive nations ; and all business was suspended for several days. 

" With a view of restoring peace, or of obtaining at least a 
cessation of hostilities amongst all parties, and of soothing and 
tranquillizing the public mind, the emperor at once appointed 



32 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

a new ministry, composed entirely of Brazilians whose liberal 
sentiments were universally acknowledged. This step was 
popular, and public order was again restored, but was short 
lived. The ministry was again changed for men who were ex- 
tremely obnoxious to the Brazilian party. The greatest anx- 
iety was now manifested by all classes of citizens. Expressions 
of their indignation, warmly and publicly spoken, followed, 
and great numbers, as if by common consent, assembled in the 
< Campo Santa Ana,^ since called the ^ Praga d^Jicclama- 
gdo.^ A deputation was sent from them to the emperor, urging 
him, if he wished to preserve order and avoid civil war and 
bloodshed, to dismiss the Portuguese ministry, and reinstate 
that which he had last deposed. In spite of the entreaties of 
General Lima, the military commandant of the province, who 
was in high favor with the people, and of the tears of the em- 
press, he refused the request of the deputation, and obstinately 
adhered to his resolution. The emperor's reply, endorsed by 
the ministry, and the order for the mob to disperse, was 
scarcely read, before it was torn to pieces and trampled under 
foot ! The troops soon began to take part with the people, 
who were now armed and prepared for the worst. An attack 
was apparently meditated somewhere, and before ten o'clock 
that night even the body guard at the palace had gone over 
and joined the insurgents. The emperor found that he had been 
deceived by his courtiers, who had relied on the support of the 
army, and as the only possible means remaining of preventing 
bloodshed, and restoring tranquillity, he resolved on abdica- 
tion. In this dilemma he sought the aid of counsel from the 
British and French legations, and received the Charges late 
that same night at the palace. Exercising the power given 
him by the constitution, he abdicated in favor of his son Dom 
Pedro de Alcantara, under the title of Pedro II ! This 
last act was received, early on the morning of the seventh of 
April, with joyful acclamations, and the same day, before eight 
o'clock, having hastily collected what money and valuables he 
could, the ex-emperor, with the empress and the young queen 
of Portugal, embarked privately on board of H. B. M. line-of- 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. ^8 

battle Ship Warspite, leaving the young emperor and princesses, 
at the palace of San Christovao !* 

"The national assembly had been ordered by the emperor 
to convene, and though many members had not yet arrived in 
town, they met, and according to the constitution, appointed 
a regency, to administer the government and laws during the 
minority. On the 9th of April, the young emperor, Dom Pe- 
dro II., made his public entry into the city, amidst the shouts 
and 'vivas' of the populace. A due quantity of gunpowder and 
rockets, as is usual on all great occasions, were expended, to 
manifest the public loyalty to the new sovereign. 

*' Tranquillity was again restored. The emperor in a few 
days set sail for England, on board of H. B. M. Frigate Vo- 
lage, and the young queen of Portugal on board of the French 
Corvette La Seine." 

"Then I presume every thing is now quiet?" 

"Not perfectly so — there is a party in favor of a republic, 
but it will die. Every body who knows any thing of the ex- 
tent and resources of Brazil, must decide against it. Two mu- 
lattoes, who were educated in France by the emperor, are said 
to be the leaders of the republican party." 

"Did property sustain any injury from the rioters or insur- 
gents during the disturbance ?" 

"Not at all. The Brazilians are a pacijique people, and 
would rader enjoy der right by courtesy dan by force," re- 
marked an old gentleman, who until this moment had been 



• The emperor, in his real character of nonchalance, was seen, before he left 
the harbor, eagerly employed catching fish ! 

"Dom Pedro was born at Lisbon, on the 12th of October, 1798; he was the 
second son of Dom John VI. and of Carlota Joaquina, daughter of Charles IV. 
of Spain ; but by the premature death of his elder brother, Antonio, he be- 
came heir-presumptive to the crown. He was of a weakly temperament when 
a child, but showed early some of that vivacity of character which has since 
distinguished him. He was educated by the Padre Antonio d'Arrabida, an in- 
telligent ecclesiastic, who early impressed him with sentiments of religion, for 
which he is still distinguished; but his education was in nothing else remarka- 
ble, except that, in common with his sisters, he acquired some knowledge of 
Latin, which he has not yet forgotten." — Walsh. Notices of Brazil. Vol.1. 
London, 1830. 

5 



34 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

silent. " Pah! Vat can dene miserable devil do — when dey 
have de arms dey put de ball into de gun first, and den depou- 
dre — vat use is dat? eh!" He accompanied the concluding 
question with a shrug of the shoulders, and an elevation of his 
brows, that threw his forehead into transverse wrinkles ; and 
take him altogether, the speaker looked like a mammoth note 
of interrogation. 

" Then the conflicts were not very bloody, I presume ?" 

"Bloody !" exclaimed the old man, changing his posture 
and features till he resembled in some degree an interjection, 
"I tell you, Sare^ one hundred good men vill take de town 
any time. Dey allow fifty black rascal to run about de street 
widout opposition, and cut de troat of de women, vile de sodger 
run in de house and lock de door ! Bloody — vy ! Save, dey 

are d d coward, and as to de property, dey are afraid to 

steal it !" As he concluded, he made his exit by a back door. 

*' The regency, I believe, is a trinity, or triumvirate, or tri- 
umviracy ?" 

*' Yes ! It is composed of three members of the general as- 
sembly, elected by that body, the eldest of the three being the 
president. All decrees and laws are issued by the regency, in 
the name of the emperor. The following are the regents and 
present ministry. 

Regency. 

Francisco de Lima e Silva, ) 

Jose da Costa Carvalho, > Regents. 

Joao Braulio Muniz, ) 

Jose Bonifacio d'Andrada — Tutor to the Emperor. 

Ministers. 

Home Department^ Jose Linho Coutinho. 
Foreign Jlffairs, Francisco Carneivo de Campos. 
Justice, Diogo Antonio Feijo. 

War, Jose Manuel de Moraes. 

Navy, Jos6 Manuel de Almeida. 

Treasury, Antonio Homen do Amaral. 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 35 

'^ Andrada, one of the most popular, as well as learned men 
in the country, was named by the emperor ; which is an impe- 
rial prerogative, granted by the constitution, on the vacation 
of the throne, either by death or abdication."* 

At this moment the old gentleman returned. He was about 
five feet high, broad across the shoulders, and rather corpulent. 
His head was small, covered with a short stubborn growth of 
black and gray hair — his forehead rather low, with bushy eye- 
brows — small twinkling black eyes, well set into his head — 
nose somewhat pug — and a large mouth filled with fine teeth. 
A constant smile played over the old man's weather-beaten 
countenance. Though near sixty years old, he displayed great 
animation of manner — it might almost be called fidgetty — and 
you at once conceded that he was a fine little old fellow. He 
wore a short gray frock coat, with bjack velvet collar and trim- 
mings — black vest — and blue pantaloons, over laced boots. 
When he listened, he thrust his hands into his pockets, and 
alternately raised and let himself down from his tiptoes, throw- 
ing his head to one side, and seemed ready to laugh in your 
face. His speech was generally broken, and he snapped his 
fingers, threw up his eyebrows, and sometimes his shoulders 
were raised so slowly and significantly, that you might very 
reasonably entertain fears that his head would disappear be- 
tween them, like a turtle's into its shell ; and this was all by 
the way of punctuation. 

Brunner presented me to this gentleman as Dom Bento, his 
father-in-law. He drew me by the hand, and turning his head, 
said "come gentlemen, de soup is ready." He led me into a 
dining room, and continued, " here we take our lunch, or soup, it 
being too far from our dwelling to return to the counting-house 
after dinner, and too long to fast from eight in the morning till 
sunset," All the merchants, at least the foreign ones, adopt 
this plan. About a dozen persons sat down, besides several 
clerks. The repast consisted of soup and bouillie, with yams, 
&c. and wine and fz'uit. 



• In December 1833, he became somewhat unpopular, and one party was 
anxious that he should resign, but he positively refused. 



36 THKEE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER III. 

Museum — Aqueduct — Banana tree — Farinha — Policemen — Slave of a natural- 
ist — Casa da Agua. 

The Museum is open daily to the public, from twelve until 
two o'clock, and, as it should be every where with institutions 
of the kind, the admission is free to every body. Brunner and 
I visited it, ho\yever, early in the morning, by special favor. 
The utility of a national museum, where access may be had at 
all proper times, free of expense, is incalculable ; and particu- 
larly to a country, which depends, like ours, upon the general 
information of its inhabitants for the existence of its govern- 
ment. Our optics collect much more rapidly, and preserve 
more faithfully, information or knowledge, than any of our 
senses, and what is thus once acquired is seldom forgotten. A 
museum established under proper regulations, would create a 
taste for natural science, and enable talent, in the most indigent 
circumstances, to gain knowledge which could hardly fail to 
make the possessor a better man, and a more useful member of 
society. 

This collection occupies several rooms, communicating with 
each other, in the second story of a building at the corner of 
the Praga d'Acclamagao. The cabinet of minerals is certainly 
a very good one ; probably equal to any one on this continent 
in the metallic specimens and precious stones. The birds are 
badly prepared, most of them being without eyes, and many 
are lying on their sides. The curators are at present (1S31,) 
arranging them according to the classification by Cuvier. The 
native Indian curiosities are numerous ; some of the war dress- 
es, which are composed of feathers of many brilliant colors, 
are really beautiful. Besides these, which are of chief interest, 
being of this country, there are many foreign curiosities and 
specimens of natural history. In one of the apartments there 
are several very good pictures, and two or three Sarcophagi. 



NOTICES OS" BRAZIL. 37 

During our visit, every attention was extended to us, and I left, 
deeply impressed with the kindness and urbanity of the cura- 
tors. 

We passed along one side of the " Campo Santa Ana," now 
called the " Acclamagao," towards the Aqueduct. After turn- 
ing two or three streets, which are not so much frequented as 
either the Rua d'Ouvidor, or Rua Direita, we came beneath 
that part of this great work which is carried over a valley two 
hundred yards wide, supported on two rows of arches, one 
resting upon the other, at a height of eighty or ninety feet. In 
the streets through which we had just walked, I observed that 
a favorite pastime with a large part of the female community, 
is to loll out of the window, supporting the trellis shutter, which 
opens upwards, against the head. Thus every thing falls under 
their notice, while they are ({mte perdues, except to persons on 
the same side of the street. This habit is not confined to fe- 
males alone. Men, almost en cuerpo, are often seen idling in 
this way for hours together. In this climate, trellis shutters 
supply the place of blinds and sash. 

We turned to the right, and ascending the hill towards the 
Corcovado, passed a number of negresses, washing and spread- 
ing out their clothes upon the grass to bleach. On the summit 
of this hill, which is at least two hundred feet high, stands the 
convent of Santa Teressa. The windows are barred, and trel- 
lised, and sashed so securely as almost to exclude the air and 
even the light of day. Near this spot the Aqueduct makes an 
angle in which there is built a hut. 

^'The negroes who live in this cottage," said Brunner, 
<' spend time in drowzy laziness. All their wants being sup- 
plied by their garden, they seldom descend to the city." 

"But they must labor at certain seasons to make that pro- 
duce?" 

"Not so. The soil is so fertile, that, with little more exer- 
tion or attention than is required to cast the seed upon it, a 
plentiful crop is produced !" 

"But this little spot will not — cannot yield them their en- 
tire sustenance ; it may provide fruit and vegetables, but they 
also require bread and animal food ?" 



3S THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

<'They seldom see bread or meat, unless it be in the form 
of 'farinha' or tapioca, and this a little labor supplies; if they 
do not get it, for those who have so few wants, the banana 
forms a substitute." The banana requiring neither care nor toil 
in cultivation, becomes as useful as wheat itself.* A few 
months are sufficient to produce the fruit from the sucker (by 
which it is propagated), and all the attention necessary, is to 
soften the soil about its roots, and every year or two, cut off 
those stocks which have been productive. When green, the fruit 
will yield a species of flour equal to that of rice; when ripe, 
it is delicious to the palate, and highly nutritious. Eight or 
ten large bananas are sufficient food for a man during a whole 
day. This plant not only affords bread and fruit, but also a 
very fine sugar may be extracted from the latter. It enables 
man to live almost without labor, and its ample leaves shade 
him from a tropical sun. 

It is really a beautiful plant. It grows about twelve feet 
high ; its branches or leaves are a foot broad, and from six to 
eight feet long; they unite at the base, and spread asunder at 
the top. When the leaf first appears, it is rolled, and rises from 
amidst those which are already expanded ; and when mature, 
unfolds itself into a spathe, and droops with the rest. The 
fruit is produced in a large conical or pear-shaped mass at the 
end of the stalk, which bends towards the earth by its weight. 
This mass consists of loricating leaves, which enclose the young 
fruit. As it ripens, the leaves curl up and drop off, disclosing 
a circle of bananas, attached by their bases to the stalk ; the 
second and third circle appear, but smaller than the first, be- 
cause the nutritive juices are less, and at last the stalk is termi- 
nated with a plummet-shaped end and abortive blossoms. At 
first the color of the fruit is green ; but as it ripens, turns yel- 
low — a beautiful king's yellow — which contrasts finely with 
the clear maize green of the leaves. 

" In my walks through the city, I have seen a great deal of 
the ' farinha' you speak of, and I am told, it forms a chief arti- 
cle of diet with the slave population." 

• See Humboldt's New Spain. Dennis. Histoire du Br^sil. 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 39 

*' It is not only extensively used by the slaves and lower 
classes of whites in Rio, but forms a standing dish on the tables 
of the rich, made into various deserts. This Jatropha Mani- 
hot is the great substitute for all bread stuffs. It is prepared 
without trouble, and will keep for any length of time without 
suffering from the attacks of insects." 

We followed the Aqueduct in its windings and ascents for 
two miles, and passed by a hut of reeds and mud, built on the 
very verge of the precipice. Before the door, which faced the 
Aqueduct, were extended on the ground, two men, resting their 
heads on their hands, with the elbow on the earth. They 
were listless, drowsy, lazy. Beside them were two or three 
hounds, their long Spanish or Portuguese fowling pieces and 
knives. A third man was leaning against the hut, sustaining 
a pipe with his left hand, while his right was applied across 
his breast to support his left elbow. His eyes were fixed upon 
the ground. A little beyond the hut were two slaves, chained 
together by the ankles, sweeping the path ; they were entirely 
naked, with the exception of the loins, which were girded with 
a piece of blue cotton stuff. Their masters wore large trowsers 
of no definite color, with shirts which had once been white, 
but from negligent ablution, or no ablution, now appeared of 
a smoky yellow. They had neither caps nor shoes ; one of the 
recumbents, however, held his toes in a pair of slippers. 

When we came up, the dogs commenced growling and mut- 
tering, and rolling their eyes upon us, but without raising their 
long noses from the ground. The man lying nearest the path, 
laid his hand upon the collar of one of them, and they all be- 
came quiet. When we were near enough to have trodden on 
the fellow, he slowly drew up his legs, and made an effort to 
fish with his toe one of the slippers, which was dropped in the 
movement; but he failed, and assuming a look of resignation, 
permitted it to remain at the risk of being walked over. The 
one leaning against the house raised his eyes, and scowling 
upon us from under a profusion of black, uncombed hair, mut- 
tered a sort of salutation, but without moving a m^uscle — the 
very smoke escaped from his mouth without receiving an im- 
pulse. 



40 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

'* You would never guess," said Brunner, "that these are 
the police or watchmen, stationed here to prevent robberies 
from being committed by runaway slaves, who hide themselves 
in the mountain thickets, and elude every effort made to appre- 
hend them." 

Just before arriving at the hut above mentioned, there is a 
break in the Aqueduct, and the path changes from the right 
to the left side of the work. From this spot we enjoyed a most 
enchanting bird's eye view. To the northward and westward 
runs a valley, sprinkled with gardens and hamlets ; beyond the 
vale, rise the palace of San Christovao, and the chateau of the 
Marchioness of Santos ; a lake spreads its peaceful waters to 
the scented air ; the bay is filled with shipping, and dotted with 
green islands ; and the town of Praya Grande, in miniature 
from distance, is seen on the opposite shore. On the other 
hand, far below, is a deep glen, where white cottages contrast 
with the deep green of the coffee tree and the gold of the 
orange ; the Sugar Loaf stood high, and before us the Corcova- 
do, still higher and wilder, almost overhung our path. 

*' Lakes, forests, cities, plains extending wide, 

The pomp of kings, the shepherd's humble pride." 

We continued our walk. The path was less beaten, and the 
sward yielded to the foot like the richest carpet. The whole 
way was " flowery, wild and sweet." All was hushed. Our 
steps frequently disturbed " the green and speckled lizards," 
that darted from the sunshine of the path and side of the Aque- 
duct, to the shade of their retreats, in some crevice of the 
work. A few wild notes struck the ear, and the gay winged 
butterflies sported in seeming dalliance with each other, ever 
and anon resting upon the flowers, which in every direction 
were blooming around us, while the golden-crested humming 
bird sipped the nectar which nature had prepared. But man 
will not permit all this in quiet. The cabinet of the naturalist 
and amateur must be filled with "specimens," and both but- 
terfly and bird lose their lives for the particolor of their down, 
and the gay, varying tints of their plumage. 

Presently we met a man sweeping a gauze net through the 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 41 

air, and pinning the insects which he caught upon his hat. He 
was a tall, raw-boned mulatto, under a broad brimmed hat, 
stuck full of insects writhing and fluttering in the agonies of 
death. His white cotton jacket might have been mistaken for 
a pincushion, the sleeves and lapels were so full of pins. 
Though barefooted, he was tidy. A bag, containing gauze, 
thread, &c., for a net, to replace that on his pole, should it be 
torn, was slung on one side, and on the other, a large, light 
wooden box, to receive his game. At our request he showed 
to us the result of his day's excursion, and appeared gratified 
by our notice of him ; his box was half full of butterflies and 
various insects. 

After parting with him, Brunner asked whether I thought 
this man badly or inhumanely treated. 

"You do not mean to say that this man is a slave?" 

*' He is a slave, and belongs to a German, who gains a living 
by making collections of birds, insects, shells, &c., which he 
sells to travellers. He has several slaves whom he has taught 
to prepare these specimens, and two or three others who hawk 
them about the streets." 

When we arrived at the "Casa da Agua," which is four 
miles from the city, we determined to rest. The *' Casa da 
Agua" is a covered basin or receptacle for the water, which 
rushes down the mountain in a narrow stream. A slab, set in 
the wall, bears date 1744, the time of commencing the work, 
and 1807, the period of its repair. 

Just above the " Casa da Agua" is a broad spreading rock, 
in the surface of which, are several slight excavations, filled 
with limpid water by tiny rills which wander from the main 
stream. The rocks rise nearly perpendicular around this spot ; 
the shade was perfect, and the air perfumed with sweet odours. 

While viewing the scene, and deliberating whether, in spite 
of the lateness of the hour, we should continue our walk to the 
observatory on the Corcovado, still a thousand feet above us, 
and only to be reached by a long, circuitous, and laborious 
path, a negro parted the bushes next the valley below, and 
stood nearly naked before us. He removed a piece of a woollen 
cap from his head, in token of respect, and saluted us with 
6 



42 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

<'Viva Senhores," grinning in the height of good nature. He 
might have been forty years of age ; he was well made, and 
remarkably athletic, yet his figure was that of a youth of twen- 
ty. His temples were tatooed, and his teeth cut off diagonally. 
His whole dress consisted of a pair of coarse, loose breeches. 
We asked him many questions ; he told us that he had been 
brought from Mozambique when young, but he did not express 
any desire to return, nor any regret for the loss of his parents. 
With some hesitation he accepted of a cigar, and it was some 
time before he was persuaded to light it; when he did, how- 
ever, he puffed in ecstacies, and I concluded that he had never 
before regaled himself with a real Havana, and said so. Brun- 
ner replied, that it was not the cigar which gave him pleasure, 
but the honor which he conceived he was receiving at our 
hands — in all probability a white man had never addressed 
him, except in a sharp, imperative tone. 

He went his ways, and we sat ourselves down upon the rock 
and lighted our cigars. 



CHAPTER IV. 

The Opera — The Currency. 

The night on which I visited the opera, " La Italiana in 
Algeri" was performed in a masterly style. The scenery was 
good, and the orchestra full and efficient. The company is 
composed of Italians, brought here by the emperor, Pedro I. 
The house is large, and contains one hundred and twelve 
boxes, besides the imperial box which fronts the stage. The 
pit is extensive, and the seats are separated from each other, 
like arm chairs, and some are so arranged that they may be 
kept under lock and key. The prompter is placed in front of 
the stage so conspicuously, that the dramatic illusion is in a 
great degree lost. A box or wooden hood is built about two 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. , 43 

feet above the level of the stage, and in the centre of the stage 
lights, intended to conceal him, but answers the end very 
badly, for as his eyes follow the lines of his book, his head, 
generally covered with a white net cap, crowned with a tassel, 
is seen moving from side to side ; and his voice sometimes rises 
above that of the actors, so that at times, they seem only to 
gesticulate while he reads. The house is dimly lighted with 
dingy tallow candles. Order is preserved and enforced by a 
number of black soldiers, distributed through the pit. 

The house was full, which argued much in favor of the mu- 
sical taste of Brazil. The ladies were dressed much in the 
style of our own belles, and wore the hair high on the top of 
the head, ornamented with artificial flowers made of feathers ; 
these are beautiful, and are the best imitation of natural flowers 
I have seen ; they are made in the convents at Bahia. Jewelry 
is more fashionable than with us. Many dark eyes, lively 
countenances, and fine busts, appeared in the dress row, yet I 
will not say the ladies were handsome; I complained of the 
immoveable, placid, unmeaning expression of most of the faces, 
but I did not quarrel with the brunettete of their complexion. 
There was not a female in the pit ; negroes and whites were 
promiscuously mixed. 

After the opera there was some fine dancing ; but according 
to my notion, the performers should diminish the extent of 
their genuflexions, and increase the thickness and longitude of 
their dresses : they appeared, 

" In very thin clothing, and but little of it." 

This over, we walked into the cofiee room. Blacks and 
whites were gay and noisy, eating and drinking together, ap- 
parently on the most intimate terms of equality. We next as- 
cended to a small bar in the fourth tier, where several gentle- 
men were refreshing themselves with lemonade, orgeat, and 
similar beverages. The Brazilians* are a temperate people, 
seldom drink in the evening, and usually confine their libations 
to wine, and that. Port. The annual consumption of Oporto 
wine is 32,000 pipes of 145 gallons each, equal to 4,640,000 
gallons ! The import duty is only six dollars the pipe. 



44 THREE TKA.RS IN THE PACIFIC. 

I gave the bar keeper a Spanish dollar to pay for some le- 
monade. He balanced it on his finger and offered to change it 
for four "petaks," which is little more than one-half of its 
value. I insisted that it was worth two " mil reis," and several 
native gentlemen present told him the same thing, but it was 
some time before he was satisfied, and at last said, " well, I 
am doing this at a great risk, and I fear I shall lose both mo- 
ney and lemonade." 

I remarked to Brunner that there appeared to be a great 
difficulty in the rate of exchange. 

"Yes," he replied, "it is owing to the fluctuating value of 
the currency, which changes almost daily. At present a Spanish 
dollar is worth seventy-two < vintems' or 1,440 reis, in copper, 
and 2,000 reis in the paper of the bank of Brazil. By this 
you will find that copper is at a premium of about 38 per cent. 
A thousand hard dollars will be received in trade at 1,920 reis 
each, but to purchase the same number, each one will cost 
2,020 reis."* 

" Then it is necessary, when transacting business, to be al- 
ways well informed of the value of money. I have noticed in 
the market, that money has a different value at stalls only a 
few yards apart, and in order to avoid difficulty, it is best to 
resort to the money-changers, who give copper for silver at a 
very small premium." 

<< Yes ; but you lose by it. They say that copper is at a pre- 
mium of 33 J per cent, and when they change a note of 10,000 
reis, they calculate the discount on that amount instead of the 
copper which you receive, and thus you lose about 400 reis." 

"Is not the bank paper as good as copper ? neither can be 
made a tender out of the country, and I suppose the bank will 
redeem its notes.*' 

"The paper never will be redeemed ; though it is said that 
the bank has sufficient in its vaults to do so. The copper has 
an intrinsic value, for when the worst comes to the worst, we 

• December 1833. The exchange has risen j the dollar is now worth only 
1,300 reis. 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 45 

can make it into pans, and besides, to the northern provinces 
it is nearly a par remittance." 

<'Then the bank is not a national one?" 

"No! It was chartered to a company. The government 
became indebted to it, and being unable to pay, assumed the 
management of the bank, and to enhance its credit, endorsed 
the notes, which only circulate within the province of Rio de 
Janeiro. The other provinces have their respective banks." 

"Still I do not understand why the value of money should 
change almost daily. I may sell goods to-day for a certain 
sum, and to-morrow they may be of one-third less value." 

" Such is the fact. This fluctuation is only attributable to 
the frequent exportation of large amounts of copper to the 
north." 

" Then the bank must make large dividends if it does much 
business ?" 

" Technically speaking, the bank does no business whatever. 
It receives deposites, but does not discount, and the only source 
of profit is its property, and the loss or wearing out of its 
notes.'* 

<* Goods must pay a handsome advance on the invoice to 
yield profit, while the rate of exchange is so high ?" 

" Such would be the case if remittances were made to the 
United States in coin ; this country afibrds, however, good 
returns in cofiee, hides, sugars, &c., and when bills are wanted, 
they are always negotiated on European houses." 

The inconvenience which would have resulted in the United 
States, from the establishment of the small money unit, pro- 
posed by Robert Morris, the financier, is practically illustrated 
at Rio. A dollar at par contains one thousand parts, called 
<* reis," and hence the dollar is termed a " mil rei." A trifling 
accompt, to persons unacquainted with the currency, is an 
alarming document ; the gross amount of a bill for ten dollars 
is represented by five figures. This makes calculation tedious, 
and to strangers embarrassing. Americans require their bills 
reduced to dollars, and Englishmen must have them in pounds, 
shillings, and pence, before they understand them. 



46 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

The following is a specimen of a Brazilian accompt, render- 
ed by the English-speaking clerk. 

Rio Janeiro. Dec: 1833. 





To Louzada & Ca. 




2 Duz'ns Port wine 


- 


8,000 rs. 


16,000 rs 


1 Barel Mackrels 


- 


. 


10,000 " 


3 Duz'ns Claret 


- 


- 


15,000 " 


50 lb. Indian meal 


- 


- 


5,000 " 


5 " Nutmegs 


- 


- 


1,600 " 


46^ <' Ham 


- 


280 rs. 


13,020 " 


5 Duz'ns Fowls 


- 


7,500 '< 


37,500 " 


500 Onons 


- 


1,800 ^' 


9,000 " 


5 lb. Asspice 


- 


- 


1,600 " 


23 Duz'ns Eggs 


- 


360 " 


8,280 " 


68 lb. Butter 


- 


320 " 


21,760 " 


Vegetables 




Total, 


13,000 «« 




151,760 rs 



"Dollars at 1,280 reis, makes gll8^*^." 



CHAPTER V. 

The Botanic Garden — A Peep at Court. 

Early one morning we seated ourselves in a " calega," and 
set oflf to visit the Botanic Garden. The <' calega" is a kind of 
gig or chaise, which has the body hung in advance of the axle, 
and betwixt a pair of huge, clumsy wheels, made gaudy with 
paint and gilt, not however in the best taste. A leather curtain 
in front serves to screen ladies from admiration, and gentle- 
men from dust, when they do not care for the scenery through 



Notices op brazil. 47 

which they ride. To this vehicle two mules are harnessed 
abreast ; one in the shafts,, and the other on the outside, to bear 
the "talegero/' in his grotesque livery and big boots. Though 
a hackman, he wears a uniform, which is sometimes a green 
coatee with red trimmings and white steel buttons ; at others, 
a blue coatee with yellow collar and cuffs. Armed with a 
heavily loaded whip, he bestrides his little saddle, and lashes 
and spurs the mules from the start. In spite of appearances, 
however, our calega proved to be a very commodious and easy- 
going carriage, and whirled us along at the rate of five pr six 
miles the hour. 

We rolled through several streets, and emerged from the 
city upon the Praya do Flamingo, whence we had a fine view 
of the harbor and shipping. Our carriage was soon passing a 
handsome chateau, which was shut, and apparently uninhabit- 
ed. This was one of the ex-emperor's retreats. Next we came 
in sight of the peaceful waters of Botafogo, shut in and almost 
land-locked by high and irregular hills, whose shadows were 
trembling on the surface of the bay, now glittering in the ftrst 
beams of the rising sun. The whole shore is studded with 
houses and gardens ; and the morning air came perfumed with 
flowers, and conveyed delight in every breath. - 

'• Not all the charms, that ethnic fancy gave 
To blessed arbours o'er the western wave. 
Could wake a dream more soothing or sublime. 
Of bowers ethereal and the spirit's clime !" 

At the head of the bay we turned to the right. The country, 
was beautifully picturesque. About four miles from town the 
road lies between a lake, which is separated from the ocean by 
a narrow strip of land, at one place so low that the sea not un- 
frequently finds its way over it, and the irregular hills which 
terminate in the almost overhanging Corcovado. Tiny rills 
gush from the sides of the mountain, and leap in miniature cas^ 
cades down its side, fertilizing the ground over which they 
pass. From this spot we saw a large square mountain, which 
is considered an excellent land mark in making the harbor of 
Rio ; from its supposed resemblance to a ship's topsail, it is 



48 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

called "la gavia." At this spot, a redoubt of stone, mounting 
four guns, effectually protects the southern part of this route to 
the city. About two miles, or perhaps less, beyond the lake, is 
the Botanic Garden ; one of the spots usually visited by travel- 
lers, and which will alw^ays pay them for their pains. When 
our caleca halted before the iron gate, it was opened by a ne- 
gro, who afterwards became our guide, and pointed out the 
most interesting parts of the garden. 

The Botanic Garden was established by Dom Leandro do 
Sacramento. It covers a surface of about four acres, laid out 
in alleys and beds, which are kept in fine order. It contains a 
large number of exotics, and a great deal of the tea plant, which 
was introduced to ascertain whether this climate was suitable 
for its culture. So desirous was the emperor of naturalizing it, 
that he imported a Chinese, with his family, to attend solely 
to the cultivation of this plant. Thus far it promises well, and 
in time may become of importance to the country. This gar- 
den produced, (I think, in 1830,) forty "arrobas" (32 lb.); in 
San Pablo, El Senhor Dom Jose Arouche de Toledo Ren- 
don gathers annually from eighteen to twenty '' arrobas ;" in 
the province of Las Minas are gathered about twenty arrobas; 
besides other places of which we have no account. In 1826, 
shoots were sent to Maraiian, but perished from the dryness 
of the season. 

In different places are turf seats, and benches shaded by trees 
and surrounded by every variety of flowers. Within a short 
distance of each other, are growing, arrow-root, sago, carda- 
mom, cinnamon, cloves, and the bread-fruit tree weighed 
down with its own production. Nature and art have produced 
wonders here ! While we rested in the shade of the beautiful 
Jacca tree, the song of birds, and the odors of spices and 
flowers, fell soothingly upon the senses. 

The only plant of which we were not permitted to break 
twigs, is a small bush about four feet high, termed the national 
tree, because each leaf contains a mixture of yellow and green 
— the colors of the Brazilian flag. Even of this, however, we 
were indulged with a few leaves. 

We returned to the city at eleven o'clock, in time to dress 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 49 

to visit the Court, which held a levee in honor of the anniver- 
sary of the independence of Brazil from the throne of Portu- 
gal. * 

At half past twelve the American Legation reached the side 
entrance of the palace, and alighting from the calecas, made 
way through the gate to the stair. As we ascended, I learned 
from one of our party, that wearing gloves or hats in the im- 
perial presence was equally contrary to etiquette. I had been 
instructed in the part which I was to enact in the pageant At 
the head of the stairs, and entrance of the saloon, stood an hal- 
berdier, dressed in a harlequin suit of green, checkered with 
yellow stripes half an inch v/ide. In the first room, which was 
handsomely furnished, were several gentlemen of the foreign 
corps diplomatique, and among them a Nuncio from the Pope. 
Of course all were in their court dresses. From this, we 
passed into a larger room, fitted up in a much more elegant 
manner. Both were hung with portraits, and paintings illus- 
trative of Brazilian history, which seemed to be the topic of 
conversation with several foreign ministers, who were wait- 
ing for the opening of the Court. The subject of one of 
these pictures, is a story which I presume every good Portu- 
guese and Brazilian ought to believe. It runs, that some time 
in the beginning of the twelfth century, the Moors and Portu- 
guese were at war ; the forces of the two nations were very 
unequal ; the Moors counted three hundred thousand warriors, 
while the Christian army scarcely numbered thirteen thousand 
fighting men. Notwithstanding this great disparity of force, 
Alphonso, the Portuguese general, resolved to give battle, 
though to all the issue seemed not to be doubtful. He ha- 
rangued his troops, and exhorted them to conquer or die, 
rather than yield to the infidel. Having increased their confi- 
dence by his eloquence, he announced the following day to be 
fixed for the conflict, and that Heaven would manifest some 
extraordinary sign as a harbinger of victory ! 

He retired to his tent, and read, in the Bible, the history of 
Gideon, which he looked upon as similar to his own. While 

tJ*i-: * September 6th. 



50 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

asleep, he dreamed that a venerable sage appeared and promis- 
ed him the victory ! This vision had scarcely passed away, 
when an officer informed him that a strange old man had en- 
tered the camp, and v,ras extremel)"^ importunate to be admitted 
to his presence. Alphonso ordered the stranger to be conduct- 
ed into the tent ; when he entered, the general recognised in 
him the person he had seen in his dream. Without waiting for 
interrogation, the old man stated that he was a fisherman, and 
had been doing penance for sixty years on a neighboring moun- 
tain ; — that he had now come, by command of God, to announce 
victory to the arms of Portugal ; adding, "when you hear a 
clock strike, go forth from your tent ; you will behold a bright 
manifestation of what Heaven is doing for you !" and immedi- 
ately departed, leaving Alphonso filled with mingled joy and 
surprise. Some time after day break, hearing a clock strike, 
he hastily armed himself, and sallied from the tent. In the 
midst of a flaming cloud he beheld a group of angels supporting 
a crucifix ! A clear voice announced the victory, and that the 
soldiers would proclaim Alphonso king ; the voice required 
that he should accept and wear the crown ; prophesying that 
he would henceforward glorify God, and carry his religion to 
the most distant climates in the world ! Alphonso prostrated 
himself, and declared that he would obey the commands thus 
emanating from Heaven ; and begged, in case his people should 
ever offend, that he might suffer chastisement in their stead. 
The vision vanished, and the victory was gained over Ismael ! 
The story of the painting was just concluded, when the right 
hand door opened, and the ladies and gentlemen of the Brazil- 
ian Household entered. Dom Pedro H. was accompanied by 
his sisters and the regency. The dresses of the members of the 
court were splendid ; that of the young emperor was neat and 
simple. As they passed through the rooms, every head was 
bowed in salutation. Presently a flourish of trumpets, followed 
by a grand march by a full band, proclaimed the opening of the 
Court. We had all followed into the anteroom. In a few mo- 
ments the chamberlain informed the corps diplomatique that 
his Imperial Highness was ready to receive them. Those who 
had resided longest near this court, took precedence, and fol- 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 51 

lowed the chamberlain through the left hand door. The Ame- 
rican Legation was last. Our Charge preceded, and the officers 
followed according to rank, at about three yards from each 
other. On entering the presence, we all bowed ; and again, 
when half way up to the dais, and repeated the reverence im- 
mediately before his Highness. Then retreating, with our faces 
towards the throne, and making three bows, we made our exit 
through the right hand door. This movement in a large room, 
is far from being graceful ; and from the impediment experi- 
enced by the clergy, in consequence of wearing long robes, 
they have been excused from this retrograde step. We halted 
in the room where the chamberlain had met us, to observe 
those who were still entering to pay their court to the infant 
emperor. 

The throne room was richly hung with green velvet, sprink- 
led with gold and silver stars, and the floor was covered with a 
bright colored carpet, with a centre medallion figure. Dom 
Pedro II., who bears a striking resemblance to his father, 
stood upon the dais — an elevation of one step, on which the 
throne is usually placed — with the regency on his right, and 
his two younger sisters on his left hand. His large, liquid eyes, 
wandered from one person to another with an expression of 
half indifference. His salutations were stiff, and the princesses, 
who are his seniors* (he is not six years old), seemed to suffer 
a kind of mauvaise honte. Ladies and lords, and officers bear- 
ing their respective insignia, stood along the walls on either 
hand. Many of the courtiers were arrayed in rich suits of vel- 
vet of antiquated fashion, and wore those decorations of honor 
which it may have pleased royalty to bestow upon them. 

The crowd soon began to move out of the palace towards 
their carriages. The music continued ; conversation was gay ; 
every body wore a holy-day face, and self approbation might 
be read in every countenance ! 

* The late empress left five children. 

Dona Maria de Gloria, Queen of Portugal, born April 4th, 1819. 
Dona Januaria, .... « March 11th, 1821. 

Dona Paulina Mariana, - - - " February 17th, 1823. 

Dona Francisca Carolina, ... «« August 2d, 1824. 

Dom Pedro d' Alcantara, (now Dom Pedro H. ) «* December 2d, 1825. 



52 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER VI. 

A walk — A ride — A dinner party. 

On Sunday morning I strolled about the city with a friend. 
Towards point Gl&ria, and. in front of a large building once oc- 
cupied as a royal residence, is a garden, or rather park. Large 
trees of many varieties, amongst which are mangoes and aca- 
cias, shade the alleys and walks which lead through parterres 
and beds of flowers. I visited this place frequently, because I 
thought it a promenade for ladies, but I have found that no- 
body resorts there, save a few old men and priests. After 
viewing the bay from the wall, which is washed by the waves, 
and examining a bronze fountain which is now dry, we walked 
to where the aqueduct, elevated on arches, passes into the city. 
Near it was a crowd of negroes of both sexes, standing half leg 
deep, washing. The lower limbs were bare to the hips, and 
their dress tucked up in such a manner as to give it the appear- 
ance of a pair of short breeches. The clothes were spread 
about on the banks of this drain for the benefit of the sun. 
Pieces of wardrobe were undergoing the lavatory process by 
being beaten with good will between two stones — an excellent 
test of the strength of the fabric, and which saves the hands 
quite as well as our best constructed washing machines. The 
operators were very gay. Their chattering seemed ceaseless; 
yet its monotony was relieved occasionally by little bickerings 
and contentions, which arose from slight encroachments, made 
by one or another on what was conceived to be, by priority of 
possession, the spot or pounding stone of some one indivi- 
dual. These advantages of location are not unimportant ; the 
water is much clearer and in greater abundance in some places 
than in others. These disputes sometimes led to blows, and 
then some worthy master's linen was applied very unceremo- 
niously about the ears of the contending parties. The wenches 
generally came off victorious, much to the amusement of the 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 53 

crowd, who displayed their approbation and white teeth much 
to the annoyance and irritation of the discomfited black, who 
was sometimes forced to move higher up the stream. This 
scene also affords amusement to the neighbors, if we may judge 
from the number of females, peeping and laughing from the 
windows of the surrounding houses. 

On our return to the Praga de San Jos6 we met Brunner, 
who insisted upon our dining with him at his country resi- 
dence. In a very few minutes our party had increased so much, 
that several calegas* were necessary to carry us. I was seated 
with my friend, and we set off at a fine trot ; as soon as we 
got out of the city, the ride became so pleasant that I would 
have willingly prolonged it. Chateaus and plantations lined 
the road on both sides. An air of luxury and tranquillity per- 
vaded most of them ; but the retreats of Englishmen could be 
distinguished, by the great comfort and neatness that charac- 
terize their dwellings in every part of the world, from those 
belonging either to Brazilian or Portuguese gentlemen. The 
air was perfumed with flowers and fruits, contrasting most de- 
lightfully with that in the confined streets of Rio. 

An hour's drive brought us to a lane running through a cof- 
fee plantation, and terminating at the door of Dom Bento Tro- 
vato's house. Our reception was cordial, and we were soon 
conversing in Spanish or in French with the daughters of our 
worthy host. His son carried us over the magnificent dwell- 
ing, which is not yet entirely finished. The rooms are spa- 
cious, and adapted to the climate. The furniture is of beautiful 
rose wood, and most of it has been made on the spot. A gar- 
den of flowers has been commenced, and a labyrinth formed 
in it afforded amusement to some of the party, who found them- 
selves entangled in the mazes of its many winding paths. 

Thousands of pounds of coffee are gathered annually on this 
plantation. On an average, each tree yields about a pound, but 
some will yield, when taken great care of, three, four, and 
even five pounds, but that is not usual. All that is required 
in its cultivation is, occasionally to loosen the earth about the 

* Each calega acconunodates but two persons. 



54 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

trees; the greatest labor is in gathering and drying it, and 
without slaves this business would be unproductive. The cof- 
fee is gathered, the pod taken off — each one contains two 
grains — and spread out to dry in a yard with a tile floor; its 
quality then depends very much upon the care taken in turning 
it. A great deal of the coffee consumed in the United States 
is from this place, and it is only the first quality which will 
sell there. The second quality is sent to Europe, where, in 
many places, it is parched or roasted and ground before it is 
sold. Though not a tree is cultivated beyond a hundred miles 
from Rio, the whole world might be supplied with coffee from 
this port alone. 

The coffee tree came originally from upper Ethiopia, where 
it has been known from time immemorial, and is still culti- 
vated with success. It is supposed very generally that a Mo- 
lacho, a kind of priest, named "Chadely," was the first Arab 
who made use of coffee ; and he was led to it, to free himself 
from a continual somnolence which interrupted his nocturnal 
devotions and prayers. The Derves and religious mussulmen 
imitated him, and the "Legistas" followed their example. 
From the coasts of the Red Sea, its use passed, by means of 
travellers, to Medina and Mecca, and all the Mahometan coun- 
tries. Public coffee houses were established in Persia under 
the regulation of the government, and became the fashionable 
resort for the idle to lounge, and the busy to rest ; politicians 
to talk of news; poets to recite their verses, and the "Mola- 
chos" to dispute. In Constantinople the introduction of coffee 
caused a great sensation. The caffes were crowded, and the 
mosques were deserted ; therefore the mufti declared coffee to 
be comprehended within the law of Mahomet, which forbids 
the use of strong liquors, and in consequence, the Porte shut 
up the coffee house doors. 

In 1652, a merchant named <' Edward," on his return from 
the Levant, introduced coffee into London. The English were 
pleased with it ; and since that time its use has been adopted 
over all Europe and America ; but to a moderate extent com- 
pared with countries where the use of wines is prohibited. 

In Arabia the rich only partake of it, while the poor make 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 55 

an infusion from the shell of this precious berry. It is said to 
be clear, not so bitter nor so strong as coffee. Betalfagui, a 
city of Yemen, is its great mart in Arabia. It is exported from 
Mecca.* 

Before dinner the time was passed in conversation and list- 
ening to music ; several pieces, of which Dom Pedro I. is the 
composer, and which speak well for his taste, were played. 
He is passionately fond of music, and there are very few in- 
struments which he does not play well. The opera company, 
or rather the musicians, were not unfrequently brought to San 
Christovao to accompany the emperor in his concerts, or to 
play his compositions. Mrs. Brunner was fond of speaking of 
the empress Leopoldina, with whom she was intimately ac- 
quainted, and described her as a sociable and amiable woman ; 
she attributes her death to Dom Pedro's brutality. The pre- 
sent ex-empress was also highly spoken of, but not with the 
same devotional feeling as the former. She is much beloved 
by the emperor, and is said to exercise very great influence 
over him ; yet he spoke to her once so harshly at table, on 
board of H. B. M, Ship Warspite, that she retired in tears. He 
is extremely timid at sea; on their passage to England on 
board of H. B. M. Ship Volage,'lie asked her whether she was 
not afraid; "Why should I be," she replied, "while I see 
the captain is not?" 

Dom Pedro is said to possess a considerable share of good 
nature, and the following anecdote seems to bear evidence of 

it. A midshipman H of the United States Navy, some 

four or five years since, followed a man who deserted from his 
boat, into the palace, where the sailor had fled, in hopes of 

eluding pursuit. Mr. H rushed by the sentinel, and by 

mistake, got into the audience room. The noise occasioned by 
his abrupt entry, led the emperor to inquire the cause ; and 
when informed that it was a young naval officer, ordered him 
to his presence. The midshipman told the emperor that he had 
entered the palace in pursuit of a deserter, and would not leave 



* See Establecimientos Ultramarinos por Edwardo Malo de Luque. Tomo 
segundo. Madrid. 1785. 



56 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

it till he should find him. Dom Pedro was pleased by his re- 
solute manner, and extended his hand to be kissed. The mid- 
dy, however, did not so understand him, but gave it a hearty 
shake, and requested the emperor to allow the deserter to be 

sought and delivered up. The sailor was taken, and Mr. H 

left the palace. 

A few days afterwards, the emperor, when driving four-in- 
hand, met Mr. H . He drew up the horses, and extended 

his hand, which Mr. H shook very cordially, and told 

his Highness that he was extremely happy to see him. The 

emperor frequently related the anecdote, and styled Mr. H 

his ''young American friend." 

We sat down to dinner at three o'clock. The party was 
large. There was an officer there, belonging to one of the 
men-of-war in the bay, who particularly interested me. He 
was a fat, stout man, with a plump Falstaff rotundity of per- 
son, and a red face. His forehead was remarkably high, rising 
like a pyramid above his blonde eyebrows ; but it was narrow, 
and his whole head bore no slight resemblance to a truncated 
sugar loaf. It has shaken my faith in the doctrine of phrenolo- 
gy ! His aquiline nose was placed like a peeping post between 
two large, prominent eyes, which, like jealous neighbors, ex- 
ercised a constant surveillance over each others views. This 
gentleman was evidently a gourmand, and so fond of eating, 
that he seldom spoke, unless for the purpose of recommending 
some particular sauce, or good dish before him. To say that he 
was " the man who eat up all the pudding," would be no libel. 
He sat next to me. After devouring a portion of a very fine 
fish, he commenced cleaning his plate, with his bread, of the 
compound sauces he had poured upon it, and spoke for the first 
time during the whole day. "Elegant fish. Sir! beautiful 
soy !" then turning his head to one side, and leaning over the 
table, filled his mouth with a piece of bread, dripping with oil 
and fish sauce. He could not speak ; but laying his hand on a 
decanter, nodded to me and filled his glass. The draught was 
swallowed with more gout than I had before seen — " delicious 
Port." 

The fish, which my taciturn friend so justly praised, was 



NOTICES or BRAZIL. 57 

large, and resembled the sheep's-head in form, but very supe- 
rior to it in flavor. It is much esteemed at Rio, and is rather 
rare. The great price given for it is an evidence of the high 
estimation in which it is held. Brunner told me that fifteen 
or twenty dollars have been paid for one weighing as many 
pounds. Fish of every kind pay a tithe to government for the 
support of hospitals. 

Opposite to my officer was seated a fine looking English 
gentleman, whose shirt bosom was deeply embroidered, and 
closed with most aristocratic diamond buttons; besides, he 
wore beautiful cambric ruffles, and a diamond ring on his little 

finger. This was an Attach^ to Legation. You could 

easily perceive that he was a distinguished man, for he seldom 
used his fork, but scooped up the morsels with a piece of bread. 
With the ladies he was an oracle, but not so deeply venerated 
by my friend Brunner, and I discovered that Dom Bento, once 
or twice, attempted a joke at his expense. Some one remarked, 
during dinner, that he had been a month at Rio, and had not 
yet seen a lady in the street. 

" That is certainly a very strange fact," said the Attache, 
*'but, I presume, it is entirely owing to the jealoua nature of 
Brazilian husbands !" 

" Not so," replied a gentleman of a very serious and sarcas- 
tic manner; "there is a better reason; they are unwilling to 
brave the sight of naked negroes, like the English and French 
ladies here, and shrink from many things that are brought be- 
fore us in the streets." 

"But you will not admit this, Mr. L ," said Dom 

Bento. 

" Not he," continued the sarcastic gentlemanj ** because he 
knows very well that there is no jealousy in England, nor vir- 
tuous, nor chaste, nor modest women, any where else!" 

" I beg your pardon, gentlemen ; though I do not say sweep- 
ingly that there is not a virtuous woman in France or Brgizil, 
yet I think you will agree with me, that, in a given number, 
there is a greater proportion of truly virtuous females in Great 
Britain, than in any other country in the world ; at any rate, 
they are more sociable, and certainly better educated. " 
8 



58 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

" What do you think of his lordship's mutton, Mr. L ?" 

asked Dom Bento. 

My officer broke in ; "I agree with Mr. L , this is most 

exquisite mutton, and the capers sauce is luscious !" 

" I was not thinking of his lordship's mutton ; but, preju- 
dice aside, it is universally conceded, that there is no mutton 
in the world like the English." 

"No one disputes that the mutton is good in England, but 
that it is better than any other, I doubt," said the sarcastic 
gentleman ; " you will say the same of the beef, and I assure 
you, I have eaten better beef, and better mutton too, both in 
Peru and Montevideo, than I ever did in England !" 

The Attache was not easily disconcerted, for when Dom 
Bento said — I must confess somewhat maliciously — " the mut- 
ton you are now eating and praising, is Brazilian, and reared 
upon my own estate," the great man quickly replied, " I dare 
swear it is of English breed !" 

This conversation, or rather dialogue, was carried on in 
English. The ladies were speaking Spanish. 

" How is it," asked Mrs. Brunner, " that not a North Ame- 
rican — not a single one, of the many who have been in Brazil, 
has ever married a lady of the country ? Foreigners from every 
other part of the world have found wives here !" 

"Oh!" said an old bachelor, "the ladies are too unsocial 
and formal for them ; only think, it requires, I am told, six 
years to become acquainted, and besides, you are all such stub- 
born Catholics, that, to gain your hands, a man must forswear 
his religion !" 

<'I will contradict that," said Brunner. 

"So you may," replied the bachelor, ^^ exceptio probat 
regulam.^^ The fact is, that North Americans — much as they 
are given to wandering — possess a greater love of country than 
any other adventurers who seek their fortunes abroad. I say 
adventurers, because no man will leave his own fire side, un- 
less it be with a hope of better fortune, and an easier life in 
another clime ; except travellers from curiosity. 

After the ladies retired, several songs were sung, and the 
Attach^ did me the honor to ask me to take wine with him ; 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 59 

when the glasses were filled, he said, in a most gracious tone, 
smiling and bowing at the same time, "Will you say some- 
thing, or shall I ?" 

*' You, if you please, Sir!" 
" Then, the President of the United States !" 
We joined the ladies at an eai'ly hour, and spent the after- 
noon agreeably, in dancing, music, and conversation. The 
<* Miudinho," the music of which is the composition of Dom 
Pedro, and <* a nine handed reel," were exhibited to us as 
the dances of the country. They are both animated and amus- 
ing- 
After tea, and a pleasant drive by moonfight, we arrived ia 

town about nine o'clock. 

Foreigners generally tell us that the natives of Rio are cold 
and inhospitable; it must be granted, on one hand, that the 
Brazilians are somewhat formal, and require gentlemen to be 
properly introduced ; and on the other, foreigners visit the city 
without letters to any of the natives, and few of them speak 
the language ! Under such circumstances, how can they know 
each other? 

I am told by those who have long resided here, that the la- 
dies are amiable and kind ; and in the higher circles, elegant 
and polished in their manners. They are deficient in the essen- 
tials of a polite education, but are accomplished musicians and 
dancers. Their style of beauty would not please us. They 
are generally very dark brunettes, have fine black eyes, and 
hair, and are rather beyond embonpoint — in fact, the whole 
population appears to be disposed to grossness and obesity. As 
in all tropical climates, the ladies are marriageable at a very 
early age — they are not unfrequently mothers at twelve and 
fourteen years old ! 



60 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Architecture — Cries — Market — Churches — Cemetery of San Francisco de 
Paula — Funerals — Climate — Prison — Slave market — Library — Newspapers. 

This city offers much to interest and much to disgust the 
traveller. The construction of the houses is suited to the mild- 
ness of the climate, which is never cold enough to require the 
dwellings to be warmed artificially. The consequent absence 
of chimneys rising above the roofs as in our northern cities, 
impresses us at first with the belief that there is a feature want- 
ing, and which is not at first discovered. The houses are gene- 
rally two stories high, rough cast or whitewashed. The win- 
dows of the second story extend from the floor, and open upon 
iron verandas, in which it is common in the afternoon to see 
gentlemen enjoying the cigar. The red tile roofs, with their 
eaves projecting and terminating in points, make the houses 
and the landscape around Rio resemble the sketches we see 
upon crockery. In the interior of the houses, wooden ceiling 
is generally substituted for plaster; and it is usual for all the 
apartments of the same floor to communicate above the parti- 
tions, which do not extend entirely to the top or cornice of the 
room. This allows a free circulation of air, which is so essen- 
tial to comfort and health in tropical climates. The lower floor 
is occupied as a coach house and stables, and visitors cannot 
reach the family without passing the family coach, which is 
kept in fine order. This custom takes its origin from the fond- 
ness of show which is innate with the Portuguese and Spa- 
niards. The entrance door is properly a large gate, which is 
constantly watched by a black slave in livery, who manages to 
keep awake by sliding his thumbs over a " marimba." In the 
lower windows, close trellis shutters, hung from above hori- 
zontally, answer all the purpose of glass. 

The streets are narrow, always dirty, and intersect each 
other nearly at right angles. In their centres, run small 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 61 

streams of water, which are usually the vehicles of filth ; and 
when it rains, which it does, and very heavily, during a con- 
siderable part of the year, the whole street is overflowed. The 
side walks are very narrow, and the dress of foot passengers 
is always in danger of being soiled by the splashing of horses 
and carriages. 

The me* of the town are indescribable ; the ears are assailed 
with the shrill and discordant voices of women slaves vending 
fruits and sweetmeats ; and of the water carriers crying ' agua,' 
which they carry about on their heads in large wooden kegs, 
filled at the different fountains ; each one is worth about six 
cents. 

The market place is a filthy collection of booths, generally 
surrounded with mud, under which is sold a variety of vege- 
tables and fruits. The yam supplies the place of the potato. 
The oranges are amongst the finest in the world, and are sold 
at from ten to twenty-five cents the hundred. Butcher's meats 
are sold in shops which may be scented from afar, proclaiming 
the state in which they are kept. It is customary to require 
the purchaser, after selecting what he wishes, to take also a 
piece of an animal that may have been killed three or four 
days ; and if he refuse, the butcher most obstinately withholds 
the chosen morsel. The beef is tender, but entirely destitute 
of fat, and would be much better if more care and cleanliness 
were bestowed in the butchery. The pork is very good ; but 
the mutton is bad, and extravagantly dear. The poultry is in- 
different, and far from being cheap. The fish market is a very 
good one, generally well supplied ; oysters are found in the 
bay, but they are not much esteemed. I am told, there is a 
market for monkeys and parrots, but I did not visit it. 

There are in this city thirty-nine churches ; some of which 
are splendidly and fancifully ornamented. That of San Fran- 
cisco de Paula is a very large one. The naves are spacious, 
and the chapels are well furnished with wax candles, crucifixes, 
paintings, and images of saints. The whole interior of the 
church is decorated with pillars and heavy carving. But little 
light enters through the painted panes, and that seems to dim 
the blaze of the tall candles. The whole inspires a religious 



62 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

awe, well calculated to influence the mind of the uneducated, 
who readily yield to appearances which they do not compre- 
hend. 

I visited this church on All Saints' Eve. It was filled with 
worshippers kneeling on pieces of carpet and mats, counting 
their beads in silence for the rest of the departed. The silence 
Was interrupted, ever and anon, by the bursting of rockets sent 
from the church steps and belfry, accompanied by a short peal 
of bells. I threaded my way through the kneeling crowd, to 
a side door which leads to the cemetery of the church. It is 
an open court, surrounded by a corridor, supported by wooden 
pillars. I descended the short stair to the temple of death, 
called the " Catacumbas;" by the faint glimmer of the lamps, 
and the soft light of the starry heaven, I saw a number of slaves 
busied in decorating the sepulchres of their late masters. Crim- 
son satin and black velvet canopies, trimmed with broad gold 
and silver lace and spangles, were tastefully arranged over the 
vases containing the ashes of the dead. Around the enclosure, 
forming in fact the walls, are tiers of holes, each one of which 
is just large enough to contain a human body. The corpse, 
with its coffin, is deposited in one of these holes, where it 
remains for two years, and at the expiration of that time is re- 
moved ; the bones are burned, and the ashes inurned for preser- 
vation. Some of these urns are very beautiful, being ornament- 
ed, and bearing the appropriate epitaphs and inscriptions in gilt 
letters. Funerals are conducted here with as great pomp as 
the circumstances of the deceased will allow. It is very com- 
mon to hire coffins for the occasion, and they are always large 
enough to receive within them a rough box enclosing the 
corpse. Funerals always take place at night, and the dead 
body is left in the church till the ensuing day, when the rough 
coffin is sealed up in the hole, and the gay one is returned to 
the undertaker, to figure on another occasion. 

The police of Rio is military ; walk where you may, soldiers 
and barracks are met with. 

The low situation of this city, and the filthy state of its streets, 
rendered it formerly very unhealthy ; the slave trade was the 
means of introducing contagious diseases, which spread Ihem- 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 63 

selves amongst the people. In a great measure, however, these 
evils have disappeared, owing to the establishment of a more 
efficient police, and the abolition of the importation of slaves 
from Africa. The climate is eternal spring, summer, and au- 
tumn blended together, for the fruit trees are budding and 
yielding their fruits at the same time ; and while one tree is 
just putting forth its modest blossoms, another, only a few feet 
from it, is bending under the weight of its produce. Seeds 
thrown into the ground, spring into a plant, and yield a crop, 
with but little care. 

The other day I passed by the "Cargalada" or prison. From 
it proceeded a most offensive smell, arising most probably from 
the crowding together so many persons, and neglecting to re- 
move the filth that must be continually accumulating. At the 
grated windows appeared a number of the prisoners, calling 
out to the passers by to give them alms, or to purchase the 
horn combs, and cups and toys which they held up in their 
hands. In the street, three or four prisoners were chained by 
the neck to the wall, begging ; they were "pedindo justiga" 
— asking justice. One of them was a mulatto, who informed 
me, that an opportunity was thus afforded to those who were 
without money, to obtain means to pay for their trial, and fee 
their lawyers. He was charged with an assault, and had been 
put in the street with others to beg, as the prison does not 
afford rations before trial.* In the second story were several 
well dressed men, seated in the verandas, smoking. They were 
confined for debt. A little beyond the prison, I questioned a 
Portuguese, who was standing at his door, and, as is usually 
the case, he readily gave me what information I asked. He 
told me that the prison contained at this time six hundred and 
twenty-seven persons. 

I am happy to state, that I sought in vain for the slave mar- 
ket which I visited in 1826. By the common consent of the 
Christian world, the traffic in slaves has ceased ; yet I am told 



* " On dolt ajouter que le gouvemment ne se charge point de la d^pense 
des prisonniers, et qu'il laisse ^ la pitii des habitants le soin de les nourier." 

Dennig, — JBtstoire du Briail, 



64 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

that some have been imported, clandestinely, since 1830. At 
the time I visited this market, 1 saw the poor slaves, seated on 
benches, thirty or forty together, and entirely naked, except 
the loins, which were covered by a fold of blue cotton cloth. 
Many of them were suffering from the small pox, or just con- 
valescing. While I was looking into one of these stalls of hu- 
man life, a lady, attended by two servants, entered, and gazing 
round at the group, fixed her eye upon one, and after survey- 
ing him well, as a practiced jockey does a horse, she inquired 
the price. The merchant ordered the individual indicated to 
get up, and then put him through several exercises, to show 
that his motions were perfect. All this took place with the 
same indifference, or more, than is evinced generally in a bar- 
gain for a pair of gloves. 

In the rear of the imperial chapel there is a public library, 
containing fifty thousand volumes, open to the public every 
day. The librarian is very urbane, and scrupulously attentive 
to propriety, even in the dress of the visiters. I visited it one 
day, when the thermometer was standing at 90° F., in com- 
pany with a gentleman who wore a white jacket, after the fa- 
shion of the place ; the librarian very politely told him that it 
was against the rules of the institution for gentlemen to appear 
there in such a costume, and begged him therefore to with- 
draw ! 

The general taste for reading in any country, may be esti- 
mated by the number and kind of various periodicals published 
in it.* In Rio Janeiro there are several daily and bi-weekly 
newspapers printed, the largest of which is the *' Jornal do 
CoMMERCio,'^ and that is of half the size of the " National 

• A valuable publication, like "Waldie's Library," a work which is doing 
so much in the United States to diffuse a taste for reading, and consequently 
for the diffusion of knowledge (the demand for which speaks well for the good 
taste of our countrymen), would not be patronised in any State of South Ame- 
rica ; simply for the reason that a taste for literature is not general. A volume 
of " Waldie," always delightful on land, is a desideratum at sea, from its com- 
pact and portable form. Passengers in merchant ships, who find complete sets 
on board, may deem themselves fortunate ? the libraries of United States ves- 
sels should never be without them. 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 95 

Intelligencer," published at Washington, D. C. The others 
are the <<0 Indigena do Brazil," and "0 Iman. Jornal 
Caramuru," and some others, of the size of half a sheet of 
foolscap paper. They are occupied with items of foreign news, 
imperial decrees, personal attacks, and advertisements of run- 
away slaves. Some of these are curious. 

" Roga-se ao Sr. Jodo Carlos Bouvier de chega h rua Di- 
reitUf N. 34, d, respeito de humnegocio que ndo ignora, isto 
no praso de trez dias dapublicagdo deste, alids d natureza 
de negocio sord publicada.^' 

" Mr. Joao Carlos Bouvier, is requested to call at No. 34, 
rua Direita, relative to an affair of which he is not ignorant ; if 
he do not in three days from this, the nature of the affair will 
be published." 

Another. — ^^Roga-se ao Sr. Cirurgido tdntonio Francisco 
Pereira da Fonceca, haja de mandar b, rua de S. Jos^, N. 
122, pagar 4\\l20rs. que deve ha mais de dous annos.^^ 

<< Mr. C A F Pereira da Fonceca is requested 

to send to No. \22, rua de S. Jose, and pay 4l|130 rs., which he 
has owed more than two years !" — An unpleasant dun ! 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Geography of Brazil— Products — Diamond Mines. 

The empire of Brazil is the most extensive of the several 
countries of South America. Nature has marked tihe boundary 
on the north by the river Maranon ; on the south is the Re- 
public of Montevideo, formerly the Banda Oriental ; on the 
west, the mountains of Matto-Grosso separate it from Peru } 
and on the east, its shores are washed by the Atlantic. 

The whole country is watered by large streams, which afford 
a water communication in almost every direction ; and by the 
9 



6B THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

addition of a few canals, the inhabitants of the more remote 
sections would be enabled to send their produce to the chief 
markets on the coast- In a few years, the Maranon will become 
a great highway of commerce, by steam navigation, from .the 
interior of Peru, and even from the shores of the Pacific ocean ; 
then a large portion of trade, now conducted by the route of 
Cape Horn, will be directed into this new channel. 

The country is divided into provinces, or captaincies. Along 
the coast are Guyana, Para, Maranham, Piauhy, Siara, Rio- 
Grande-do-Norte, Parahyba ; Pernambuco, which includes 
Alagoas ; Seregipe-d'el-Rey, Bahia, Ilheos, Porto-Seguro, Es- 
pirito-Santo, Rio-de-Janeiro, San-Paulo, Santa-Catharina (an 
island near the coast), and Rio-Grande-do-Sul. The interior is 
included in three great divisions ; Minas-Geraes, Goias, and 
Matto-Grosso, which are subdivided into comarcas, or depart- 
ments. These provinces are but imperfectly known ; they 
abound in mines of gold, silver, and other metals, and precious 
stones, among which the diamond and topaz are conspicuous. 

The vegetable productions of this vast empire are as abun- 
dant and valuable as those of any other in the world j not only 
in medicinal plants, fruits, and dye woods, but in timber suit- 
able for all the purposes of marine architecture. * 

Rio de Janeiro, or St. Sebastians, is advantageously situated 
for an extensive commerce. The bay is one of the most safe 
and capacious in the world, affording every facility for water- 
ing vessels, and refreshing their crews, after long voyages. 
It is a rendezvous for men-of-war, and a stopping place for 
merchant-men of all nations trading to the Pacific. 

Like all the colonies in the New World, Brazil was much 
restrained in her commerce by the mother country ; but since 
the immigration of the court to Rio de Janeiro, in 1807, the 
old restrictions have been removed. About 1810, a treaty was 
made with England, by which all the ports of Brazil were 
opened to British vessels and produce, on paying fifteen per 
cent, on a valuation made by their own consuls. This treaty 



* A line-of-battle sliip and a frigate, built at Bahia, were launched and sent 
to Rio Janeiro in 1833. 



NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 67 

expired in 1825. The produce of all other nations, imported 
into Brazil, pays a duty of twenty-four per cent, on a valuation 
made by the custom-house ot the country. Thus a very con- 
siderable advantage was secured to the English ; the French 
complained (and do still) of the high estimates made of their 
goods, which frequently paid a hundred per cent, thus de- 
stroying any profit that might have accrued in their trade. 

Previous to the royal immigration, commerce was much in- 
jured by exclusive privileges, granted to certain companies. 
Salt, for example, was a monopoly which bore heavily upon 
trade, being indispensable in the preservation of hides, and salt- 
ed and jerked beef, which were sent from the interior under the 
name of " carnas do sertaon." The laboring classes in nearly 
every part of South America live almost exclusively upon 
jerked beef, which is prepared by cutting the meat into rib- 
bon-like pieces and drying them in the sun, with a small addi- 
tion of salt, or by steeping them in a strong pickle for twenty- 
four hours. The heat of the climate precludes the salting of 
beef in large pieces or joints. 

The province of Rio-Grande-do-Sul, which enjoys a most 
temperate climate, produces a great number of hides, and quan- 
tities of the " carnas do sertaon," or meats from the interior, 
sufficient for home consumption, and even for exportation ; of 
these " carnas" the black population consume great quantities 
— in fact, it is the only animal food they eat. 

The province of St. Paul, celebrated for the courage of its 
inhabitants and the numerous exploring expeditions which have 
sallied from it for the interior, yields wheat, rye, maize or 
Indian corn, manioc, and potato ; and lately the vine begins 
to flourish in its genial climate. The Palma Christi grows in 
such abundance, that castor oil is burned in lamps, instead of 
spermaceti. Coarse cottons are exported j their manufacture 
.promises to improve. 

Saint Catherine, an island on the coast, near the tropic, yields 
■coffee and rice of a superior quality ; and Mr. Langsdorf states* 
4:hat indigo, pepper, vanilla, balsam copaiba, and several other 

* Voyage a I'ile Sainte Catherine^ 



68 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

similar articles can be gi'own without much labor or attention. 
Lately very good cheese has been made and exported to the 
main. The forests of St. Catherine produce several excellent 
species of wood. 

Rio Janeiro, besides possessing a fertile soil, remarkably 
well adapted to the cultivation of coffee, which is rapidly in- 
creasing, is the focus of industry and trade, from which im- 
provements of all kinds spread in every direction over Brazil. 
The flourishing state of the spice trees in the botanic garden 
near the city, promises that their cultivation may be extended 
in the province, and if not sufficiently productive for exporta- 
tion, will at least supply the demand for home consumption. 

Minas-Geraes, besides the major part of the productions 
common to the southern provinces of Spain and Portugal, yields 
gold, diamonds, and precious stones. Wheat and Indian corn 
grow in plenty, and large quantities of nitre are obtained from 
the mines of Monte Rorigo. 

Matto-Grosso and Goias are but thinly populated. They are 
inhabited by several tribes of unsubdued Indians. The soil is 
covered with rich pasturage, forests, and several useful plants 
which are common to Peru. 

In the provinces of Espirito-Santo and Porto-Seguro, are 
found several kinds of wood suited to cabinet work and archi- 
tecture. The Ibirapitanga (Brazil wood), now so necessary 
in manufactures, and which is beginning to fail in Pernambuco, 
is met with here. 

Ilheos and its adjacent territories furnish manioc, and the 
cacao tree, though its cultivation is not extensive. 

The soil of Bahia is well adapted to the growth of sugar- 
cane; the manufacture of which is daily improving. Tobacco 
also flourishes in this province, and affords very considerable 
profits. At St. Salvador (Bahia), as well as at Rio Janeiro, 
several mechanic arts are exercised with a degree of perfection 
which would not disgrace European workmen. 

In Pernambuco and its vicinity is grown some of the finest 
cotton in South America. The Brazil wood thrives better here 
than in any other part of the empire ; very little attention is 
paid however to its propagation. 



NOTICES or BRAZIL. 69 

Siara, Parahyba, and Piauhy are less fertile than the cap- 
taincies already named. Nevertheless, its numerous flocks and ' 
herds supply a lucrative branch of trade. 

The riches of the vegetable kingdom in Maranham and Para, 
are incalculable. Cotton flourishes, the cacao tree covers the 
banks of certain rivers, several spice-trees grow spontaneously, 
and among the choice woods is that called citrin, which is re- 
served for the manufacture of the most sumptuous kind of 
moveables. All these will be sources of wealth, when the 
country becomes more densely populated. 

Besides the products already named, indigo grows in several 
parts of Brazil, and the cochineal was formerly cultivated in 
the neighborhood of Rio Janeiro. With all these advantages, 
added to a little more industry and a greater population, Brazil 
might soon rank herself amongst the richest and most powerful 
nations on earth. 

Finally, the southern provinces export wheat, hides, horn, 
hair, and tallow ; the middle, gold and precious stones ; and the 
northern, cotton, coffee, sugar, tobacco, and Brazil wood. The 
quantities of the staple articles exported annually have been 
estimated at one hundred thousand cases of sugar, of fifteen 
quintals (128 lb.) each; a hundred and fifty thousand bales of 
cotton, and between twelve and thirteen millions of pounds of 
coffee ! The imports are chiefly wines, brandy, and oil, from 
Portugal ; dry goods and hardware from England ; and flour, 
salted provisions, naval stores, and household furniture, from 
the United States. 

The population of Brazil, according to the latest census, in 
1819, is as follows; 



Whites, 


843,000 


Indians, 


259,400 


Free castes. 


426,000 


Slave do. 


200,000 


Free blacks, 


159,500 


Black slaves. 


1,728,000 


Total, 


3,615,900 



70 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Notwithstanding the numerous exploring expeditions of the 
Paulists, the discovery of those treasures which have given ce- 
lebrity to the district where they are found, is owing to chance. 
Though they performed many journeys in search of precious 
stones, the Brazilians were for a long time ignorant that they 
possessed extensive mines of diamonds. In 1789, a certain 
Fonseca Lobo found the first stones of this kind, and handed 
them to a workman, who, having been at Goa, at once per- 
ceived their value. According to other authorities, some of 
them were carried to the governor of Villa-do-Principe, by 
whom they were used for a long time as counters. About the 
same time, some of them came into the possession of the Dutch 
minister at Lisbon, who sent them to Amsterdam and ascer- 
tained their value. A treaty was immediately concluded be- 
tween Holland and the Portuguese government, for all the 
precious stones found in the district of Serro-do-Frio. The mas- 
ters of Brazil, not discovering till too late their disadvantage in 
this arrangement, saw, for several years, the wealth which 
should have been their own, pass into the possession of rivals. 
When it again returned to them in 1772, these stones had lost 
much of their value in Europe. 

The diamond district is known by the name of Serro-do- 
Frio ; it extends sixteen leagues from north to south, and eight 
from east to west. It is surrounded by craggy mountains, as if 
nature had been at some pains to conceal her treasures from 
man ! Every possible precaution is taken to prevent the inha- 
bitants from carrying the diamonds, which are found in the 
auriferous sands, beyond this natural wall ; all the outlets are 
strictly guarded, and any person detected in breaking the law 
is most severely punished. Offenders were formerly sent to 
the coast of Angola, which punishment was looked upon by 
many as severe as death itself. 

It must not be supposed that diamonds are procured without 
great labor. They are sometimes found on the surface of the 
earth ; but it is not unfrequently necessary to turn the course 
of rivers, to obtain even a small quantity. Until the present 
period, the river Jiquitihonha has furnished most of this kind 
of wealth. Large masses of that species of flint, known in the 



NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 71 

country by the name of <' cascalhao,'' are found in it, which 
are submitted to a lavatory process, in such a way as to prevent 
every opportunity of fraud. The diamond is almost always en- 
veloped in a ferruginous crust; therefore, long practice is ne- 
cessary to enable persons to distinguish them from the flints 
among which they are imbedded. 

Nor are they procured without expense. It is calculated that 
every diamond obtained by the government, costs about eight 
dollars the carat ! Though more than a thousand ounces of 
diamonds have crossed the Atlantic, since the discovery of the 
mines, the whole produce of Tejuco has not been put in circu- 
lation ; because this would be a sure means of reducing the va- 
lue of a precious stone, which, unlike others, has only an arbi- 
trary price. The same policy has forbid the opening of the 
mines of Goias and Matto-Grosso, which are guarded by the 
government from the incursions of adventurers. 

At the time of the discovery of the famous diamond of the 
Portuguese crown, South America was so tranquil, that it is 
looked upon as an important event. It was found in the brook 
of Abayt6, by three malefactors who had been banished, and 
carried to the governor of mines by an ecclesiastic. Its size 
was so enormous, that repeated assays were made, before they 
were convinced of its being in reality a diamond. It was then 
sent to Lisbon, where it excited universal astonishment, and 
procured the pardon of the criminals. Afterwards, an explor- 
ing station was fixed on the banks of the Abayte, but without 
success ; the diamonds found were of little value, and scarcely 
defrayed the expense of search.* 

* Dennis. Histoire du Bresil. 



72 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Departure — Voyage round Cape Horn — Cape Pigeons. 

Two weeks were happily spent at Rio, which will be long 
remembered by the writer, and many of his companions, who 
shared the elegant hospitalities of our countrymen and others 
there. To Mr. Brown, our Charge d'Affaires, and Mr. Wright, 
our Consul, we were indebted for many civilities, and great 
kindness. 

At daylight, on the 10th of September, 1831, being ready 
for sea, we got underway, with a light land breeze, and " fan- 
ned" out of the magnificently picturesque harbor of Rio Ja- 
neiro, and again tossed on the Atlantic, towards the boisterous 
regions ruled by the Cape Spirit ! 

** Farewell to the land where the clouds love to rest, 

Like the shroud of the dead on the mountain's cold breast ; 
To the cataract's roar, where the eagles reply. 
And the lake her lone bosom expands to the sky !" 

Before sunset. Cape Frio was lost sight of, and we only 
thought of the storms we might encounter in passing into " Le 
Grand Ocean," as the French most emphatically term the 
Pacific. 

Cape Horn appears to be truly the patria nimborum. Very 
few days of the year, summer or winter, are cloudless ; they 
are all the same, cold and stormy. I have passed it four times ; 
once in summer, once in winter, once in spring, and once in 
the autumn. In all these passages, the thermometer sank as 
low as 32° F., and was, on no one day, above fifty. I have 
conversed with sealers, who have spent whole years on the 
cape ; with whalemen, who have doubled it in every month in 
the year j with the masters of merchant vessels, trading to the 
Pacific j and they all concur in giving a stormy character to 
this region. I have also examined the log-books of many ves- 



CAPE HORN. 73 

sels, and have found them to agree, very generally, upon this 
subject. The journals of voyagers, particularly of the earlier 
navigators, give most fearful accounts of the tempests and dis- 
asters, generally encountered in passing from the Atlantic to 
the Pacific Ocean. And if shipwreck, in our time, be less fre- 
quent than in the earlier ages, it must be attributed to the great 
improvements in marine architecture, seamanship, and naviga- 
tion, and not to any amelioration of the climate of the Cape, 
and its vicinity. For we find, that a distinguished naval com- 
mander, who visited the Pacific nearly twenty years since, 
holds the following language : " The passage round Cape Horn, 
from the eastward, I assert, from my own experience, is 
the most dangerous, most difficult, and attended with more 
hardships, than that of the same distance in any other part of 
the world;"* 

Of the very many merchant vessels, annually doubling Cape 
Horn, very few have been lost. The number that yearly pass 
the Cape, may be estimated at three hundred, yet so far as I 
have been able to learn, shipwrecks and total losses have not 
averaged one a year. 

The principal diiBEIculties of this navigation, arise from the 
constant prevalence of the winds from the westward, with but 
little variation. Vessels bound to the Pacific, have to contend 
with these winds, which are accompanied with cold, cutting 
rains, snow, hail, and sleet; and their crews are exhausted, 
more by the continuance than by the severity of the weather. 
Such was our own case, in the passage of 1831, and that of 
several merchant vessels, with whose officers I have conversed. 

The usual route pursued, going from the Atlantic to the Pa- 
cific Ocean, is to pass between the Falkland Islands and the 
main, and draw round the land as much as the prevailing winds 
will permit. Vessels always, if possible, « make the land" of 
the Cape, that is, approach near enough to see it, and then hold 
their way westward, until they reach the meridian of eighty 
or eighty-five degrees of west longitude, before attempting to 

* Porter^s Journal, vol. i. p. 82. See also, th^e Voyages of La Perouse, Lord 
Anson, Basil Hall, Frezier, &c. 
10 



74 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

steer to the northward. If successful in gaining that meridian^ 
without being driven far to the southward, the passage is gene- 
rally short ; — the voyage from the latitude of 40° S., in the At- 
lantic, to Valparaiso, is made in from thirty to thirty -five days. 
It frequently happens, however, that vessels are driven as 
far as 63°, and even 64° south, where, if to the eastward of the 
meridian of Cape Horn, they meet with icebergs, and suiSer 
severely from the cold. Vessels have been, occasionally, forty, 
fifty, sixty, and in some instances, seventy days, contending 
with wind and storms, before being able to get to the west- 
ward, when " hugging the land ;" while, at the very same pe- 
riod, the same region has been passed by others, in from fif- 
teen to twenty days, by pursuing the southern route. The com- 
bined experience of whalemen and sealers, goes to establish, 
that, in high southern latitudes, the winds prevail from the 
eastward during a great part of the year, which is directly con- 
trary to what is true as respects the direction of the winds in 
the vicinity of the land. In fact, it seems that the winds in 
this part of the world, blow comparatively in narrow veins ; 
and it has been remarked by the most experienced navigators, 
that gales do not blow home to the land. 

It is the opinion of the most intelligent seamen, that vessels 
should not pass through Straits La Mair ; that they should keep 
close in to the land, and not go south of 57° S., but beat be- 
tween that parallel and the land, until they may reach the me- 
ridian of 85° west longitude, before attempting to get to the 
northward. Though the wind blows generally from the west- 
ward, varying from south, south-west, to north, north-west, it 
occasionally comes from the eastward. Of three vessels that 
doubled Cape Horn, in October 1831, the first was thirty-one 
days, from Lat. 45° 40' S. Long. 58° 30' W. in the Atlantic, to 
Lat. 34° 30' S. Long. 79° 15' W. in the Pacific. She reached 
59° 31' S. Her log-book does not show that she had the wind 
from the eastward at any one time ; it varied from south to 
north, north-west. The second vessel was thirty days from 
Lat. 40° 21' S. Long. 54° 5' W. in the Atlantic, to Lat. 30° 46' 
S. Long. 73° 30' W. in the Pacific. She passed through Straits 
La Mair, and went as far as 57° 54' S. She had an easterly 



CAPE HORN. 75 

wind for several days. The third, was twenty-nine days from 
Lat 50° 48' S. Long. 61° W. in the Atlantic, to Lat. 45° 5'S. 
Long. 80° 17' W. She reached as far as 59° 7' south latitude. 
This vessel experienced some heavy gales, but had the advan- 
tage of easterly winds for several days. 

The United States Ship Brandywine doubled Cape Horn in 
December 1826. She was thirty-seven days from Rio de Ja- 
neiro to Valparaiso, and went as far as 58° S. The United 
States Ship Guerriere doubled the Cape in May 1829. She 
went as far as 58° 37' south, and had very little easterly wind. 
She was sixty days from Rio de Janeiro to Valparaiso. The 
United States Ship Falmouth doubled the Cape in October 
1831. She was forty-nine days from Rio de Janeiro to Valpa- 
raiso, and went as far as 62° 5' south latitude. 

The commander of an English whale ship, who has doubled 
the Cape eighteen times, (four times in the month of March, 
when he found the wind prevailing from the eastward) recom- 
mends the month of March to enter the Pacific, and November 
to return. 

The master of an American merchant ship, who has doubled 
the Cape eight times, thinks it advisable, in case of strong head 
winds, "to lay to" under Staten Land, and there wait for a 
favorable opportunity. 

From all we can learn, it seems advisable not to pass through 
the Straits La Mair ; to keep close in with the land, say within 
twenty or thirty miles ; not to go south of 57° ; and not to at- 
tempt to decrease the latitude, until in the meridian of 85° W., 
no matter how promising the appearances of the weather may 
be. The reasons given for this course are ; first, though the 
winds be mostly from the westward, they are not constantly 
from that quarter ; second, that the gales are not so severe near 
the land, and do not blow home ; third, that there are no cur- 
rents setting on shore ; and fourth, by not being too far south, 
advantage may be taken of a favorable wind, that, in a few 
hours, might carry the vessel beyond the parallel of the Cape, 
which would be unavailing, if the ship should be as far as 63^ 
S. — as has been recommended — because these winds do not al- 
ways last long enough to carry a vessel many hundred miles. 



76 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

Within a few years, another passage has been successfully 
tried by several vessels ; that which originally led to the Pa- 
cific — the Straits of Magellan. From their entrance on the At- 
lantic, to Cape Pillar, on the Pacific, is estimated to be from 
three to four hundred miles. The breadth varies from eight to 
twenty miles. The water is deep, the anchorage good, the 
surface generally smooth, and both its coasts abound in safe and 
convenient harbors, which may always be gained seasonably 
by vessels passing through the straits. About a year since, an 
American barque, drawing more than fifteen feet water, passed 
through in four days ; the master informed us that he encoun- 
tered no difficulty, of any kind whatever. Sealers, who fre- 
quent that part of the world, are quite familiar with the navi- 
gation, and do not hesitate between it and going round the 
Cape. One of H. B. M. vessels of war, properly equipped for 
the purpose, is now engaged in surveying the Straits of Ma- 
gellan, and it is to be hoped, that the report of her commander 
will do much to dispel the objections to taking that route to 
the Pacific. 

This subject is one which merits the attention of navigators ; 
and if each one would forward an extract from his log-book, to 
some of the public journals, with such observations as might 
suggest themselves, it might be soon settled.* The Sailor's 
Magazine would, no doubt, publish any thing that might have 
a tendency to clear this matter from the uncertainty at present 
connected with it. It is to be hoped, that navy officers, cruising 
in the Pacific, will not be backward in collecting and forward- 
ing information upon the subject, to the editor of the "Mili- 
tary and Naval Magazine," which ought to be cherished by 
the talent and patronage of both branches of the service. 

From latitude 22'^ south, in the Atlantic, our ship was fol- 
lowed to Valparaiso by numbers of petrels, or Cape pigeons. 
They were of two kinds, the spotted and the silvery. The first 
is rather larger than the domestic pigeon, but from the thick- 
ness of its plumage, weighs much less. The feet are three toed 

• SiHiman's Journal for April, 1834, contains an interesting article on this 
subject, by M. F. Maury, of the United Spates Navy. 



CAPE HORN. 77 

and webbed ; the eyes are black ; the bill hooked, with one 
exterior nostril ; tail short. The breast is beautifully white, 
and the back, wings, and tail, spotted black and white ; and 
from that circumstance, Frezier says, the sailors called them 
damiers, or draught-boards.* Its motions are graceful. It sails 
about the stern of vessels at sea, sometimes balancing itself 
upon the wing, and again dropping gently to the surface, to 
pick up any crumbs that may have been thrown overboard, 
and then mounts upon its untiring course. When caught, as 
many were with hook and line trailed over the stern, it is un- 
able to rise from the deck, and attempts to defend itself by 
ejecting the contents of the stomach, and a pure yellow oil of 
a fishy odor. 

The silver variety is of about the same size. The breast is a 
brilliant white, and the back, wings, and tail, are of a light 
leaden hue, but of silvery brightness ; in other respects it does 
not differ very much from the first. 

On the 8th of October, though nearly four hundred miles 
from land, (the latitude being 61° 49' S., and the longitude 
74° 50' W.) the birds still followed us. Besides the pigeons, 
numbers of albatross were caught at the stern, and afforded 
fine sport to many persons on board. On the ninth, the wind 
changed from west to south-west by west, and all the birds 
left us, but returned again on the eleventh, when the wind 
hauled to the northward and westward, and remained with us 
till we arrived at Valparaiso. The largest albatross caught, 
measured seven feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the 
other. 

On the 18th, the latitude was 50° 28* S., and the longitude 
79° 53' 15" W., and we all indulged in the hope that we had 
passed all the perils and tedium of the Cape ; for the long, 
deep blue swell, which distinguishes the Pacific from the At- 
lantic, was now remarked by every body ; but we had not yet 
passed " where Chiloe's tempests sweep," and were therefore 
disappointed. On the 19th the barometer sunk to 28.75 inches, 
and we soon after had a fresh gale, that rendered it prudent to 

* Frezier : Voyage to the South Sea. London. 1717. 



78 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

"lie to under a close reefed main topsail." On the 20th we 
furled the main topsail, and laid to under " the fore and aft 
sails," for the purpose of trying the qualities of the ship, more 
than from necessity, and it was not till the 24th, that we got a 
fine breeze from the west. Our position was, that day, 42° 41' 
south latitude, and 77° 45' west longitude. From that time the 
weather remained pleasant, and the winds favorable, till we 
arrived at Valparaiso. 



NOTICES OF CHILE 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 



CHAPTER I. 



Arrival at Valparaiso — Bay — Appearance of the place — Landing — Town- 
Market — Scenes in the street — Costume — Oracidn — Plaza — Cries — Beggars. 

At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 29th of October, 
1831, after a passage of forty-nine days from Rio de Janeiro, 
and having sailed 12,548 miles from New York, we anchored 
in the bay of Valparaiso. 

Those who, on the voyage to the " Vale of Paradise," had 
anticipated their experience, and formed a picture of the 
place in their imaginations, from written descriptions, found 
their hearts sink with disappointment at the first glance. *'Is 
this the lauded « Vale of Paradise !' Is this the spot we have 
heard of so often on our voyage, as the scene of pleasure!" 
exclaimed some ; *' I feel no inclination to go ashore at such a 
looking place. It resembles a brick-kiln more than a town! If 
the lee coast be no better than this, I have seen enough of the 
Pacific." Such were the remarks of those who had never 
twirled in the waltz with the fair Chil6nas, nor experienced 
the hospitality of a Chile reception. Yet they have all since 
leariied, that social pleasures may be totally independent of 
locality and scenery — whatever may be their influence upon 
the imagination and the mind. 

On approaching the coast, the land is seen, in clear weather, 
above the clouds, capped with snow, even before the line of 
11 



82 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIPIC, 

coast is perceived above the horizon. At sunrise, the chain of 
the gigantic Cordilleras is seen, many miles at sea, in their 
natural and desolate grandeur. Soon after the sun rises, the 
land is shrouded by a curtain of mist, and it often happens, that 
fifty or sixty miles are passed over, before the high land of the 
coast is descried. As it is approached, we find it rocky, stand- 
ing up, broken and wild, from the very margin of the ocean. 
Still closer, its barrenness proclaims itself j and few are not 
disappointed, when they discover, in midsummer, that vege- 
tation is parched and dry. In midwinter, which is the rainy 
season, all nature is gay ; the hills are green ; the air is soft 
and pleasant, and the atmosphere remarkably clear. Those who 
arrive at this period are always delighted. Thus it was, in the 
month of June, that a late traveller saw the trees and bushes 
which do not exist ; but which his happy fancy created from 
the tall cactus, that stands as an indication of the soil's sterility. 
In October, when the rains have ceased, and their influence on 
the wild vegetation is no longer felt, as is the case now, the 
high hills of Valparaiso are barren, red, and bare ; scarce a bush 
is seen, and nothing but the "cardon" (cactus) outlives the 
drying winds of summer. These facts go far to reconcile the 
discrepancies of various descriptions. Arrive in whatever 
month they may, those who have sojourned here a few days, 
seldom rejoice to leave j and after a few months on the northern 
coast, return with renewed pleasure. 

This bay, which opens to the north, is bounded by a land 
line resembling the curve of a sickle, the longer part of which 
is to the north, and is ultimately lost in the coast j the shorter 
curve terminates in what is called Valparaiso point. From it, 
across the mouth of the bay, to the northern point, called Con- 
con, is nine miles. The anchorage is in the south-western part 
of the bay. In the shorter curve, or opposite to the anchorage, 
is sheltered under the high land, " La ciuddd y el puerto de 
Valparaiso." Scarcely allowing room for a single street along 
the beach, the hills rise perpendicularly a hundred and fifty 
feet, then fall back and continue to rise at an angle of about 
twenty-five degrees. On their very summit is erected a signal 
staff, or telegraph, which stands twa thousand feet above the 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 83 

sea.* The high land is continuous entirely round the bay, but 
is thrown into waves or undulations ; and, in several places, is 
broken into deep glens or gorges, called "quebridas," which 
embouche close to the water's edge. 

In front of the anchorage is a high bluflf, or block of land, 
formed by a " quebrMa" running on either side of it, called 
Monte A16gre, and sometimes reproachfully, " Cerro de los 
Judeos," or Jews' Hill. Upon it are built several fine dwell- 
ings, occupied by English and American residents, who live 
there, almost entirely apart from the natives, forming a sort of 
foreign colony. The quebrida on the right, is the "Quebrdda 
de San Augustin ;" between it and the next — " Quebrdda de 
San Francisco" — are the ruins of the former castle and gover- 
nor's house, which were shaken down by the severe earth- 
quake of November, 1822.t Farther to the right, the high 
land is divided by quebrddas into several bluffs, called by En- 
glish and American sailors, "the fore, main, and mizen tops." 
To the left of Monte A16gre, are the Catholic and Protestant 
burial grounds, separated by a passage twenty feet wide ; and 
not far from them, is the powder magazine. A little beyond 
this point, the high land begins to recede, leaving a broad tri- 
angular plain, upon which is built that part of the town called 
the " Almendrdl," or Almond Grove. The name led the tra- 
veller before alluded to, into a supposition that the groves seen 
from the anchorage are of almond trees, but there are not more 
than two trees of the kind in the place. What he saw, are the 
<' Oliv^res," or plantations of olive trees, of which there are 
five or six in different parts of this section of the town. At the 
end, or bottom of the Almendrdl, is seen the road to Santiago, 
mounting in a zigzag line over the hills, or ** Altos de Valpa- 
raiso.'' At the foot of the " altos" is a small brook, nearly dry 
in summer, but which in winter swells to a large stream, almost 
worthy the name of river. 

To the northward and eastward, and about three miles from 



* Porter's Journal. 

f For an account of that earthquake, see Miers' Travels in Chile and Lti 
Plata. London, 1826. 



84 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the bottom of the Altnendrdl, is a small fort, under the guns of 
which, in 1814, the United States Ship Essex was captured by 
the British, after a gallant resistance of a superior force, and 
under other unequal circumstances.* In the same direction, the 
peak of Aconcdgua, the bell of Quillota, and the great chain of 
the Cordilleras, crowned with perpetual snow, close this pic- 
ture of hills and mountains. 

" Hill peeps o'er hill, and Alps on Alps arise." 

At this season, (October,) the number of launches, pulling 
"to and fro," loading and unloading every variety of craft, under 
almost every flag, announces the activity of trade. Close in to 
the western shore, are moored two or three hulks, which formed 
a part of the expedition to Peru under San Martin, which struck 
the fatal blow to Spanish power on this side of the Andes. The 
only vessel of the Chilian Navy, now kept in commission, is a 
beautiful brig of war ; in fact the only one that has any preten- 
sions to efficiency. The anchorage is considered good ; though, 
at certain seasons, it is dangerous. In winter, which is from 
the middle of May to the end of August, north winds prevail, 
and throw into the bay a swell so heavy, that vessels some- 
times snap their cables, and are driven on shore, where they 
soon beat to pieces. The winter is also the rainy season, if a 
dozen rainy days, in the course of that time, can be so called. 
The most implicit reliance is placed upon the indications of 
changes in the weather, afforded by the barometer ; so soon as 
it begins to fall, even when the surface of the mercury becomes 
concave, north wind and rain may be most confidently expect- 
ed ; particularly, if the land to the northward be distinctly 
visible. During the rest of the year, the wind prevails from 
the southward, and blows at times so strongly that ships drag 
to sea, from the anchoring ground being a declivity ; — the same 
winds bring with them such quantities of dust, that the eyes 
of people walking the streets suffer severely. 

Previous to 1830, the landing was upon the sand beach. In 

• Porter's Journal. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 85 

that year a very commodious jetty was built, under the di- 
rection of an officer of the Chilian Navy, who is by birth 
and education an American. In less than a year after it was 
finished, those piles which were not defended by copper, were 
completely reduced to a honeycomb state, by a curious little 
animal, called an auger worm, {terrido navalis,) from the re- 
semblance its head bears to the common auger. It is small, 
white, and almost gelatinous, with the exception of the head, 
which is armed with two moveable plates of shell, by which, 
it is presumed, the animal perforates the wood. As it advances 
in the work of destruction, it lengthens, and increases in size, 
constantly enlarging the cell, in proportion to the demand for 
accommodation. The cell is lined with a calcareous coating, 
(the secretion of the animal) similar to the shells of the mol- 
luscous tribes. The worm sometimes attains several feet in 
length, and an inch in diameter. From the havoc made on the 
jetty, it may be easily inferred what would be the fate of a 
vessel, not defended by copper, were she to remain long in 
this port. 

The town of Valparaiso is divided into the Port and Almen- 
drdl. The port consists of one irregular street, and the quebrd,- 
das, which are built in, wherever a site for a house is possibly 
attainable. "Ranchos," or huts, are perched about on the hill 
sides, like great birds' nests, wherever a resting place can be 
scooped out. The, want of level land is a great drawback upon 
the advancement of this place ; nevertheless, it improves more 
rapidly than any other city on this side of Cape Horn. Most 
of the houses on the main street, are good two story buildings, 
occupied on the ground floor by stores and warerooms. In the 
eastern part of the Port, and in the Almendrdl, the houses are 
only one story high. They are all built of "adobes," or sun- 
dried bricks, white-washed, and roofed with, red tiles. 

The great square or plaza is small. Lately, it has been much 
improved by being paved, and by the erection of a " Cabildo," 
or government house, on one side of it. During the early part 
of the day, the plaza is filled with trunks made of hide, full of 
fruit, vegetables, and baskets of poultry. The market is per- 
haps the best, and is certainly the cheapest on the coast. Be- 



86 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

yond the plaza, is a second market-place, formed of booths, 
ranged in the form of a hollow square, where are sold butcher's 
meats, as well as vegetables and fruits. The native method of 
butchering, is very different from ours ; instead of cutting the 
animal into joints and pieces, the large muscles are dissected 
out separately, which is well adapted to the ways of Chilian 
cookery. Butcher's meat is also hawked about the town on 
jackasses, which generally excites disgust in the stranger, both 
from the dry, dirty appearance of the meat, and the savage, 
bloody look of the butcher, who carries a large knife in the 
hand, as he slowly follows the ass, crying, in a drawling tone, 
<'carne de vaca," — or "came carnero," beef, or mutton. 
There are one or two English butchers, who supply the foreign 
residents, and foreign vessels visiting the place. Poultry and 
game are plenty, and sold at reasonable prices. In their differ- 
ent seasons, varieties of fruits and vegetables, in abundance, 
are brought to market from the neighboring valleys of Quillota, 
Milapilla, and Casablanca. The principal fruits are, grapes, 
oranges, (not very good), apples, pears, peaches, (which have 
but little flavor,) plums, apricots, nectarins, lemons, (both 
sweet and sour) limes ; figs twice a year, the first crop being 
what are termed " brevas," and the second "higos ;" strawber- 
ries of a very large size, some of them measuring five and six 
inches in circumference, but of very inferior flavor; and excel- 
lent musk melons. The water melons, which are small, but 
very good, form a large portion of the diet of the lower classes. 
The Madeira nut, and a large species of chestnut, are very 
plenty. There is another nut, called " piilon,"* very similar 
to the chestnut in taste. The vegetables are, potatoes, yucas, 
cabbages, cauliflowers, cucumbers, radishes, pumpkins, toma- 
toes, lettuce, celery, peas, beans, &c. Neither the fruits nor 



* In Spanish, the tilde (") over the n, gives to the word in which the fi occurs, 
the same sound as if it were followed, in English, by the letter y; ih.\\9, pinon 
is pronounced piny one; niha, as if written ninya; manana, as if written 
many ana; Dona, as if written, Donya, &c. 

As I cannot take the liberty of changing the Spanish orthography, I have 
thought best to give the above explanation now, that the reader may not be 
at a loss, whenever the n occurs in the course of this work. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 87 

vegetables, owing to some peculiarity of soil, possess the same 
excellence of flavor as those of Europe and the United States. 
The best are the grapes and figs. The fruit trees are never 
grafted. It is but reasonable to suppose that greater care in 
their cultivation would very much improve the taste and size 
of the fruits. 

Besides all the good things of the land mentioned, the bay 
and its neighboring coasts furnish the market with a variety of 
fine fish. Many of the molluscous animals, taken on the rocks, 
are sold in the plaza, and are eaten by the lower classes. 
Amongst them are several species of Chiton, called "prende- 
d&res," or squeezers, from their habit of rolling themselves up 
very strongly, when taken from the rocks ; one or two of Ba- 
lanusy or barnacle; a large species of Donax; several of the 
Fissurella and Patella; and one which is styled by Blainville, 
Choncholepas Peruvianus. 

From the greater part of the business being transacted within 
a small space, the street, in the morning, presents a very lively 
scene. It was formerly almost impassable, from the collecting 
together of a great number of ox-carts, used for bringing to 
market the produce of Santiago and the surrounding country. 
A decree, not long since issued, ordered that light carts should 
be substituted for the heavy ones ; but the evil is not removed, 
for those now in use are nearly as large as the old " carr6tas." 
Besides, troops of laden mules and jackasses are constantly 
passing and repassing; and half of the busy world of Valpa- 
raiso being constantly on horseback, renders it necessary to be 
always on the qui vive while walking the street. 

In front of the landing and jetty is the custom house, lately 
erected, and well adapted to the purposes for which it was in- 
tended; and to the left are the "capitania," or captain of the 
port's office, and the <«resguardo," a department of the cus- 
tom house. There is always a crowd of boatmen sauntering 
about this spot, ready to make themselves useful when there is 
any prospect of remuneration. They are stout, brawny, ath- 
letic men,, with good humored faces of a light olive complexion ; 
from foreign sailors they have acquired English enough to 
make themselves understood, and to annoy every stranger who 



8S THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

passes. The moment an Englishman or an American comes 
in sight, a half dozen of these men run forward, calling, " you 
want hoty — me hoty very fine," at the same time rolling up 
the legs of their trowsers to be in readiness to launch one of 
the whale boats from the row constantly drawn up on the 
beach to the right of the jetty. If the stranger maintain silence, 
the boatmen dance down before him, looking inquisitively in 
his face, and if they discover he really wishes to embark, they 
rush, each to his respective boat, and holding up one hand, to 
attract attention, vociferate or cry in an animated tone, " aqui, 
mi patron — aqui, me boty.^' If the "patron" now declare 
that he does not intend to go afloat, the whole crowd set up a 
good natured shout at the expense of their disappointed bro- 
thers. When strangers land, the boatmen are the first to wel- 
come them with smiling faces, and to extend an arm to assist 
them on shore, without afterwards expecting a reward for this 
natural sort of politeness. 

Next to the busy appearance of the street and the landing, 
the individuals of the picture attract attention. The " agua- 
dores" and their donkeys, that supply every family with water 
from springs in the difierent quebrddas, stand forth conspicuous 
in the eyes of the newly arrived North American. The don- 
key carries two small barrels or kegs, suspended one on either 
side, in a wooden frame adapted to the purpose ; and the 
*' aguad6r" sits en croupe, swinging his bare legs, first one and 
then the other, as if spurring. He wears a coarse cone shaped 
hat drawn well over his face, a shirt with sleeves rolled up 
above the elbow, a leather apron, something like that of a black- 
smith, and loose trowsers reaching just below the knee. He 
carries a pole about six feet long, armed with an iron curve or 
hook before him, lying crosswise. A small tinkling bell, at- 
tached to the saddle, gives notice of his approach. These men, 
apparently the happiest and steadiest fellows in the world, 
manifest a sort of indifierence or nonchalance for every thing 
around them ; having learned a lesson of patience from the ani- 
mal they drive, they are never in haste, nor can they be in- 
duced to move out of their accustomed pace. When the wa- 
ter-carrier stops, and removes one of the barrels, to prevent 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 8& 

the other from dragging the saddle round, he props it with the 
pole which he carries for that purpose. Water is worth a real 
(twelve and a half cents) the "cargo" or load. 

The muleteers also wear cone-shaped straw hats, "ponchos/' 
breeches that extend below the knee, " botas" or leggings, and 
hide sandals, with great spurs, the rowels of which are fre- 
quently three and even four inches in diameter. The "pon- 
cho" is an oblong piece of cloth, from six to ten feet long, and 
from three to five broad, fringed at the edges, with a slit in the 
centre, (bound with ribbon), through which the head is passed, 
leaving the ends to fall down in careless drapery before and 
behind, so as to conceal the upper part of the figure. When 
the poncho becomes toa warm, or otherwise inconvenient, it 
is knotted round the waist, discovering that the body and 
shoulders are clothed in a coarse, dark colored, woollen shirt 
or frock, with short sleeves. The poncho is of every variety 
of color; sometimes plain, and sometimes ornamented with 
stripes of flowers and fancy patterns in lively colors. This 
garment is universally worn by all classes when riding on 
horseback; its cost varies, according.to the material of which 
it is made, from four to a hundred dollars; The legs are de- 
fended by a pair of woollen leggings, of a dark color, striped 
or plain, extending from the foot half way up the thigh, and 
secured below the knee by a tasselled garter, giving to the 
whole figure a striking and unique appearance. The " betas," 
like the poncho, are worn by all classes when on horseback. 

Such is the general costume of the " arrieros" and " peones" 
— muleteers and laborers — varying only in the fineness of the 
texture, according to the wearer's purse. The spurs of the 
poorest class are of iron ; but the ambition of every man in 
Chile is to obtain, next to a fine horse, a pair of huge silver 
spurs. The mules are covered on either side with thick pads 
of unsheared sheep skins, upon which the load is lashed by 
thongs or ropes of hide. That he may stand quiet, when laden 
or unladen, the muleteer blindfolds the animal by throwing 
the poncho over his eyes. It is curious to see laden males 
coming in from the country. They are strung together, one 
behind the other, by a hide rope or halter, leading from the 
12 



90 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

tail of the one to the neck of the other, in succession, with a 
space of about ten feet between them. 

The costume of gentlemen, when attending to business, ge- 
nerally consists of a short jacket of white or blue cloth, ac- 
cording to the season, and a felt, or straw hat, of Manila or 
Guayaquil manufacture, not differing, in other respects, from 
that of the United States. The young men of fortune follow 
the fashions given to them by French or English tailors. 

The dress of the ladies, when walking, is the same as that 
termed in the United States an evening dress. They wear 
neither hats nor bonnets, but instead, ornament the hair, which 
they know how to arrange in excellent taste, with two or 
three natural flowers. The parasol affords protection to their 
complexion, when it requires any, for they seldom walk till 
the sun has in a degree lost his power. When they go to 
church — which they do every morning at sunrise — they dress 
in black, with a veil or mantilla over the head. 

Reader, be kind enough to picture to yourself a busy crowd, 
composed of the various figures I have attempted to sketch ; 
moving through a narrow street in different directions. The 
"aguador" threading along among troops of mules and carts ; 
merchants discussing the quality and price of goods ; their 
clerks hurrying to and from the custom-house ; the *'guaso" 
or countryman, with hat, poncho, botas, and spurs, seated in 
his comfortable saddle, with toes thrust into the sides of huge 
blocks of wood, that answer the place of stirrups, guiding his 
docile animal ; ladies in their walking dress, with parasol, and 
followed by little Indian servants, from Arauco ; the "dul- 
c6ro," or vender of sweetmeats, crying " dulces ;'' " merca- 
chifles," or pedlars, with loads of ribbons and trifles, praising 
in stentorian voices the cheapness of their goods ; sailors, riding 
horses that might be taken for the descendants of the famed 
"Rocinante,"* pushing and spurring on in spite of all obstacles. 



• This word is in perfect keeping with the whole of that inimitable work of 
Cervantes, Don Quixote ; it is derived from rodn, which signifies a hack horse, 
and ante, before or formerly. 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 91 

Fancy all these, and you may have an idea of Valparaiso, near 
the landing, on a week day morning. 

At four o'clock in the afternoon, the streets are almost de- 
serted. At that hour business ceases ; the natives take the 
"siesta," or afternoon nap, and foreigners go home to dine. 
At sunset the world wakes up, and the street becomes again 
animated. The chandler makes his appearance, bearing a load 
of dirty tallow candles, strung on a pole over his shoulder, 
crying «< velas de sebo" — tallow candles ; and the tinker makes 
himself heard, shouting, *'el hojalat^ro — vasinicas de hoja- 
lata mui bardtas" — the tinker, chamber utensils of tin — very 
cheap. No hour could be more appropriate for vending these 
articles, than the close of the day! Ladies and gentlemen sally 
forth at this hour, for the ''pas6o," or promenade; at this 
hour, too, is " oraci&n," — the church bell lolls, and every body 
stands silent and uncovered, while he repeats the evening 
prayer. In a few seconds the bell again strikes, and every one 
signs himself with the cross, then wishes his neighbour a good 
night. On these occasions, it is the etiquette for the eldest in 
company to be the first to say good night ; and it is sometimes 
amusing to see them dispute who shall begin ; the younger ones 
present leaving it to their seniors to make this sort of acknow- 
ledgment of age — "Diga V™*^," at last says one — "No Senor, 
diga V™"^," replies another; — "Say you" — "No Sir, say 
you!" 

During the evening the shops are lighted, and the streets are 
enlivened by parties of ladies "shopping." On Thursday 
nights, a military band serenades the governor at nine o'clock, 
and crowds of people assemble to enjoy it with him. On Satur- 
day nights the streets are particularly gay. The plaza is sprink- 
led over with flat baskets of shoes, ranged with great care, 
and lighted by a tallow candle, stuck upon their sides ; it is a 
custom of great antiquity for ladies to repair there to purchase 
shoes, for it is said, the Chilenas require a new pair every 
week. The size is ascertained by measuring them with the 
spread fingers; and perhaps experience, gained by the frequency 
of fitting themselves, is of considerable advantage. 

Even until very late at night, men are heard crying through 



92 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the street, "aceittanas" — olives ; and "picdntes" — morsels of 
meat and vegetables highly spiced. Both during the day and 
night, beggars sit at the corners, with their feet drawn up be- 
neath them, their hands in an imploring posture, crying in a 
whining, nasal tone, to every passer-by, ''una lim&sna porun 
pobre, por el amor de Dios" — alms for a poor man, for God's 
sake. These appeals, however, are seldom heeded. On Satur- 
days, it is a universal custom, I believe, in all South America, 
as well as in Spain, for beggars to throng the streets, and ask 
alms in the name of their patron saints. There is scarcely a 
family, that has not a certain number of mendicants to whom 
it gives something on Saturdays, but refuses charity to all others, 
and to them also on all other days. It is not uncommon to meet 
old men on horseback, beseeching charity in the most piteous 
tones; — "un medioclto por amor de Dios" — a medio (6^ 
cents) for the love of God. The diminutive, cito, is added, to 
lessen in appearance the amount of the gratuity asked. I am 
not aware how much this custom bears upon the proverb, about 
**set a beggar on horseback," &c., or whether it has, in fact, 
any truth in Chile. 



CHAPTER II. 



Society — Introduction to a Family — Costume — Furniture — Mat£ — Singing — 
Cigars — Presenting of Flowers — Leave-taking — Traits of Character — A day 
visit — Anecdote — Tertulia on a Sunday evening — Dancing — " El cudndo" 
— " La Perdiz" — Foreign Society. 

The conventional customs of society in Valparaiso, differ in 
many respects from those of the United States. Day visiting, 
except on Sundays, is not usual, which is the reverse with us, 
that day being set aside for the worship of the Deity. Yet, on 
becoming intimately acquainted with any family, it may be 
visited at all times, without any one thinking it improper, or 
even hazarding a conjecture as to the motive, should the calls 



NOTICES OF CHILE- 93 

fee Frequent. At sunset the ladies are generally prepared to re- 
ceive company, and expect it. The history of my first visit 
will give a better idea of the forms of society, than a simple 
rehearsal of them. 

I followed a friend into a drawing room, furnished in the 
Chile fashion, with tables, mirrors, a sofa, a piano, and a great 
number of chairs, ranged in two rows facing each other, on that 
side of the room where the sofa stood. A "petdte," or thick straw 
mat, covered the floor, and a strip of carpet was laid only under 
the chairs on one side of the room. It was twilight, and can- 
dles had not been yet brought. Three ladies sat upon the sofa, 
conversing, with their feet drawn up under them, h la Turque, 
while a fourth stood looking through a glass door that opened 
upon a balcony, beating one of the panes with her fingers, as if 
it had been a piano, and humming a waltz. The evening was 
cool, and the ladies were all covered with large shawls, the 
right corner being thrown over the left shoulder, so as to bury 
the chin in its folds, much after the manner that dandies wear 
the Spanish cloak. In the winter, this custom is universal ; 
then the nose and chin are hidden in the shawl, the eyes only 
being seen above the fold. During that season, having neither 
hearths nor chimneys in the house, except for the kitchen, the 
ladies keep warm by placing a "braz6ro," or copper pan of 
well burned charcoal, near the sofa, with a basket, made for 
the purpose, turned over it, upon which they rest their feet, 
or even sit. As we entered the apartment, which was high and 
airy, the ladies on the sofa ceased their conversation, and bent 
forward in formal salutation, as my conductor said, "^Como 
pasan ustedes, Senoritas ? Un Amigo!" — How do you do, 
ladies ? A friend — pointing to me as he pronounced the last 
word. The lady who was humming, curtsied and took a chair. 

"Que fresquito es la noche, Don Samuel! — the evening 
is a little cool, Don Samuel ! — ask your friend to be seated," 
said the eldest lady to my cicerone^ and then resumed the con- 
versation for a moment with the three young ladies, who were 
her daughters. I felt very much as if I were not welcome, 
from the cold reception we had received. Presently long tal- 
low candles with thick wicks were brought in, and one set 



94 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

upon each of the tables, placed under the mirrors ; this gave 
me an opportunity to survey the arrangement of the furniture 
already mentioned. A glance showed me that the three sisters 
were delicate brunettes, with fine black eyes, wearing the hair 
in two large ringlets or rather rolls on either temple, while 
that of the back of the head was folded over a very large tor- 
toise shell comb of beautiful workmanship, en Jiligrane. 
Many of the combs worn in Chile measure from eighteen 
inches to two feet around the top ! The shawls were of Canton 
crape, embroidered with flos silk, (the work of the ladies' own 
hands), and the dresses of French muslin of gay patterns. The 
only ornaments in the hair were natural roses and pinks, dis- 
posed with much taste. The expression of their countenances 
was grave, intelligent, and rather pleasing. When the lights 
were brought, the ladies on the sofa slipped their feet to the 
floor, adjusted their dresses, and Dona Juana, the mother, said, 
" ^El Senor, habla Castella.no?" — " Does the Gentleman speak 
Spanish ?" My friend replied that I did, and said to me in 
English, " now I shall leave you to make acquaintance your- 
self." 

" I Usted es recien llegado, Senor ?" — " You are recently ar- 
rived, Sir." This question was followed by several others, 
and the good lady seemed to manifest great interest in all my 
replies, expressing a hope that I would be pleased with Chile. 
<<^ Que serd la gracia de usted, Caballero ?" — " What is your 
(Christened) name, Cavalier?" asked Dona Carmencita, the 
eldest daughter. ''Francisco, para servir a usted, Seilorita," 
— "Francis, at your service, Miss," I replied. 
*' Are you fond of music, Don Francisco? 
*' Yes ! very — do you play ?" 

** A little" — then she requested her youngest sister. Dona 
Ignacita, to play ''alguna cosita," some little thing. The 
young lady obeyed the request, as if it had been a mandate, 
opened the piano, and played several waltzes, at the end of 
each of which, Don Samuel said, "mui bien, Senorita" — 
"Very well, Miss." 

She was interrupted by a female servant, (a slattern by the 
way) bringing in a tray of tea and maUy followed by a young 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 95 

Indian girl from Arauco, bearing a silver salver of cakes, &c. 
The Araucanians, when taken and instructed young, make ex- 
cellent servants ; and there is scarcely a family without one in 
its service, particularly where there are young ladies. This 
race has borne the character of fierce and warlike from the 
earliest times ; their valor and martial prowess have been cele- 
brated in an epic of thirty-seven cantos, entitled ^' La Arau- 
cana," by Don Alonzo de Ercilla y Zuniga. — Speaking of the 
country of Arauco, he says, 

•' V^nus y Aman aqui no alcanzan parte. 
Solo domina el iracundo Marte." 

The <«mat6," or, as it is familiarly called, "yerba mat6," 
{Ilex Paraguensis), is a plant of Paraguay, used in almost 
every part of South America, as a substitute for tea. It ar- 
rives in Chile from the Rio de la Plata, by the way of Cape 
Horn, or by crossing the Cordilleras, packed in bales of hide. 
It presents to the eye a greenish yellow dust, in which are 
mingled broken leaves and stems of the plant. This mate- 
rial, infused in boiling water, forms the "mate," which every 
where in Chile, previous to the revolution, was substituted 
for the more costly tea of China ; since that period, the old 
ladies only adhere to the practice, while the young ones, 
more refined in taste, prefer sipping Young Hyson or Bohea, 
from a gilt edged China tea-cup. The " yerba," with sugar 
and the outer rind of orange or lemon peel, or pieces of cin- 
namon, are placed in a globular vessel holding about a gilly 
and boiling water is poured in upon them. The vessel con- 
taining the infusion, termed "a mate," is either entirely of 
silver, or of a small gourd, banded with silver, supported by 
a stem and plate of the same metal. A silver cover, perforated 
with a hole for the passage of the "bombilla," and secured to 
the side by a chain, serves to retain the heat and aroma of the 
plant. The " bombilla" is a tube from ten to twelve inches 
long, terminated at one end by a bulb (not unlike that of a 
thermometer) pierced with many small holes 5 like " the mat6,'' 
it is silver, or consists of a cane tube with a metal bulb. 

Such is the apparatus from which the elderly Chil6nas sip, 



96 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

or rather suck their favorite beverage, at a temperature very 
little below that of boiling water. Dona Juana took " the 
mate," and after two or three sips, offered it to me, to try 
whether it were pleasant ; however willing I might have been: 
to receive the tube into my mouth, immediately after coming 
from the pouting lips of her daughters, I must confess, I felt 
some repugnance to suck the same stem with Dona Juana. 
Yet, recollecting that one of Bazil Hall's officers had given 
offence by carrying a " bombilla" for his peculiar use, I took 
"the mat6," and finding it agreeable in flavor, did not relin- 
quish it until 1 had drawn it to the dregs. Those who take 
" mate" for the first time, usually burn their lips ; and it is the 
only mistake at which ladies laugh ; in fact, a cynic could 
scarcely keep his countenance : fancy a gentleman pressing a 
hot silver tube between his lips, jerking back his head in sur- 
prise, then resorting to his handkerchief to dry his eyes, and 
while he does so, attempting to smile — the tout ensemble pro- 
duces the most whimsical expression of countenance imagi- 
nable. Two or three " mates" are generally quite sufficient to 
supply a company of eight or ten persons; for they are passed 
from mouth to mouth till all are satisfied. When the fluid is 
exhausted, " the mate" is replenished with sugar, and hot 
water from a silver kettle, usually placed in the room upon a 
small " brazero" of living coals. 

The young ladies preferred tea, and I joined in the prefer- 
ence, though I do not think mate disagreeable to the taste. 
The whole was carried out at the expiration of a few minutes. 
Mat6 drinking, or rather sipping, is fast going out of fashion, 
and in the haut ton is now seldom seen. 

Doiia Panchita, the second sister, played several marches, 
and then Dona Carmencita, upon our solicitation, took her 
seat at the instrument, ran her fingers over the keys, and ac- 
companied herself in Rossini's " Dolce ingrata patria." She 
sang with skill, and executed with much taste ; but she had the 
nasal enunciation, which is very general with all the Chil6nas 
when they sing, and which is exceedingly disagreeable to those 
unaccustomed to it. 

The music had the effect of removing, in a considerable de- 



NOTICKS OP CHILE. 97 

gree, the restraint which I felt at our reception. The first 
waltz on the piano dispelled the stiffness of conversation, which 
was afterwards carried on during the whole evening with great 
vivacity. 

When Dona Carmencita ended her song, a small silver globe 
(supported on a stem and plate, like the mat6-cup,) holding a 
single coal, was brought in, and Dofia Juana begged us to enjoy 
our cigars the same as if we were at home.—" Don Francisco, 
porque no pita usted su cig^ro ? haga usted lo mismo, como en 
su misma casa." " Don Francisco, why do you not smoke your 
cigar? — do the same as if you were in your own house." — 
Adopting the maxim, a Rome comme a Home, we indulged 
ourselves in smoking one of the cigars of Chile, called " hojas," 
or *f hojitas." They are about two inches and an half long; 
the wrapper is made of the inner husk of corn, and filled with 
coarsely powdered tobacco. As their use is apt to stain the 
fingers of the smoker, the fashionable young gentlemen carry 
a pair of delicate gold tweezers for holding them. The cigar 
is so small in size, that it requires not more than three or four 
minutes to smoke one. It serves well to fill up an interval in 
conversation. At tertfilias, the gentlemen sometimes retire to 
a balcony, to smoke one or two cigars after a dance. 

About eight o'clock, a party, consisting of four ladies and 
two gentlemen, came in. The same stiffness of reception Was 
manifest on their entrance, except that the ladies rose from 
their seats, and embraced their female guests one after the 
other. Yet the conversation was soon very animated, dresses 
were criticised, the theatre spoken of; and it was mentioned 
as a profound secret, that a ball was to be given by some one 
of their mutual friends. Then the subject changed to the in- 
disposition of some one of the family, and each lady recited a 
long list of remedies which were infallible, relating how such 
a one had suffered from the same disease. I inferred from the 
whole discussion, that a violent quack medicine called '< Pan- 
quimagogo," was the most effectual, as well as the most popu- 
lar of all remedies, in all diseases. 

Soon after the arrival of the ladies and gentlemen, ices, cakes, 
liqueurs, and water, were served to all. The conversation did 
13 



98 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

not flag; and I was impressed with the fact, that the ladies fre- 
quently displayed considerable archness and humor in their re- 
marks ; and this I found to be the case in all my intercourse 
with Chilian society. 

Just before taking leave, Dona Ignacita left the room, and 
returned in a few minutes with a handful of flowers, and pre- 
sented one to each of the guests, in a manner that was very 
graceful, her face being lighted up with smiles ; yet she said 
not a word. This universal custom of presenting flowers to 
guests, is a beautiful token of welcome; and where they are 
not offered, it is certain that the visiter has not made a favor- 
able impression, and a repetition of his visits will not be ac- 
ceptable. This presentation is made on the three or four first 
visits, but is afterwards omitted. Of the origin of this custom, 
I know nothing ; yet I was pleased with it, and bore off my 
rose as an emblem of friendship, and valued it more when I 
came to understand the full force of this kind of language. 

When we took leave, the ladies again embraced their female 
guests ; and Dona Juana said to me, " Seiior Don Francisco, ya 
sabe usted la casa, y es i la disposicion de usted." — "Don 
Francisco, now you know the house, and it is at your disposal." 
I thanked her, and said, I should take great pleasure in repeat- 
ing my visit. " Cuando guste usted Caballero." "When you 
please, Cavalier," she replied, and turned to my friend Don 
Samuel, and said, "no olvide usted la noche de Domingo, y 
diga k su amigo, que vengatambien." — "Dont forget, Sunday 
night, and tell your friend to come also !" 

Such are, generally, the events and ceremonies of a first visit 
on a week day evening. It will be observed, that I was intro- 
duced as a friend, without my name being mentioned, nor was 
any other than my Christian name asked, until my third or 
fourth visit. After that the flowers are not given, unless other 
strangers be present, when the old acquaintances also receive 
the compliment, in common with the rest of the company. 
There is something so very amiable in the character of the 
Chilenas, that it is almost impossible not to be pleased in their 
society. Foreigners who are unable to speak Spanish well, are 
always treated with the greatest indulgence, as respects errors 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 99 

of speech, and always receive encouragement from the ladies; 
they anticipate a part of the sentence, when they observe the 
speaker embarrassed, but never in such a way as to make him 
feel that it is for correction ; — then they are so patient, and 
speak so slowly for him, and never laugh, or even smile, at his 
most ludicrous mistakes. I will observe here, that the best 
way to learn to speak Spanish, is first to become thoroughly 
acquainted with the conjugation of the verbs, then visit the la- 
dies, and talk, right or wrong — 

" Thus Juan learn'd his alpha beta better 
From Haidee's glance, than any graven letter." 

I think Lord Byron good authority for this at least. The gram- 
matical construction of the language may be studied with more 
advantage, after the student is able to speak it, than before. 

My second visit to Dona Juana, was between the hours of 
twelve and one o'clock in the day. I found two of the young 
ladies seated at their frames, embroidering shawls, in very 
beautiful patterns. They wore the shawl, and the hair was 
braided and hanging down the back. Dona Carmencita was 
sitting on the sofa, db la Turque, with a book in her lap, and 
stooping forward, in such a way that her hair, which was loose 
and wet, formed a complete veil for her face. On my entrance, 
she laid her hair behind her ears, and closed her book. Her sis- 
ters pushed aside their work, and adjusted their shawls and 
dresses. The shawl of a Chilian belle is a most rebellious and 
troublesome article of dress, for it will be constantly slipping off 
the shoulder, and bo disclose a pretty neck and upper part of the 
bust, which the young ladies are ever anxious to conceal. La- 
dies never pursue their needle-work in the presence of stran- 
gers, or rather visiters, as it is considered impolite ; from this 
circumstance, foreigners have charged them with being idle. 
Yet when it is recollected that there are no mantua-makers in 
Chile, and that the ladies make their own dresses, they must 
be exonerated from that accusation. They are always neat in 
the decoration of their feet ; — silk stockings are universally 
worn. 

Dofia Carmencita apologized for the state of her parurey say- 



100 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

ing that she had just been washing her hair in a solution or 
suds of <'quillai," and it had not yet dried. The "quillai" 
is the barK of the Quillaja Saponaria, Molina, a large tree 
growing at the foot of hills, and in the mountain valleys of 
Chile. When the bark is broken into small pieces, and infused 
in cold water, it forms a suds similar to that of soap. With 
this, the ladies of Chile are in the habit of washing their heads, 
once in about ten days ; they say it preserves the scalp from 
dandruff; it certainly gives the hair a very clean, glossy ap- 
pearance. Besides, it is also useful for cleansing cloths, silks, 
and crapes, from grease, without injuring either their texture 
or color, and is sometimes used as a medicine. 

The ladies were very conversable, and made many inquiries 
about the United States, the North American ladies, their 
amusements, dress, &c. They spoke of the Peruvian ladies as 
being distinguished for their intrigues and want of modesty, 
and as an illustration, Dona Juana related the following anec- 
dote. 

A Marquesa was walking towards her home one evening, 
concealed in the peculiar dress of the country, called " saya 
y manto," and was spoken to by an unknown young gentle- 
man in a cloak, who importuned her to go to a caffe and ac- 
cept of some refreshment. She finally consented. After partak- 
ing of ices, cakes, and costly wines, to an amount so great that 
she thought her beau would not have money enough in his 
purse to pay, she called the host aside, (whom she knew well,) 
and told him not to permit the gentleman to leave the house 
till he had paid, nor to accept from him any other pledge than 
his pantaloons ; for which service the landlord was to receive 
a douceur. The young gentleman's purse could not cover one 
half the amount of the charge, and mine host vowed that he 
must have the whole before he left. The young gentleman 
offered his watch in pledge, which was obstinately refused. 
The marquesa grew impatient at the delay, and urged her 
beau to make haste, or she would leave him. The landlord de- 
manded the pantaloons. The young gentleman was indignant, 
and referred the case to his fair enchantress, who, after some 
coaxing, persuaded him to yield his pantaloons, roll his cloak 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 101 

about him, and accompany her home. He consented. She de- 
lighted the victim of her sport with her lively jeux (Pesprit, 
as they walked along, and at last ushered him into a splendidly 
furnished room, occupied by a brilliant party of ladies and 
gentlemen. The youth would have escaped, but the fair one 
held him tight by the arm, and conducted him to a seat. He 
drew his cloak closer around him, and bent his feet under his 
chair. The marquesa introduced several of her female friends 
to him, after giving them a hint of her joke. The young ladies 
insisted that he must be very warm, but he thought it was 
cold ; — they urged him to dance, but he vowed he could not. 
At last the ladies, became rude, and, forcibly removing the 
cloak from the young cavalier's shoulders, exposed him to the 
whole company, standing in his drawers and boots ; after being 
heartily laughed at, he was turned out of doors! 

When Dona Carmencita told the story, 1 asked whether she 
believed it. She replied, laughing, "Qui6n sabe puez!" — Who 
knows then ! This expression is very constantly used by the 
Chilians, and the word puez is employed frequently without 
any meaning being attached to it. Puez Men, puez buenoy 
puez si, puez no, are universally used. Not unfrequently, 
when a pause occurs in company, the dead silence will be 
broken by some one exclaiming, with a sigh, ^' Puez si Senorl" 
which serves as a starting point for conversation. 

On a Sunday evening, I accompanied my friend, Don Samuel, 
" to assist" at the terttilia given weekly by Dona Juana. We 
found a number of ladies and gentlemen, old and young, pretty 
and plain, already assembled. The ladies were ranged, seated 
facing each other, in a long file, extending across the room, 
the appearance of which was much improved by the carpet 
being spread entirely over the "petdte," or mat. In the United 
States the carpets are always taken up for soirees or iertulias 
(preferring the latter word), when dancing forms a part of the 
amusement ; but here, on the contrary, they are always spread 
for that purpose, and kept rolled up to one side of the apart- 
ment at other times. Even at public balls, the dancing room is 
always carpeted ; the reason for this practice is that the floors 
are of tiles. 



102 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

The gentlemen were slowly pacing the apartment, standing 
in squads of two or three, or conversing with the ladies ; and 
two or three were walking in the balcony, smoking " hojitas." 

The ladies, now laughing and talking, had thrown aside the 
shawl, and displayed the bust and figure, beautified by the aid 
of all the little machinery of a female toilette. In this particu- 
lar, they do not manifest less taste than the ladies of other 
countries, who pay a moderate respect to the great tyrant — 
Fashion. The Chilenas have been accused of using pink-sau- 
cers, and flake white,* yet, so far as my observation goes, I 
think most unjustly. I would not, however, defend every lady, 
in this or any other country, from the charge of using "afeites" 
— which word includes all those articles used for beautifying 
the face, as rouge, pearl powder, pink-saucers, flake white, 
moveable or extra curls, and the long list of cosmetics. I pre- 
sume, as a general rule, that female vanity, cxteris paribus y 
is nearly the same in all parts of the world. Where intellectual 
qualifications are esteemed superior to those of a personal kind, 
women of cultivated minds will scorn to attract the other sex 
by the means alluded to ; but can we blame those born where 
female excellence is estimated to consist of mere animaliti, 
for helping nature, when she has been sparing in bestowing 
personal beauties, by the use of those "afeites!" 

Tea, cofiee, &c. were served as with us, and afterwards one 
of the ladies took a seat at the piano. While she was preluding, 
a gentleman, styled " el bastondro" (who is some intimate, 
self-elected for the evening) cried out, <' Contradanza Se- 
nores" — Contradance, Gentlemen" — upon which intimation, 
they led forth their partners, and stood up in order. The mu- 
sic commenced ; the time, that of a slow waltz. That the grace 
and beauty of the "contradanza" may be appreciated, it must 
be seen ; the figures are so various, and some of them so intri- 
cate or labyrinth-like, that I will not attempt to describe them ; 
they exhibit what might be termed the very poetry of the 
Terpsichorean art. The contradance was followed by qua- 
drilles and waltzing. 

• Porter's Journal. — Basil Hall. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 103 

"Dulces" or sweetmeats of various kinds are served during 
the evening, in a manner that is peculiar (so far as I know) to 
the south-west coast of this continent. A large shallow dish 
of " dulces," placed on a silver salver with a number of small 
forks of the same metal, is offered round to the company, each 
lady conveying a morsel of the sweet to her mouth from the 
dish, by aid of a fork. The "dulce" is sometimes very little 
more consistent than thick syrup ; then, it is very adroitly 
twisted round the fork, and dexterously deposited in the 
mouth. Immediately after the salver of "dulces," follows 
one with goblets of water, which the Chilians invariably drink 
after eating sweets. On these occasions, a beau hands the glass 
to a belle in a gallant manner, holding his neat cambric hand- 
kerchief beneath it, that a drop may not fall upon the lady's 
dress. ' 

A few dances and a few songs, more "dulces," (and ices 
occasionally) bring the evening near its close. Then, if the 
party has been a merry one, the " Cuando," a dance peculiar 
to Chile, is performed. It is always accompanied by a song. 
It commences like the minuet, all the gestures being very 
graceful, and in time with the verses, which run thus ; 

** Anda ingrata que algun dia 
Con las mudanzas del tlempo, 
Lloraras como yo Uoro — 
Sentiras como yo siento — 
Cuando ! cuando ! 
Cuando, ml-vida, cuando !" 

With these lines ends the minuet ; the allegro follows, and the 
step changes to a shuffle or quick beating of the feet, called 
"zapateando" or shoeing it, to the following lines, while one 
or two persons beat time with their palms upon the top of the 
piano ; — 

** Cuando serd esa dia 
De aquella feliz manana 
Que nos lleven a los dos 
El chocolate k la cama. 

Cuando ! cuando ! 

Cuando, mi vida, cuando !" 



104 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

With these lines, the figure changes from the minuet ; the dan- 
cers advance towards and retreat from each other, move round 
dos a dos, " zapateando" in time, waving their kerchiefs in the 
right hand, left arm akimbo, whole figure leaning forward, 
eyes and face cast down, till at last the gentleman, with a gal- 
lant coupi of the foot, seizes the lady's hand, dodges under 
her arm, and both gain their seats, amidst the plaudits of the 
company. <'Otra, otra," — Another, another, exclaim a dozen 
voices, and the floor is occupied by another couple, and the 
dance is again repeated. The andante verse of the song con- 
tains an accusation of ingratitude, and a prognostication that, 
in time, the lady will feel and weep as much as the gentleman 
(who sings) has felt and wept ; the allegro supposes a recon- 
ciliation, and is an exclamatory inquiry, " when shall be the 
nuptial day !" 

The following verses are sung as andante, with the same 
allegro given above. 

" Las durisimas cadenas 
Que mi triste cuerpo arrastra ; 
Puesto que por te las llevo. 
No pueden serme pesadas." 

Allegro. 

*• A me que huya los rigores, 
Conque procuras herirme! 
Yo no puedo existirme. 
Si piosigues en tas amoves !" 
Allegro. 

" Cuando, cuando, tengo pena. 
Me voy a la orilla de la mar, 

Y le pregunto a. las olas 
Mi amante me dejari !" 

Allegro. 

" Este hermoso ramill^te, 
Recibe antes que te partas, 
£n senal de mi memotia, 

Y en prenda de mi constancia !" 

Allegro. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 105 

The following stanzas are sometimes substituted both for 
allegro and andante : 

"Cuando, cuando, 
Cuando yo me muere 
No me lloren los parientes 
Lloren me las Alembiques 
Donde sacan aguardientes." 

Mlegro. 
" A la plata me remito, 
Lo demas es boberia, 
Andar con la boca seca 
E la barriga vacfa !" 

There is another dance, called "laperdiz," which some- 
times follows the " cuando," and occasionally takes its place. 
It is performed with the accompaniment of beating time with 
the palms, and singing the following verses to rather a lively 
air; 

" Hay ! de la perdiz, madre. 

Hay ! de la perdiz, 
, Que se la lleva, el gato, 

Y el gato — mis, mis — 

Ven aca, ven aca, mis, mis." 

The step is similar to that exhibited in the «' cuando." When 
the above lines are concluded, the dancers stand opposite to 
each other, and the lady repeats a stanza from memory, such 
as follows : 

" Tengo una escalerita, 
Llena de flores. 
Para subir al cieloj 
De mis amores.'** 

The chorus is then repeated with the dance and waving of the 
handkerchief. When it ceases, the gentleman is bound to re- 

* Thus rendered, literatim — , 

" I have a little ladder 
Full of flowers. 
To mount to the heaven 

Of my loves!" • , 

14 



106 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

ply to the lady in an appropriate stanza, from some of the poetsy 
or make one impromptu for the occasion. This alternate danc- 
ing and recitation, are continued till the lady has exhausted 
her memory, or till she has repeated six or eight stanzas. 
When the dancers possess humor or wit, as they frequently 
do, "la perdiz" becomes the source of great merriment and 
enjoyment. 

About eleven o'clock, the old ladies begin to embrace their 
friends, the young ones imitate them, and the "tertulia" is 
broken up. Nothing, in the way of evening party, can exceed 
the social cordiality, the freedom from restraint, and the gene- 
ral enjoyment, afforded at the "tertulias", and " reuniones" of 
Chile. 

The English-speaking foreigners, in Valparaiso, who pre- 
tend to be of substance, and somewhat aristocratical withal, 
have formed little coteries amongst themselves, and never ad- 
mit the Chilians into their society, except on some grand oc- 
casion, or unless the ladies are married to some Englishman 
or North American. All the English and American ladies 
here, are married ; therefore, the young men seek amusement 
in the society of the natives, at least till they acquire the lan- 
guage. Few of them are able to speak it on their arrival, and 
even after a long residence in the country, they rarely learn 
to speak well. The Germans and French possess an innate 
power, and naturally, more industry for acquiring languages, 
and perhaps greater facilities than others ; we generally find 
them speaking with grammatical propriety, and often with ele- 
gance, though not with the purity of accent often attained by 
the Americans and English. 

A difference of education and religion, a difference in the es- 
timate of pleasures and amusements, together with the inabili- 
ty to speak fluently the languages of each other, are sufficient 
reasons for the want of congeniality, observable between the 
foreign and Chilian ladies : and I have invariably remarked, 
that when they have met at petites soirees, the society has been 
under restraint, and hilarity repressed. This is particularly 
true of water parties, for which the Chil^nas have a great lik- 
ing, and which are most cheerful when entirely Chilian, or 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 107 

North American and English. The foreign society, compared 
with the Chilian, is more intellectual — more conversational — 
more devoted to eating — while the Chilian is more musical — 
(not of the highest order, however) more chit-chatable — more 
flirtationable — and then they dance and glance ; — there is a 
sort of rivalship, too, between the qualities of the head and 
heels, for the face grows grave whenever the feet "move to 
measure." The Spanish society is more fitted to please and 
amuse naval officers during their short visits ; but, for a long 
sojourn, the English and North American, met with in Valpa- 
raiso, is preferable. Considering the discordant materials of 
which it is composed, the foreign society may be pronounced 
good. The English abroad, so far as I have seen, generally as- 
sume a higher stand than they have held or can hold at home ; 
and adopting the maxim of Hamlet — "assume a virtue, if you 
have it not," set up for distinction, and from their efforts to 
gain it, very often deserve it. North Americans are occasion- 
ally obnoxious to similar remarks. There is a jealousy between 
the two nations that sometimes peeps forth ; — in fact there is 
a disagreeable sort of surveillance, mutually exercised by the 
people of both sides of the water. 



CHAPTER III. 

Ride to Santiago— Mode of travelling — Peonada — The honey palm — Carretas 
— Mode of descending hills — Penuelas — Throwing the lazo — A bivouac — 
Casablanca — Posida — Mode of making butter — Bread — Cuesta de Zapita — 
Bustamente — Breakfast — Cuesta del Prado — A view — Entrance to Santiago 
— Custom house officers — Table of Barometric observations. 

Finding myself, towards the end of May 1832, in Valpa- 
raiso, with a few weeks leisure, and a friend about returning 
to his residence near Santiago, I determined to embrace the 
opportunity of paying a visit to the Capital of Chile. This is 
«ot the most favorable season for travelling, but inasmuch as 



108 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the rains had been backward, we anticipated that the roads 
would be good. 

The usual mode of travelling is in a gig. The vehicle used 
here, differs in nothing from that of the United States, except 
that the wheels are clumsy, and of a stronger construction. It 
frequently happens that the gig, from rough treatment, is sadly 
shattered, and in consequence, almost covered with thongs of 
hide, running in different directions, to keep it from tumbling 
to pieces. The one selected for our journey, had a neat green 
body, hung low, with a gilt wreath running round the panels ; 
the top was broad, and hung forward so much, that it afforded 
us ample protection both from sun and rain. 

The gear of the team is rather peculiar. The horse, placed 
in the shafts, is harnessed in the ordinary manner, with the 
exception of having a short leading rein, held by a postillion, 
who rides a horse attached on the left side by a swingle-tree. 
His saddle, like all those of the country, rises high before and 
behind, affording a secure seat, and is composed of several 
pieces ; first, a rough wooden tree is put on over two or three 
back-cloths, and then as many "pillons," or sheep skins dress- 
ed with the wool on, and dyed of various colors, are placed 
over it. The whole is secured by a girth, made of a dozen thin 
strips of hide worked into large rings at each end, and attached 
to the saddle by similar thongs. The stirrups are pyramidal 
shaped blocks of wood, carved in some curious pattern, and 
sometimes ornamented with plates of silver, having holes on 
one side to accommodate the feet. The reins are of plaited 
hide, terminating in a thong six or eight feet in length, which 
answers all the purposes of a whip. The bit is very powerful, 
and capable of controlling the most vicious horse. At the sad- 
jdle-bow is carried a long knife, used both for feeding and de- 
fence ; the "lazo," or noose of hide, without which the horse- 
man would be frequently at a loss, is carried behind. The pos- 
tillions wear straw hats, over Madras or silk handkerchiefs 
knotted about the head, the ends hanging down behind. A 
short jacket, coarse pantaloons, betas, great spurs, and the 
poncho, sometimes knotted carelessly round the waist, or hang- 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 109 

ing unembarrassed over one shoulder, complete the travelling 
dress. 

One advantage of this mode of travelling, is that the travel- 
ler is free to choose his hour for setting out, as well as that for 
halting ; and as only two can ride together, he always has the 
privilege of selecting his travelling companion. In 1826, the 
gig, horses, &c, were hired to go from Valparaiso to Santiago 
for seventeen dollars ; owing to the increase of commerce, and 
the consequent necessity of more frequent communication be- 
tween the port and the capital, the price is reduced to ten. 

About one o'clock P. M., our " capatdz" (sort of prefect or 
overseer) brought the gig to the door ; and, having seen our 
trunks carefully lashed with thongs of hide to the sides of a 
pair of patient baggage mules, we mounted. While chatting 
with our friends, and giving occasional directions about the 
mules, our vehicle was well stowed with what are called "en- 
comiendas," or small packages, directed to various persons in 
Santiago. We were seated ; the postillion looked back, nodded 
his head, and said, interrogatively, "^yavamos, Senores?" 
— do we start now, gentlemen? We answered, "vamos." He 
bestowed his whip right and left, and we trotted off as fast as 
the many obstructions, from mules and carr6tas, crowded in 
the narrow street, would allow. On reaching the lower end of 
the Almendrdl, we met the second "peon,"* or postillion, 
with a troop of six or eight horses, destined as a relay upon 
the road. We halted ; the capitd,z came up with the mules, and 
drove them, as well as the extra horses, ahead. In the mean 
time, the second postillion hitched on to the vehicle, by a 
thong passing from the shaft to his saddle girth ; then both ap- 
plying whip and spur, we moved up the Altos de Valparaiso 
at a round trot, with three horses abreast. 

Domingo, the capatdz, had several new straw hats, which he 
was carrying to some of his friends ; they were placed one 
within the other, and then upon his own, forming a pyramid 
on his head. He had changed the pace of his stout, long bodied 
foorse, into a walk, when Domingo threw the rein behind him, 

• The word "peon" designates a laboring man. 



110 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and resting a hand on each thigh, allowed his person to move 
from side to side, with the alternate steps of the animal, as he 
preceded us up the alto. As the ascent grew more steep, our 
speed slackened, and the '' peon,'' named Pepe, drew forth an 
*' hojita," and having properly adjusted it, held it crosswise 
betwixt his lips, while he struck fire by the aid of a small horn 
of tinder, and in a little while, both Pepe, and Manuel the 
second peon, were quietly smoking. 

Pepe was a stout, well formed youth, about five feet six 
inches high, and perhaps twenty years old. He possessed an 
amiable though somewhat serious face, with good teeth, and a 
cheek like a dirty peach. He had a new gingham jacket, which 
he was desirous of protecting from the dust, and therefore tied 
two corners of a handkerchief under his chin, allowing it to 
hang down behind like a cloak. Manuel was perhaps younger, 
equally vigorous, but possessed of a most roguish countenance, 
though not less healthful than that of his companion ; in fact, 
he was a frolicksome looking youth, with well turned limbs. 
These two " peones" seemed to be the best friends in the 
world, and had I not inquired as to the fact, I should have 
thought they were brothers ; for during the whole journey, 
they were always ready to strike fire for each other, and per- 
form a thousand other little friendly ofiices. The " capatdz" 
was a man of about thirty, stout, well made, and six feet high. 
The " peones" obeyed his orders cheerfully, but never treated 
him with the deference that I have seen elsewhere observed 
by persons similarly related. These men were a fair specimen 
of what is termed the ''peondda," or laboring population of 
Chile. They were active, cheerful, and respectful, without 
being servile, and well calculated to be members of a free and 
independent republic. Those men who live as they do, are re- 
markable for the development of their lower limbs ; it is not 

unusual, in some parts of the country, to say, " Don 

tiene buena pierna" — such an one has a good leg ; meaning he 
is a good horseman. 

The summit of the Altos de Valparaiso is 1260 feet above 
the level of the sea.* Like all the high land round Valparaiso, 

• Miers. Travels in Chile. 



irOTICES OP CHILE. Ill 

it is chiefly composed of blocks of decomposing feldspar, cover- 
ed with a thin soil, scarcely sufficient to nourish the cactus 
plants, that stand on its most prominent points. The road has 
been cut into the solid rock in some places, with very considera- 
ble labor ; it mounts, in a zig-zag line, up one side of a deep 
quebrdda, at the bottom of which runs a pebbled brook. 
Though a considerable toll is levied for keeping it in repair, 
it is sadly out of order. Every laden mule entering into or 
going out of Valparaiso, pays a "medio"* (64 cents). This 
tax is sold yearly by the government, at auction ; the purchaser 
collects the toll, and the government engages to keep the road 
in good travelling condition. Yet in winter it is rarely travel- 
led in safety; for the rains of a single night swell the streams, 
and, carrying oflf the fragile bridges, render the road impassa- 
ble till the waters subside. In the winter of 1827, intercourse 
between Santiago and the Port was suspended, from this cause, 
for several days. 

In about an half hour we reached the top of the hill. Here, 
for a moment only, we had a magnificent view. The town lay 
almost beneath us, the bay spread its beautiful sheet of water 
before the eye, and the ocean expanded away till it met the 
sky and disappeared. Only one small sail, like a bright speck 
on the blue expanse, was seen approaching the harbor. 



* The coins of Chile are all of gold or silver. Banks and bank notes are un- 
known. 



/-Onza, equal to 


$17 25 


\ Media Onza, do. 
J Doblon, do. 


8 62i 


4 3H 


V_ Escudo, do. 


2 15i 


' Peso, equal to 


$1 00 


Dos reales, do. 


25 


Silver."^ Real, do. 


12i 


Medio, do. 


6i 


^ Cuartillo, do- 


3 



The dollar is rare. The small pieces are irregularly clipped, and familiarly 
called " cut money." 



112 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

From rough, the road now became smooth ; the south wind 
swept fresh and cool across it. Pepe untied the poncho from 
his middle, and thrusting his head through its centre, concealed 
the upper part of his figure in its drapery. Manuel cast off the 
trace from his saddle girth, and went avvay with the capataz. 
Pep6 put spurs, lashed his heavy whip right and left, and made 
a cheering noise to the animals. They pricked up their ears; 
the one in the shafts set off in a rapid trot, while that on which 
the postillion rode advanced in a beautiful canter. Pepe sat 
like a part of the animal upon which he was, his poncho flap- 
ping, and the ends of the handkerchief round his head fluttering 
on the breeze. Quick motion is the most pleasant stimulant in 
the world, whether on shore or afloat. Pepe commenced a 
song in the nasal yet melancholy tone of the country, accom- 
panied by the jingle of his huge spurs and the rattling of the 
wheels over the hard dry ground. My companion, as well as 
myself, during the slow ascent of the hill, had sunk back, each 
into his corner; he enjoyed a sort of revery, enveloped in the 
smoke of a cigar which stole quietly upwards in a little blue 
stream from the corner of his mouth, while I watched the 
horses' heads as they alternately nodded up and down ; for I 
found nothing to look at but the ascent before us. We now 
both roused up, and looked back at the bay and the ocean, and 
then forward. The country, as far as the eye could reach, was 
uncultivated, barren, and irregular. We saw now and then a 
solitary palm tree waving its beautiful green head on the 
breeze. Our horses, mules, and capatdz had disappeared in 
some of the gullies or by-roads. 

This palm is very valuable, supplying a substitute for honey 
in a country where there are no bees. It grows from forty to 
fifty feet high ; the limbs all spring upwards from the top, and 
falling over, form a graceful round head. The fruit is in every 
respect like the cocoa-nut, except that it is not larger than a 
walnut. At particular seasons the trunk is bored, and the 
sap, b)'^ evaporation, forms a honey, which, distilled, yields an 
intoxicating liquor, called "guarape," much prized by the 
lower classes. The annual produce of a single tree is estimated 
to be worth ten dollars. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 113 

When descending the hill to Pefiuelas, we overtook three 
large "carretas," on their way to the capital. The carr6ta or cart 
is a most clumsy, unwieldy kind of vehicle. The wheels are 
about ten feet high, bound with a huge wooden tire, the fellies 
of which are applied in such a way that the joints fall between 
those of the wheel-fellies ; the whole being secured with 
wooden pins, gives strength to the structure. The hubs are 
simply blocks, or rather sections of the trunk of a tree, with a 
hole burnt through the centre for the axle, which is never 
greased, because, it is said, the squeaking noise caused by the 
friction of the dry wood, served to waken the drowsy custom 
house officers, stationed on the road during the Spanish re- 
gime; and now the oxen have become so accustomed to the 
sound, that they are unwilling to move without it. The body 
of the cart is fourteen or fifteen feet long^ by six Dr seven 
broad, covered over with an arching canopy, made of canes or 
wattled straw, having small square holes cut in the sides as 
look-out places, while the front and rear are left open. It is 
drawn by from four to six oxen, yoked by the horns, the first 
pair of which support the tongue of the carreta. The driver, 
or capatdz, wears a cone shaped hat, poncho, and a pair of 
bragas, sustained above the loins by a sash; they fall a little 
below the knee, and, being cut straight, the inner seam ap- 
plies itself close to the leg, while the outer one stands afar off. 
The legs are bare ; the feet are protected by sandals of untanned 
leather, or shoes made somewhat after the fashion of the moc- 
casin of the North American Indian. He is armed with a pole, 
ten or twelve feet long, pointed with a nail or piece of sharp 
iron, with which he guidfes his cattle ; each one of the team 
has a name, and if not obedient, when called, is made to feel 
the point of the goad. 

The carretas we came up with, were laden with bales and 
packages ; carrying also on top, bales of straw, (not chopped, 
but broken by the fashion of treading out the grain by mares, 
instead of thrashing it), for the provender of the journey, which 
extends from six to ten days, according to the state of the roads. 
The teamsters were walking near the carr6tas, guiding them 
down hill ; to prevent a too rapid descent, a yoke of oxen was 
15 



114 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

attached, by a hide rope, to the tail of each cart. The animals 
understood their duties well ; for they placed their feet in ad- 
vance, and unwillingly yielded the ground, as they were drag- 
ged forward by the horns, thus answering all the purposes to 
the carr^ta, which a kedge anchor does to a ship moving in a 
tideway — that is, retard the progress. 

While we were looking at the carr6tas, Domingo and Manuel 
came up with the mules and horses. Manuel passed his " lazo" 
round the centre of the axle of the gig, and fastening it to his 
saddle girth, reined in his horse behind us, and we followed 
down the hill, kedging in the same style as the carr6tas. When 
near the " ranchos," or huts, which form the "pueblo," or 
town, two or three bare headed, half naked children, ran along 
beside us, holding out flowers, and crying, "toma, Senores; 
un real" — " take (them), gentlemen ; a real." Though it was 
rather cool, the present of flowers was romantic enough ; but 
the call for the real, reminded me of one of the letters of Miss 
Biddy Fudge : 

" This is all that's occurr'd sentimental as yet ; 

Except, indeed, some little flower nymphs we've met. 
Who disturb one's romance with pecuniary views, 
Flinging flowers in your path, and then bawling for sous /" 

The post of Penuelas is three leagues from Valparaiso, and 
nine hundred and forty-one feet above the level of the sea. 
Here there is an inn, at which many, who ride thus far for 
pleasure, stop. Here we found a table spread with cold corned 
beef, ham, tongue, &c., and a half dozen English midshipmen, 
from one of the men-of-war in the harbor, amusing themselves 
by endeavoring to throw the "lazo." Their frequent failures 
served to set ofi'the dexterity with which our " peones" caught 
the horses, which were to relieve those ridden thus far. The 
" lazo" is a hide rope, ten or twelve yards long, with a running 
noose at one end, which is opened, when used, for about a yard j 
the coil is held in the left hand, while the right keeps the 
noose in a circular motion over the head ; when fairly spread, 
it is thrown with unerring aim, and lodges over the neck of the 
animal to be taken. The moment the " lazo" encircles his 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 115 

neck, the horse, that before was so shy as to render approach- 
ing; him impossible, becomes completely docile. 

Having changed horses, we again took our seats, and con- 
tinued on, rising and descending hills, for three leagues, over 
a very irregular, barren country. This distance brought us to 
the Tablas or plains. The sun had sunk, and left the sky bril- 
liant in stars and azure. The atmosphere in Chile, during the 
winter, is clearer than in any part of the world, and the splen- 
dor of the moonlight nights, cannot be exceeded any where. 

At a short distance before us, we saw a light, and on draw- 
ing near, perceived that it proceeded from a fire in the midst of 
three or four carretas, which had halted for the night. We 
again alighted to change horses. As far as the eye could see 
over the plain, we could discern no house. The fire was sur- 
rounded by the carret6ros, or teamsters; some were seated on 
the ground, with their feet drawn up, and their hands locked 
in front of their knees ; some were standing with arms folded ; 
others reclined upon an elbow, gazing at the burning faggots, 
and others again were moving about, silently arranging the 
provender for the cattle. The bales of straw had been brought 
from the carretas, and the oxen stood peacefully chewing the 
cud, having satisfied their appetite on this meagre fare. Small 
earthen pans, or "ollas," placed on tripods of stones, were 
stewing and sending forth a savory smell of garlic, and two or 
three pieces of "charqui," or jerked beef, were broiling on 
the coals. As we drew near to enjoy the benefit of the fire — 
for the air had grown chill as November, several dogs made a 
furious attack upon us, but were at once recalled by an authori- 
tative voice ; "Ay ! perro, ush — perro — grandisima *****!" 
The last superlative epithet (which would soil our page) being 
followed by a stone, the curs slunk away, and laid down under 
the carts. So soon as the uproar subsided, they said, " pasan 
ustedes adeldnte, Senores ; hace frio" — pass forward, gentlemen, 
it is cold." We found comfortable seats on the tongue of one of 
the carr6tas, at once lighted our cigars, and took part in the con- 
versation. These " peones" were lamenting the want of rain, 
and drew a most gloomy picture of the state of the country. 
« The flocks and herds," said they, " are perishing in every 



116 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

direction, for want of fodder — our mules and oxen are growing 
leaner and leaner every day — straw is dear, and we must lay 
up for the season, to give our cattle an opportunity to fatten !" 

The glare from the fire presented the group in strong relief; 
their brown ponchos and bragas, sun-burnt faces, and bare legs, 
gave them a wild appearance, that might have induced one to 
mistake the scene for a bivouac of banditti. 

In a few minutes, our capatdz cried, << ya estamos, Senores" 
— we are ready, Sirs. We again mounted, and, having first 
rolled our cloaks around us, each settled into his own corner. 
As it was growing late, Manuel hitched his beast on the right; 
and while the horse in the shafts trotted at a rapid rate, those 
under the saddle went at a hand gallop. The road was now 
hard, smooth, and perfectly level. By the light of the stars, 
we could perceive that the; capatdz kept the relief horses and 
mules trotting on ahead. For the greater part of the way, 
Pepe and Manuel relieved each other in low, plaintive ditties, 
which were unintelligible to us on account of the rattling of 
the wheels, the pattering of hoofs, and the jingle of spurs. 
Whenever we passed a bivouac, such as above described, Ma- 
nuel always hailed with the greatest good humor, and was al- 
ways answered in some gay saying. 

In this manner we rode four leagues, which brought us to 
the "pueblo" of Casablanca, through the street of which we 
drove at a round rate, amidst the uproar of barking dogs. As 
we passed the houses, we saw, through the wide-open doors, 
by the dim light of a tallow candle burning in each, the figures 
of men and women rolled in ponchos and shawls, sauntering 
about the rooms. Not an individual was induced by curiosity 
to come to the street to gape at our noisy party, as, I think, 
would have been the case in the small villages of some of the 
"Immortal States." 

A little after eight o'clock we alighted in the court yard of 
a "posdda," or tavern, kept by an Italian named Feroni, which 
has the reputation of being the best in the place. Feroni was 
a polite, tall, well made man, with an aquiline nose, black 
whiskers, and large black eyes. His language was a sort of 
jumble of Italian and Spanish, with an occasional dash of 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 117 

. French. He ushered us into a travellers' room on one side of 
an inner " patio" or court, where we found three gentlemen 
voyageurs. One a huge Frenchman, as corpulent as Daniel 
Lambert was wont to be represented on our copy-books, in 
by-gOne days; another was a tall, almost bone-bare Spaniard, 
with an immense nose and a squeaking voice, and the third, a 
young Chileno of pleasing manners. An oblong table stood 
in the centre of the room, leaving space on each side for chairs, 
and servants to pass, covered with a cloth, stained with red 
wine, and scattered with crumbs, informing us that the party 
had just supped. At one end of the apartment stood a long 
settee, which filled the space between the side walls ; at the 
other was the entrance, and a small table with glasses and 
bottles. 

The Frenchman sat at one end of the settee, picking his 
teeth with a fork, while the old Spaniard lolled at the other, 
smoking an "hoja" cigar; both were listening to the little 
Chil6no, who was walking up and down, puffing at intervals, 
when we entered. The party saluted us very politely, asked 
us to be seated, and then the Chileno continued his recital. 
Feroni inquired, "Cavaliere, que quieren ustedes cenar?" — 
meaning. Gentlemen, on what will you sup? Having ascer- 
tained our wishes on that head, he retired, and brought in a 
large copper pan of well burnt charcoal, which was quite wel- 
come to our benumbed fingers and toes. 

After the fire had infused a little suppleness into my limbs, 
I walked forth to survey the premises while our supper was 
preparing. The house is one story high, built around a *' pa- 
tio" or court yard, into which open several small sleeping 
rooms, the travellers' room, a passage to the kitchen, and an- 
other to the stable yard. Two small rooms in front are occu- 
pied by Feroni, Madam Feroni, and all the little Feronis. I 
found the family seated on mats around a "brazero" of coals 
prattling, while the mother, squatted on the ground, was sew- 
ing by the light of a tallow candle supported on a very low ta- 
ble before her. The children, though barefoot, were otherwise 
warmly clothed. The furniture of the room was complete in 
a few old stamped leather back chairs, and a bed which seemed 



118 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

to be the common receptacle for cast off ponchos, shawls, caps, 
&c. To the right of this family apartment was another, of 
about the same dimensions, in which Feroni had a small dirty- 
table, with pen, ink, and paper. In one corner was a bed, in 
another a half dozen skins of butter, and over head a quantity 
of Bologna sausages, of no mean excellence, were hanging from 
the naked beams. This, it will be seen, was the office or sanc- 
tum of our Boniface. 

In Chile, butter is packed in sheep skins with the wool side 
out, and would be very good, in spite of appearances, were it 
not so much salted. The operation of churning is performed 
by a donkey ; the cream is put into large gourds or dry skins, 
placed on his back, and then the animal is kept trotting round 
the yard till the butter is made. In this art they seem not to 
have advanced a single step since its discovery ; for we are told, 
that a countryman somewhere lost a large jug of cream by car- 
rying it for a distance on a hard trotting horse, which acci- 
dent led to the important invention of churns and butter. A 
friend told me, that he had presented, some years ago, a Yan- 
kee churn to a family residing near the capital, and taught 
them to use it. So long as it was a novelty they were pleased, 
but at the end of a few weeks they decided that the donkey 
made butter just as well, and consequently threw it aside ! 

Casablanca is situated in the midst of a vast plain, which is 
well irrigated, and produces quantities of wheat, butter, cheese, 
apples, peaches, pears, &c. It is ten leagues from Valparaiso, 
and consists of two long streets which meet at right angles ; in 
the elbow thus formed stand the church and the curate's dwell- 
ing, which opens on a grass plot in front. The houses are 
mostly one story high, built of " adobes" or sun-dried bricks, 
and roofed with red tiles. The population does not exceed one 
thousand souls. 

Half an hour after our arrival, Feroni announced supper, 
which consisted of roasted lamb, eggs, tea, bread, and excel- 
lent butter. The bread in Chile is made with a small addition 
of lard or <<graza," and a little anise to give it flavor. The 
wheat and flour of Chile are remarkably excellent ; when ma- 
nufactured by French bakers, it is equal in sweetness and nutri- 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 119 

live qualities to any bread I have ever tasted. It is generally- 
made in the form of small rolls. 

Soon after ending our meal we retired to our respective 
sleeping apartments. Mine was furnished with a mattress, 
spread upon a platform of reeds placed side by side, raised two 
feet from the ground, and covered by a coarse "petate" or 
mat. A wash-stand stood under a vile distorter of personal 
beauty — a Chinese mirror about a foot square. — I found conso- 
lation, however, soon after, being buried up to the chin in 
Feroni's clean bed. 

At daylight, according to direction, the capatdz knocked at 
the door, and holding a lantern up to the window, cried, 
<^Senor, arriba, arriba!" — up, up. Sir! Feroni had prepared 
tea for us, which was a comfort of a cold morning, and in which 
the big Frenchman joined us. Then, settling himself alone in 
his gig, rolled in a large blue cloak, tying a comforter around 
his neck, burying his chin in its folds, placing a little fur cap 
on his head, well drawn down in front, leaving no part of his 
face uncovered, (for his eyes were defended by a pair of spec- 
tacles), oflf he drove before us. We took our seats, almost as 
well defended as the Frenchman, and followed. As we dashed 
out of the gate, our wheels broke through a sheet of ice nearly 
an inch thick. The sun had not yet risen above the moun- 
tains which encircle the plain; the air was calm and piercing; 
the sky was clear blue, and a star still lingered in sight. Our 
road lay before us in one long, straight line, of three leagues 
and a half, to the Cuesta de Zapdta. The hedges on either hand 
were dry, and the trees every where leafless. 

At the foot of the Cuesta are a number of Algarrobo and 
Quillai trees. Here Manuel hitched his horse to the gig, and 
we ascended the zigzag road of the Cu6sta, three horses abreast. 
Its highest point is 1850 feet* above the level of the sea. When 
we reached it, we looked back upon the road we had just 
passed, which appeared like a single white line stretched across 
the plain. Here we felt, for the first time that morning, the 
cheering influence of the sun's rays, which thawed our silence 

• Miers. 



120 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC- 

(till then uninterrupted) into conversation; even the big French- 
man looked out round the side of his gig top, and cried "e'est 
un joli matin!" Manuel again passed his " lazo" around the 
axle, and we again kedged down after the Frenchman. About 
ten o'clock we stopped at an inn situated at the foot of the 
Cu6sta, in a vale called El cajon de Zapdta, where we changed 
horses, and again moved on. The country is level, and culti- 
vated, till it reaches an immense hill, or rather mountain, that 
surrounds the plain, forming it into a great basin. 

About one o'clock we halted at Bustamente, which is 1773 
feet above the level of the sea, and seven leagues from Santi- 
ago. Here we stopped to breakfast. The posdda is a one story 
building, surrounding three sides of a court or square, having 
a low corridor, in rather a decayed condition, running round 
it. We found every thing very comfortable and clean — at least 
for a high road in Chile. 

They gave us for breakfast the universal "casuelo," and a 
roasted "loma," with tea and chocolate. The "casuelo" con- 
sists of boiled chicken, potatoes, onions, carrots, tomatoes and 
eggs ; the whole being well seasoned with grease, aji, (a species 
of capsicum,) and a little garlic. The grease and aji are brown- 
ed in an "olla," and poured over the dish just at the moment 
it is served up. In spite of its incongruous materials, to a hun- 
gry stomach this mixture is far from being despicable. The 
*' loma" is the tender loin of the bullock, dissected out entire, 
and roasted on the coals, and is an exceedingly precious mor- 
sel. 

In proportion as our appetites succumbed to the good things 
placed before us, the Frenchman grew communicative. He 
was the principal of a fashionable female school, and, about ten 
days previously, had lost his wife in her accouchement. He 
lamented her loss, and expatiated on her virtues, <' because," 
said he, "I have been casting my eyes amongst the Chilenas, 
but I am unable to find one who can supply her place in the 
seminary !" Three weeks after this he was married. So much 
for the conjugal love of a Frenchman ! 

We again mounted, and were soon ascending the great Cues- 
ta del Prado, which rises 2543 feet above the level of the sea. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 121 

On one side, this road, which has been termed the Simplon of 
America, has twenty-eight turns. It winds, zigzag, over a 
kind of round mountain spur, far into the deep and almost per- 
pendicular quebrddas, which are on either side. In these, 
though the sun had passed the meridian, white frost still hung 
on the leafless shrubbery, and the little puddles on the road 
were still covered with ice. This road, though good as it can 
well be make, is dangerous ; carriages have been hurled from 
the top into the quebrdda below, and it is needless to say what 
was their fate ! The passage of the Cu6sta de Zapdta is equally 
dangerous, similar accidents having occurred upon it. 

When at the top, the most splendid scene imaginable broke 
upon the view. The sky was cloudless, the atmosphere was 
clear, and the azure heavens seemed transparent. The Cordil- 
leras of the Sierra Nevada stood, in a mighty chain, before us, 
rearing their summits 18,000 feet towards the blue vault. The 
fleecy snows — the accumulation of ages — hung like a bright 
mantle over its rocks and cliffs, falling gracefully into the pro- 
found gorges and deep glens, like the folds of a rich drapery. 
At the base, the capital was perceived, but its towers and fanes 
sank into insignificance in presence of the stupendous moun- 
tain ! To the right, the stream of Mapocho stole glittering 
over the vega ; the Maypo called up the glorious struggle which 
decided the fate of Chile to be onward in the march of inde- 
pendence ; and imagination arrayed the field with charging 
cavalry and flying squadrons, and the ears rang with the ex- 
ulting shouts of victory ! To the left, Colina appeared like a 
bright speck upon the plain, and in every direction were 
sprinkled ''chacras"and "haciendas," teeming with the labors 
of peace ! Conforming with the magnificence of the scene, 
mammoth-like condors proudly sailed, between us and the 
sky, towards their eyries in the cold bosom of the Andes ! 

Admiration was spell bound ! We were awe-struck by the 
grandeur of the mighty works of nature-before us, and exclaim- 
ing, "How wonderfully sublime !" gazed on in silence. 

'• Ah me ! what hand can pencil guide, or pen, 
To follow half on which the eye dilates. 
Through views more dazzling unto mortal ken, 
16 



122 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Than those whereof such things the bard relates, 

Who to the awe-struck world unlock'd Elysium's gates ?"* 

As before, we kedged down the cuesta, always looking at 
the scene before us, when not prevented by winding far into 
the quebrdda ; indeed it seemed impossible to take the eye from 
it. Having passed the cuesta, the road became level, and we 
drove rapidly. The sun had ceased to cast his rays on the glit- 
tering mountain, and the curtain of night began to darken the 
vega ; but the rosy tint of the snow, and the glowing sky above, 
still remained when we arrived at the entrance of the city. 

The view of the Andes, which absorbed our whole attention 
during the afternoon, leading the mind into a thousand specu- 
lations, left us, when the day closed, with feelings elevated far 
above the ordinary concerns of life. But at the entrance of the 
city, all that elevation was dashed down, and the mind forced 
into a new channel. The officers of the customs, stationed at 
the outskirts of the capital, stopped us. Two long lank fel- 
lows, with broad brimmed straw hats, tied under the chin, the 
brim floating free, and long, dark colored ponchos, made their 
appearance. One held a dirty tallow candle in one hand, and 
bent the long lean fingers of the other round the flame, to de- 
fend it from the air, at the same time endeavoring to look over 
the light, for the glare prevented him from seeing any thing. 
They first advanced upoa the Frenchman, whom, after much 
grumbling on his part, they forced to dismount. A man of his 
dimensions is generally good natured, but he did not rise wil- 
lingly from a seat in which he had been settled for two hours. 
As he stepped cautiously to the ground, a deep groan, ab imo 
pectore, escaped slowly from his lips, infusing itself into the 



• The battle of Maypo, which fixed the destinies of Chile, was fought on 
the 5th of April, 1818. The royalist army was 6,000 strong, and that of the 
patriots 6,500, including 1,000 militia. The victory was complete. About 2,000 
royalists were slain, and 3,500 wera made prisoners. The patriot loss was 
1,000 in killed and wounded. 

Previous to this brilliant victor}', Chile had been depressed by the disastrous 
affair at Cancha Rayada, but so great was the excitement and joy on the recep- 
tion of the news from Maypo, that several persons irrevocably lost their reason ! 
See Memoirs of General Miller^ vol. 1, London, 1828. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 123 

word sacre, pronounced in a tone vividly descriptive of the 
feelings of his inward man. Notwithstanding, the officers care- 
fully searched the gig, and found a small box directed to the 
French Consul at Santiago. The French Dominie plead in 
vain. It was against the law to carry sealed letters or packages ; 
this was therefore a prize. Finding remonstrance useless, he 
again took his seat and drove off, breathing, as long as we could 
hear him, a mountain of French curses on " les coquins.^^ 

Our turn came next. Without ceremony, they very impe- 
ratively saluted us with, "get out of the gig, and let us see 
what it contains." Having seen the fruitless effects of remon- 
strance, in the case of our companion of the road, we thought 
ready compliance might at least procure us politeness. We 
therefore alighted. My compagnon de voyage had brought 
with him a pound of snuff for an old gentleman in the country, 
and a box of cigars for himself ; and for which he had a " guia" 
or permit from the custom house at Valparaiso. One of these 
vigilant officers had mounted and already opened the gig box, 
when the " guia" was presented to him. The candle bearer 
drew near and stood in front of the wheel, leaning into the ve- 
hicle, while the other seated himself, and stretching the paper 
between his hands, leaned forward to the light which was now 
held before it. Both began reading and spelling the permit, 
commencing, '•' Puerto y Ciudad de Valparaiso y veinto cinco 
de Mayo." Every word was carefully read or spelled, their 
heads turning from side to side as their eyes followed the lines. 
When they had finished the perusal, the snuff and cigars were 
duly examined, to make sure that no more than the quantities 
named in the permit had been brought. At length, being sa- 
tisfied that the gig contained nothing contraband, the capatdz 
was ordered to unload the mules of our trunks. While this 
was doing, he who seemed to be superior drew forth a pocket 
box of coarsely powdered tobacco, and having very leisurely 
prepared an " hoja," cigar, commenced smoking. The trunks 
were opened in the middle of the road. Not an article escaped 
minute examination 5 every shirt was spread out, and even the 
coat pockets looked into. All this was conducted with the 
greatest deliberation, with a view, no doubt, as my friend sug- 



124 



THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



gested, of obtaining some trifling douceur, which he was un- 
willing to bestow, "because such a practice encourages disho- 
nesty." To their surprise, our patience was as indefatigable as 
their own ; and at last they said we might proceed, apologizing, 
however, before we parted, for their minute search, telling us, 
that they had found, only a few days since, a lot of smuggled 
ribbons concealed in a lady's soiled dress, which they brought 
to light from the top of her maid's trunk ! 

All this might have been avoided by slipping a few reals 
into the hands of these faithful public servants, but my com- 
panion was anxious for satisfaction in another way ; whether 
he ever obtained it I am unable to state. 

After the trunks were locked — not without difficulty, how- 
ever — and placed again on the mules' backs, we rattled through 
the streets to the Fonda Inglesa, right glad to get to our jour- 
ney's end. Here we were doomed to meet disappointment ; 
all the rooms were full. But, fortunately, after a little inquiry, 
we found furnished lodgings at La Fonda de la Constitucion, 
nearly opposite, but no table, so that we slept in the one house 
and eat in the other. 



Barometrical Observations made between Valparaiso and 
Santiago, in the months of October and November, 1819, 
by John Miers. 



Height of 






Calculated 


Estimated 


Barometer 
in inches. 


Degree of 
Thermometer. 


Stations. 


heights aboTe 

the level of 

the sea. 


heights. 


Attacheci. 


Detached. 


30.002 


59 


57 


Valparaiso, in a house, 


30 




28.683 


68 


57 


Summit, Alto de Valpa- 












raiso, 


1260 


1260 


29.023 


62 


60 


Post House, Peiiuelas, 


941 


941 


29.185 


57 


56 


Casablanca, 


745 


745 


28.972 


52 


51 


Vinilla, 


893 7 
9425 


917 


26.892 


42 


39 


Ditto, 


27.991 


51 


45 


Summit, Cuesta de Za- 












pata, 


1850 


1850 


28.355 


62 


61 


Curicavi, 


1560 


1560 


27.4 


75 


62 


Summit, Cuesta del 












Prado, 


2543 


2543 


28.184 


72 


65 


Post house, Prado, 


1773 


1773 


28.235 
28.188 


55 
62 


56 
65 


Santiago de Chile, 
Ditto, 


1665? 
17275 


1691 



NOTICES OP CHILE- 125 



CHAPTER IV. 

Fonda Ingl^sa and inmates — Fonda del Comercio and Fonda de la Nacion — 
Site of Santiago — Description of the city — Its founding — Plaza — Shops — 
Book stores — Dead bodies exposed before the prison early in the morning 
— Siesta — Shopping at night — Ladies — Costume. 

The Fonda Inglesa, or English Inn at Santiago, which is 
one story high, huilt round a patio, affords but miserable ac- 
commodations ; the rooms are contracted, dirty, and dark. 
The domestic regime of the Fonda reflects but little credit 
upon its executive, Don Guillermo, as the landlord is named. 
He is a Scotsman, aged perhaps forty-five, with a Burgundy 
face, and stooping shoulders, and may be seen at all times 
rolled up in a drab lion-skin coat, with mother of pearl but- 
tons, gazing on the billiard table, silently smoking a cigar. 

The billiard room is filled for two or three hours every 
night, with the fashionable young Chilenos, who play till eight 
or nine o'clock, when they depart to some tertrilia. Amongst 
them were several who had just returned from Europe, whither 
they had been sent for improvement in morals ; they dress in 
all the extravagance of Parisian fashion, and amuse themselves 
by ridiculing the priesthood of their own country, and dissemi- 
nating the Deistical and Atheistical principles acquired abroad. 
The only advantage gained by their visit to Paris, is the acqui- 
sition of the French language, which they speak fluently. To 
an intellectual young Chileno, 1 expressed a surprise that they 
did not embark on a political career in Chile, or at least do 
something to show the value of a visit to the old world. 
*' These young men," replied my friend, "were so depraved 
in mind and heart, that their parents sent them away in hopes 
of reforming them ; the success of the experiment may be seen 
by any one.'' 

Every day, about a dozen gentlemen resorted to the table 
d^hote. At one end sat a Buenosayrean, (by profession a law- 



126 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

yer and talking politician,) who, having been in England, spoke 
English well and rapidly. For some reason or other he was 
dubbed Sir James Mackintosh ! The opposite end was occu- 
pied by a man who called himself English or American, as 
occasion suited. He had been master of a merchant vessel, but 
through misfortune, or something worse, was sold out. Having 
lost his money, as well as his character, with his vessel, he at 
once called into requisition his talent for drawing, and in a 
very short time gained considerable reputation as a miniature 
painter. Ambitious in his new art, he quickly took to portraits, 
and in the opinion of the Chilian public, painted a la merveille. 
How frequently did he exclaim, "what an ass I have been to 
waste my time on miniatures at two ^ onzais' a piece, while I 
get six for a portrait! My dear Sir, these stupid people judge 
of the excellence of a picture only by its size V This gentle- 
man's pursuits had gained for him the cognomen of Sir Thomas 
Lawrence. This Sir Thomas was a strange compound. He 
frequently held a colloquy with a large water dog while he fed 
him. On such occasions he would exclaim, *'poor Pompey! — 
they say you have no soul — the rascals are not content to live 
three times as long as any other animal, but after that they 

must be immortal — and then, d n them, they keep their 

immortality to themselves, and shut out all other animals of 
this world ; but, Pompey, 'tis vanity ; for their clay will be 
as senseless as your own." To all of which Pompey replied 
by sagaciously wagging his tail, and looking grateful for the 
morsels of meat and consolation bestowed upon him. One day, 
while I was in his room, a party of young ladies came to look 
at a portrait of an old aunt, who still flourished at terttilias. 
Sir Thomas had invited them to suggest any improvements, 
and point out any faults that might be apparent in the picture, 
which represented a smiling countenance, in which time had 
been making his marks for five-and-forty years. The cap and 
ribbons were about half finished. Sir Thomas seated the ladies 
at a proper distance, and placed the picture in the most advan- 
tageous light, at the same time asking after the kind lady's 
health, and making a thousand trifling queries, accompanied 
with smiles and grimaces intended to be cheerful. Then tak- 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 127 

ing his stand beside the ladies, left foot in advance, left thumb 
in the arm hole of his vest, and his bottle-green frock thrown 
back ; while the right hand, by turns, pointed to the picture 
and stroked his long visage between the fingers and thumb, 
dropping the lower jaw as they reached his chin, he thus dis- 
coursed — " Well, ladies, there's a likeness for you — the mouth 
almost as rich as yours, Dona Panchita — (this was said with 
a bow) — and the eye still retains its fire ; it must have been, 
when young, like yours, Dona Maria ; — (another bow) — then 
the cheek, pale to be sure, possesses a " no se que" that I ad- 
mire. What a pity that time should take away the young bloom 
from so fine a face ! Now, when I look again, I think. Dona 
Carmencita, the cap is rather high, and the bow of ribbon on 
the left side is rather too blue — very little though; — dont 
you think so, Dona Rosita V 

"Quien sabe V replied the laughing girl. 
"You are right, ladies," continued Sir Thomas, "the cap 
is too high, and the ribbon a very little too blue ; the ladies, 
for taste in such matters, after all." The ladies really thought, 
as Sir Thomas wished, that they had suggested the faults in 
the cap and ribbons ; and agreed with him in every other re- 
spect. Like one of experience and tact in the world, he at once 
drew their attention to the miniatures of some young beaux, 
and then to some prints, keeping up their admiration to the 
last ; and on taking leave, assured them, in a low tone, that 
their aunt's portrait was his master-piece, and by no means a 
flattering likeness !" 

But to return to our table d'hote; a broken down English 
gentleman, much given to playing dice; a young Scotchman, 
gay in spite of misfortune, with an eye as bright and blue as 
the bonnet of velvet he wore on one side of his head ; a dump- 
ling looking Englishman, who d d his eyes if ever he 

had seen such toast, or such a set of ignorant, penurious rascals 
as were the officers of the Chilian government — because they 
would not pay him a sum of money, one-third of which was 
more than he could justly claim. These, with several others, 
whom I cannot characterize, usually filled the table ; they were 



128 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

indeed just such a set of cigar-smoking, chitty-chatty fellows 
as one might expect to meet with at such an inn. 

Only one of the sojourners have I omitted. He was secre- 
tary to the M — X — n Legation, and, in the absence of the mi- 
nister, felt himself elevated almost to a level with his patron, 
though nobody in the house would concur with him ; there- 
fore he treated them all with dignity. He eat his meals in 
silence, curled his lip, and wiped his knife and spoon on a 
cambric pocket handkerchief before he began. Poor fellow ! 
the ridicule of his fellow boarders drove him to housekeeping, 
and I am told, he keeps no company, because he thinks no 
one can appreciate his talents. 

A tall, big nosed, rosy cheeked, spectacled Frenchman 
sometimes took a seat among us ; he was remarkable for swal-^ 
lowing immense quantities of lettuce and claret, for cleaning 
his nails on his plate with a fork, and lolling back to pick his 
teeth, between the courses, with the same instrument. 

It is true, these are not of Chilian growth, but I look upon 
them as amongst the curiosities that a North American may 
meet with in travelling, and as such, (never having seen the like 
at home) I have sketched them. I do not believe that such a 
company, and such a dirty hotel, with such an inert landlord, 
can be found in any part of our country. Although I am by 
no means very nice or scrupulous in trifling matters, I could 
not endure the Fonda Inglesa longer than three days, and 
therefore adopted the plan of those Chilians who visit Santiago 
on business. They hire a furnished room or rooms, and either 
walk to one of the cafes for their meals, or have them brought 
to their lodgings. I took the former plan, and resorted to a 
cafe, which is adjoining to the cathedral, where I found a card 
as long as Verry's, from which to select. Every thing was 
new, neat, and very clean. The building was formerly the 
palace of the bishop of Chile, and of course extensive. It en- 
closes two or three courts, and has a hall for the reception of 
ladies, handsomely furnished with carpets, sofas, mirrors, lus- 
tres, and a piano. In the summer, after a promenade in the 
alameda, it is a fashionable resort to eat ices and confectionary. 
From twelve to three o'clock daily, this cafe is visited by a 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 129 

great number of business men of the city as well as strangers. 
The strangest mixture of people congregates here. The gay 
youth sips his chocolate or coffee with " bizcochuelo" or cake, 
beside the tonsured friar, regaling himself on a mutton chop 
and a bottle of claret. The countenances of some are severe 
and business like ; some light and careless, and others, dig- 
nified but mild. Parties of two, or three, or four, scattered 
over the long hall, around small tables, contrast with each 
other; some are talking in low tones, others are disputatious, 
others jocular, and others, again, only argumentative. Such is 
El Cafe del Comercio. Nearly opposite to it is another, called 
El Cafe de la Nacion, which is not so much frequented. Both 
are furnished with billiard tables. That game is as necessary 
to the happiness of a Chileno, and in fact to every man with 
Spanish blood in his veins, as eating or smoking cigars. 

Having established myself as comfortably a,s circumstances 
would allow, I at once commenced visiting and examining the 
few "lions" contained in the Chilian capital. 

The plain on which Santiago stands, extends about forty 
miles north and south, and fifteen east and west, being shut in 
on one side by the Andes, and on the other by Cuesta del Prado 
and the continuous hills. On the south it is bounded by the 
river Maypo, and on the north by the high hills beyond Colina. 

One of the most interesting coincidences within my know- 
ledge is, that all the colonies of Europe bear a striking resem- 
blance, in the features of the soil and landscape, to the mother 
country from which they respectively sprang. Who does not 
perceive the likeness between Portugal and Brazil ? No one 
can gaze from the summit of the Cuesta del Prado, upon the 
vega on which stands Santiago, without recurring to Granada, 
and a busy fancy may easily compare St. Lucia with the rock 
of the Alhambra, and going back to the early ages, see in the 
Araucanian and Spanish heroes in Chile, a repetition of the 
Castillians and Moors. The variety of arid plains, fertile val- 
leys, and snowy mountains, in the Spanish part of South Ame- 
rica, Mexico, Colombia, Peru, and Chile, produces a scenery 
strikingly like that of Spain, though the portrait is colossal in 
its dimensions. To carry out the comparison, is not the face 
17 



130 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

of the northern section of the United States something like that 
of England ? Now, it is not strange, that Chile and Peru should 
resemble Spain, but that the countries of Europe should dis- 
cover and settle lands similar to their own, is certainly re- 
markable ! 

The city is laid out in regular squares of four hundred and 
eight feet on each side, separated by streets forty-two feet 
broad, and of course, crossing each other at right angles. Their 
direction is nearly east and west, and north and south. They 
are paved with round pebbles, and have a trottoir of wrought 
flag stones on one side. Gutters are left in the centre, through 
which, during part of the day, flow streams of water from the 
river Mapocho, which passes the city on its north and western 
sides. These streams are useful in washing away the filth of 
the city, which is perhaps the cleanest in South America. The 
Mapocho also afibrds to the citizens the luxury of private and 
public baths. 

The architecture of the private dwellings, as well as that of 
the public buildings, is of the Moorish style. The houses are 
one and two stories high, built of " adobes," whitewashed out- 
side, and roofed with red tiles. Although the winter is cool, 
and snow is occasionally seen in the streets, very few houses, 
even of the best kind, have chimneys or hearths ; the rooms 
being warmed by '< braz^ros" of charcoal. The windows 
opening into the patio, are secured on the outside with orna- 
mental "rejas" or iron gratings, which are sometimes gilt, 
and closed on the inside by glazed sashes of tin. The small 
houses that open directly on the street, are closed by a double 
door, with a grated wicket about a foot square, in the upper 
part of one half of it, which is the only window in the dwell- 
ing. The best houses in Santiago, have been constructed by 
carpenters from the United States ; and in some cases, owing 
to the scarcity of suitable wood, the windows and doors, and a 
great part of the frame, already manufactured, have been im- 
ported from our country. 

The style of architecture, leaves two small rooms on each 
side of the " puertacalle," or great entrance, originally designed 
for porter's lodge and servant's room ,• but now, we find some 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 131 

of the finest dwellings disfigured by having these apartments 
rented for "pulperias," (dram-shops,) or for cobbler's stalls, 
where may be seen the disciple of St. Crispin, hammering at 
his last, and his sluttish wife employed at her needle, while a 
half dozen squalid, squalling brats are sprawling over the floor 
in filth and dirt. Whether this proceeds from carelessness of 
appearances, or from the desire of increasing revenue, I will 
not decide, though I am strongly inclined to the latter suppo- 
sition. 

The city of Santiago was founded on the 24th of February, 
1541, by Captain Pedro de Valdivia, and then called "Santi- 
ago DE LA NUEVA EsTREMADURA."* On the Outskirts of the 
city there is a small house, sunk below the level of the street, 
said to be that occupied by the founder ; with what truth, how- 
ever, I must leave to antiquarians to discover. 

The plaza is nearly in the centre of the city, and occupies 
an entire square. On the north-western side are the presiden- 
tial mansion, the palace of the government, the prison, and the 
courts of justice ; forming altogether a fine white building, be- 
fore the several doors of which sentries are always on post. 
On the south-western side stand the cathedral, and the old 
palace of the bishop of Chile, now occupied as the Caf6 del Co- 
mercio. The cathedral is but half finished, though it was com- 
menced more than sixty years since. It is in the Moorish 
style, and is the only stone building in the capital ; all the 
others being of <* adobes," whitewashed. The south-eastern 
side of the square, is a " portal" or portico, occupied below by 
drygood shops, and above, by private residences. On the north- 
eastern side are the Caf6 de la Nacion, and a number of " tien- 
das" or shops, which are closed by rough doors, secured on 
the outside, when the shop keepers are abroad, by great pad- 
locks of a coarse fabric. 

At the eastern side of the city, is a high conical hill of gra- 
nite, called Santa Lucia, upon which are a fortress, a barrack, 
and a powder magazine. The fortress was built by the Spa- 
niards, not very long after the foundation ; it completely com- 

* Heirera. Histdria de las Indias Occidentales. 



132 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

mands the city, and was probably erected to check rebellion 
and internal commotions. From the top of this hill, the city 
and the vicinity are spread out like a map at the feet of the 
beholder, presenting to him the streets, and the surrounding 
villas and gardens, at a single coup d^ceil. Almost every house 
has a garden attached to it. From this cause the city extends 
over much more ground than an equal population (not exceed- 
ing forty thousand,) would require in our country. 

The plaza, in Spanish towns, is always a busy spot. The 
fountain in the centre is constantly visited by the " aguad&res," 
filling and carrying away water; the small retail shops sur- 
rounding the square, filled with a variety of articles, (for trade 
has not yet become sub-divided into branches, as in the large 
cities of Europe and the United States,) attract many pur- 
chasers ; along the trottoir are sprinkled baskets of various 
produce; horsemen in ponchos and straw hats, are dashing 
across the plaza, and every variety of vehicle, from the quick- 
moving coach and four, through the grades of "cal6sa," and 
gig, to the lumbering carr6ta, may be seen pursuing their re- 
spective routes. 

Almost every shop has on its shelves a few books, consisting 
chiefly of French translations and ecclesiastical works. There 
is no book store in the place ; the largest collection is displayed 
amidst hardware and cutlery. Although so very popular, I 
was unable to procure a copy of Don Quixote in the city. 

Early in the morning, at the prison door, may be seen, 
almost every day, one or two dead bodies, stretched out upon 
the stones, with a plate upon the breast, to collect alms for their 
interment. These are the result of the horrid practice of de- 
ciding personal disputes amongst the lower orders by having 
recourse to the murderous knife, instead of the more rational 
and innocent plan of John Bull's descendants, of bruising each 
other with the weapons nature gave them — their fists. At the 
*' pulperlas," where the *<peones" resort at night, to drink 
<'chicha" and "aguardiente" (brandy), and sing and dance to 
the sound of harp and guitar, disputes frequently arise when 
the brain becomes heated by strong drink. Then the poncho 
is rolled around the left arm, to be used as a shield, and the 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 133 

knife, constantly worn at the back, is seized in the right hand, 
and the antagonists are encircled by a ring of by-standers, to 
see what gentlemen of "the science of defence" have been 
pleased to term fair play. The dexterity in the use of the 
weapon, which they manage like a rapier, in the lunge and 
garde, is truly surprising. The attack is fierce on both sides. 
Death of one of the parties, or severe wounds, are the certain 
consequence of such rencontres ; hence it is, that foreigners are 
under the impression that assassination is a common crime 
amongst Chilenos. Yet, the practice, having strict regard to 
the term, can hardly be said to be frequent ; for we should 
hardly say that a man is assassinated, who falls by an unlucky 
blow in a fist fight. 

After two o'clock, until near sunset, the plaza is almost de- 
serted, the shops are closed, and every body is enjoying the 
si6sta. About six o'clock all is again awake, the shops are 
open, and the square is crowded with ladies, shopping, or pass- 
ing to and from the Alam6da. They walk unattended by gen- 
tlemen, with the head uncovered, except occasionally by a veil 
tb la Madonna, and the hair ornamented with natural flowers. 
This custom gives them a degree of independence, not enjoyed 
by the ladies in the United States ; nor are they ever insulted 
by being impertinently accosted. 



CHAPTER V. 



Tajamar— Military Academy— Militia System— San Lunes— Alameda— An 
evening visit — Card playing — National Institute — Schools — Socieddd Filar- 
mdnica — Otavario — Procession — ^Praying for rain — State of medicine and 
pharmacy. 

Along the bank of the river Mapocho is built a wall, about 
six feet high and four feet broad, with a walk on the top, pav- 
ed with small pebbles, and a parapet next to the water. At 
convenient distances are steps from the ground, made of stone. 



134 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

From its offering a barrier to the waters of the river during 
freshets, it is termed the <'Tajamar," or breakwater ; and is a 
fashionable promenade of a Sunday afternoon, for ladies and 
gentlemen, rich and poor. The whole world walk on the top 
of the wall, or rest on the parapet, gazing at the pomp and 
grandeur of the scenery, or at the passing multitude. The 
river is seen, split into several channels by beds of gravel, 
brawling in its course from the lofty Cordilleras, and disap- 
pearing under a stone bridge of several arches, which leads 
from the city to a suburb called La Canadilla. When the 
glow of sunset tinges the eternal snows of the mountains, 
and the hills on the opposite side of the river begin to grow 
dark in approaching twilight, the scene is grand beyond de- 
scription. The plain upon which the city stands is so high 
that the atmosphere refracts the light in such a manner as to 
deceive the eye in estimating distance. One feels tempted to 
stretch out the hand from the street, and place it against the 
side of the mountains ; yet they are twenty miles distant ! 

In the neighborhood of the Tajamar, are the cockpit and 
ball alley, where gentlemen play at the game of " fives." Both 
places are crowded on Sundays and festivals, by the young 
gentlemen of the city. 

Monday being a military day, I visited the military acade- 
my, lately established in this city. It contains at present eighty 
cadets, who are taught every thing pertaining to the profession 
of arms, by professors, who are either Frenchmen or English- 
men. The pupils are designed for ofiicers of the army and mi- 
litia, which is established on a plan well adapted to instruct 
the whole male population of the country in the use of arms. 
The men are armed and exercised every Monday afternoon, 
in companies and regiments, in the Alameda de la Canada. 
As the shopkeepers are prohibited from opening their shops on 
that afternoon, till after the parade be over, the day is face- 
tiously termed << San Ldnes," or Saint Monday. The same 
plan is established in every town and village throughout the 
country. The review draws crowds of ladies to witness the 
evolutions, and some to see the young beaux in gay uniforms, 
strutting before their men, whose dark Indian visages contrast 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 135 

strongly with their entirely white dress. They are a stout and 
brave race; and from their constant habit of sleeping in the 
open air, and faring hardly, rnake excellent soldiers. 

There are several fine military bands, which add much to 
the display. It is in the Alameda that the whole beauty and 
fashion of Chile ma)'^ be seen strolling along the shady walks 
in gay attire, on fine afternoons ; in fact I have never seen any 
where so many good looking women as in the Alam6da, on 
a Sunday, in the summer, just before sunset. The Alameda 
is about a mile long, and one hundred feet wide, planted with 
double rows of poplar trees, having streams of water running 
between them, and white stone seats, in their shade, at conve- 
nient distances. It is the finest promenade in South America, 
and is kept in excellent order. Every evening in the summer 
it is a place of general resort. Gentlemen enjoy the " cigarrito," 
and ladies bons-bons and trifles beneath the trees. Boys mani- 
fest their early propensities for gambling, by placing two chips 
or two pieces of water melon in the stream, and stake small 
sums upon which will beat in the race, running along the edge, 
shouting and laughing, as they keep way with the objects of 
their interest. 

On a Sunday evening I visited an elderly lady of the haut 
ton of Santiago. The house of Dona Xavi6ra is a large one, 
and resembles most of the fashionable mansions of the city. It 
is one story high, with a great " puertacalle" opening from 
the street into a large patio, paved with small pebbles, in such 
a manner as to give it the appearance of being tesselated. 
Sleeping rooms look into it from right and left, while the side 
parallel with the street, and farthest from it, is taken up by the 
<* Sala" and " Cuddra" — hall and drawing room. The " Cud- 
dra'* is a large apartment, with a high ceiling, separated from 
the <* Sala" by a glass partition, constructed of large panes, 
the edges of which lap over each other, instead of being se- 
cured in a sash. The furniture of the cuddra is remarkable for 
the abundance of chairs and sofas, ranged in two confronting 
lines. There are two mirrors on the same side of the wall, 
with a table beneath each, having "guardabrlsas," or candle- 
shades upon them, far too costly and beautiful to guard from 



136 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the air the indifferently clean tallow candles burning in them. 
Spermaceti candles are only used on special occasions, and 
lamps are seldom seen. 

The sala is quite as large as the cuddra itself, but furnished 
in a less expensive style. It is the apartment where the family 
ordinarily sit, and receive familiar friends. I passed through 
the sala, and as I made my way to the cuidra, perceived through 
the partition that it was filled with company. Two card tables 
were spread out ; at one of which a party was playing at 
" malilla" — a fashionable game at cards — and at the other was 
Dona Paulita, the only daughter of Dona Xaviera, and opposite 
to her a Canonigo. On his left Dona Jesusita, a cousin of Dona 
Paulita, and opposite to her Don Manuel, an intimate of the 
family. They were laughing over a simple game, called "ten- 
derete." A young gentleman was seated at the piano, playing 
a quadrille, while several were standing in the centre of the 
room, talking, and smoking "hojitas." A large, good natured, 
greasy looking friar, sat chatting with a toothless lady, near 
the table of the young people ; such was the aspect when 1 en- 
tered. The music ceased ; not on account of deference, but be- 
cause their visiter was an old acquaintance, who had the credit 
of having saved the life of Dona Paulita's uncle. After the 
usual salutation, the card players continued their games ; but 
the young gentlemen exerted themselves for my entertainment. 
I drew a chair near Dona Paulita, and seated myself to observe 
the game, and enjoy the humor and wit that were flowing 
from the good Can&nigo. He possessed an intelligent counte- 
nance, keen black eyes, and silky black hair, and was not more 
than thirty-five years of age. His fine figure was displayed in 
a single breasted frock coat, with standing collar, buttoned to 
the throat. His tonsure was neat, and, upon the whole, he was 
the handsomest, as well as the tidiest priest I remember to have 
met in South America. The game of " tenderete" was soon 
changed for another, called ''brisca," which is something like 
whist; instead, however, of counting tricks, the face cards count 
ten, and whichever side takes most, wins. Moreover, the 
players are allowed to trump or not, as they may deem most 
advantageous. Don Manuel very politely offered to resign his 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 137 

seat to me, but I preferred sitting near Dofia Paulita,* even had 
I been previously initiated into the mysteries of " brisca/' The 
Can&nigo established the forfeit to be, that whoever lost, should 
be obliged to make a number of faces and grimaces for the di- 
version of the company. He was the first to lose, and paid in 
some very droll and whimsical changes of countenance, which 
would have been creditable even to a man of lighter profession 
than that of a Catholic priest. As mirth and amusement were 
the object of the game, this mode of gambling, without dimi- 
nishing the weight of the purse, did less injury to the better 
feelings of the heart, than betting gold, while it ensured a hearty 
laugh, both to winners and losers. 

After some time. Dona Paulita said, <' you did not come to 
dine to day. We waited from four till near six o'clock" — 

" Yes," interrupted the can&nigo, "the second course was 
eaten by candle light, and what was worse, nearly cold !" 

I was surprised to learn that I had been expected. I had 
received, the day before, an invitation to walk in the Alameda 
after dinner, but I did not go, in consequence of the afternoon 
being disagreeably cold and rainy. My explanation was re- 
ceived, and the can&nigo chided Dona Paulita for not having 
been more particular in her invitation. Dona Xavi^ra was not 
present, because, as the daughter told me, " tuvo dolores de 
barriga," and had laid down. 

Tea and mat6 were brought. Several mat6s were circulating 
at the same time. The canonigo and cousin took theirs while 
playing the game. It is droll to see a pretty young lady suck- 
ing mate through a silver bombilla, hot enough to burn the lips 
of those ignorant of the mode of taking it. 

At eight o'clock the fat friar took his leave, and the old lady 
assisted Dona Paulita in the game with her advice. The ca- 
n&nigo made a move as if to depart, evidently with a wish to 
remain. "Do not go, Padre,'^ exclaimed the young lady, 
" omit the * misa' of to-night, and say two to-morrow instead." 
The holy man assented, and resumed the game. The evening 
passed away gaily, and at eleven, I bade my friends good night. 

* Paulita is the diminutive and kinder term for Paula. 
18 



138 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Amongst the guests was a Chileno, who had been in the 
United States as Charg6 d'affaires. Speaking of our country, 
and those things which struck him as curious, he told the gen- 
tlemen that our " prisons are secure without military guards, 
and that he had seen no soldiers in the country except the vo- 
lunteer corps on holy-days ;" contrasted with the countries of 
South America, where even the municipal police consists of 
soldiers, this circumstance is striking. This gentleman re- 
marked further, that "previous to the revolution of 1829, 
Chile had advanced in slow, sure steps ; but since that period 
society had split into political parties, and the social intercourse 
created and cherished by the Sociedad Filarmonica had al- 
most ceased." 

The Philharmonic Society was instituted in 1827, for im- 
proving and fostering the native taste for music, and creating 
a more generally social intercourse. The entertainments were 
given weekly, and consisted of music, both instrumental and 
vocal, by ladies and gentlemen — conversation and dancing — 
the native fandangos were proscribed. The beneficial effects 
of this society upon the general taste for music is very mani- 
fest. Before its institution, nothing was heard but a few 
waltzes, contradances, and marches, on the piano, or simple 
native songs, accompanied by the guitar ; and ten years ago, 
pianos were rare in the country, (an instrument styled the 
clav6 being a substitute), but now they are found in almost 
every house. At that time music was taught by imitation, or 
parrot-like, without principles, or written or printed music. 
As late as 1828, 1 saw young ladies following the fingers of the 
master, learning a few bars at a time, and by practice fixing 
them in the memory. Now, on the contrary, the compositions 
of the first German and Italian masters, Mozart, Von Weber, 
Rossini, Paccini, &c., are performed by the young ladies with 
great taste and execution. This love of music has led to the 
study of the Italian, French, and English languages ; and it 
is by no means uncommon to meet with young ladies, who 
read and speak one or more of these tongues with tolerable 
propriety. 

Education and the diffusion of knowledge appear to occupy 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 139 

a great share of the public attention in Chile. Experience has 
taught, that the South American republics will never be tran- 
quil or happy, while military prowess and glory dazzle the 
minds of the people, who want the lights of knowledge to en- 
able them to estimate correctly the nature of their rights and 
privileges. Convinced of this fact, the legislature has labored 
to establish schools in every section of the country. The con- 
vents have been required to open free schools, for instructing 
children in reading, writing, morals, urbanity — a branch much 
neglected in our common schools — and arithmetic, on the Lan- 
casterian plan. Besides, every encouragement is given to pri- 
vate schools for both sexes. 

El Instituto Nacional was established in 1821, on the 
debris of a college which existed during the reign of Fer- 
dinand VII. It is adjoining to an old Jesuistical church, called 
La Campania, the front of which is ornamented with no less 
than seven representations of the Saviour. In the Institute 
are taught Latin, English, French, mathematics, geography, 
grammar, and what are very expressively denominated "las pri- 
meras letras" or elements — the last on the Lancasterian plan. 
Roman law is also taught. The college is supported by an ap- 
propriation derived from the church tithes, and the fees of the 
resident pupils, who pay each one hundred dollars annually. 
Day scholars attend gratis. 

When I visited the Institute, the geography class was re- 
citing. The professor gave the cardinal points of the compass 
to a boy, and directed him to supply, on the black board, the 
intermediate ones ; then required him to describe the figure of 
the earth, which was very readily done. In another apart- 
ment, a class in mathematics was reciting. At one end of the 
room stood the pedagogue, " with spectacles on nose," beside 
a rough table, upon which was a fragment of an earthen vessel 
containing a coal of fire, flanked by a cigar case ; the dominie 
was not smoking. A boy of about twelve years of age was 
demonstrating a problem in geometry ; — how to find a centre 
for a circle, which should cut three given points. The pupil 
seemed to be au fait, and convinced us that he understood 
what he was saying. I was requested, by both professors, to 



140 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

propose any questions to any of the students, that I might sa- 
tisfy myself of their progress. This I declined, because I was 
a foreigner, and unwilling to risk questions which I might fail 
in making understood. 

Thursday, the 2Sth of June, was a holy-day, called the "Ota- 
vdrio," from "ocho" and "diario," the eighth day after Cor- 
pus. At each corner of the plaza was erected a temporary altar, 
decorated with saints, candles, and tinsel. On one sat St. Peter, 
all alone with his keys, and another represented the descent 
from the cross. During half the morning, there were crowds 
about the corners, looking on the erection and decoration of 
the altars, by the <'peones," under the supervision of several 
padres. The ornaments consisted of looking glasses, shells, 
candles, silk, and tinsel ; the saints were borrowed from differ- 
ent churches for the occasion. 

At four o'clock in the afternoon, several regiments marched 
into the plaza, and formed two squares, single file, one within 
the other, leaving a space of forty feet between them, for the 
passage of the procession. The centre of the square was crowd- 
ed with ladies, all in the usual black, church-going habiliments, 
consisting of the mantilla or veil, and a black dress. The win- 
dows of the neighboring houses, from which hung silk and 
velvet banners of various colors, were crowded with ladies 
and gentlemen. Over the doors of the houses in the principal 
streets, flags were displayed, some half-mast, and others union 
down, not intentionally, but through careless indifference. At 
twilight, the candles on the several altars were lighted, the 
bells rang, and guns were fired from the fortress on St. Lucia. 
At the same time, the procession began to issue from the cathe- 
dral, which was brilliantly illuminated. First came *' La Co- 
frddia," or brotherhood of the " Hermdnos de Nuestro Amo" 
— Brothers of Our Master — wearing white satin capes, em- 
broidered with gold, in two single files, each one bearing a 
long wax candle. Then the friars of the several orders, each 
one being accompanied by its respective banner or symbol, 
■consisting of a gaudy silk drum, surmounted by a cross borne 
aloft in the air. Next followed the cadets, in full dress, from 
the Military Academy, and a Can&nigo, chanting a psalm, pre- 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 141 

ceding "Su Magestdd," or The Host, carried by priests, be- 
neath a silken canopy, supported by silver or silvered sticks. 
As this passed, every body knelt upon the ground. Next fol- 
lowing was the President of Chile, in a General's uniform, 
and the Cabinet Ministers, each bearing a candle. Near them 
was a boy of ten years old, a descendant from the Carreras, 
so celebrated in the Revolution, dressed in a colonel's uniform. 
He is now educating at the Military Academy. President 
Pinto, with consent of Congress, made him his aid, as a reward 
for the distinguished services of his family. Close after, fol- 
lowed the Presidential guard, and a corps of cavalry, with a 
mounted brass band. In this order the procession moved round 
the whole square, stopping for a short time before each altar, 
while the censer smoked, and prayers ascended. The different 
bands were playing in succession, guns were firing, bells were 
ringing, and every body was uncovered. As the Host passed 
them, the soldiers knelt on one knee, in platoons, their heads 
bent on their breasts. The crowd in the rear imitated the ex- 
ample. 

The procession re-entered the cathedral, the saints were re- 
turned to their dark niches with due formality, after having 
been aired all day in the plaza, and the whole show soon dis- 
appeared ; — at eight o'clock the plaza presented the usual 
nightly scene of flickering lights, ladies walking and shopping. 

Similar processions (of which I witnessed two or three) are 
made in seasons of drought, in honor of some influential saint, 
to obtain his or her intercession with the clouds to dispense 
their fertilizing showers ! The efiicacy of such ceremonies is 
a matter of grave belief, because the wily priests wait till there 
is every prospect of rain, before they begin to pray, and thus 
iheprofanum vulgus are deceived into credence. The prayers 
are more successful at one time than at another ; for I am told 
that the whole ecclesiastic corps have labored incessantly at 
devotion, during a whole week, without drawing a single drop 
of water from the sky ! 

The hospitals of Santiago are not equal to similar institutions 
in other parts of the world, as respects the comforts and at- 
tentions afforded to the sick. That of San Juan de Dies, has 



142 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

several wards, all illy ventilated, containing two hundred and 
thirty patients, of whom one hundred and three were suffering 
with small pox. These cases were not separated from the rest. 
In the surgical wards, were several with knife wounds, re- 
ceived in midnight brawls in the suburbs. This hospital is 
under the direction of English physicians. 

As in Spain, the profession of medicine is lowly estimated 
in Chile, yet efforts have been made to elevate the standing of 
its members in society, and with considerable success. In 
1836, Doctor William Blest, an English practitioner, publish- 
ed in Santiago, some " Observations on the Actual State of 
Medicine in Chile," in which he assigns its low state to the 
want of a liberal education in those who enter the profes- 
sion, the want of a proper system of medical instruction, 
and to the slender fees paid for their services. Several of 
the medical men of Santiago are mulattoes. Within two or 
three years a board of examiners has been established, who, 
without any regard to certificates or diplomas, from universi- 
ties or colleges, examine the candidates for practice in Latin, 
Spanish, and the several branches of the healing art, in the 
most rigid manner. This board is chiefly made up of European 
physicians, who have long been established in the country. 
In order to prevent any from practising who have not re- 
ceived a license from the board, apothecaries are prohibited, 
under severe penalties, from compounding their prescriptions. 
Apothecaries study pharmacy and chemistry for three years, 
and undergo a practical examination before they are allowed 
to open a shop. In this way quackery is effectually put down, 
and medicine is fast gaining rank and consideration amongst 
the people. Several of the best families are now educating 
their children for « the healing art." It is to be regretted, that 
some similar plan cannot be adopted in the United States, to 
free the country from the numerous charlatans who tamper 
with the health and lives of our citizens. 

Physicians receive a fee of four reals, equal to fifty cents, 
paid at each visit ; and in consultations, which are frequent, 
four dollars. I am informed that one or two practitioners, in 
extensive practice, wear leather pockets, because the angular 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 143 

pieces of silver soon cut out those made of cloth. Instances of 
generosity towards medical men are not rare — I have heard of 
a pair of horses being presented in one case, and two hundred 
dollars in another. 

The Chilians possess generous feelings in many respects. 
The moneys raised by subscription for charitable purposes, 
such as the relief of a widow or an orphan, amount to con- 
siderable sums. I have before me a list of persons, who have 
subscribed, in a few days, more than two thousand dollars, for 
the relief of widows whose husbands fell in one of those petty 
revolutions which have so frequently disturbed the quiet of 
the country. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Visit Colina — Law of primogeniture — A senator — A family dinner — Face of 
the country — ^Ploughing — Sowing — Baths — Friar of San Felipe — Don Jose 
— Return to Valparaiso — Storm on the road. 

On the 10th of July, 1832, I left Santiago for Colina, situ- 
ated close under the Andes, about seven leagues to the north- 
ward of the Chilian capital. It is a scattering village or town- 
ship, having a small chapel and a few ranches (huts) around it, 
encircled by the great chain of the Cordilleras, and their moun- 
tain spurs. The curate is one of the most important personages 
in the place ; he is conversable, fond of an " hoja," a glass of 
wine, or brandy and water, and a half hour's chat of a morning. 
The neighbprhood is made up of several " chdcras," or small 
farms, and one or two « haciendas," or estates of great extent j 
that on which I sojourned, contained fifty square miles, and 
yielded twenty-five thousand dollars worth of wheat annually. 
These "haciendas" have been very much in the way of the 
advancement of this country, for the Spanish law, preserving 



144 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

them entire, placed all the real property in the hands of a few 
individuals, and caused it to descend from father to the eldest 
son, ad infinitum. However necessary the law of primogeni- 
ture may be to monarchical governments, for preserving an 
aristocracy, it is certainly unsuited to a republic; and for that 
reason, the " mayorazgo," or eldership, is now done away 
with, except in the cases of eldest sons born before the repeal 
of the law by the Chilian congress. The proprietors of these 
estates are petty princes in the land, who have depending upon 
them from three to five hundred poor families. Desiring only 
to be left to the quiet enjoyment of their farms, they seldom 
care for or engage actively in public afl'airs. The lord of the 
estate where I was, is a senator, and though his country resi- 
dence is but twenty miles from the capital, he has not been 
more than three times in his seat during the present session. 
Yet he owns one of the finest houses in town, and says he will 
not go to the senate unless sent for. " Para que Amigo ! Why 
should I, friend, there are enough there without me !" Don 
Vicente, as he is named, leads the life of a prince. He rises 
at nine, breakfasts at ten, saunters in a small flower garden 
with a cigar, laughs for a half hour over Don Quixote, of which 
he has a beautiful edition ; and by an occasional ride, or a game 
at chess with the curate, a sly joke or hon mot with some of 
the ladies, he manages to get through the day till three o'clock, 
when he dines. After dinner, which occupies about two hours, 
when alone, he smokes and dozes away the afternoon and even- 
ing, till ten o'clock, at which time he sups heartily, and retires 
to bed about twelve. Almost every night, however, the curate 
engages him at chess or cards, and between the two, the ladies 
are kept laughing the whole evening. It is hardly necessary 
to say that Don Vicente is a short, corpulent, good humored 
gentleman — ^fac simile of Sancho Panza in person, whom he 
admires with all his heart. He loves his family, is just and 
charitable to his dependants, and does not care the snap of a 
finger for any body beyond them. Nor does he wish to receive 
a line from any body, no matter what the intimacy may have 
been. "If I hear of their prosperity," says he, "I am glad; 
if they are unfortunate, I am sorry, — ' Que mas ! y amigo, pa- 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 145 

ra que molestdrme con sus cartas.' What more — and my friend, 
why should they trouble me with their letters !" 

In the neighborhood there is another gentleman, less 
wealthy, and of a more ordinary stamp than the senator, being 
shrewd but uneducated ; that is, he lives without recurring to 
books for society or conversation. Don Ambrosio is a great 
rough figure, six feet high, with a roguish blue eye and curly 
hair, and perhaps forty-five years of age. He has a second 
wife, a son, and thirteen daughters, four of whom are marriage- 
able. 

About twelve o'clock on the second day of my arrival at 
Colina, Don Ambrosio came in, dressed, as is usual with 
country gentlemen riding about their estates, in a poncho, botas 
and spurs. After seating himself, he commenced conversation 
with me, by saying several " good things," and some piquant 
phrases of double meaning, by way of ascertaining, as he after- 
wards confessed, what my knowledge of Spanish might be. Pre- 
sently some glasses, wine, brandy, &c. were placed on the table, 
and Don Ambrosio was invited to drink. "Bueno — vamos, un 
traguito. " Agreed, let us take a small glass. When prepared, 
he looked at it, and said, holding the glass between his eye and 
the light, "Pues, Senores, no tengo sed; tengo buena apeten- 
cia ; tengo buena sal6d ; duermo bien, como bien, mi muger no 
se queja ; — ^ y para que lo tomar6 ? — no quiero tomarlo — " 
<* Well, gentlemen, I am not thirsty ; I have a good appetite ; 
my health is good ; I sleep well, I eat well, my wife does not 
complain; and why shall I take it? I will not" — and he put 
down the glass, and pushed it away without tasting. 

While out in the fields shooting, the next day after his visit, 
I met Don Ambrosio on horseback. He dismounted and car- 
ried me oflf to his "olivdr" or olive grove, to shoot wild pigeons, 
which were numerous, and afterwards insisted upon my "doing 
penance with him," as the phrase is, that is, dining with him. 

The table was spread in the Spanish style, with covers for 
sixteen persons, and as many high backed chairs placed round 
it. About three o'clock we were seated, Don Ambrosio at the 
head, his wife on the left, and I on his right, while the thir- 
teen daughters took their places, according to age, right and 
19 



146 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

left, the youngest being at the foot. The son was absent. 
The dinner was served up on silver, dish after dish, to the 
number of thirteen, commencing with soup, and ending with 
roast beef. The intermediate dishes were all compounded, 
or made in the form of hashes, stews, &c. Besides the wine 
of the country, and " chicha," there was very excellent claret. 
The desert, consisting of pudding, sweetmeats, and fruit, 
was succeeded by a large silver basin of water, and a towel, 
into which each one dipped the ends of her fingers, wet 
and wiped her lips, and then pushed it on to the next. As the 
fingers frequently supply the place of forks during the repast, 
this practice is certainly necessary and commendable. Before 
beginning to eat, Don Ambrosio, in a reverent manner, invoked 
a blessing, and after the meal, returned thanks, which was the 
signal for the younger children to retire. 

Don Ambrosio and his lady were lively, and, it is hardly 
necessary to add, polite, for all the natives, from the president 
to the beggar, are so. During dinner, he asked me which one 
of his daughters I thought handsomest ; even if they had not 
been present, it was a question not easy to answer, and I there- 
fore requested to be allowed to withhold my decision till I had 
become better acquainted. Four of them were from fifteen to 
nineteen years of age, and one was to be married in a few 
weeks. After dinner, my hospitable host gave me a cigar, and 
begged to be excused, while he should give directions to some 
workmen who were employed on the estate, adding, " when 
I am present the girls are as quiet as lambs, but let me be out 
of sight, and they are more noisy than so many chattering par- 
rots. If you are afraid of them, I will carry you with me ; but 
I dare say you will find them musical, and if they wont sing 
and play, my wife will, and they shall dance for you. Adios 
— dont make love to more than two of them at a time." 

So soon as he had disappeared, I found the young ladies very 
entertaining, and every thing a father could wish j they played, 
sang, and chatted until tea and «mat6" were brought, and 
Don Ambrosio returned. The evening passed pleasantly, and 
about nine o'clock, (though the distance was not more than a 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 147 

quarter of a mile,) I returned home on horseback, attended by 
a servant. 

The hospitality and kindness of the Chilians towards stran- 
gers, cannot be exceeded (if equalled) in any part of the world. 
Yet it is difficult for a stranger to form a correct estimate of the 
national character. A friend of more than ordinary intelligence 
and observation, who has resided several years in Chile, speak- 
ing of the native character, says, "they are a fickle race ; their 
affections lie altogether on the surface; their feelings are not 
deep seated, and of course cannot be permanent; they are easi- 
ly excited, and^as readily become indifferent.'' But such is the 
influence of the climate, and other circumstances, that he thinks 
few young Americans would live willingly in the United States, 
after spending three years in Santiago. There is certainly a 
charm about Chile that few foreigners can resist — indeed it is 
a proverb, for which there are abundant data, that all persons 
who visit the country once, will do so a second time. 

The face of the country around Colina is overgrown by 
several kinds of thorn trees, amongst which the algarrobo or 
carrob stands conspicuous. It bears a bean, which, when used 
medicinally in an infusion, is said to be a very powerful aphro- 
disiac. The tree grows to the size of a common peach ; the 
fruit is used for feeding animals, and the wood for fuel. The 
*' espinos" or thorn bushes overgrow wheat fields and pasture 
grounds, and are always cut even with the soil at the time of 
ploughing and sowing, which take place after the first rain in 
the month of June. On a large haci6nda, this operation pre- 
sents an interesting and animated scene. 1 saw a hundred and 
sixteen pairs of oxen and as many ploughs* working at the 
same time. They were marched and countermarched like 
troops of soldiers. Each ox had its name, and each ploughman 
was shouting and goading at the same time, presenting a spec- 
tacle not easily described. Like every thing in Chile, the ope- 
ration of sowing wheat is performed on horseback. The sower 
carries before him, on the pommel of his saddle, a quantity of 



* The plough is a simple spike, not diiFering materially from that of the. an- 
cient Romans. 



148 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

seed in his poncho, which he holds with one hand, while with 
the other he scatters it over the ground as the horse walks 
along. 

As the rains are not always sufficiently copious, the fields 
are irrigated by " acequias" or shallow gutters, running in 
every direction through them. Every estate requiring water, 
which is scarce, pays a rent or tax to have it at stated periods 
after the grain is sown, until it becomes ripe enough to har- 
vest. The water is derived solely from mountain streams. 

The scenery around Colina is of the grandest character. The 
Cordilleras, ever robed in snow, stand close at hand, and send 
offspurs two or three thousand feet in height in every direc- 
tion. In the winter the atmosphere is clear, the sky is of the 
purest azure, and the stars cannot be more brilliant in any part 
of the world. When the moon shines on the cold mountain 
snows, and all is hushed in silence, except the occasional wild 
shriek of the quiltr6gui,* the scene is truly sublime, requiring 
all the warmth of poetic description to portray it to the ima- 
gination of those who have not seen it. 

Colina is celebrated in Chile for the thermal springs in the 
neighborhood, which are visited by invalids and valetudina- 
rians from all points, to drink and bathe in their waters. No 
accurate analysis has yet been made of them ; they are said to 
contain both antimony and sulphur. 

One morning while at breakfast, a friar from San Felipe, a 
small town to the northward, called at our house, and desired 
permission to visit a mill on the premises. When we saw him 
at the door, I thought he might be a true copy of the renowned 
friar Tuck, for, besides a short rotund figure, he had a swag- 
gering air, wore a gay poncho, botas, a straw hat, secured by 
a black cord knotted on one side of the face, having tassels 
five or six inches long swinging below the chin. His counte- 
nance was calm, but it was the calmness of determined courage, 



• The quiltr^gui is a species of horned plover, which frequents near habi- 
tations ; at night it shrieks in the most melancholy manner at the approach of 
any one, or on hearing any unusual sound. For this reason, they are cherished 
by the farmers, who value them as if they were so many dogs. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 149 

and not that of the meekness of religion. He rode a stout black 
horse, with a valise on his back, and at the saddle bow a long 
double barrelled Spanish fowling piece with brass mountings, 
the whole so highly polished, even to the barrels, that it would 
have done credit to a marine Serjeant, and pleased the eye of 
the most rigid martinet. Like his prototype, our friar Tuck 
was fond of "creature comforts," and occasionally indulged 
his " inward man ;" for, after telling us of the fatigue of riding 
over bad roads, feeble health from vigils and fasting, he beg- 
ged, as a particular favor, that we would replenish his bottle 
with gin, which somehow or other had been emptied on the 
way. His bottle was filled, after he had tasted of the quality 
of the liquor, of which he said, "viene bien al paladdr" — it falls 
well on the palate — as he smacked his lips. Having lighted a 
cigar, he threw himself agilely into the saddle, saying as he 
cantered off, " Dios le pague !" — may God reward you. 

Amongst our visiters was an ''old" Spaniard named Don 
Jos6, who was noted for story telling and amiability. He fre- 
quently lamented the change in times and civilization. "In 
my memory," he was wont to say, "ladies required a long 
training before they were admitted into society ; but now, they 
catch a young girl who is frisking and playing with her doll, 
wash and dress her clean, send her to school, where she is 
taught to read and write, and repeat the multiplication table, 
and at the end of three weeks she is broken into an accom- 
plished miss, (' Dona graci&sa'), capable of getting through a 
tune on the piano, and aufait in all the small talk of the day!" 
JFemale perception is wonderfully quick in Chile ! 

In spite of the diversion of killing pigeons, hunting condors, 
witnessing the making of "tapias" or mud walls, examining 
the dry and the green hedges, and observing men in retire- 
ment, a month saw me dying with ennui, and consequently 
on my way to Valdivia's city ; and in a few days, I set out on 
mj return to Valparaiso. 

My compagnon de voyage was an elderly Chil^no, who 
-amused me the whole way by telling stories, and pointing out 
spots where murder had been committed, marked by rude 
wooden crosses, some of them of lath : — 



150 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

*' And here and there, as up the crag you spring, 
Mark many rude carved crosses near the path ; 
Yet deem not these Devotion's offering — 
These are frail memorials of murderous wrath ; 
For wheresoe'er the shrieking victim hath 
Poured forth his blood beneath the assassin's knife, 
Some hand erects a cross of mouldering lath ; 
And grove and glen with thousand such are rife, 
Throughout this purple land, where law secures not life." 

At present, however, murders are rare, and the road may be 
travelled at all hours without molestation. 

We left the city at one o'clock P. M., and were unfortunate 
in being overtaken by rain before we reached the Caj&n de 
Zapdta, where we bivouacked for the night. The rain poured 
in torrents, and the miserable inn did not possess a single 
sleeping room that was not permeated by water. Yet we con- 
trived to make the best of it. Our host was a tnerry son of 
Spain, with slender legs, cased in green corduroy unmentiona- 
bles, secured at the knee with silver buttons, and his wife was 
a stirring, gay Chilena, of about twenty years old. She soon 
procured us a fine hot supper, of roasted lamb and eggs, with 
a casuelo and tea. After it was discussed, we were invited to 
the private apartment of our landlady, where we found three 
or four young women of the neighborhood, and as many 
young countrymen in their ponchos, chatting, and smoking 
"hojas." The guitar was bf ought from its corner, a bottle of 
<<aguardi6nte," and glasses, with a large gourd of **chicha," 
were placed on a chair ; and we were amused with singing, 
dancing fandangos, and drinking, till past midnight, when we 
retired, but not to sleep, for scarcely could we get into a doze, 
before a malicious stream of water would find its way through 
the thatch, and trickle into the bed, or a wanton flea, in pur- 
suit of blood, would rouse us from our slumber. About two in 
the morning, a carreta, with a family of ladies, arrived from 
Valparaiso, completely drenched in the storm. The house 
was all in a bustle, and we forgot our own miseries in listen- 
ing to the expressions of commiseration for the plight of the 
newly arrived, by our kind hearted hostess — "Pobrecitas 
mojadas hasta el pell6jo estan !" — "poor things, they are wet 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 151 

to the skin." By the time the party was arrayed in dry clothes, 
and seated at a hot meal, savory of garlic, to prevent taking 
cold, day broke, and the rain had abated so much, that we set 
forward in hopes of crossing the cu6sta before the storm should 
again commence. Scarcely had we reached the plain, in the 
midst of which stands Casablanca, when the rain fell in such 
torrents that the road was flooded, and objects could not be 
distinguished two hundred yards ahead. Yet we kept on. The 
capatdz and the "peones" urging on the animals, and cheer- 
ing themselves with the anticipations of a hot breakfast, a 
gourd of "chicha," and a quiet nap at Casablanca, before 
again setting off. And they were not disappointed, for Fe- 
roni outdid himself ; not only was the excellent breakfast 
quickly provided, but our rooms were warmed with well 
burned charcoal, which is a luxury in Chile, after riding twenty 
miles on a cold July morning ! 

About two-o'clock, being refreshed with sleep, though it 
still rained, we again mounted our gig, and lashed away for 
the Port. The plains near Peiiuelas were drowned in water, 
and we were obliged to navigate in our vehicle very carefully, 
lest we should get off the road into some hole or water course 
formed during the storm. To prevent all accident, a *^peon" 
went ahead to sound, for we were riding through a vast lake 
of muddy water, about a foot deep. By care we arrived safely 
at the post house, and after baiting, kept on. By this time the 
rain had ceased, the clouds began to dear, and when we de- 
scended the Alto de Valparaiso into the town, the moon beams 
were glittering on the placid surface of the bay, and the sky 
presented its characteristic azure expanse, studded with myriads 
of meteor-like stars* 



152 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Coquimbo bay — La Serena — Salute — Balsas — The Port — Commerce — Con- 
dors — The City — Distress by drought — Society — Trade. 

We anchored about four o'clock P. M., on the 1st of Sep- 
tember, in the bay of Coquimbo, after twenty-eight hours run 
from Valparaiso. During the passage, the wind blew very 
fresh, and the sea was short and irregular, rendering the ves- 
sel's motion extremely uncomfortable. At this season the 
strong south winds are not so frequent as at other times of 
the year ; calms and light northwardly airs are much more 
common. 

Coquimbo bay, like that of Valparaiso, is an indentation of 
the coast, better protected, however, from the prevailing 
winds ; like that bay too, it opens to the northward, and the 
southern cape extends so far seaward, that vessels may lie com- 
pletely land-locked, and out of all danger, even during the 
severest weather. Its beach, which bounds a most beautiful 
sheet of water, sweeps round for about twenty-five miles. 
Vessels may securely careen and repair in this spot, at every 
season of the year. The greatest objection to this port is the 
difficulty of obtaining fresh water ; even that for the use of the 
inhabitants is brought a league in kegs and skins. Water for 
domestic purposes forms a considerable item in the expenses 
of a household. 

The bay is surrounded by high ranges of mountains, which 
increase in height as they recede from the coast, till the view 
is closed by the snowy peaks of the main Cordillera, which ap- 
pear through the valleys and quebrddas running to the sea. At 
present they are naked and inhospitable to appearance, but in 
rainy years, they are clothed in verdure. In the vicinity, 
there is a great quantity of shell formation, and I am told by 
an intelligent friend, that the hills are covered with shells, 
many of which are not found in the bays of the coast. 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 153 

Don Pedro Valdivia founded this place in 1544, thinking 
that it might be a good retreat, in the passage from Chile to 
Peru, and called it after his native place, La Serena — The Se- 
rene. 

Formerly this port was a common resort for whale ships, 
but they have lately abandoned it, in consequence of being 
too closely watched by the revenue ojfficers, and from being 
forbid to boil out their oil in the bay, and cast the carcass of 
the fish upon the shore, as they were in the habit of doing. It 
requires no stretch of imagination to fancy the ofiensiveness 
of the air in the vicinity of such huge masses of animal matter 
in a state of putrefaction. But they did not remain long ; buz- 
zards, condors, and other carrion birds soon stript the bones 
and left them to bleach upon the shore ; and from the great 
number of them strewed along the road, and employed in the 
structure of small bridges, we may form some idea of the many 
whales which have been killed here. Besides the whales, 
which it is by no means uncommon to see, the bay affords a 
variety of fine fish, clams, and scallops, which last are not 
found at Valparaiso, only one hundred and eighty miles to the 
south. 

Immediately after our arrival, as is customary, the captain 
of the port paid his visit; and declined the compliment of a 
salute, on the score that the guns of the forts had been thrown 
down in the revolution of 1829, and had not been restored. 
'* In fact,^' said he, " we are now without defence ; the smallest 
force would take the place ; there is not even a bayonet, much 
less a soldier, in the garrison." 

Some years since, the commander of one of our ships of war 
offered to salute the town, on the usual condition that it should 
be returned gun for gun. The authorities replied, they would 
be extremely happy to do so, but were entirely without pow- 
der. The commander sent on shore a present of a barrel of 
cartridges. The ship saluted. The fort commenced firing, 
and continued till sunset ; then a message was sent on board ta 
say, "as it was late, they would fire the remainder in the 
morning !" 
Several of the " balsas" of the bay came round us soon after 
20 



154 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

anchoring. A " balsa" consists of two seal skins (or the skin* 
of any other large animals) sewed up into bags, inflated with 
air, and lashed side by side at one end, while at the other they 
expand like a pair of compasses. At the small end or prow of 
this primitive vessel sits a man astride, with his legs in the 
water, who propels the balsa by means of a double paddle, 
formed at each extremity like an oar blade, which he indus- 
triously plys, first on one side and then on the other. It would 
be no very monstrous conceit to compare him to some mytho- 
logical being riding an inhabitant of the deep. A near ap- 
proach, however, would at once undeceive you as to any pre- 
tensions the rider might have in your imagination to godship, 
and particularly if you should require his services in the line 
of his business. He carries messages, catches fish, and smug- 
gles silver and gold, which he secures in a leather bag under 
his seat, and conveys them very safely on board, free of ex- 
port duty. This class of amphibia on the whole coast is famed 
for its honesty ; no instance of fraud being on record, except 
where custom house officers are concerned, though millions in 
gold and silver have been intrusted to their conveyance. Their 
mutual quarrels sometimes give rise to amusing scenes. It is 
always an object,, when they meet, to cut holes in each other's 
"balsas;" when successful, which they often are after much 
manoeuvring on both sides, the air escapes, and the discomfited 
wight, left with only a flaccid hide for his support, is reduced 
to the necessity of swimming for his life. Not unfrequently 
the contest ends in the loss of both vessels ; but the anger of 
the parties is completely washed away, by a cold bath and pro- 
tracted swim, by the time they reach the shore ! 

The Port, as it is called to distinguish it from the City, is an 
assemblage of about a dozen ranchos, (small huts), as many "ra- 
madas," the custom house, and a two story building, erected by 
one of those enthusiastic, ill directed, and long since bankrupt, 
mining associations formed in England, which is now occupied 
by the captain of the port. A "ramada" is a bivouac (fre- 
quently for life) made by throwing together branches of trees 
and bushes ; families not unfrequently pass their whole lives 
without any other protection from the noonday sun, the night 



NOTICES OP CHILE. 155 

dews, and winter rains, than is incompletely afforded by a 
« ramada" and a scanty apparel. A convenient place for land- 
ing and embarking is formed in front of the " Company's 
house" by a pier of stones, put together without any kind of 
cement. The custom house is a long, low rancho, which 
stands between the town and pier. 

Not a single English merchant vessel has visited the bay for 
the last two years ; American ships only come for copper, which 
is carried as a remittance to. the United States or to China. 
When they cannot obtain sufficient at Valparaiso, they take in 
hides, and touch at Coquimbo, and fill up with copper. It fre- 
quently happens that evenhere the demand of China-bound 
vessels cannot be supplied ; in which case, to complete their 
cargoes, they go to Huasco and Copiapo, two copper ports to 
leeward. Some ships carry away from six to eight thousand 
quintals,* which are bought at from thirteen to seventeen dol- 
lars each. The export duty is one dollar per quintal, and some 
municipal charges, amounting to seventeen or eighteen cents. 
From seventy to eighty thousand quintals are annually shipped 
from this port. 

Besides copper, from seventy to eighty thousand markst of 
silver, in the form called "plata pina,V (worth at the present 
price, from @ 490,000 to ^560,000,) are annually carried to 
Europe in British men-of-war, one of which sails every four 
months for Rio Janeiro and England. The amount in gold can- 
not be estimated, because it is all smuggled. Silver is taxed 
with a duty of four reales (fifty cents,) the mark. 

The road from the port to the city, runs along the beach for 
two or three miles, then striking to the right over some sand 
hills, passes among cultivated fields and vegetable gardens, 
which are irrigated by ac^quias from a mountain stream, dig- 
nified by the name of Coquimbo river, laving the northern side 
of the town. This part of the road is called La Pampa ; where- 
■ever a water course traverses it, a foot bridge (used by man 
and beast) is formed by laying two ribs of a whale side by side ! 

• A Spanish quintal is 100 pounds Avoirdupois, 
t A mark is eight ounces Avoirdupois. 



156 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Just before turning oflf from the beach, we came to the re- 
cent carcass of a mule, upon which, seven large, black winged, 
ruffle throated condors, and a crowd of buzzards, were feasting. 
They allowed us to approach so near, that had we been pro- 
vided with arms, we might have shot them, as they arose slow- 
ly on the wing. These mammoths of the air frequently destroy 
small animals. They sometimes form a circle around a sheep 
or goat, and spreading out their wings, approach till they strike 
their prey. The first stroke of the beak is aimed at the eyes; 
if the animal cry, they seize the tongue with their talons, and 
then falling upon him, devour the body, even to the bones. In 
the country they are caught in the following manner. A pen 
is formed of high palisadoes driven into the ground, and a 
fresh carcass put into the centre. It is left alone. In a short 
time the condors, who scent their food for miles, descend into 
it, and while feasting, the peones, armed with clubs, and the 
body and limbs well protected with hide, enter the enclosure, 
and commence the work of destruction. This bird cannot rise 
without running thirty or forty yards, which the limits of the 
pen will not allow, and they are clubbed to death, not however 
without making resistance, and occasionally inflicting very se- 
vere wounds upon their pursuers. 

The entrance to Coquimbo, or La Serena, as it is known 
and spoken of in all public documents, is through an "adobe" 
gate, which indicates that it was once surrounded by a wall. 
The appearance is unpromising. The streets, which intersect 
each other at right angles, are of moderate width, and far from 
being clean. On one corner of the plaza is the government 
house, occupied by the Intendente of the province. There is a 
public hospital lately established, and six or seven churches, 
all with cupolas or belfries. The dwellings are in the same 
style as those of Santiago, presenting a white front wall, with 
a large gate studded with brass or copper bolt heads. Very 
few houses are of two stories ; som.e of them have observatories 
on the top. A small flower garden is attached to each, and 
from this cause the city occupies more ground than many 
places of three times its population, which does not exceed ten 
thousand. 



NOTICES OF CHILE. 157 

Several of the fruits which grow here are much esteemed. 
The Lucdma is considered a great delicacy both at Valparaiso 
and Santiago ; scarcely a vessel leaves this port without bearing 
presents of this fruit to both of those cities. The next best in 
the opinion of Chilians, is the Cherimoya. It does not attain 
the same perfection as in Lima; in fact its flavor is entirely 
diiferent. The oranges are not so good as those of Valparaiso. 
Lemons and citrons flourish. The apples are tasteless. The 
gardens are filled with a variety of flowers, which are nursed 
and cherished by the ladies. Bulbs enjoy a large share of at- 
tention ; among them is the beautiful Ananuca, which is indige- 
nous. 

On the northern side of the town is a high hill, and upon it 
is erected a large wooden cross. From this spot one may en- 
joy a fine view of the city and its vicinity. La Serena stands 
a little ofi'from the beach, and about nine miles from the port, 
surrounded by hills that separate it from an extensive plain, 
through which Coquimbo river wanders, giving fertility where- 
ever it approaches. This vega extends to the very base of the 
Andes, and is roamed over by numerous herds of grazing cat- 
tle. The town is dotted with green gardens, and surrounded 
by cultivated chdcras (small farms,) and white dwellings, peep- 
ing from amidst green foliage. Three whole years have rolled 
away without a fertilizing shower. The province is parched, 
and on every hand the rich landholder and poor muleteer meet 
you with a tale of distress. The produce of the earth is with- 
held, and the pastures are burned. The flocks and herds are 
perishing every where throughout the province, and their own- 
ers are forced to see them die without being able to prevent 
their fate. The miner in vain brings to the. surface the rich 
ores from the bowels of the earth. There is no water to assist 
him in the extraction of the metal ; and where there is, the 
fuel necessary to melt it into bars, is scarce ; it is with difiicul- 
ty that mules can be procured to transport the fruit of his toil 
from the mines to the coast. Unless the skies relent in show- 
ers. La Serena, and its gardens, and its chdcras, must soon be 
blighted, and bare as the surrounding mountains ! 

La Serena is always hushed ; the most death-like stillness 



158 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

every where prevails, and it is seldom broken, except by the 
bell of the leading mule of the troops that occasionally file 
through the streets, to deposite their loads of copper from the 
mines. Each of these laborious animals brings into town from 
four to six quintals, a distance of ten or twelve leagues. 
We saw one troop deposite a thousand quintals. The peones 
who accompanied the mules were remarkably muscular and 
well proportioned, and handled two hundred pounds of cop- 
per without apparent exertion. In addition to the dress worn 
by the same class at Valparaiso, these men had red caps cut 
into a long point hanging rakishly in front, and pieces of 
sheep skin over the chest, right arm, and shoulder, and the 
sitting part of their ample breeches was defended by a broad 
disk of leather. 

At present there is no society among the natives ; even the 
natural vivacity and buoyancy of youth seem oppressed by the 
stillness and quiet of the city. There are no terttilias, no re- 
uni&nes, no amusement, no hotels. The ladies occupy their 
time in domestic affairs, and in the cultivation of flowers. 
Reading is not among their pleasures. They possess but little 
beauty ; those whom I saw have dark, rough skins ; but they 
bear evidence, in many particulars, of the healthiness of the 
climate. 

The males, when free from their avocations, spend what 
time they have left from the siesta, in playing cards, billiards, 
or dice. Smoking is universal, but is entirely confined to 
"hojas." 

The province of Coquimbo abounds in mines of copper, sil- 
ver, gold, and iron, which last is not worked on account of the 
scarcity of fuel. There is no coal in the province. The wood 
used is that of the " espinos" (thorns), and a species of acacia, 
called algarovilla, which is considered to be the best. It bears 
a fruit, the infusion of which is said to possess the rare virtue 
of restoring lost paternity and maternity — a frequent source 
of complaint in many parts of Chile. 

Cabinet specimens of minerals are obtained with difiiculty. 
Miners seldom make collections, and it is only through their 
orders that they can be procured, because none but proprietors 



NOTICES OP CHILE. ♦ 159 

are allowed to sell the ores, in order to guard against pecula- 
tion by the laborers. Silver specimens are worth from ten to 
twelve dollars the pound, and gold in proportion. 

Not long since, a very rich silver mine was discovered near 
Copiapo, from which "papas" of native silver are sold at a 
price very little below that of the native metal. A single spe- 
cimen was purchased the other day in La Serena, at ^207! 

I am told that the dross and slag formed when the copper 
is cast into pigs, contain sufficient metal to yield a profit by 
smelting it a second time. 

Nothing is imported direct from abroad to Coquimbo, but 
to supply the demand for goods used in the province, among 
which are large quantities of American domestics, the shop 
keepers resort once or twice a year to Santiago or Valparaiso. 
The distance from the former city is travelled by the mail in 
from seven to eight days, but laden mules seldom get through 
the journey in less than twenty. 



NOTICES OF BOLIVIA. 



SI 



NOTICES OF BOLIVIA. 



CHAPTER I. 



Bay of Mexillones — Cobija — Soil — Landing — Balsa — Town — Old trees — 
Scarcity of water — Commerce — Visit to the copper mines — Catica. 

We sailed on the 5th of September from Coquimbo, with a 
northerly breeze, which lasted about twenty-four hours, when 
the usual trade commenced, but it was so light that we did not 
reach the bay of Mexillones till late in the evening of the 
ninth. This is a beautiful, extensive, and deep bay ; the an- 
chorage is close in to the shore, and so smooth that it offers 
some advantages to ships of war to careen and paint, as their 
crews may be put on shore without any danger from desertion. 
The nearest town or habitation is the port of Cobija, more than 
half a degree to the north. The bay opens to the northward, 
and is surrounded by high land, as barren as can well be ima- 
gined. There is not a blade of grass, nor even a cactus to be 
seen on it. Nor is there a drop of fresh water to be found 
within many leagues. The bay has been frequently examined, 
with a view of making it the port of Bolivia, but the idea has 
been as frequently abandoned, from the want of water. There 
is a small stream about twenty leagues from it, which, it is 
said, might be brought here. At present, the only inhabitants 
are the varieties of sea birds, pelicans, gulls, cormorants, and 
condors, and the only regular visiters are whales. Occasionally 



164 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

a vessel anchors here, in order to avoid running past Cobija in 
the night, when they gain this latitude (23° S.) too late to 
reach the port on the same day. This was our own case. 

On the morning of the tenth it was calm, and though we 
fanned out of Mexillones, we lay off Cobija all night, and did 
not anchor till near three o'clock on the afternoon of the ele- 
venth. The Port of Cobija is difficult to be found by strangers. 
About five miles to the southward, are two low white rocks, 
which are the only land marks at this season of the year, when 
the profile of the mountains of the coast is almost constantly 
shrouded in fogs or clouds. So soon as a vessel is descried 
from the fort, a white flag is hoisted on the point as a mark, 
which may be seen ten or twelve miles at sea. 

The roadstead of Cobija is formed by a short low point of 
rough jagged rocks, on which stand the flag-staff, and a fortress 
mounting six long guns. The anchorage, though secure, and 
at a short distance from the shore, is not good. Vessels, in 
<' heaving up," frequently part their cables, or break their an- 
chors. About six miles to the northward is another rocky 
point, behind which, vessels that load with copper ore from 
the neighboring mine, lie, though not very comfortably. This 
spot is called Catica. 

Near the first point is the town, built upon the falda or lap 
of the hills, or, we would say, mountains, which rise abruptly 
to a height of between three and four thousand feet, barren, 
cheerless, and naked, except in the region of the clouds, where 
a few blades of grass have struggled through the soil, nourish- 
ed by the dews of winter. The trees of cactus grow larger 
than any I have before seen. Even these patches of green fade 
and are burnt up in the summer under a tropical sun. The co- 
lor of the mountains is variegated in spots of reddish, greenish, 
and whitish earth, with striae running down the sides, looking 
like the beds of little cascades, or streams formed by heavy 
rains : the captain of the port informs me, however, that 
showers are unknown, and the only rain is a heavy mist like 
the "llovisna," or drizzle of Lima — and even this is absent 
during the greater part of the year. The lap of the hills, which 
extends from their base to the sea, not exceeding half a mile 



NOTICES OP BOLIVIA. 165 

in breadth, appears to be formed by the accumulation of earth 
and stones, washed and rolled down in the course of time ; 
and a walk on shore corroborated this opinion. Along the 
street we saw several shelving strata, formed of large pebbles 
of a greenish color, bedded in a cement of dry earth, resem- 
bling a mammoth puddingstone formation. The rocks about 
the place are hard, dark, green-stone, and every where bear 
marks of having been worn smooth on their angles by the sea. 
In fact, towards Catica, there is a kind of natural wall, some 
two hundred feet high, that has evidently been under water 
at some remote period. Fancy a stiff mud or ooze, worked up 
with shells and pebbles of every size, and then left to dry, and 
you will get an idea of this bank or wall. Another curious 
formation in the neighborhood, is of very small shells, which 
when carelessly examined presents a texture similar to a coarse 
flag stone, but a nearer inspection shows you the minute shells, 
some of which are sufficiently perfect to be very readily class- 
ed. The metallurgist at Catica stated that this formation was a 
phosphate of lime, and that square slabs of it were used for 
the flooring of their furnaces, and also ground fine, and mixed 
with mud or clay, to form fire bricks. 

The landing is effected by pulling through a belt of kelp, 
which lines the shore of the bay, and through a narrow chan- 
nel, between some low black rocks, into a smooth little basin, 
where the boat is drawn up on the sand beach. So soon as 
we stepped ashore, our attention was drawn to a fisherman, 
who was filling his balsa with air. He was a short, square 
built Indian, pretty well advanced in life, with long locks of 
black and gray hair hanging straight from Under a low-crown- 
ed narrow-rimmed straw hat, rather worse for wear. He wore 
a short jacket and still shortey trowsers of old blue cloth, and 
the particolored remains of a poncho girded his loins. A 
dark copper colored skin covered his face and neck, and 
though far from being embonpoint, as Bolivians generally 
are, he might be called muscular. His nose was flattened and 
pinched in, just as it joined the os frontis, but it did not pre- 
sent the African flatness ; and the angle of his face was that 
common to the Caucasian or European race. His eyes were 



166 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

small, black, and widely separated from each other, and though 
he did not squint, their axes seemed to incline very much to- 
wards each other. Add high cheek bones and a regular turn 
to the figure, and you may form some idea of a Bolivian — at least 
such is the general appearance of those I have met. There is, 
however, nothing fierce about them ; but on the contrary, there 
is a pleasant, good humored convivial expression which speaks 
in their favor. This worthy fisherman was resting on one knee 
beside his half flaccid balsa, with a small tube of intestine, 
which is attached to its end, in his mouth, blowing and puffing, 
and occasionally tapping the vessel to ascertain how the infla- 
tion proceeded. At length he finished, and twisted the tube 
round the nozzle which attached it to the balsa. The balsa 
used here is similar to that of Coquimbo, but larger, and deck- 
ed over between the two bags of wind by a dry ox hide or seal 
skin. On this they carry freight or passengers perfectly dry. 
To prevent the water from penetrating, the balsa is coated over 
with a pigment resembling new tanned leather in color. An- 
other fisherman drew his balsa ashore, and threw three fine 
large fish upon the sand, which he had caught amongst the 
rocks ofi" the point, with a harpoon. He told us that was the 
only way of taking them. 

The bay affords a variety of excellent fish, and the rocks 
are full of shell fish, much esteemed by the natives, but not 
eaten by foreigners. Amongst them are a variety of limpets 
of a large size, as well as many smaller shells. Our stay here, 
however, did not afford us time to collect any except a few 
dead ones ; — but I am inclined to think, that an amateur would 
be rewarded by a few days' labor at this place. 

We walked towards the governor's house, which fronts the 
landing, and turning to the left, found ourselves in the main 
and only street of Cobija. It is perhaps a quarter of a mile 
long, but not closely built. The houses are all one story high, 
and constructed of wood and of adobes in the simplest style, 
and very few of them have patios. The plastering is mixed 
with salt water, and very soon blisters and peels off", from the 
effects of the sun, and therefore a constant repair is necessary. 
Wood, all of which is brought from Chiloe and Concepcion, is 



NOTICES OF BOLIVIA. 167 

a cheaper material for building than adobes, both on account 
of repairs and the original cost. A great proportion of the 
houses are occupied as stores, where a great variety of foreign 
goods, both European and American, are exposed for sale. 
About the middle of the street, there are two ancient palms, 
and an old dried up fig tree, (described by Frezier, in 1713,) 
on the bark of which foreigners have been in the habit of cut- 
ting their names. Some of these bear date as early as 1809^. 
Amongst other names is that of the U. S. S. Vincennes, lS28y 
and P. White, N. Carolina, 1832. 

The oldest building here is a church, said to have been erect- 
ed a hundred and fifty years ago. It is built of adobes of a 
small size, and the cement is said to have been made of the 
shell formation mentioned above, and is now harder than stone. 
This temple is very small and mean in appearance ; and opens 
to the sea by the only door in the building, which is double, 
and secured by a common padlock ; in fact, unless attention 
were called to it, it would be overlooked as some stable. 

Amongst the inconveniences of this port, perhaps the greatest 
is the scarcity of water, which is barely suj0ficient for the daily 
consumption of the present small population, and even this is 
so brackish, that strangers are unable to drink it without a 
pretty free admixture of wine or spirits. Cofiee and tea made 
from it are far from being very palatable. In former years, 
however, it was not so scarce. The springs from which it is 
obtained are in front of the trees in the side of the hill, and 
secured by lock and key, except a small tube of the size of a 
gun barrel, from which a stream as large as a swan quill is- 
sues; and this is carefully stopped when not running into 
the bottles or other vessels of those who come for water. At 
the end of the street, and within ten yards of the surf, is a 
well, said to contain the best water in the place : this the go- 
vernor has appropriated to his own use, and that of the garrison, 
not exceeding, in all, servants included, fifty persons. About 
a half a mile from the town is a spring, which is used for wash- 
ing and watering the cattle. A barrel of sweet water from 
Valparaiso or Peru is esteemed no small present, and the favor 
is frequently asked of vessels arriving in the port. There is 



168 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

now an American ship at Catica, loading with copper ore ; the 
captain fearing that he should be short of water for his voyage, 
went in his boat twelve miles to leeward, and was absent two 
days, and obtained only two barrels of water, which he de- 
clares "is so salt and hard, that it will not even boil beans !*' 
The saltness of the springs is owing to the beds of nitre and 
salt in the neighborhood, through which the water percolates to 
the place of its exit. Although there is a very complete appa- 
ratus here for boring, and with a reasonable prospect of suc- 
cess, it has never been tried. 

In the United States, a tavern and a blacksmith's shop will 
always form the nucleus for a village. In South America, a 
church and a billiard table answer the same purpose, and poor 
is that place indeed, where, during some part of the day, the 
balls are not heard rolling about. Here there is a tolerable 
table, but very illy supplied with cues ; and as in all Spanish 
towns, the pin-game is the only one played by the natives. 
This game is played with three balls. Five pins of hard wood, 
called <'palillos,'' each five inches long, and a half inch in 
diameter, are set up in the centre of the table, with sufficient 
space between them to allow a ball to pass easily through. If 
the centre pin be knocked down without disturbing either of 
the others, placed on the corners of a square, it counts five, 
provided the player's ball first strike the spot ball or that of 
his antagonist ; if not, he loses as much. The fall of either of 
the other pins, or all of them together, counts two each. 

There is a tavern here, where all the foreign residents eat, 
finding it much less trouble, and more economical, than main- 
taining a private table. Though rather scanty in furniture even 
for the table, a very good fare is served up in the Spanish 
style. Some idea of the trouble of house keeping, may be had 
from a knowledge of the fact, that every thing, except butcher's 
meat, is brought from Chile and Peru. Every vessel, particu- 
larly the coasters, from both those countries, brings large quan- 
tities of vegetables and live stock for this market, and a part 
of that is sent off to the interior ! Meat and fodder for the cat- 
tle, used in the mining and commercial operations, are brought 
from Calama, a town forty leagues to the eastward of the coast ; 



NOTICES OP BOLIVIA. 169 

and between it and the coast, I am told, there is not a habita* 
tion, a tree, nor a blade of grass, nor a spring of wholesome 
water ! 

The latitude of Cobija is 22° 30' southv It is the only port 
of the Republic of Bolivia ; whose limited coast, extending 
from 21° 30' S. to 25° south, does not afford any site so con- 
venient as this. It is placed in the desert of Atacama, one hun- 
dred and fifty leagues from Chuquisaca, the present capital ; 
three hundred from La Paz, the former capital, and a hundred 
and fifty from the far famed Potosl, and not less than seventy 
leagues from any well cultivated lands. It was declared to be 
the Port of Bolivia in 1827, but from the scarcity of water and 
provisions, and from the interruption which the trade received 
from the war with Peru, very few vessels entered it before 
1829, since which time the place has increased to a population 
of between six and seven hundred persons, including the miners 
in the Immediate vicinity — and from the number of new build- 
ings going up, we should draw very favorable conclusions re- 
lative to its prosperity. Though so recently declared the port 
of entry for Bolivia, Cobija was resorted to as early as 1700, 
by French merchant vessels, when a very rich commerce was 
driven between it and the mining district of Potosi. At that 
period water was in greater abundance, and of a better quali- 
ty than at present. Previous to 1827, the Republic received 
all its supplies of foreign goods through the port of Arica, in 
Peru, by way of the interior town Tacna. 

A half million of dollars, in foreign productions, is estimated 
to pass through this place annually for the interior. Packages 
are almost all unpacked, and again put up in smaller parcels, 
and of a certain weight, to accommodate them to the means of 
transportation, which is entirely by mules and jackasses. They 
are generally carried on jackasses as far as Calama, and from 
thence on mules to the different points of destination. 

The imports consist of European dry goods, cottons, silks, 
quicksilver, tobacco, teas, wines, American domestics, flour, 
&c. These are frequently purchased on board at Valparaiso, 
deliverable at this port. The duties are low now on every 
thing, and the question of making it an entirely free port, 
22 



17^ THREE YEARS IW THE PACIFIC. 

is agitated in the present congress. All kinds of provisions, 
except luxuries, as wine, &c., are admitted free. Manufac- 
tured goods, as furniture, and American cottons, pay an ad 
valorem duty of ten per cent., which is the highest levied ; 
silks and similar goods pay five. 

The exports are confined to coined gold and silver, which 
pay a duty of two per cent, (in bullion they are prohibited,) 
and copper and copper ores. The following table, the informa- 
tion for which was obtained from the captain of the port, ex- 
hibits a view of the number of vessels which have visited this 
port from the 1st of November 1831, to September 14 1832, 
being ten and a half months. 



Nation. 


Ships. 


Brigs. 


Schooners. 


Peru, 





4 


13 


United States, 


7 


3 


8 


Chile, 


— 


2 


13 


England, 


3 


3 


— 


France, 


6 


3 


— 


Holland, 


— 


1 


— 


Mexico, 


— 


— 


1 


Colombia, 


— 


1 


— 


Buenos Ayres, 


— 


— 


1 


Russia, 


1 


— 


— 


Sardinia, 


— 


1 


— 


Hamburg, 


— 


2 


2 



From the 9th of March 1831, to the 14th September 1832, 
being seventeen months, ten ships, ten brigs, and three schoo- 
ners, under American colors, have visited this port, and some 
of them several times. 

During our stay here, a day was devoted to a visit to the 
mines. Having prepared a basket with some cold meats, wine, 
water, &c., we left the ship in the gig, and pulled to Catica, 
which is about two leagues from the anchorage. At this place 
the landing is bad, and generally effected through the surf on 
balsas. The captain of the American ship before mentioned, 
loading copper ore for Swansey, Wales, joined our party. We 
examined the bellows furnace here, and a heap of ore, which 



NOTICES OP BOLIVIA. 171 

they were weighing and embarking. It consisted of a brown 
oxide, with a hard clear fracture, and a red oxide, a sulphuret, 
and some green carbonate.* Smelting is not carried on to any- 
great extent, from the scarcity of fuel. There is no mineral 
coal in the country, and the charcoal is brought from Chile 
and Peru. For the purposes of cooking, the wood of the cac- 
tus is used. It is very light, and affords but little heat. 

We proceeded to the foot of the hill, upon which the mines 
are situated, distant a mile and a half from Catica. The 
road is quite rough, and crosses a gap or mouth of a valley, 
through which passes the road to Calama and Potosi. When 
arrived at a shed, which is built at the foot of the hill, we 
found we had ascended perhaps three hundred feet above the 
level of the sea, and had a view of the highway till it winds 
out of sight amongst the hills. From the nature of the soil, 
from the great quantity of pebbles strewed over it, and other 
features of this road, we came generally to the conclusion that 
it had once been the bed of a river, or a mighty mountain tor- 
rent. After a short rest, we began to mount the side of the 
hill by a zigzag pathway, which ascends at an angle, from the 
base, of at least thirty-six degrees. From the starting place, 
we could just perceive, a thousand feet above us, and not half 
way to the top of the hill, a small white tent, amidst some 
large trees of cactus, which was the goal of our labors. Many 
paths are formed by the miners and mules on every part of the 
hill, and some of them are much more steep than others j that 
which we followed, is perhaps the least difficult of ascent. We 
were forced to stop for breath very frequently on our way up, 
and at such times we observed the mouths or entrances of seve- 
ral mines, which had been opened, but not now worked. Some 
of them are not more than fifteen or twenty feet deep. After 
considerable toil we reached the tent. A half dozen little 
hovels,just large enough for two or three persons to crawl into, 

• The gentlemen engaged in the business permitted us to select some speci- 
mens, and presented us with others which had been laid aside. We obtained 
some fine ciystals of the oxides, and a half dozen pieces containing very mi- 
nute portions of native gold. These ores »re supposed to yield about 25 per 
5:Qnt. flf CQpp§r, an4 to contain gold enough to pay th^ expense of reducing it. 



172 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

were built about it, with loose stones and branches of the cac- 
tus. Amongst these were perhaps twenty women and children, 
seated upon stones, surrounded with small heaps of ore, which 
they were breaking up, and sorting and throwing away the 
stone which adhered to it. They used double flat faced ham- 
mers, of about three pounds weight. Three or four " boca 
minas," or entrances to mines, opened near each other, and 
before them were piles of ore, thrown by those employed in 
bringing it up. The whole scene was one of wretchedness. 
The women and children were coarsely dressed in woollen, and 
without the slightest shelter from the hot sun. 

We descended to the bottom of one of the mines. A miner 
carried a small, dirty, smoking lamp, and led the way. About 
forty feet from the entrance, it turned to the left, and we found 
ourselves in a spot where the sides of the mine were lined 
with thin plates of quartz crystal, which dip into the joints or 
cracks between the pieces of ore, and our lamp seemed sudden- 
ly to multiply its light a hundred fold. If the walls had been 
hung with cut glass drops, it could not have been more 
beautifully irridescent. When I arrived near the bottom, the 
guide suddenly left me to return for some one of the party, 
who had not progressed so fast. He was absent a half minute, 
and I was in total darkness. Close to me I heard a man snor- 
ing, and almost under my feet, the blows of a hammer, accom- 
panied by that subdued short breathed sound of " ha !" at every 
blow. To one unused to such circumstances, there was some- 
thing appalling and unpleasant to the feelings. The light soon 
returned, and another turn through a hole just large enough 
to pass, brought us to a miner lying with his side against the 
earth, in a bent position, breaking out large pieces of ore from 
above his head, with an iron chisel, and heavy hammer. It was 
he whom I heard when alone in the dark. He handed us a 
piece of the ore, which he had just broken out, for examination, 
and broke us a neat specimen of what he termed the best. This 
was the dark heavy oxide, with a thin laminum of quartz 
spread over one side. 

The course of this mine falls very little below a horizontal 
line, and is about ten feet in diameter in some places, and in 



NOTICES OP BOLIVIA. 173 

others much narrower. From the surface to the bottom, does 
not exceed a hundred and fifty feet. The gangue of these 
mines is either granite or carburet of iron. 

After indulging our curiosity, and selecting some pieces of 
ore to carry with us, we entered one of the little huts where 
the servant had deposited the basket of provisions. Five in all 
got inside, including our hostj who was polite, and answered 
readily the questions proposed to him. Exercise had given us 
an appetite, and it was not long before the contents of our bas- 
ket (of which also the host partook) disappeared. The hovel 
contained a small chest, a dirty bed, and a small barrel, and 
this was all the furniture. 

The ore is brought from the bottom of the mines upon men's 
backs, in small sacks of hide, and the weight they thus carry 
up rough ascents, difficult for us to climb unladen, is really 
surprising. The athletic forms of these men, and their appa- 
rent cheerfulness, caused my admiration as much as the se- 
vere nature of their toil. There are forty men at work, who 
are paid each a dollar a day, and considering the life they lead, 
and the high price of provisions, it is not much. After being 
culled, the ore is carried on mules and asses to Catica, to be 
smelted or exported. On taking a view of the whole, I would 
not give a few fertile acres in our happy country, for all the 
mines of this province. 

As we descended the hill, we saw several small yellow birds 
hopping amongst the stones, and picked up a few land shells. 
About half past three we got back to Catica, all very tired, 
and quite ready for a cool glass of wine and water, which was 
kindly given us at the smelting house. Here one of the party 
was requested to see a female afflicted with a dropsy, which is 
the prevalent disease of the pkce, which is otherwise healthy. 
As there is no medical man in Cobija, they are glad to avail 
themselves of advice from any physicians who may chance to 
visit the port. The only leech is the Sangrad&r, or bleeder at- 
tached to the garrison, and possibly the curate may have some 
smattering of the healing art. 

After resting an hour, and in vain endeavoring to procure a 
mule, or horse, or ass, we set forward on foot for the town. 



174 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

The road is rough, up hills and over gullies, without anything 
to relieve the eye from its barrenness. Scarcely a bird is to be 
seen ; in fact, since our being here, 1 have seen only three or 
four buzzards, a half dozen gulls, and a lone pelican. Instinct 
or experience teaches, that there is nothing to invite either 
man or animal — but what will not man undergo for gold ! 

The two leagues were passed, and, well wearied with our 
excursion, we returned on board at sunset. 



CHAPTER II. 

Historical sketch of Bolivia — Its productions — Coca. 

On the 5th of August 1825, Potosi, Charcas, Cochabamba, 
and Santa Cruz, formerly constituting Upper Peru, declared 
themselves independent of Ferdinand VII., and on the 11th 
of August, the Assembly decreed that the Republic should 
bear the title of Bolivia. They date the birth day of the 
nation from the 6th of August 1825, the day on which was 
gained the victory of Junin. 

On the 25th of May, 1826, a Congress was installed at Chu- 
quisaca, and a committee appointed to examine the Constitu- 
tion proposed by Bolivar. They reported favorably, and in 
conformity to its principles, a President was chosen for life. 
The choice fell on General Sucre, who accepted the office for 
only two years, on the condition that two thousand Colombian 
troops should be permitted to remain with him. Sucre declin- 
ed holding the presidency for a longer period than two years, 
on the grounds of having been educated a soldier ; and having 
spent the greater part of his life in the field, he was unfit to be 
the civic chief of their government.* 

* Memoirs of (literal Miller* Vol. II. 



NOTICES OF BOLIVIA. 175 

During his administration, schools were established, and 
plenipotentiaries were sent to Buenos Ayres, to obtain the ac- 
knowledgment of the independence of the Republic, which 
was withheld by that government, alleging that Bolivia could 
not be free while General Sucre and two thousand Colombians 
were permitted to remain within her territories. This act gave 
umbrage to the Bolivians, and evoked some spirited articles on 
the subject from them, which appeared in "El Peruano." 

On the 15th of October 1826, Peru acknowledged Bolivia 
to be an independent state. At present, an agent from Brazil, 
and a Charg6 d' Affaires and Consul General from France, are 
residing at Chuquisaca. The government of the United States 
has not yet sent a diplomatic agent of any class to that country. 

Notwithstanding that Peru acknowledged the independence 
of Bolivia, she was anxious to obtain the cession of certain ter- 
ritories, adjoining to her southern boundary. On the 9th of 
April 1827, the Peruvian plenipotentiary left La Paz, and 
soon after, a Peruvian army, under the command of General 
Gamarra, appeared on the Bolivian frontier. On the 18th of 
April 1828, the garrison at Chuquisaca, the capital of Bolivia, 
revolted, through the intrigue and machinations of the Peru- 
vian general. This garrison consisted only of fifty men, yet it 
was sufficient to overthrow the then existing government. 
General Sucre, in attempting to quell the disturbance, was 
severely wounded in the arm. Gamarra, under pretence of 
fear for the personal safety of the President, and anxiety to 
restore tranquillity to the state^ marched from the Besagdfa- 
dero, where he was encamped, and took possession of La Pa^, 
and of the Capital. Sucre at once resigned, and sailing from 
Cobija, arrived at Callao on the 13th of December, where he 
remained twenty-four hours, but was not permitted to land. 
While there his wounds were dressed by one of the medical 
officers of the United States Frigate Brandy wine ; and he offer- 
ed his services to intercede between the governments of Peru 
and Colombia, then at war, with the hope of restoring peace 
without having recourse to arms. On the fourteenth he sailed 
in the Porcia (an American ship) for Guayaquil. 

Bolivia was soon plunged in a most dreadful state of anarchy. 



176 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

General Santa Cruz was called by the constituent Congress to 
be President, but a party, or rather a faction, forcibly elevated 
General Don Pedro Blanco to the chief magistracy. On the 
25th of December he made his public entry into Chuquisaca, 
and the next day took the oath of office. On the thirty -first a 
revolution took place, he was made prisoner, and on the morn- 
ing of the 1st of January 1S29, he was shot, after having been 
President four days ! 

On the 14th of December 1828, Gamarra was received at 
Lima, amidst the rejoicings of the people, who styled him the 
Liberator of La Paz, and entertained him at the theatre, and 
at the Plaza del Acho with a bull-bait. 

On the 15th of February 1829, (six weeks after the death 
of General Blanco,) the Vice President dissolved the Conven- 
tional Assembly, and declared all their acts to be void, leaving 
the laws the same as at the adjournment of the constituent 
Congress, and named again General Santa Cruz as the provi- 
sional President. 

Since that period, Santa Cruz has been at the head of the 
government, which for prosperity ranks amongst the foremost 
of the South American republics. He has established schools, 
increased commerce by relieving it of many heavy taxes, and 
he has concluded a treaty of peace and commerce with Peru. 

The extensive territory of Bolivia is rich in mines of cop- 
per and the precious metals ; the vine and olive flourish ; in 
many places sugar cane grows wild, and rice and flax are pro- 
duced in abundance. Peruvian bark and indigo are success- 
fully cultivated ; and the coca, which is so essential to the In- 
dian's comfortable existence, is a staple of this climate. The 
erithroxylon peruvianus or coca, at the time of the conquest, ' 
was only used by the Incas and those of the royal or rather 
solar blood. The plant was looked upon as an image of di- 
vinity, and no one entered the enclosures where it was culti- 
vated without bending the knee in adoration. The divine 
sacrifices made at that period were thought not to be accepta- 
ble to heaven, unless the victims were crowned with branches 
of this tree. The oracles made no reply, and auguries were 
terrible, if the priest did not chew coca at the time of consult- 



NOTICES OP BOLIVIA. 177 

ing them. It was an unheard of sacrilege to invoke the shades 
of the departed great, .without wearing this plant in token of 
respect, and the Coyas and Mamas, who were supposed to pre- 
side over gold and silver, rendered the mines impenetrable, if 
the laborers failed to chew the leaves of coca while engaged in 
the toil. To this plant the Indian recurred for relief in his 
greatest distress ; no matter whether want or disease oppressed 
him, or whether he sought the favors of Fortune or Cupid, he 
found consolation in this divine plant. 

In the course of time, its use extended to the whole Indian 
population, and its cultivation became an important branch of 
trade. It produced at one period no less than ^2,641,487 
yearly, and we are told that its leaves were oni3e the repre- 
sentative of money, and circulated as coin. 

It is sown in the months of December and January, its 
growth being forwarded by the heavy rains which fall in the 
mountainous regions from that time till the month of April. 
It flowers but once a year, but yields four crops of leaves, 
which are not however equally abundant ; the least so is ga- 
thered at the time of inflorescence. It requires to be sown 
once in five years. When the leaves attain an emerald green 
on one side, and a straw color on the other, they are carefully 
pulled, one by one, and dried in the sun. 

The virtues of the coca are of the most astonishing charac- 
ter. The Indians who are addicted to its use are enabled to 
withstand the toil of the mines, amidst noxious metallic exha- 
lations, without rest, food, or protection from the climate. 
They run hundreds of leagues over deserts, arid plains, and 
craggy mountains, sustained only by the coca and a little 
parched corn, and often too, acting as mules in bearing loads 
through passes where animals cannot go. Many have attri- 
buted this frightful frugality and power of endurance to the ef- 
fects of habit, and not to the use of the coca, but it must be 
remembered, that the Indian is naturally voracious, and it is 
known that many Spaniards were unable to perform the Her- 
culean tasks of the Peruvians, until they habitually used the 
coca. Moreover, the Indians, without it, lose both their vigor 
and powers of endurance. It is stated, that during the siege of 
23 



178 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

La Paz, in 1781, when the Spaniards were constantly on the 
watch, and destitute of provisions in the inclemencies of win- 
ter, they were saved from disease and death by resorting to 
this plant. 

The coca possesses a slightly aromatic and agreeable odor, 
and when chewed, dispenses a grateful fragrance ; its taste is 
moderately bitter and astringent, and it tinges the saliva of a 
greenish hue. Its effects on the system are stomachic and to- 
nic, and beneficial in preventing intermittents, which have al- 
ways prevailed in the country.* 

The mode of employing coca is to mix with it in the mouth 
a small quantity of lime, prepared from shells, much after the 
manner that the betel is used in the East. With this, a handful 
of parched corn, and a ball of arrow root, an Indian will travel 
on foot a hundred leagues, trotting on ahead of a horse. On 
the frequented roads, I am informed, that the Indian guides 
have certain spots where they throw out their quids, which 
have accumulated into little heaps, that now serve as marks of 
distance ; so that instead of saying one place is so many leagues 
from another, it is common to call it so many quids ! 

The Indians sometimes have tertdlias for taking the infusion 
of the leaves, as well as for chewing it. In the former mode, 
the effects are agreeably exhilarating. It is usual to say, on 
such occasions, " vamos a coquear y acullicar" — let us indulge 
in coca. 

• Disertacion sobre el aspecto, cultivo, comercio, y virtudes de la famosa 
planta del Peru, nombrada Coca. For el Doctor Don Hipolito Unanue. Mer- 
curio Peruano. July, 1794. Lima. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 



CHAPTER I. 



Callao Bay— Island of San Lorenzo— Entering Callao — Castles — ^Ancient de- 
fence of Callao — Town of CaUao — Market — Water — The mole — ^Remains of 
««01dCaDao." 



By reference to any map of Peru, it may be seen that Callao 
lies in about twelve degrees of south latitude, and that Lima 
is a little to the northward and eastward of it. 

From the mild, and almost constantly prevailing southerly 
breezes, the bay is always smooth, affording one of the best 
places on the coast for vessels to careen, after their long pas- 
sage round Cape Horn. From its geographical relations, this 
could not be expected, since it is a mere open roadstead, pro- 
tected from the southerly breezes by an island called San Lo- 
renzo, which extends from south-west to north-east, nearly 
two leagues. It is about a mile wide, and its highest pomt is 
nearly five hundred feet above the level of the sea. Towards 
the southern end it is separated by a narrow, rocky channel, 
navigable for boats. It bears evidence of having been severed 
by some violent earthquake, at a period of which there is no 
record. San Lorenzo is a barren spot, without a vestige of ver- 
dure, save on its very summit for a few weeks in the winter 
season, when it is pretty constantly shrouded in dense clouds. 
Its rocky shore is inhabited by a variety of molluscous animals^ 



182 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and great numbers of seals, while its heights are only visited 
by condors and vultures. 

There is a melancholy sentiment conveyed by a sight of this 
barren spot. When death has removed them from this world, 
our countrymen, in common with Englishmen, are allowed no 
other resting place, for "the cursed ungodliness of zeal" has 

" Denied the charity of dust, to spread 
O'erdast!" 

Even the humble monument, raised by weeping friendship, 
has been defaced or torn away by bigots ! Many noble hearts, 
stilled by the silent inroads of this deceitful climate, now 
moulder here, far away from the land that gave them birth. 

Not long since, the government granted foreigners permis- 
sion (not yet taken advantage of) to purchase a spot near Lima, 
to be consecrated as a burying ground ; but nothing can gain a 
Protestant corpse admittance into the Peruvian Pantheon. 
They refused burial even to the remains of Admiral Guise, the 
commander in chief of their navy, killed in 1828, before Guay- 
aquil, on board of the Frigate Prueba, till his widow, a native 
lady, stated most solemnly that he was a Roman Catholic. 

When we approached Callao, the zenith was clear. The 
Morro Solar and San Lorenzo lay silent before us. The breeze 
was mild. The clouds floated round the mighty Cordilleras, 
but their snowy peaks looked over them. The narrow strip of 
plain between the coast and the mountains was green. The 
spires and fanes of Pizarro's city " of a thousand towers and 
an hundred gates," were descried, nestling at the foot of San 
Cristoval. As we neared the island, the sea broke sullenly 
along its southern shore, and over the insulated rocks near it. 
We were so near them, that we plainly saw, basking in the 
sun, hundreds of drowsy seals and sea lions, with sleek skins 
and shaggy manes. 

We passed close to the northern end of San Lorenzo, and 
about four o'clock anchored a mile from the mole, and outside 
of the merchant vessels. Before coming to, the captain of the 
port and the port physician boarded us, and received all the 
letters we had brought. The captain of the port told us that a 



NOTICES OP PERU. 183 

fine of five hundred dollars was imposed on any person who 
should be detected in carrying a sealed letter to Lima. Letters 
for the consignees of merchant vessels are excepted. 

Besides the entrance by the northern end of the island, there 
is another, called the Boquer&n passage, between the main and 
th6 southern portion, called Front&n. 

To the north-east of the anchorage, the river Rimac, which 
passes the City of Lima, insensibly debouches, and leaves 
many lagoons in that direction. Two miles to the north, there 
is a shoal near the shore, and a stream of water falling into the 
sea, called Bocanegra. 

About three leagues to the south of Callao, is a promontory 
called the Morro Solar. On its northern side is the village of 
Chorillos, inhabited by Indians ; which, during the summer, 
is the resort of the fashion of Lima, for the purpose of sea 
bathing. To the south of it are two landing places ; one, El 
Salto del Fraile — the Friar's Leap, and the other, China, 
which was much frequented, in the early part of the last cen- 
tury, by French merchantmen and smugglers. 

Previous to the great earthquake of 1746, (28th October,) 
which ruined Lima and submerged Callao, this place was de- 
fended by a simple wall, and irregular bastions ; but, from the 
loose nature of the soil, without a fosse. The guns were of brass, 
but so entirely worn, that a great part of the charge of powder 
burnt out at the touch hole. The gun carriages were quite as 
defective as the artillery ; some had but one wheel, and others 
were worn almost square. What is remarkable, there was no 
one in Lima who was professionally capable of repairing these 
guns, which were at last bushed by a silversmith named 
Francisco de Villachica, who had never been out of Lima, but, 
from the urgency of the case, undertook the work. At that 
time, the shot used were either of pure copper or mixed with 
lead, and we are told that the officers sold large quantities of 
them for their private advantage.* 

The site of Callao of the present day, is some hundred toises 
to the north of the old, and possesses a very different soil. The 

* Noticias Secretas de America, p. 138. 



184 THREE YEARS IN THE FACIFIC. 

site of old Callao is at present, and probably was when Ulloa 
left Peru (1744), a loose shingle filled in with light sand.* 

At present there are three castles which completely com- 
mand the anchorage and the road to Lima ; one on the point 
that stretches towards San Lorenzo, called generally the south 
battery, one on the north of the town, called the north battery, 
and a third between the two, La Independencia, formerly 
named San Felipe. The last is large, and well calculated, even 
with a large garrison, to withstand a long siege, as was demon- 
strated by the protracted resistance of Rodil in the late war. 
The castles were begun in 1747, just after the earthquake ; in 
the same year Bellavista was built, about a quarter of a league 
from Callao, as the port, in order to be beyond the ingress of 
the sea in the event of another earthquake, for Callao was lite- 
rally swept from its foundation by the rolling in of the ocean, 
rather than by the shaking of the earth. The castles have pre- 
vented the augmentation and improvement of the town ; pro- 
prietors of the land always are at the risk of having the houses 
torn down, in case the place should be attacked or even threat- 
ened by an enemy, and that too by their own guns. 

Though these castles, and the arsenal immediately under the 
walls of San Felipe, also defended by heavy brass guns, have 
a formidable appearance, they are totally useless in preventing 
invasion from any maritime foe. They could only serve as a 
strong hold when driven to extremity, to enable the besieged 
to gain time, and draw succor from the interior resources of 
the country. True, they completely protect the immense bay 
of Callao, and might save all the shipping in it, in the event of 
an attempt to cut them out. For many leagues to the north 
and south, landing can be effected without risk, even in small 
boats and canoes. 

Besides the bad repair in which the ancient defence of Cal- 
lao was kept, the garrison was small and without discipline. 
Many dishonest persons in Lima, attached themselves to the 
artillery nominally, in order to escape the prosecution of cre- 



* For a description of Callao as it was previous to 1746, see Frezier's Voy^ 
age to the South Sea, in 1712—13—14. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 185 

ditors. They entered the corps, and appeared at certain times 
at the fortification, to prove that they were in the service of 
the king, which exempted them from the grasp of the officers 
of justice. This nominal enlistment was efiected by bribing 
the officers of the artillery, with a third or two thirds, and ■ 
sometimes even with the whole of the pay receivable by law. 

At the fortress in Valdivia, the viceroy paid the troops, part- 
ly in clothing and the necessaries which they required, and 
which could not be purchased there. The commander or go- 
vernor was intrusted with the disbursements. He kept all the 
goods ; opened a shop, and, paying the money sent, sold the 
goods to the soldiery at most exorbitant prices ; necessity com- 
pelled them to purchase, and thus the chieftain received as his 
own, what he had held only in trust.* 

Ulloa complained loudly of the want of discipline through- 
out all the garrisons of the whole coast, from Valdivia to Pana- 
ma, and in order to remedy it, proposed to send yearly to Spain, 
a proportional number of men from each province, according . 
to its population, there to be drilled, taught, and accustomed 
to war in the armies of the monarch. He thought that a mili- 
tary education, sufficient for one of these small garrisons, could 
not be taught in America, even if all the officers, superior and 
subaltern, had been Spaniards, as he recommended. He sug- 
gests, however, the propriety of giving to the newly educated, 
some subaltern offices, as serjeant-major, &c., to encourage 
them to make themselves worthy of greater preferment. He 
represents the Creoles as having been extremely vain of such 
royal favor and distinction. 

During the last two years, Callao has much improved, and]/r 
the population has increased to probably eight thousand souls. 1 >* 
There is a fine wharf or mole, nearly completed, provided ^ 
with cranes and landing slips for the convenience of vessels in -^ 
the harbor. Its foundation is the ruined hulk of an old sloop 
of war, around which piles have been driven ; these are filled 
in with stone, brought from San Lorenzo, where it is quarried 
and broken by convicts. 

* Noticias Secretas de America. 
24 



186 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

The main street, following the course of the beach, is about 
a quarter of a mile long, and has been lately paved. The houses 
are built of " adobes," with a second story made of cane wick- 
er work, plastered with mud, and whitewashed. The roofs are 
all flat; also of wicker work, and plastered with mud. These 
are kept clean in some instances as promenades, but more fre- 
quently become receptacles for all kinds of family refuse. This 
light architecture is used, because it is less expensive, and less 
dangerous during earthquakes. At the northern end of the 
street are a number of huts, constructed of mats, tenanted by 
fishermen, who supply the markets of Callao and Lima with 
fish ; this part of the town is called the pescadores. 

Along this street are many stores, billiard rooms, pulperias, 
or tippling shops, which are rendezvous for idle sailors, negroes, 
and the lowest order of the population. These places are the 
scenes of all manner of vice ; gambling, drunkenness, and the 
natural consequents, quarrels, and sometimes even murder. At 
night the sounds of bacchanalian mirth, and drunken uproar, 
are heard till a very late hour. To the eastward several streets 
have lately sprung up. The houses are small, but comparative- 
ly commodious ; at almost every door is tied by a leg, a game 
cock or two, crowing and scratching all day long; — fighting 
cocks is a very favorite and general amusement with all the in- 
habitants. 

The market place consists of an open square, in which are 
' erected a few booths for butcher's meat and vegetables. The 
market women, mostly Indians and mulattoes, spread out their 
fruits and vegetables on mats or ponchos, on the ground, and 
separate them into little parcels, worth a real each. Potatoes 
are sold at from three to eight for a real j* eggs at from three 



• Coins of Peru. 

r Onza, equal to $17 00 

I Media Onza, do. 8 50 

Gold.-^ Doblon, do. 4 25 

I Escudo, do. 2 12^ 

t Escudillo, do. 1 



NOTICES OP PERU. 187 

to six; tomatoes and beans are measured in gourd dishes of an 
arbitrary size, according to the views of the venders. For once 
the scene is amusing ; frequently the market women have their 
young children slung in the shawl or poncho, on the back, 
while seated flat on the ground, with one foot resting beneath 
the ham of the other leg, which is extended, and bare nearly 
to the knee. The hair is worn in three long braids, hanging 
down behind. The heaps of fruit of every kind are sometimes 
so numerous, and disposed so irregularl)'^ over the ground, that 
it requires care in wending the way, not to stumble into a heap 
of eggs, or a basket of cherimoyas. A constant talking, carried 
on in long, drawling, nasal tones, seems to indicate an amiable 
docility, though they are generally alive to their own interests, 
and not unfrequently sell articles for less than one half of the 
price first demanded. Several kinds of excellent fish are sold 
in this market ; the corvina, the flounder, and the pampano, are 
best; the latter, caught only at Chorillos, is not always to be 
obtained, and is so highly esteemed, that one weighing eight 
or ten pounds, readily commands five or six dollars. The beef 
possesses more flavor, and is perhaps better than at any other 
place on the coast. The mutton is excellent. Poultry is dear, 
and with the exception of ducks, is very inferior in flavor. 

The purlieus of the plaza are peopled with dogs and buzzards, 
that hover round to pick up whatever falls in their way. Bul- 
locks are slaughtered in the open road, just outside of the town, 
and the meat, after being dressed, is brought to the shambles 
on jackasses, or in carts. 

Along the eastern side of Callao, is a "tapia" (mud wall), for- 
merly used as a defence, but now entirely abandoned. A canal, 
running along side of the Lima road, supplies the place, as well 
as the shipping, with water ; for the latter, it is brought to the 



' Peso, equal to 


$1 00 


Dos reales, do. 


25 


Real, do. 


m 


Medio, do. 


6k 


_ Cuartillo, do. 


3 



Silver. < 
There is neither copper nor paper money in the Republic. 



188 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC, 

mole in wooden conduits, where it is very readily filled into 
casks, without removing them from the boat. Just outside of 
the tapia is a sort of lock, where, from morning till night, are 
assembled negro and white women, washing linen by the pro- 
cess (not the most approved) of pounding it with stones, and 
spreading it out on the neighboring green. Horses are also 
carried there to drink and to be washed ; all of which, it is 
thought, does not impair the good qualities of the water for 
most domestic purposes. 

On working days and holy-days, Callao presents an active 
scene. During business hours, the basin, formed by the mole, 
is covered with launches and boats. The mole is piled up with 
boxes and bales of merchandise ; large heaps of wheat, some- 
times containing thousands of bushels ; mules and asses, loading 
and unloading ; merchants and clerks ; guards and custom house 
officers — all crowded upon it, each pushing and jostling his 
way, and overcoming all resistance. Amidst the trampled dust, 
no very idle part is enacted by the millions of fleas, on the 
feet and ankles of all who intrude upon them. A sentinel stands 
at the landing slip, opposite to which is a sort of sentry-box, 
where the officers of the guard lounge, and smoke paper cigars, 
through the twenty-four hours. At night the posts are increas- 
ed, and no person is permitted to land or embark after eight 
o'clock, without special permission from the captain of the port. 

The street presents negroes in dirty, tattered ponchos, slouch- 
ed straw hats, bragas, or large bottomed breeches, bare legs, 
and raw hide sandals on the feet. The women ride astride, 
and display a superior knowledge of horsemanship. The men 
wear short jackets, and are constantly smoking cigars ; officers 
of the garrison, in gay uniforms, saunter about on foot, or are 
seen on splendid steeds, handsomely caparisoned, curvetting 
and caracoling through the streets. 

The appearance of Callao is by no means favorable, and no 
one would ever suspect its being other than a very disagreea- 
ble place. Strangers generally dislike it very much, which is 
not surprising, for there is little or no society to be found, except 
in the summer, when a few families resort thither for the pur- 
pose of sea bathing, of which the Peruvians are passionately 



NOTICES OP PERF. 189 

fond. At that time terttilias are formed, generally ending in 
gambling parties, in which ladies and gentlemen promiscuously 
engage. Foreigners amuse themselves in walking, playing bil- 
liards, or bowles, for which there are several alleys. 

The site of old Callao, which is between Castle Independence 
and the south battery, is, like Golgotha, a place of skulls and 
human bones. The vaulted roofs of some of the churches still 
remain, and are on a level with the surface. Into these all the 
bodies of those who died during the siege and blockade of 1825, 
were thrown, without changing the dress in which they expired 
or were killed. Many of the bodies are shrivelled and dried, 
but show no sign of putrefaction having taken place. Here 
were buried the family of Torre Tagle, Marquis of Truxillo, 
who perished in the castle, with many others, from famine. 
Provisions became so scarce towards the close of the siege, 
that the marquis, it is said, gave a jewel, worth jg 30,000, for 
a single chicken ! The bones now seen, are of those who pe- 
rished at that time, and were not washed out by the sea, as has 
been suggested, for it rarely reaches where they are.* 

About the year 1650, Callao contained six hundred Spanish 
families, besides Indians, Mestizos, Mulattoes and Negroes ; 
also four convents, viz., Santo Domingo, San Francisco, San 
Augustin, La Merced, and a house of Jesuits.! 



• Morrel's Voyages. 

f Albores del Sol del Nuevo Mundo. 



/ 



190 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER II. 



Ride to Lima — The Road — Monument — Bellavista — Treasure — Church of 
Palms — Market women — Sambo de la Legua — Church — Negroes dancing 
— Mules and asses — Alameda de la Portada — Meet a pleasure party — Lima 
gate — Entrance to the city — Animas — First view of " the street of Callao.'* 

The road to Lima is nearly a straight line, drawn over an 
inclined plane, which gradually rises from the sea, till it is lost 
in the base of the hills of Amancaes and San Cristoval. Though 
to the eye the road from Callao appears to be perfectly level, 
the great plaza of Lima stands one hundred and seventy varas 
(Spanish yards)* above the sea. It was constructed by the vice- 
roy, Don Ambrosio O'Higgins, in 1799, and had the original 
plan been carried out, would have rivaled any thing of the kind 
in South America. A low brick wall or curb runs along each 
side of a centre road, whose surface is two or three feet above 
carriage roads, which are on either side. This arrangement is 
not complete through the whole extent, but is interrupted, and 
a part of the distance is travelled on the lateral roads, which, 
I believe, were originally designed to be the beds of streams. 
The greater part of the way is covered with loose pebbles, 
giving it no very distant resemblance to a shingle beach. 

I joined a party on horseback, soon after arriving in the 
roads — sorry stumbling nags we found — and set off in the 
morning for the capital, far farmed once as " City of Kings," 
afterwards as '' City of the Free," but still more widely known 
by the original name, Lima. We were soon out of Callao, and 
found the road running in a straight line ; and on the right and 
behind us, when fairly on the way, was the gate and draw- 
bridge of El Castillo de la Independencia. Curiosity carried 
our eyes in every direction. To the right, all round the castle 
to the sea, was an irregular shingle, and to the left, a broad, 
green meadow, covered with rank grass, spread itself to the 
view. Just at the skirts of Callao, and at the beginning of the 

* Equal to 32 English inches. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 191 

road, were planted two or three posts, around which were offal 
and a number of dogs, with other appearances marking the 
spot where beef is slaughtered for the market. 

After we had passed the women washing at the lock of the 
canal, the first figures we saw were two soldiers on foot, mak- 
ing their way towards Callao. They wore tall, compressed, 
blue cloth caps, with red bands and without vizier, coarse gray 
pantaloons, made full, resembling the dress worn in some of 
our state prisons, and short blue jackets. Their complexion 
was dark mulatto. They trudged along the canal, barefoot, 
with a bundle hanging on a stick over the shoulder, appearing 
like men fatigued from a long march. The next object that 
engaged our attention was a cross, erected on a square pedestal, 
to the right of the road, and about half way between Bellavista 
and Callao, which is said to mark the spot where the sea reach- 
ed in the great earthquake of 1 746 ; and some add, that a fri- 
gate was thrown there at the time by the force of the waves. 
A few years since, Bellavista was a flourishing village. It was 
built in 1747, and intended to be the port, but in the course 
of time, the terror caused by the great earthquake wore away, 
and the present Callao grew up. This checked the improve- 
ment of Bellavista. Frequent earthquakes, the bombardings 
from the castle, its alternate possession by the royalist and pa- 
triot troops, during the war of the revolution, have left it a 
heap of ruins, which shelter some few Indian and negro fa- 
milies. Between Bellavista and the cross just mentioned, are 
the remains of a breast work, thrown up and defended by the 
patriots when General Rodil was in possession of the castles. 

Presently we met a drove of mules, laden with silver, and 
guarded by a half dozen soldiers — some of African, and others 
of Indian origin. This treasure, amounting to eighty thousand 
dollars, was about being shipped to England. Close after 
them came a troop of asses, almost completely hidden in stacks 
of green alfalfa* — a species of trefoil highly nutritious to horses 
— aptly enough compared to the moving of « Birnam wood." 

On the left, we came up to La Iglesia de las Palmas — the 

* Mendicago satwa of botanists. 



192 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

church of Palms, or Baquijano, which, in 1825, served as an 
ambush for the patriots in a sharp skirmish with a royal party 
from the castles. On that day, from Lima gates to Callao, the 
road was strewed with dead. The cruel Rodil would not con- 
sent to the bodies being buried — they laid there till the buz- 
zards and vultures removed them ! 

A party of market people, closely followed by one of plea- 
sure, passed us. The market women were mounted on asses, 
with saddles made high and square on top, with pillions of 
sheep skins, tanned with the wool on. The samba women 
were seated astride, presenting, from the great breadth of the 
saddle, a most grotesque appearance. The well expanded leg, 
cased in a silk stocking, was visible to the knee. The foot, set 
off in a green or particolored slipper, and armed with a great 
spur, was constantly swung with a careless air against the sides 
of the patient donkey. A figured calico gown, and a large 
cotton shawl, with the right corner flung over the left shoulder, 
and a high crowned Guayaquil hat, tied under the chin with a 
black ribbon, the rim being left free, completed the costume. 
Some had large panniers of fruit slung to the sides of their beasts, 
and others had two sheep ready for the market, tied together 
by the hind legs, hung over the saddle bow. Some had their 
infant children with them, suspended over the back in a shawl 
or poncho. These women were mostly embonpoint, or even 
corpulent, with round, shining faces and placid countenances. 

The pleasure party was also of the sambo caste. The wo- 
men were laughing, and prancing along on spirited horses, ac- 
companied by sambos and negroes. The females were dressed 
in white gowns, white ponchos, Manila hats, highly glazed 
and decorated, with a bow and band of black ribbon, secured 
under the chin, (the rim floating free), silk hose, gay colored 
slippers and spurs. The hair was frizzed over the shoulders, 
and thickly sprinkled with jasmine flowers. They sat astride, 
and managed their horses admirably. The beaux also wore 
Manila hats, white ponchos, and white jean pantaloons. Their 
heavy spurs, with rowels not less than two inches in diameter, 
were supported by a leathern heel piece. At a distance it was 
difficult to distinguish the women from the men, and when near. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 1§3 

nothing but the bare leg of the female pointed out the differ- 
ence of sex ! 

We had scarcely passed this party, when an officer and two 
soldiers shot by us in full gallop for Lima. We learned after- 
wards, that it was a lieutenant, bearing an ordinary despatch 
from Callao to the government. 

We stopped at the half way house, and indeed our horses 
were so accustomed to halt there, that they trotted up to the 
shed of their own free will. The "tambo de la Legua" is a 
pulperla at which most travellers rest for a few minutes. Be- 
side it stands a church, called La Legua, (hence the name of 
the tambo), at the door of which was an image of the Virgin, 
standing on a table, with a crucifix and a silver plate before it, 
half full of " reales" and "medios.'^ A friar, in a coarse tunic, 
with a long beard and shaven crown, stood near, begging alms 
for " la santisima Virgen" — the most holy Virgin, and extend- 
ing the crucifix to be kissed by all those who bestowed charity 
in the silver plate. 

The tambo is a low, one story building, bearing the marks 
of great age ; the large opening in front, like a huge window, 
from which liquors and cigars are dispensed at low prices, is 
worn by the frequent handling of customers. On the counter, 
which may be compared to a broad window sill, there are always 
burning two or three knots of wood for the convenience of 
lighting cigars. The roof extends out in front, affording an 
ample shade for those who stop to partake of the " good things" 
provided. On either side of this shed is a low adobe seat, for 
the accommodation of foot passengers. No customer ever 
enters the door — a wise precaution against the inebriated, who 
are not to be trusted amongst bottles and glasses. 

The scene at the tambo was curiously contrasted with the 
religiously grave friar and holy Virgin. Though not twenty 
yards apart, there was a party of negroes, men and women, 
with scarcely tatters enough to hide their nakedness, wriggling 
fandangos under the shed, to the music of a rude harp, played 
by an old, frosty headed negro, accompanied by the nasal, 
twanging voices of black wenches, who also beat time with* 
their palms on the body of the instrument. Both men and 
25 



194 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

women were bare legged to the knee. The former wore large, 
full bottomed bragas, or breeches, and long woollen ponchos, 
,with tall, sugar-loaf-crowned, Guayaquil hats. Their legs were 
of the true negro formation ; the calf gathered up close to the 
knee, and a long, slim shank, attached to a broad, flat foot, with 
the heels extending almost as far behind as the toes did forward. 
The women had on ragged woollen petticoats, plaited full round 
the waist ; the bust was but illy concealed in a dingy chemise ; 
the arms were bare ; a handkerchief or shawl was girt around 
the hips, so as to draw the petticoat smooth over the abdomen, 
and gather it up full behind, and shorten it withal. The hands 
were sometimes akimbo, sometimes flung in the air, and the 
figures leaned forward as they advanced and retreated in the 
dance. The step was an awkward movement of quickly cross- 
ing one foot over the other in front, without lifting it high 
from the ground, only varied by an occasional hop, and accom- 
panied by an indescribable wriggling of the hips. The dance 
was disgustingly lascivious, and the voices of the females 
coarse and disagreeable. The whole party were excited by 
frequent potations of pisco and chicha. 

There were two Peruvian officers, of high rank, smoking, 
and looking on the dance with great gravity. Their gorge- 
ous uniforms, almost hidden in gold embroidery, contrasted 
strangely with the squalid garments of the merry negroes. 
Two or three asses, with serious faces, stood gazing quietly 
on the scene. One water carrier leaned his head on his arms, 
which were embracing the saddle bow of his donkey, with a 
leg crossed and resting on the ground. His countenance was 
distorted by a broad smile of approbation, that seemed to be 
generating at the very bottom of his heart The steeds of the 
officers looked impatient, neighed, pawed the earth, and threw 
up their heads. 

Before we left the tambo, two stage coaches drove up ; one 
from Lima, the other from Callao. Both were filled with fo- 
reigners, and one was completely shrouded in tobacco smoke. 
Smoking in Peru is universal ; even ladies of the better classes 
ire not exempt from this practice. 
• After ten minutes' rest, we again mounted, and pushed on 



NOTICES OP PERTT. 195 

towards the capital. Parties similar to those we had met, passed 
us, with now and then a " valencin," which is a two wheeled 
carriage, drawn by two mules abreast, on one of which a postil- 
lion rides. When new and in fine order, this vehicle is a calesa ; 
but worn for some time, it degenerates into a "valencin," as 
private carriages, in the course of time, dwindle into hackney 
coaches in the United States. We overtook a drove of asses, 
laden with kegs. Two were too much for a single ass, so that 
a large stone was slung on one side to balance the keg on the 
other. This plan is not unfrequently adopted by the "arrieros," 
or muleteers, when the packages are too large to be carried in 
pairs by a mule or donkey. Mules generally carry two barrels 
of flour at a load, from Callao to Lima, a distance of seven 
miles, over a stony road. 

To the right and left of the road are seen large mounds of 
earth, termed Huacas, which are the remaining monuments 
of the ancient Peruvians. Until it approaches within a quarter 
of a mile of the city gate, the Lima road is an unpleasant one. 
To the right it is flanked by high mud walls, and on the left 
is a meadow overgrown in places with cane brakes, which, 
some years ago, were the ambuscades of highwaymen. Near 
the metropolis, the country assumes a more smiling aspect. 
The dusty highway becomes an avenue of double rows of wil- 
low trees, with bubbling streams running on either hand. 
Stone seats are conveniently placed beneath their shade in the 
side alleys, which are lower than the main road. On each 
side the garden walls are overhung by orange, lemon, citron, 
and palta trees ; — the air is redolent with the odors of the 
cherimoya and orange ; its stillness, even at noon, is broken 
by the various notes of the feathered tribes. Large circles are 
placed equidistant on the road, to the number of four, called 
"6valos," designated as first, second, &c., beginning at the 
gate. The road cuts them diametrically, leaving a semicircle 
on each side, surrounded by a stone seat. The round base of 
stone in the centre of each " &valo,'' was intended to be a foun- 
tain. This avenue is called, "La Alameda de la Portada.'* 
Here, morning and evening, are seen people enjoying the 
" paseo ;" civilians and military men ; churchmen and laymen. 



196 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and women of every caste and rank in society. But it is sel- 
dom crowded, except on feast days. When we passed, we only 
saw a Franciscan friar, strolling along, in conversation with a 
negro woman, carrying a basket of oranges on her head. 

Not far from the gate, we met a group of natives on horse- 
back. The gentlemen were in short white jackets, full white 
pantaloons, the ponchos hanging carelessly over one arm, Ma- 
nila hats, fastened with black ties under the chin, and the heels 
armed with long shanked silver spurs. The horses of all were 
caparisoned strictly after the fashion of the country. The sad- 
dle rises high before and behind, and is covered with blue pil- 
lions, secured by girths, forming a deep seat, from which it is 
difficult to be thrown, because the front corners of the saddle 
curve backwards over the thighs, forming for them a complete 
case. The stirrups are of pyramidal blocks of dark, wood, 
carved in various figures, and the corners are covered with 
plates of silver. In one side a hole is scooped out to receive 
the foot. A broad piece of leather, cut into a sort of filigree 
figures, extends from the back of the saddle to the tail, and a 
similar piece passes round the hams and flank, which gives to 
this furniture the appearance of that of a coach horse. The 
whole is ornamented with silver buckles and rings, and the 
head piece with a profusion of studs of the same metal. The 
ladies, who were of the middle age, sat straight in their sad- 
dles, which were in all respects like those of the men, except 
that the stirrups were silver, and the reins were of a finer tex- 
ture. They wore full ponchos, which covered the upper part 
of the figure ; that of the youngest, who was perhaps twenty 
years of age, was striped in a flowered pattern of gay colors. 
The hair hung in braids down the back from under the Ma- 
nila hat, which sat square on the head. Fine white pantalets, 
fringed with lace at the bottom, a white silk sock and satin 
slipper, set ofi" a beautiful foot, armed with a golden spur. The 
party consisted of six persons. Their horses were spirited, and 
the ladies managed them with perfect skill, now checking, and 
touching them at the same time with the spur, causing the ani- 
mal to throw up his head proudly and dance off to one side ; 
now, giving rein and spur at the same time, dash off at a full 



NOTICES OF PERU. 197 

gallop for a hundred yards, and then check him into a sudden 
halt. The men played off their steeds in the same manner, 
wheeling and caracoling about the ladies. The faces of all were 
animated by smiles and gay conversation. The females were 
brunettes, and seemed full of enjoyment. The party dashed 
by us at a full gallop, the long tails of their horses, and the 
ponchos and hair streaming behind them.* 

Such were the groups met with on the road, going in one 
direction or the other. Sometimes the whole road appeared 
choked with asses loaded with fresh cut grass. Again, a " re- 
cua,'' or drove of unladen mules, were urged on at a full gal- 
lop by the "arriero," sitting erect in his saddle, head up, 
poncho knotted round his waist, the reins of the mule held 
high over its head with the left hand, while with the right he 
whirled over his own head a long thong of hide. His legs, at 
every spring of the animal, struck the huge rowels into the 
mule's sides. As he sprang forward, wheeling from one side 
of the road to the other, to keep his mules together, he cried, 
^' arre mula — grandisima * * * !" evincing, with the last re- 
proachful epithet, his impatience, by a heavy discharge of his 
thong on the back of the hindmost mule. Then away they 
scampered, the dry hide " capachos," or bags, lashed to the 
pack saddles, clattering at a great rate as they dashed along. 

Again, the asses presented a most grotesque appearance, 
piled up and almost concealed beneath baskets of poultry and 
fruit, or whole sheep dressed for the market. Then came an 
old, long backed "rocin," or hack, with three or four long 
legged, lean looking Indians seated on his back, from his neck 
to his tail. And certainly, the most ugly old woman I ever 
saw, was seated cross legged on the back of a donkey, and a 
little Indian riding behind her. 



• whether it is really more indelicate for a female than for a male to ride 
astride, I am not called upon to pronounce. At first, it does not square with our 
notions of propriety ; but on a closer examination, I could discover nothing im- 
modest in the appearance of a lady's foot and ankle, cased in a pantalette, nor 
did it seem more shocking than the tightly covered leg of the booted cavalier. 
One reason in favor of ladies riding after this fashion. Is that they are more 
secure in the saddle, and need less the assistance of an attendant caballero. 



198 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

Now and then we saw a most amicable company of dogs and 
*' gallinazos," or buzzards, feasting on the carcass of a mule or 
ass, that had dropped down and died by the way. I have seen 
these birds attack the body of a mule before the breath had 
entirely left it, and in the course of a few hoars leave nothing 
but the skeleton ! They are the only scavengers in Peru. The 
law protects them from molestation ; a fine being imposed on 
any person who may wantonly kill one of the tribe. 

The entrance into Lima is through a huge gate. There is a 
large centre arch, and a smaller one on each side, which are 
closed at night with massy doors, correspondent to the arches 
in size. In 1825, some eulogistic sentences on Bolivar were 
written over the great entrance, but in 1827, the tide of popu- 
lar feeling having turned against him, his name was blotted 
out, and that of La Mar substituted ; the eulogy, however, 
remaining unchanged. In 1829, the popularity of this chief 
dwindled away, and his name and eulogy are now washed 
over with lime ; — sic transit gloria mundi. 

On the left side of the gate is a small building, occupied by 
the officers of the Resguardo — that department of the custom 
house which is constantly on the alert to detect and prevent illi- 
cit trade. Here, all baggage, and every package of goods, are 
examined, unless accompanied by a « guia," or permit, from the 
Aduana, or custom house. Here also a toll is collected for 
every laden mule or ass that passes to and from Lima. 

Two long mud walls stand on the sides of the street, or ra- 
ther avenue, which leads into the "City of the Free." At 
about a hundred yards from the gate, it terminates in a street, 
called "La calle del Callao." The first thing we remarked, 
was the mean appearance of the houses, and the heavy, closed 
balconies, jutting out in front. At the corners, are two rude 
wooden figures, painted red, placed about twelve feet above 
the ground, with a representation of flames curling round them. 
These half figures have the hands clasped in the attitude of 
prayer. They are termed "dnimas," or souls, and are intend- 
ed as mementos of the torments of purgatory. Similar figures 
are common in all parts of the city. On the dead wall of a 



NOTICES OP PERU. 199 

house, not far from the commencement of this street, is a rough 
picture of the Devil carrying off the Saviour to the Mount. 

In spite of the "dnimas,"*the corner houses are occupied 
as grog shops, where there were a dozen negroes, men and wo- 
men, dancing fandangos, under the influence of pisco or Peru- 
vian brandy. And, as if to aid the Snimas in their pious inten- 
tion of rescuing the living from the pains of the damned, there 
was a friar, of the Order of Descalzos (Barefooted), in a 
sackcloth tunic and leather girdle, holding in one hand a tin 
box surmounted by a cross, having a slit in the top to receive 
any alms that might be bestowed, while in the other he held a 
long Staff. He was smiling on the scene before him ; the staff 
involuntarily kept time to the music. "The spirit seemed 
willing, but the flesh was weak. " 

As we proceeded along the street, for several cuddras, or 
squares, we saw many figures and customs which to us were 
entirely new. The flat roofs, the abrupt termination of the 
walls above, the faded green balconies, the great doorways and 
grated windows, and the dingy white, scaly walls, gave an im- 
pression of poverty and seclusion. The windows are large, and 
secured on the outside with vertical iron bars, placed about 
four inches asunder ; the lower part is shut on the inside with 
a close trellis, generally painted green. From the window 
projecting a few inches on the street, and the walls being very 
thick, the sill is broad. Behind the trellis, which hides the in- 
terior of the house from passers-by, we saw females seated on 
the broad sill, with their feet drawn up, and dresses loose, 
smoking cigars, and peeping into the street. The balconies 
were occupied by females similarly engaged. As we rode 
along, we met water carriers riding on donkeys, officers in 
gay uniforms, friars of several orders, women in saya y manto 
— in short, so many sights, new and strange to us, that the at- 
tention could not rest long enough on any one to register its 
peculiarities in the mind. 

We found comfortable lodgings, not far from the plaza, at a 
hotel kept by an obliging French woman. 



SOO THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

CHAPTER III. 

History of the founding of Lima. 

Every circumstance connected with the founding of a new 
empire is more or less interesting. It is curious to see the an- 
ticipations of greatness, displayed by the founders, in the care 
and exactness observed in the planting of great cities. FraN' 
CISCO iPizARRO, the conqueror of Peru, looked forward, no 
doubt, with feelings of exalted interest, to the day when "the 
City of Kings" should be as magnificent as its name portended. 
And when he traced the streets and squares of the metropolis 
of the empire he had won, he felt that his name would pass to 
future ages with that of the city he planned. 

Where the capital should be placed was a question not has- 
tily decided upon. Several situations were tried and aban- 
doned, for want of those conveniences and resources required 
by the inhabitants of a great city. 

In the j^ear 1533, the site of an Indian village called Jauja 
— anciently Xatjxa, which is about forty leagues east of Lima, 
was selected as the capital of conquered Peru. In the first few 
months, an university and several public institutions were 
founded. In order to have a sea port for this city, Pizarro 
despatched Don Nicolas de Ribera, as captain and lieutenant 
general, to take possession of Pachacamac in the name of the 
king, and to leave population enough on the coast to form a 
town. The execution of this order gave birth to the town of 
Sangallan, thirty-five leagues to the south of Lima, and near 
Canete. On the 29th of November 1534, the situation of 
Jauja having been found not adapted for the metropolis, an or- 
der was obtained, in consequence of a petition from the Ca- 
bildo and the Alcaldes, to move the city to Sangallan. At the 
expiration of ten or twelve days, they became dissatisfied with 
this change, and leaving thirty men in Sangallan, marched to 
the village of Pachacamac. Here they found some advantages 



NOTICES OF PERU. 201 

and many inconveniences for the location of their city, and 
while discussing the matter amongst themselves, the valley of 
Rimac was suggested as being an advantageous position for the 
projected capital. Pizarro then appointed three commissioners, 
Rui Diaz, Juan Tello, and Alonso Martin de Don Benito, to 
go, with a cacique of Rimac, and examine the valley. The 
order to the commissioners is dated Pachacamac, January 8th, 
1535. At the end of six days, having considered the several 
points, of the vicinity of the sea, the proximity of the river, 
the fertility of the soil, and the amenity of the skies, they re- 
turned, and reported that they had selected an advantageous 
position for the founding of a capital. 

On the eighteenth day of January 1535, the city of Lima 
was founded, under the name of "La ciudad de los Reyes," 
suggested, as many suppose, from the foundation being laid on 
the day of the Epiphany.* As the Spaniards in all cases paid 
a profound and even solemn respect to the forms at least of the 
Christian religion, Pizarro having marked out the plaza and 
general plan of the city, laid with his own hands the corner 
stone of a church, which he dedicated to Our Lady of the As- 
sumption. This church is now the cathedral of Lima. But 
Pope Paul IIL, having given the same title to the church in 
Cuzco, dedicated this to St. John the Evangelist. 

The word Rimac was changed to Lima by the Spaniards, 
from the then prevailing habit of confounding, in pronun- 
ciation, the R and the L. 

Having founded the city, Pizarro petitioned the Emperor 
Charles V. to assign to it a coat of arms. He gave the three 
crowns and the star of the magi, with the two eagles and co- 
lumns of the Plus Ultra, and the two letters, I. K., the initials 
of Juana and Carlos. 

When the city was founded, only twelve Spaniards were 
present ; but in the course of a few days, thirty came from 



* Herrera follows Garcilaso, and says, that Lima was founded on the day of 
the Epiphany ; but Calancha, Montalvo, and other writers, who are generally 
followed, state, that it was on the eighteenth of January, the anniversary of 
the festival of St. Peter's chair. Fide, Frezier's Voyage. 
2'6 



202 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

> 

Sangallan, and others from Jauja, increasing the number to 
seventy. 

The valley of Rimac was inhabited, previous to the conquest, 
by the subjects of the Grand Chimu, who was conquered by 
the Inca Yupanqui. In this valley were many large Huacas, 
of which there are extensive remains to this day. The Huaca 
of Rimac, or ''the God that speaks," was near the garden or 
orchard of the convent of Santo Domingo, formerly called 
La chacra de Rimactanpu, now Limatambo. The term 
Rimac is the opposite of Pachacamac, which designates the 
God who created the world and gave life to the universe, but 
who was never heard nor seen. The ruins of the temple of 
Pachacamac still remain, and are visited by all travellers in 
Peru. It is supposed by some, that the valley Rimac derived 
its name from the noise made by the river in its brawling 
course ; but the Fray Calancha tells us, that he inquired of an 
old Indian who was governor of Magdalena, why they called 
it Rimac. He replied; "Art thou, perchance, one of those 
who believe that it is so called on account of the river? The 
God whom my ancestors adored was thus named, because he 
spoke to them and answered their questions, which was never 
known of the Huaca of Pachacamac ; and, therefore, in honor 
of their God, they called his valley Rimac." This explana- 
tion was never contradicted by any one of the many Indians of 
whom Calancha asked the meaning of the term. 

The above account is given on the authority of Francisco 
Antonio Montalvo, (Life of Santo Torribio, written in 1683, 
and printed by the procurement of Doctor Don Juan Francisco 
de Valladolid, under the title of " Albores del Sol del nuevo 
mundo;") of Fray Antonio de la Calancha, ("Choronica del 
orden de San Augustin ;) of Garcilaso (" Comentarios Reales ;") 
of Antonio de Herrera ("Historia de las Indias;") and of Pe- 
ralta, (" Lima Fundada, o' Conquista del Peru," an epic poem, 
printed at Lima, 1732). 



NOTICES OP PERU. 203 



CHAPTER IV. 



Topography and climate of Lima — Plan and divisions of the city — ^Walls — 
Distribution of property — Population — ^Religious communities. 



Lima, or as it is now occasionally styled, in the grandilo- 
quence inherited from the " father land," " City of the Free," 
is built on the southern bank of the river Rimac, which sepa- 
rates it from the suburb of San Lazaro. It is sheltered to the 
north and east by the hills of Amancaes and San Cristoval, 
which may be considered as mountain spurs of the iV.ndes, the 
great chain of which runs, north and south, about twenty 
leagues east of the city. When the sky is clear, their snowy 
peaks are seen, not only from Lima, but from a long distance 
at sea. San Cristoval rises 1170 feet, and Amancaes 2560 feet, 
above the level of the Ocean.* 

The cross erected on the summit of San Cristoval, is to com- 
memorate a signal victory, gained over the Indians by the 
Spaniards, through the miraculous aid of that saint. About two 
years after the founding of Lima, there was a general rise of 
the Indians throughout Peru. Cuzco was besieged, and seven- 
ty thousand Indians occupied the northern bank of the Rimac. 
In order to be free from the action of the Spanish cavalry, the 
great body of the Peruvian army was stationed on the hill in 
question. Whenever they poured down the hill to the attack, 
the river suddenly rose, and many were drowned ; but when the 
Spaniards advanced, commending themselves, as they rushed 
forward, to the care of San Cristoval and Santiago, the waters 
remained shallow, to the great dismay of their enemies, " being 
to them, "^ says Garcilaso, " what the Red Sea was to the Phili- 
stines."t 



* uWnu£. Observaciones sobre el clima de Lima. Madrid. 1S15.' 
t Gjurcilaso. Comentarios Reales. Lib. 2. cap. 23. 



204 THREE YEAKS IN THE PACIFIC. 

To the south and west, Lima is open to the breezes which 
blow from that quarter over the bosom of the Pacific, cooling 
the air of summer, and clearing away the fogs and mists which 
hang heavy over the city in the winter. 

From the stone bridge, built in 1610, over the river, is a 
beautiful view of the Rimac, which in winter is but a brawling 
brook, split into streams by a number of pebbly islands, which 
sprinkle its bed ; while in summer, when it is swollen by the 
melting snows of the Cordilleras, it rushes impetuously to the 
sea. On the left bank, looking to the southward, are seen the 
Alam6da del Acho, and the snowy peaks of the Andes, tower- 
ing far above the cross of San Cristoval ; on the right are the 
Convent of San Francisco, with its garden and out buildings, 
and beyond the precincts of the city, the Pantheon, half hidden 
amidst gardens and trees. The view is closed by mountains, 
rising one above the other, till the most distant seem to sup- 
port the blue vault. To the northward, the eye is lost amongst 
valleys and hills, and to the west, the immense Pacific expands 
away till it meets the arching sky. 

The climate of Lima is perhaps the most flattering in the 
world. The soil and skies have been themes of praise both 
with historians and poets. 

*' En su horizonte el Sol todo es Aurora } 
Eterna el tiempo todo es primavera ; 
Solo es risa del cielo cada hora ; 
Cada mes es cuenta de la esphera : 
Son cada viento un halito de Flora, 
Cada arroyo una Musa lisonjera ; 
Y los vergeles, que el confin le debe, 
Nubes fragantes con que al cielo Uueve !'*• 

This valley may be said to enjoy an eternal spring, for vege- 
tation and fructification are constantly going forward. We see 
in the same garden, one tree putting forth its tender blossoms, 
while another is bending beneath its matured fruit ; and both 
phenomena are sometimes seen upon the branches of the same 
plant. Wherever water reaches it, the soil, though not deep, 

* Peralta. Lima Fundada, o* Conquista del Peru. torn. 2. p. 289., cant 8. 
at DL Lima 1732. 



NOTICES OP FERU. 205 

is abundantly prolific. The atmosphere is cloudy and humid, 
yet it may be said with propriety, that it never rains ! The 
vapors raised from the Ocean, by the power of the sun, form 
an awning over the city for the greater part of the day. Day- 
break is accompanied with a dense fog, which conceals objects 
that are but a short distance from the eye. As the sun climbs 
the heavens, the fog rises, discovering the surrounding coun- 
try, and at midday, the clear blue sky breaks for a short time 
upon the sight As the sun declines, the azure becomes gra- 
dually obscured by clouds. At night the gentle breezes of the 
south urge on more vapors to supply those of the preceding 
day. Such is the successive change, except for a few days in 
midsummer, when it is cloudless, and a few in the depth of 
winter, when there is a constant mist. The thermometer (F.) 
ranges from 51° the coolest, to 81° the warmest day in the 
year, and rarely travels beyond those limits. The barometer 
usually stands at twenty-seven inches four lines, varying only 
from two to four lines, through the year.* This atmosphere 
is seldom changed or renovated, because thunder, lightning, 
and tempests are almost unknown on the sea board, yet their 
place is awfully filled by frequent and sometimes terrible earth- 
quakes 1 In the mountains, however, amidst the lofty peaks 
of the Cordilleras, terrific storms, accompanied by thunder and 
lightning, are not unfrequent ; the glow of lightning is occa- 
sionally perceived from the coast. From six to twelve, or even 
more, slight earthquakes are felt annually, but the great con- 
cussions seem to observe a periodical return at the end of about 
a half century. The following table of earthquakes, which have 
occurred since the conquest, at Quito, Arequipa, and Lima, 
seems to confirm this statement. It is taken from Dr. Unanu6'3 
excellent work on the climate already referred to. 



Arequipa. 

1582. 


Lima. 

1586. 


Quito. 

1587. 


1604. 


1630. 


1645. 


1687. 


1687. 


1698. 


1715, 


1746. 


1757. 


1784. 


1806. 


1797. 



Unanu& 



206 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

The year is divided into two seasons, summer and winter. 
Towards the close of April, the fogs become dense, and cover 
the sky, day and night; the mists commence, and continue, in 
damp years, without interruption, till the sun approaches the 
solstice, when the days become clear and warm ; the vapors 
are dissipated, and we have the " veranito de San Juan" — the 
little summer of St. John, answering to the Indian summer of 
the autumn in the United States. This passes away, and in the 
months of July and August, prevail the heavy mists, called, 
in the native language of the Incas, gdrua, and by foreigners, 
ironically, " Peruvian dew." The weather is then cool, but 
fires are never required to sit by, though the necessity of them 
is sometimes discussed by strangers. 

Why it never rains in Lima, nor along the coast, from Lat. 
6°S. to 23° S., may be thus explained. The aqueous vapors 
constantly raised from the Pacific, immediately after formation, 
are attracted by the mountains, or forced there by the prevail- 
ing winds, but instead of bursting in showers, undergo a sort 
of leakage, because the clouds float so low, that the minute par- 
ticles of mist do not fall far enough to form distinct drops. Yet 
this may be owing rather to the electrical condition and rela- 
tions of the mountains and valleys, than to an attracting power. 
However, the phenomenon ceases in the western regions, be- 
yond the influence of the Cordilleras. It has been remarked 
by Dr. Unanu6, that the great rains of the Andes are the re- 
sult of the vaporization of the Pacific ; and that, as a conse- 
quence, are formed the great rivers, emptying into the Atlantic; 
thus, through the air, by the intervention of the mountains, the 
former becomes a tributary to the latter Ocean. The birth of 
the Amazon and the La Plata, may have been the ruin of the 
fabled land of Atlantis. 

Notwithstanding that it is so agreeable to the senses, the 
climate of Lima is enervating; and previous to acclimation, fo- 
reigners are very obnoxious to diseases of the liver and diges- 
tive organs, for which, in many instances, nothing is eflfectual 
but changing it for the more genial skies of Chile. 

Lima is laid out in equal squares of four hundred feet, divid- 
ed by streets thirty-three and a half feet wide, which intersect 



NOTICES OF PERtJ. 207 

each other at right angles. The courses of the streets do not 
follow the cardinal points, but vary from east to south-east j 
** a precaution taken by the founder," says the poet Valdes, 
« that the walls might cast a shade both in the morning and 
afternoon.^' Including thirty in the suburb called El Cercado, 
the city contained, in 1791, no less than two hundred and nine 
squares, and three hundred and fifty-five streets.* Since that 
time, little or no improvement has been made ; not a single 
new dwelling having been built within the walls during the last 
thirty years. Through the centre of nearly all the streets, runs 
a stream of water, thcee feet wide, which is a sort of cloax or re- 
ceptacle for all kinds of filth thrown out from private dwellings. 
The streets are paved with round pebbles, and the narrow 
trottoir with flat stones, in such bad repair, however, that it 
is painful for the feet of the stranger who presses them. This 
plan extends to the suburb of San Lazaro, which is separated 
from the city proper by the Rimac. It contains the plaza del 
Acho, or bull ring, the Alam6da del Acho, and the Alam6da 
de los Descalzos, which was finished in 1611, during the vice- 
royship of the Marques de Monte Glares. 

The city is divided into four quarteles, and each one of 
these into thirty-five barrios. For each barrio an alcalde, a 
functionary similar to a Philadelphia magistrate, is selected 
from amongst its inhabitants. The clerical division is into 
eight parishes. 

The houses are generally of one story, yet there are many 
dwellings of two, which, for extent and magnificence, are com- 
parable to palaces. The walls are of mud and cut straw, 
worked up together, moulded into large sized bricks, dried in 
the sun. That the walls may be more capable of resisting the 
frequent earthquakes, stout pieces of timber are worked ia 
them, and when a second story is raised, it is constructed of 
stout, split reeds, wattled together, and then plastered over 
with mud. The roofs are flat, made of mats, covered over 
with an inch or two of earth — enough to absorb the g&vua 
which falls duciaag the winter. From a height the city resera*' 

* Mercuno FQruano, vol. 1. p. 90. 



208 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

bles a vast ruin ; the tops of the houses look as if they were 
covered with ashes, and the number of buzzards, stalking so- 
lemnly over every building, serves to enhance the impression. 

The whitewashed fronts of the houses present a puertacalle 
or great doorway, opening into a patio, across which are seen 
the windows and entrance to the drawing-room, or sometimes 
to the sala. The windows are without shutters, and until of 
late years, without glass or sash ; in their place are substituted 
*' rejas," which are fancifully formed gratings of iron, some- 
times beautifully gilt. Very few houses have windows open- 
ing from the lower story into the street. Heavy, close balco- 
nies, resembling great boxes, jut out over the great door-way ; 
they are generally green, but so seldom painted, that they look 
sad and dingy. The walls terminate abruptly on top, without 
cornice or finish of any kind, except in some of the best houses 
and public buildings. When the puertacalle opens on a dead 
wall, as is the case in many parts of the city, a landscape or 
some perspective view is painted on it to relieve the eye. 
Nevertheless, the appearance of the streets is dull and mean. 

The interior structure is light and airy, and well adapted to 
the climate. The various rooms are distributed round courts, 
which are surrounded by corridors when there are two stories, 
accessible from the patio by a broad stair. All the rooms are 
lofty. For the admission of light and air, they have square 
windows near the ceiling, closed by rough inside shutters, con- 
trolled by cords, terminated with tassels, which hang from 
spring-latches into the room. The joists or rafters which sup- 
port the roof or ceiling, as it may be, are carved and varnished. 
The floors are generally made of square earthen tiles, and in 
the best houses of Dutfeh tiles, ornamented with drawings. 
The walls are whitewashed ; within a few years, however, 
some are papered, and in the dwellings of the wealthy, tapes- 
tried with damask. Some houses have two or three courts, 
with corridors communicating one with the other. 

Almost every house has a stream of water running through 
it, which is used for domestic purposes. Gardens are rare. 
Though the Limanians are passionately fond of flowers, they 
seldom attempt any thing further in this way than the cultiva- 



NOTICES OP PERU. 



209 



tion of a few choice plants — mostly bulbs — which are displayed 
in pots around the corridors. 

The city is surrounded by a parapet wall, about seven miles 
in circuit, and pierced by six gates. It is from eighteen to 
twenty-five feet high, and about nine feet thick. It is defended 
by thirty-five bastions, each flank being ninety feet, perpen- 
dicular to the curtain, and the face about sixty yards, making 
the angle of the epaule one hundred and thirty degrees. Ex- 
cept at some of the bastions, the wall is too narrow for the 
mounting of artillery, which leads us to suppose, that it was 
constructed to guard against incursions of the Indians. They 
are without/o55e or out works, and their top is a very frequent 
promenade for foreigners, but natives seldom resort to them. 
They were built about the year 1685, during the viceroyship 
of the Duke de la Palata, by Don Juan Ramond, a Flemish 
priest. 

In 1791, the property of Lima was distributed and owned 
as follows : — 



Houses. 

9 belonged 


to 


The King. 


362 






Convents. 


216 






Monasteries. 


17 






Holy Inquisition. 


103 






Hospitals. 


24 






Holy places. 


157 






Brotherhoods. 


29 






Colleges. 


137 






Clerigos. 


61 






Private religiosos. 


29 






Individual nuns. 


2797 






Individuals. 


il, 3941 





It will be seen, on examination of the above list, that nearly 
one-third of the property belonged to the church and to charita- 
ble institutions. 

The first census of the population of Lima was made in 1600, 

27 



210 



THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



when it contained 14,262 inhabitants. The following is the 
census of 1790. 





SINGLB. 


KABRIES. 


WIDOWED. 


TOTAI. 


Spaniards, 

[ndians. 

Mestizos, 

Negroes, 

Mulattoes, 

Quarteroons, 

Quinteroons, 

Zambos, 

Chinos, 

Total, 


Men. 


Women. 


Men. 


Women. 


Men. 


Women. 


5225 
1426 
1357 
3138 
1831 

728 

76 

1139 

385 


4835 

929 

1362 

2737 

2148 

815 

91 

1308 

414 


2740 

684 
737 
1200 
775 
345 
17 
312 
135 


2603 
631 
767 

1250 
735 
290 
16 
349 
117 


370 
80 

74 
153 

78 

43 

6 

102 

26 


1442 
162 
334 
482 
405 
162 

13 
174 

43 


17,215 
3,912 
4,631 
8,960 
5,972 
2,383 
219 
3,384 
1,120 


15305 


14639 


6945 


6758 


932 


3217 


47,796 



„ , CMen, 23,182 > .- _q- 

Seculars, |women, 24^614 5 ^^'^^^• 



Religious professors, Jwo'Jien, 

Living in religious C Men, 
communities, \ Women, 



656^ »'«*'• 



1,564^ 
1,620 3 



3,184. 



Total, 



CMen, 25,737 > .^ . „ 

i Women, 26,890 5 ^^'^'''* 



The population, since 1790, has probably decreased one-fifth; 
so that the city now contains, by estimate, 40,000 inhabitants. 
This decrease must be referred to the war of the revolution, 
which carried off many in the battle fields ; others removed to 
Spain rather than join the patriot cause. 





Population of Lima. 




In the year 


1600, 


14,262 


Increase. 






1614, 


25,455 


11,193 






1700, 


37,259 


11,804 






1746, 


60,000 


22,741 


Decrease. 




1755, 


54,000 




6,000 




1781, 


60,000 


6,000 






1790, 


52,627 




7,373 



NOTICES OP PEHU. 



zit 



The earthquake of 1746, and the epidemic diseases which 
followed, caused a decrease of 6,000 in the population. From 
the repugnance of the lower orders to give the true number of 
their families, supposing that the census is for the purpose of 
levying new taxes, it is presumed that the above numbers are 
rather under than beyond the truth. 

Religious Communities. 



Orders of Friars. 


Houses. 


Number. 


Benitos, 


1 


12 


Geronimos, 


1 


3 


{Mendicants.) 






Dominicans, 


4 


272 


Franciscan, 


2 


242 


Descalzos, 


1 


60 


Missionaries of Ocopa, 




4 


Augustins, 


3 


227 


Mercedarians, 


3 


228 


Minimos, 


1 


64 


San Juan de Dios, 


1 


53 


{Regular ckrgy.) 






Agonizantes, 


2 


88 


{Cmgregation.) 






S. Felipe Neri, 


1 


94 



Total, 



20 



1347 



The above numbers include noviciates, servants, and slaves. 



Orders of Nuns. 

Berndrdas, 


Houses. 
1 


Number. 

157 


Dominicas, 


2 


225 


Franciscas Claras, 


1 


244 


Capuchinas, 
Coneebidas, 


1 
1 


39 
260 


Do. Descalzas, 


1 


155 



Carried forward, 



1080 



212 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



Orders of Nuns. 


Houses. 


Number. 


Brought forward, 


7 


1080 


Augustinas, 


2 


268 


Carmelitas Descalzas, 


2 


88 


Do. Nazarinas Descal; 


zas, 1 


47 


Trinitdrias, 


1 


53 


Merceddrias, 


1 


49 



14 



1585 



Orders of Nuns. 




Houses. 


Numbe 


Beatarias.* 








Dominicas, 




1 


53 


Franciscas, 




1 


63 


Do. Indias, 


1 


47 


Amparadas y 


Recogidas, 


1 


147 



310 



The above numbers include novices, nuns, servants, and 
slaves. 

Since this enumeration was made (1791), perhaps the num- 
ber of nuns and friars has decreased one-fifth, t 



CHAPTER V. 



Plaza — Porldles — Palace — Cathedral — Archbishop's palace — Fountains — The 
Plaza by day, and by night — Segarr^ros — Pic^ntes — Barquillos — Ice. 

The great square of Lima, in ancient times the Plaza Real, 
now Plaza de la Independencia, suggests a thousand associa- 
tions. Here Pizarro drew the plan of this Metropolis ; here he 
laid the corner stone of the Cathedral, the first building in the 

• Those females who devote their lives to religion and charity, but without 
binding themselves to seclusion, are termed Beatas. 
t Vide, Mercurio Peruano, Vol. I. 



NOTICES OF PEKU. 21 3 

« City of Kings ;" here he saw the town-house and palace rise ; 
within a few yards of this spot he lost his life, and not far off, 
now rest his bones ! Here, too, San Martin proclaimed Liber- 
ty to the inhabitants, and Bolivar was honored and contemned. 
Here Torre Tagle ordered the national hymn to be sung by 
young girls, assembled from the several schools, on every Sun- 
day morning ! For three hundred years, the plaza has been, 
by turns, the scene of business, of religious processions, of 
amatory intrigues, of festivities, and of public executions ! — 
and will probably continue so to be. The customs of Lima are 
now too old, and too deeply rooted, soon to change ! 

On the east side of the plaza, are the Cathedral, and Arch- 
bishop's palace, part of which is now occupied by the Peruvian 
Senate. On the north is what was once Pizarro's palace ; on 
the west, are the house of the Cabildo, or Municipality, the 
prison, and the offices of the Escribanos, or Scriveners ; on the 
. south, is the Portd.1 de los Botineros, and in the centre stands 
a brazen fountain, which was once glittering with gold. 

The Portdl de los Botineros, and that of the Escribanos, are 
covered walks extending along two sides of the plaza, support- 
ing a second story of irregular balconies, on arches and colon- 
nades of brick. Beneath the first are fancy stores, and against 
the colonnades are placed, in the day time, the tables and appa- 
ratus of fringe makers, of lace makers, of button makers (and 
hence the name of this one,) cases of small wares, &c. Under 
the Portdl de los Escribanos, are drygood shops, and some no- 
taries' offices. In front of them are the cases and tables of 
small drygood dealers, or permanent pedlars, with a display of 
all that a seamstress can want in the way of thread, needles, 
ribbons and tape. The tables and awnings of these traders, who 
remove them at sunset, extend over nearly one-third of the 
plaza. The upper story of the "Button-makers' Portico," is 
occupied by private families. Both portiles are paved with 
small pebbles, and the ends of leg bones, distributed so as to 
form various figures. 

The Cathedral is a noble edifice of one hundred and eighty- 
six feet front, by three hundred and twenty deep. The front 
presents three great doors, which open upon a broad terrace, 



Sl4 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and above them, an ecclesiastic coat of arms. These are sup- 
ported by Corinthian columns and figures of saints. At each 
corner is a tower rising nearly two hundred feet from its base, 
which is forty feet. They are octagonal, ornamented with 
Corinthian columns, cornices, ovals, socles and mouldings ; 
the whole is surmounted by a gilt ball, and an iron cross 
twelve feet high. The towers were thrown down by the 
earthquake of 1746, and rebuilt in 1800. During 1832 the 
pyramids and cupolas on their summits were painted, and the 
balls gilded. In the belfries there are three large, fine toned 
bells, besides several smaller ones. The largest, called La 
Cantabria, weighs 310 quintals; the second. La Purisima, 
155 quintals; and the third. La Antigua, 55 quintals ! 

On the north side of the Cathedral, corresponding to it in 
architecture, is a small church, surmounted with a low cupola 
and cross, termed the Sagrario. Adjoining to it is the Arch- 
bishop's palace. It is two stories high, and the front wall is 
crowned with a balustrade and urns. Like the dwellings of 
Lima, it is disfigured by a close jutting balcony. 

Beneath the terrace of the Cathedral are several small shoe- 
makers' shops, called Los cajones de los cabachuelos. 

The palace occupies the whole north side of the plaza. It 
presents an irregular, mean, half broken down row, of two 
stories high. The lower one is occupied by shops, in which 
are sold hardware, twine, sulphur, wax and books, and almost 
every one has the same assortment. From no very distant 
resemblance to huge boxes, this row has acquired the name of 
Los cajones de la ribera. Coarse unbleached awnings are 
propped out over them to protect their goods from the sun. 
The second story is a kind of open gallery, called La Galerfa 
de Palacio. A side entrance leads from the plaza into one of 
the great patios, through which, it is supposed, Almagro's par- 
ty entered when Pizarro was slain. 

In the centre of the square, on a level table of masonry, 
forty feet on each side, and raised three feet, having drains 
around it for carrying off the superabundant water, is placed 
the great reservoir of the beautiful fountain of Lima. It is 
twenty-four feet in diameter, and about three feet deep. It is 



NOTICES OF PERU. 215 

crowned by eight lions, with a griffin at the feet of each, and 
is ornamented exteriorly with mouldings and flowers in semi- 
relief, and interiorly the sides and bottom are glazed. In the 
centre of this reservoir is a pedestal eighteen feet high, com- 
posed of three parts, which supports a second basin, eight feet 
in diameter. Around it are eight grotesque masks, from the 
mouths of which the water is jetted into the reservoir below. 
A column, two feet in diameter and five feet high, adorned 
with foliage in relief, rises out of the second basin, and sustains 
a third, sixteen feet in circumference, and" surrounded by 
seraphs, who jet forth the water collected in it. Again arises 
another column from its centre, supporting a ball, upon which 
is poised a statue of Fame, five feet high. In her right hand 
she once held the armorial bearings of the monarch of Spain, 
and in her left, a trumpet with which she published his name 
and magnificence to the world ! But they are gone. 

The whole height of the fountain is forty feet. At the 
corners of the table of mason work are small fountains, orna- 
mented like the centre one. The whole is of bell-metal, and 
all its ornaments conform to the composite order of civic 
architecture. 

From one of the inscriptions on the four sides of the pedes- 
tal, we learn that this fountain was erected in 1650. The 
water is derived from a common reservoir near the college of 
Santo Tomas, on the eastern side of the city. The reservoir 
is supplied from the Rimac; the difference of elevation be- 
tween it and the plaza is thirty-three feet. 

There are several other fountains in different parts of the 
city, which present a brick wall or block of masonry, with 
water constantly pouring from leaden pipes into a basiu and 
drain. 

The plaza of Lima, every hour of the day from dawn till 
midnight, presents scenes of interest to the idle stranger, where 
he may observe manners, customs, and costumes, so totally 
different from all he has before met with, that if his curiosity 
be not awakened, he must have been disinherited by mother 
Eve. 

Entering the Portdl de Botin6ros, about ten o'clock in the 



216 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

morning, and passing to that of the Escribanos, many inter- 
esting groups and figures present themselves, and what is re- 
markable, from one end of the year to the other the picture is 
always the same. All Sundays and feast days are alike; and 
all working days strikingly resemble each other ; except when 
there is some popular exhibition or religious procession going 
forward, and then it is more crowded. 

The first figure that called attention was that of a stout negro, 
in full bottomed, dark green breeches, open at the knee, show- 
ing that his linen drawers were embroidered and pointed like 
a rufile. Before him stood a table, on which was spread a piece 
of bayeta — a species of baize — the long furze of which he was 
combing with a card, such as is used with us for carding wool 
and cotton. 

The shopkeepers were seen, when not occupied by cus- 
tomers, seated on the counters, neatly dressed, swinging their 
legs and smoking cigars ; or sometimes a half dozen were list- 
ening to the news from an infant gazette, read in a monotonous 
tone. When a lady entered to purchase, she uncovered her 
face, though not always, and the shopman generally served her 
with a cold indifierence that argued a great love for dolce far 
nUnte. This feeling, I am told, has been known to gain such 
influence at times, that a shopman, rather than move, has de- 
nied having goods which were seen upon his shelves ! Strangers 
generally pay doubly for all they buy in Lima. I have known 
thirty dollars received for an article, of which the price asked 
was a hundred. About ten o'clock, the shopmen are seen be- 
hind their counters, taking breakfast, which usually consists of 
some stew, bread, a basin of broth, followed by a cup of cho- 
colate and a glass of water. 

The tables along the colonnades present a number of handy- 
craftsmen of every variety of caste, making silk cords, tassels, 
gold and silver epaulettes, sword knots, buttons, &c. 

Presently we met a can&nigo. Like all of his class, he wore 
a long black cloak, black small clothes and silk stockings, with 
large shoes and buckles. At a distance his hat resembled a 
great black cylinder. Close at his heels were two or three 
boys in black suits, relieved by a blue sash worn over the 



NOTICES OF PERf. 217 

shoulder, tottering under huge cocked hats trimmed with 
feathers. They were collegians. Then came two gaily dressed 
officers, arm and arm, whiskered and moustached — booted and 
spurred. Nothing kept their vanity from flying away with 
them, but the weight of their long metal scabbarded sabres, 
which clattered after them over the pavement. The organ of 
self-esteem must be even greater than that of combativeness in 
the Peruvian army ! Next was a serrdno or Indian from the 
interior, followed by his wife. He wore a high crowned, 
broad brimmed straw hat without a band, and a long poncho of 
bayeta, falling below the knee. His legs and feet were bare, 
and judging from the spread of the toes, they had never been 
acquainted with shoes. A pair of alforjas — coarse saddle bags 
— hung carelessly over his left shoulder, and his right hand 
grasped a long staff. His black temple locks hung straight 
down his cheeks, as was the fashion hundreds of years before 
the conquest. He was of brawny stature, with a broad cop- 
per colored face, high cheek bones, and a serene countenance. 
His wife was clad in a coarse woollen petticoat, plaited full 
round the waist, and short enough to show her bare feet. A 
young child was slung over her back in a shawl of blue bayeta. 
Her hair was combed back from the forehead, and braided in 
two long tresses hanging almost to the ground. / Curiosity kept 
the Indian looking over his shoulder, and, in consequence, he 
ran into the corpulency of a staid judge, with a severe counte- 
nance and a large cocked hat. His shirt was folded, ruffled, 
and starched in a prim style, and a star of brilliants was sus- 
pended round his neck by a broad tricolored ribbon. The ren- 
contre was equally unexpected, for the judge was in a most 
sedate and pensive mood. His moody look changed into a 
scowl of contemptuous anger ; the Indian cowered under it, 
touched his hat, and passed on. The feelings of the Indian and 
the European Spaniard are still as uncongenial as oil and water, 
though, like the first of those two fluids, the Spaniard always 
maintains his superiority. 

Half way down the Portdl de Botin6ros is an alley, about 
ten feet wide, leading into the street south of the plaza. This 
is called el Callejon de Petateros, from being chiefly occupied 
2S 



218 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

by manufacturers of a kind of coarse flag mat, half an inch in 
thickness, known by the name of petdte, and usually inter- 
posed between the rough tile floors and carpets. In this same 
callej&n are constantly seen a number of Indians and negroes 
making segarreros, and washing and glazing straw hats from 
Manila and Guayaquil. The segarrero is a case for cigars, plaited 
with the fingers, of a species of grass which grows at Choco, 
near the Equator. It consists of two symmetrical halves, one 
being nicely received into the other. Some are as fine as hair, 
and of various colors, disposed in different figures ; the initials, 
and even the whole name, are occasionally worked into them. 
Their price varies, according to the quality, from a dollar to a 
doubloon. 

At the corner where the portdles join, are generally hung 
up the placards or bills advertising the play, cock-fight, and 
bull-bait. They are all done by hand instead of the printing 
press. The most interesting scene of the play to be repre- 
sented is caricatured in bright colors, much as we see large 
wood cuts of the feats to be performed at the equestrian the- 
atres in the United States. The bull-ring is shown, with some 
one of the different modes of attack to be resorted to on the 
day of exhibition. Cock-fighting is announced on a scroll, sup- 
ported from the beaks of two cocks, painted on a large piece 
of cloth, on which are some eight or ten doggrel rhymes lau- 
datory of the birds, and the amount bet on the pitched fight. 

At the same corner there is always a number of boys, with 
quantities of cheap dry goods, spread upon the ground, con- 
stantly crying the qualities and prices at the top of their voices : 
"Panuelos finos, a real y medio" — fine pocket handkerchiefs, 
at a real and a half. 

At sunset the scene changes. All the shops are shut, busi- 
ness is closed for the day, and the plaza is then devoted to plea- 
sure and promenade. Along the Portdl de Escribanos are ta- 
bles, where are sold, by candle light, ices and iced drinks of 
several kinds. Orchata — prepared from almonds — and chicha, 
a species of beer made from maize, are common. 

Ice is a monopoly granted to a company. Physicians deem 
ice so important in the treatment of diseases, that the mono- 



NOTICES OP PERU. 219 

polists are bound under a heavy penalty to keep the city sup- 
plied with it ; if they are found without it for twenty-four 
hours, their charter becomes null. Malignant persons have at 
times made a run on the company, and when the stock was 
exhausted, informed the government, in order to gain one-half 
of the fine. Therefore it is difficult to obtain a considerable 
quantity at a time, for they will never sell to any individual 
more than one or two reals' worth. 

In the centre of the plaza, here and there, are glimmering 
lights and fires. Men and women are seated around the fresco 
tables, as they are termed, partaking of the various refresh- 
ments. The saya y manto has disappeared, but the ladies still 
hide their faces, by wearing a shawl over the head. Here an 
old negress, with long bony arms, shining in grease, with 
scarce tatters enough to conceal her limbs, squats over a copper 
pan of boiling lard, in which fritters are cooking. A long stick 
serves her all the purposes of a fork for turning the cakes, and 
when she cannot see, it is first dipped into the fat, then into 
the fire, and is at once converted into a torch. There, another 
sybil of the same deep complexion and garb, sits upon the 
ground, stretching her neck silently over a pan of frittering, 
crackling fish, while a half dozen negroes are stretched out 
about her, resting upon an elbow, eating from a gourd plate. 
The uncertain glare which dapples these groups, gives to them, 
at first sight, something of that appearance which the imagina- 
tion attaches to Hades. In another spot sits a bare headed ne- 
gro, in big breeches, making barquillos. He has three or four 
irons, like those for waffles, arranged in a bed of hot coals, 
and a copper pan of batter, by his side. He pours a spoonful 
on one of the irons, from which he has just removed a barqui- 
llo, and places it in the fire. < Then taking the iron furthest to 
his left, he opens it, and scrapes round the edges with a knife ; 
he turns the wafer-like cake upon his palm, and rolls it round 
a stick, which is removed by a slight jerk of the hand, and 
falls to the ground, leaving the barquillo like a sheet of lightly 
rolled paper. Both hands are now wiped on the full part of his 
dirty breeches, and the iron is again set in motion. These 
cakes are made very rapidly. They are eaten with ices and 



220 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

chocolate, by those who care not for the mode in which they 
are made. Still another kind of refreshment is found in the 
picdnte, which consists of various kinds of butcher's meat, 
made into a stew, spiced and peppered as hotly as possible. 
After partaking of it, the throat is flooded with iced chicha, to 
quench the flame which the morsel excites. 

From sunset till eleven and twelve o'clock at night, in the 
summer season particularly, men and women are strolling from 
table to table. The women, with their faces hidden under the 
shawl, perform the part of maskers in the scene. Many curi- 
ous adventures and anecdotes are related of the feigned liaisons 
d'amours which the Limanians have sustained, in order to 
be invited to partake of refreshments at the expense of some 
uninitiated wight. Women have been known to pretend to the 
acquaintance of a gentleman accidentally met in the plaza, (and 
masked as they are, it is impossible to recognise them,) till 
they have succeeded in taking ices at his expense, then throw- 
ing off the disguise, express their astonishment that he was " tan 
inocente" — so simple, as not to have detected them. The his- 
tory of the intrigues and deceptions practised in this plaza, 
would form a volume of much interest to a curious reader. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Saya y Manto — Scenes in the street — Police — Market — Cherimoya — Palta- 
Granadilla — Caf6s. 



The walking dress of the ladies of Lima, presents a very cu- 
rious and unique appearance to the stranger who beholds it 
for the first time. Yet after a little use, it is rather pleasing 
than disgusting to the eye, when prettily worn. For several 
days after my arrival, my chief amusement in the morning, be- 
fore breakfast, was to stand in the puertacalle and observe the 
ladies in saya y manto, as they passed to and from mass. This 



NOTICES OF PERU. 221 

dress consists of two parts. The saya, the lower part, is a silk- 
en petticoat, made in folds or plaits, extending from bottom to 
top, and of nearly the same breadth above and below. It sits 
closely to the figure, and being elastic, from the manner in 
which it is sewed, manifests the contour of the figure, and the 
whole muscular play of the body and limbs. The manto is a 
hood of crimped silk, cut bias or diagonally, to give it elas- 
ticity. The bottom part of it is gathered full by a drawing 
string, and, encircling more than half of the body, sits low 
enough down to hide the top of the saya. This hood, drawn 
up from behind, over the shoulders and head, and covering the 
elbows and arms, is folded ov^er the face in such a manner as 
to conceal all but one eye. One hand is occupied in holding 
the fold in its place in front, while the other is carried across 
the breast, bearing sometimes a reticule or pocket handker- 
chief, and at others, a rosary or cross. When worn open, leav- 
ing the face uncovered, as is often the case, the position of the 
hands is nearly the same. The fore-finger rests upon the cheek, 
and the elbow appears supported by the hand of the other side, 
giving an air of pensiveness to the whole figure. Being drawn 
tightly under the elbows, the manto is kept tense over the 
head. With this dress the comb is not always worn. The saya 
is always short enough to display the foot and ankle, which are 
set oflf in white silk stockings, and satin slippers, of every co- 
lor. Silk shawls, of every dye, beautifully embroidered and 
fringed, fall from the bust in front 5 while behind they are con- 
cealed in the manto, forming a bunch on the back, rather in- 
jurious to the appearance. The say as are of every color, but 
the mantos are invariably black. ' 

This costume, though of ancient origin, was not worn in the 
beginning of the eighteenth century. Then, a dress called the 
Faldellin was in fashion, and was occasionally seen till about 
the year 1800. It was a short petticoat, made very full, and 
trimmed with a profusion of lace. 

San Martin was so much opposed to the saya y manto, that 
he issued a " bando" prohibiting ladies from appearing in the 
streets in that dress, but to no purpose. It offers too many ad- 
vantages to the intrigantey and too many conveniences for the 



222 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

slattern, to be soon thrown aside. Slipping into a saya y man- 
to at dawn, a lady is dressed to comply with the requisitions 
of the church, without losing time at her toilet. It was, there- 
fore, a cruel whim in San Martin, to wish them to resign it! 

This is strictly the walking dress, and is always worn when 
<< shopping," or as they more emphatically express it, " cheap- 
ening." It is not considered a full dress, nor is it ever worn 
at night — in fact, ladies never promenade at night. 

It requires very little tact to distinguish a foreign lady, in 
saya y manto, from a Limanian. The walk of the foreigner is 
constrained and clumsy, while that of the true Limena is all 
grace and ease ; she treads with the true* grdcia, which it is 
difficult to describe. *' Grdcia" expresses all that is agreeable 
in the air and presence — all that polish and ease of manner, 
which distinguish accomplished persons. 

The making of sayas is a business followed by men ; being 
first lined with calico, white or colored, it is plaited over a 
straight board, and stitched. The time expended in their con- 
struction renders them expensive. A hundred dollars is not 
an unusual price for a fine saya ; one lasts, however, a year, 
which must be some consolation to fathers who, with moderate 
fortunes, rejoice in many unmarried daughters. 

Standing at a door in a fashionable street, is an easy way of 
observing the costume and characteristics of a large city. At 
Lima, I found in the course of a day, that all to be seen in this 
respect passed our hotel. 

In the morning, glided by in one direction or another, sayas 
y mantos of every color and age, from the new, lustrous satin 
of the wealthy young maiden, through the grades of lack-lustre 
of the middle aged, the frayed of the old, and the ragged and 
broken of my lady's maid. The colors and ages of the wear- 
ers were as various as the sayas themselves. In compliance 
with promises of penance, some wore a girdle of leather, about 
two inches wide, with a long end hanging almost to the feet. 
If "las Su61as de San Augustin," as this girdle is termed for 
some unknown reason, be the measure of sins, the old women 
have more to answer for than the young ones. 

Again ; there are a few females devoted to religion and the 



NOTICES OF PERU. 233 

exercise of charity, who are termed "beatas." They wear 
dresses of white worsted, with capes and hoods of the same. 

Later in the day, pass priests and friars of several orders. 
The Mercedarian appears in a loose robe of white worsted, 
with a black cape and hood lined with white. His head is bare, 
showing the tonsure and mathematical cut of his straightly 
combed hair, or it is covered with a clerical bonnet of white. 
The followers of San Augustin and St. Francis wear an entire- 
ly blue dress. The Dominican is distinguished from the Mer- 
cedarian by the black cape being cut in a long point before and 
behind. Both carry long rosaries and crosses suspended about 
the neck. The Descalzos, or barefooted, of the order of St. 
Francis, wear a sackcloth robe, with pointed capes, girt round 
the body with a leather belt, a broad brimmed hat, and san- 
dals. They carry a tin box for receiving alms, and a long staff. 
The brotherhood or order of Buenamuerte are robed in black, 
with a cross of red cloth stitched upon the breast. 

The military, in gay uniforms, are seen walking and riding 
at all times. The collegians strut in black suits and cocked 
hats, and judges are decorated with ribbons and medals. 

Then come pedlars, crying their goods and low pi'ices, and 
staggering under a load of calicoes, strung over a stick, which 
is supported at the side by a strap over the shoulder. The ven- 
der of lottery tickets is seen sauntering along, with a book filled 
with sheets of tickets in one hand, and an ink-horn in the other, 
bawling out, 5W — tr — te, and pausing at each syllable, and be- 
fore every gentleman he may find standing, to importune him 
to purchase a ticket. If disappointed, he turns, away, and for 
consolation, shouts su — h — te as loud as ever. 

From one to two o'clock, the streets are alive with venders 
of the various messes eaten by families of the middling class, 
who seldom cook in their houses, but purchase their food at 
the door, ready for mastication. Negro wenches, with trays 
on the head, crying *<tamd.l," which is a mixture of boiled 
corn and beans, with a small piece of pork, put up in a plan- 
tain leaf, perambulate every street. Others carry various stews, 
in tin cases, piled one above the other, which they sell by their 
appropriate names. 



224 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Representations of the most striking scenes of the play for 
the night, painted on canvass, are carried through the streets, 
accompanied by the music of drum, haut-boy, and marimba,* 
arid followed by a crowd of raggamuffin boys. In the same 
way, on the morning and day preceding the bull-bait, the 
figures of various fireworks to be exploded at the exhibition, 
are carried round. 

Walking through the streets, there is nothing met with, per- 
haps, more unique or characteristic, than the droves of jack- 
asses and mules, encountered at almost every step. The donkey 
frequently manifests the most stupid indifference in his habits, 
seldom heeding any person or thing that may come in his way. 
Some little vigilance is therefore necessary, to avoid being 
walked over by them, or unpleasantly squeezed between their 
loads and the wall. 

Here, the street is almost choked by asses laden with green 
grass ; there, by others, laden with stones, sometimes so small, 
that we ask whether the animal can bear no more ; again, a drove 
with capachos (small sacks of hide) filled with sand or earth. 
Then comes the solitary borrico of the aguad&r, wending his 
way in the same unvarying gait, though urged by spur and 
weighty blows, habitually bestowed, it would seem for pastime, 
as anidle man drums upon a table for amusement. The agua- 
d&res are all negroes, and wear a garb like those in Valparaiso. 

The cruel treatment of the borricos in Lima, is as proverbial 
as the tyrannical sway exercised by the ladies there ; hence 
the saying, ''Lima is the heaven of women, the purgatory of 
men, and the hell of jackasses." In order to facilitate the re- 
spiration of these poor animals, the nostrils are slit up about 
six inches ; and those carrying grass are muzzled with a piece 
of dry hide, having holes cut in it. 

Mules share no better fate. They are reserved for the 
heaviest labors. All the merchandise consumed in the interior, 
is conveyed thither on the mule's back. The proverbial stub- 
bornness of the mule is rarely manifested here ; a liberal be- 
stowal of dry blows, made efficacious by abusive epithets, has 

* The same instrument is used by the negroes in BraziL 



NOTICES OP PERU. 235 

produced so much fear in the beast, that, all restive qualities 
being radically removed, he has become quite an amiable crea- 
ture. Droves of them move through the streets in long files, 
sometimes laden with bars of silver from the mines of Pasco, 
having their heads tied to the tails of those that precede them. 
In the morning, the baker's mule, with two great panniers of 
dry hide, filled with rolls, and the baker mounted high on top, 
is seen going from door to door. 

At the corners of some streets, a little remote from the plaza, 
are occasionally met with, great heaps of cigar stumps, spread 
out for sale on white cloths — a cigar is not the worse in Lima 
for being partly smoked by a friend. 

The decay of Lima is but too evident ; we see some of the 
largest houses, or rather their ruins, occupied by pulperias, and 
before the doors, " ollas" of various stews, frittering over pans 
of coals. These tippling shops, in the afternoon and at night, 
become scenes of fandangos, dissipation, and brawls of every 
kind. Though the streets are perambulated by watchmen 
who cry the half hour after eight o'clock, they are of but little 
use. Besides, there is a military police or guard, distributed 
in various parts of the city, and when passing any of the posts 
after nine o'clock at night, the sentinel hails you with ^'Quien 
vive ?" — for whom ? you answer <' la patria!'' — the country; 
again he inquires, " Que gente ?" — what sort of people ? you 
answer, '* gente de paz!" — people of peace, and you are per- 
mitted to pass on. 

After ten o'clock at night the streets are very dark, unless 
when the moon shines. About that hour the candles in the 
great lanterns, hung over each door-way by requisition of the 
law, burn out, and are not replaced ; as this is the only means of 
lighting the streets, they become gloomy after that hour, and 
hence it is customary for persons walking late at night, to be 
preceded by a servant with a lantern. Even this precaution 
is not always sufficient to save the passenger from the uncon- 
genial showers which are occasionally hurled from the balco- 
nies, though one should cry, gardez Peau! 

The market is near the convent of San Francisco. Along 
the street, spread upon the ground, there is a display of all 
29 



226 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

kinds of vegetables and fruits — Lima is never without fruit 
of one sort or another — shaded by mats propped up by reeds, 
which is the only accommodation pre])ared. Here you meet 
more frequently than in any other part of the city, begging 
friars, carrying an image of the virgin, whose kisses they sell 
at a real each; and sometimes an orange or potato will buy 
one. On the back of the silver case which holds the picture, 
is inscribed the advertisement of some one indulgence to be 
obtained by kissing it and bestowing alms. 

The country around Lima is beautifully fertile, and by irri- 
gation yields every variety of fruit and vegetable. The broad 
valley of Lurigancho, which is in sight from the walls, sup- 
plies the market with the greatest abundance. 

Amongst the vegetables are several varieties of peas and 
beans; quinoa, a small seed resembling millet; lentils, toma- 
toes, carrots, cucumbers, yuca (a long fusiform root), cabbages, 
cauliflowers, egg plants, lettuce, celery (which grows wild in 
many parts of the country), peppers, camotes or sweet pota- 
toes, and two kinds of potatoes ; one known by the term 
Irish, and another of a similar kind, but yellow as an orange, 
and far superior to the first. It grows only on the mountains; 
many trials have been made to transplant it to the valleys and 
to Chile, but it was found to degenerate in a very short time. 
The potato grows wild in many parts both of Peru and Chile; 
numerous roots have been taken from the top of the island of 
San Lorenzo. 

The principal fruits are cherimoyas, limas or sweet lemons, 
sour lemons, limes, pine apples, oranges, two kinds of grapes, 
pomegranates, granadillas, plantains, bananas, a variety of 
melons, strawberries, which grow very large, lucumas, tunos, 
figs (two crops), paltas, besides apples, peaches, pears, &c. 

The cherimoya {annona squamosa) is esteemed among the 
best of fruits. It grows from two to six inches in diameter, 
and is of a conoidal shape, with a depression in the centre of 
its base where the stem is attached. Externally it is dark 
green, and has a loricate or scale-like surface; internally it is 
a cream white. It contains a centre core, with a number of 
black seeds about five lines long ranged around it. The pulp. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 227 

the taste of which has been generally compared to that of 
strawberries and cream, though not very correctly, is eaten 
with a spoon. Its exquisitely luscious flavor is enhanced by 
adding the juice of a sweet orange ; commend me to cheri- 
moya and orange juice to enrapture my palate! 

The tree, which is very delicate, and will not bear frost, is 
from sixteen to seventeen years in coming to maturity from 
the seed. In Bolivia it attains a very large size; but its fruit 
cannot excel that brought to Payta from the valley of Piura. 
Ehret writes it, "Cherimolia," and from the frequency of 
changing the «/ for the //, I am inclined to think that it was 
originally ^' Cherimolla." The botanic appellation given by 
the above named gentleman is, Guanabanus Perseas. 

The palta resembles the pear in shape. In its centre there 
is a large stone, the juice of which being indelible, is used as 
a dye and for marking linen. This stone or kernel, whose 
consistence is about the same as that of the chestnut, is sur- 
rounded by a greenish white pulp, usually eaten on bread, 
with pepper and salt, as a substitute for butter, which in Lima 
is rare, and seldom good. It is preferred by some, dressed 
with sugar and lemon juice ; in either way it is excellent, 
though not generally liked when first tasted. It is esteemed 
a wholesome fruit, and Frezier states, I know not on what 
authority, that it is provocative of love! In the Carribee 
islands it is called avocat; at Panama, and on the island of 
Taboga, where it grows in great perfection, ^^Aguacate." 
The tree, which somewhat resembles the pear tree, is from 
six to eight years in coming to maturity from the seed. 

The granadilla is the fruit of the passion flower, {passiflora 
cceruha,) which is indigenous to America, and named hj 
pious Spaniards from the fancied resemblance which its parts 
bear to the instruments used at the crucifixion. In Chile the 
plant does not yield fruit. The granadilla is oval in shape, or 
rather egg-like, and has a smooth yellowish surface, resem- 
bling that of the mock-orange. When broken, it is found to 
be a hard, slightly brittle shell, lined with a soft velvety 
membrane, which contains a pulp of rather more consistence 
than the white of an egg, filled with flattened, dark colored 



328 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

seeds. Without much outraging the propriety generally ob- 
served in naming things from resemblance, I have thought 
that it might be called the egg fruit. The pulp has a pleasant, 
sub-acid taste, and is esteemed wholesome. 

In other particulars, what has been observed of the Callao 
market is applicable to this. 

It is not unusual to see hung up on the shambles parts of a 
chicken or turkey, as legs, wings, necks, &c., so as to accom- 
modate those who are desirous of eating poultry, but who 
cannot well afford to pay for an entire fowl. 

The first cafe opened in Lima was in 1771. It is remark- 
able that in Lima there is not a single hotel kept by a native 
for the accommodation of strangers. When they come to the 
metropolis from any part of the country, they either lodge 
with their friends if they have any, or hire 'furnished rooms 
and eat at some of the cafes, or purchase their meals in the 
streets after the manner of many private families. Except at 
the French and English hotels, there is no such thing as an 
ordinary or table d'hote in Lima; at the caf^s, two of which 
are very extensive, a bill of fare is kept, and whatever the 
visiter calls for is served on small marble tables. In fact, the 
cafes in Lima are under similar management to those in the 
great cities in Spain ; a regulation issued there at one period, 
is much called for in this city. An order, put forth at Madrid 
for the better government of the cafes, directed that the 
apartments should be kept clean; that every person should be 
served on a clean plate, because by the spilling of coffee and 
other drinks on the clothes they were spoiled; and that the 
servants should appear clean, and without hat or cap, and if 
possible with their heads combed. The enforcing of the lat- 
ter clause, I fear would be attended with difficulty, at least 
with the class of persons referred to, for many men of respect- 
able standing in life are singularly neglectful of that part of 
the person both internally and externally.* 

• Mercuric Peruano, vol. i. p. 111. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 229 



CHAPTER VII. 



Convent of St. Augustin — Monastery of La Incarnacion — Convent of Santo 
Domingo — Negros Bozales — Convent of San Francisco — Our Lady of Mer- 
cies — San Pedro — Library — Churches — Bells — Inquisition — Museum — Uni- 
versity of St. Mark — Hall of Deputies — Charities — Hospitals. 

The convent of San Augustin is amongst the oldest in Lima. 
It occupied a whole square, but in 1825, the minister, Montea- 
gudo, caused a part of it to be torn down, to widen the street, 
and form a small plaza before the theatre.* The church is situ- 
ated on one corner of the vast pile. Its front is a field of carv- 
ing and statues of saints. Over the great door is San Augustin, 
trampling three or four of his prostrate enemies under his feet. 
On his head is a mitre, and in his hand a book with a miniature 
temple upon it, indicating the foundation of the Christian 
church. 

The interior is similar in its general arrangements to the ca- 
thedral. It has its several chapels, sacristy, &c., and glories 
in a goodly number of holy reliques. 

The convent is divided into several large courts, surrounded 
by corridors, supported on arches and columns, which com- 
municate with each other both above and below. The court 
adjoining the church is termed the cloister. The principal 
events of the life of St. Augustin are represented in a series of 
paintings, which are hung round the walls, and, to protect 
them from the weather, closed by light shutters, except on 
certain feast days, amongst which is the anniversary of the 
saint. Of this vast pile only a few apartments are now tenant- 
ed. Its refectory is no longer redolent of the odors of the 
kitchen ; its fountains are choked, and its gardens have ceased 
to regale the senses with their productions. Of the hundred 
friars who lived within its walls twenty years ago, scarcely 
one-third remains. The patriots, in breaking from the yoke 

* This act, it is aaid, led to the assassination of that minister soon afterwards. 



230 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and thrall of Spain, defaced the great bulwarks of her strength ; 
they left most of the convents of Peru in a state of ruin. 

The history of the foundation of the order of St. Augustin 
is given in detail by the Fray Antonio de la Calancha, in a 
folio volume of a thousand pages, entitled, "■ Choronica del 
Orden de San Augustin," in which he dwells upon the diffi- 
culties encountered by the founder. 

About the year 1547 or 48, as is stated in several convent 
registers, the Reverend Fray Francisco de Vitoria, a man of 
apostolic virtues and talents, came to settle in Peru, as the first 
commissary general of tiie province, (in the church acceptation 
of the term), in company with a number of friars and minis- 
ters of the Franciscan order. In the same ship with them was 
the Reverend Padre Fray Augustin de la Santisima Trinidad, 
who, by the order of Charles V., preceded as a pioneer the 
legion that was to found the order of St. Augustin in Peru. 

Amongst those whom the Fray P'rancisco brought under his 
protection, was his niece, the virtuous and noble Lady Dona 
Juana de Cfepeda. This lady was young and beautiful, and 
much given to converse about the holy spirit with our Fray 
Augustin, for whom she entertained a filial regard. It was 
not because she could not have found his equal, or even supe- 
rior, if she had sought for such a one in the pious train of her 
uncle; but having fallen ill when very young, she had dedi- 
cated herself to our Lady of Grace, who is worshipped by all 
of the Augustin religion, and promised to celebrate her annual 
feast, if permitted to recover; and it was this circumstance 
which inclined her towards the Fray Augustin. 

They all arrived safely in Lima, at a period when the coun- 
try was still distracted by the civil wars which broke out be- 
fore the death of Pizarro. Then, it appeared that the care of 
every one was either to avoid death or inflict it; individuals, 
seeing the strife of civil war, only thought of providing for 
their own security and convenience. The Fray Augustin fixed 
his abode in a small house near the city shambles, which were 
then where now stands the convent of " La Limpisima Con- 
cepcion." There he lived poorly indeed, for in those warlike 
times, the rich thought not of bestowing alms or of succoring 



NOTICES OF PERU. 231 

the religious. A few months passed away, and Dona Juana 
de C^peda was espoused by a gallant cavalier, Don Ernan 
Gonzalez de la Torre. He had served in many battles against 
the Indians with Pizarro ; he raised the siege of Lima, and 
contributed greatly to the general pacifieation of Peru ; when 
the Marquis was assassinated, he had gone to meet the judge, 
Vaca de Castro. This cavalier was both valiant and wealthy, 
yet with Dona Juana he received a rich dower, in her treasure 
of nobleness and virtue. The nuptials of such a pair were pub- 
lished far and wide, for they were powerful and rich I 

So soon as the news reached our Fray Augustin in his hum- 
ble dwelling, he went to congratulate Dona Juana upon her 
good fortune, and to manifest his joy on seeing virtue rewarded 
in the opulence of her house. They conversed about the spi- 
rit; and when he found her properly disposed, he lamented 
his poverty, the inconvenience of his dwelling, and above all, 
complained that, having neglected to bring with him a part of 
the cedula of the emperor, he could obtain neither aid, nor 
even a site whereon to found a chapel. Having impressed 
upon Dona Juana that God had given her great prosperity and 
wealth, he told her that it was now her duty to repay heaven 
in part for the blessings she had received, by assisting him in 
his deplorable situation. 

The pious lady spoke to him consoling words, but, as every 
prudent wife should do in such a case, withheld an answer to 
the prayer, till after she had consulted with her husband. The 
Fray Augustin, confiding more in God, in whose cause he was 
embarked, than in the promises of the world, as a less devout 
man might have done, returned to his cell, to await the result 
of this visit. 

The next day, Dona Juana de la Cepeda sent for the lonely 
Father, and when he arrived, told him, in great joy, that 
through the blessing of God, his desires should be fulfilled. 
Her husband had given her power to afiford unlimited aid, andj 
to contribute the more to his convenience, desired him to build 
the chapel near his own house, in which he most generously 
offered all that heart could ask. And in order to accomplish 
her vow^ and to comply with her obligation, she further wished 



232 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

a chapel to be built and dedicated to our Lady of Grace. Here 
the worthy Calancha breaks forth in a pious ejaculation ; <' Oh! 
providence of God ! to inflict disease upon this virtuous lady, 
while yet young, that she might, when growing old, succor 
the poor — and when a poor maiden, to incline her to devotion, 
that she might protect the religious when rich !" She gave 
him a home, a situation, silver, gold, and a maintenance; she 
raised up the first Augustin altar in Peru, and placed thereon 
the image of the blessed Virgin, our Lady of Grace. It is now 
in a chapel of the convent, and was then in the house of that 
noble cavalier, Don Ernan Gonzalez de la Torre, one square 
from the parish of San Marcelo. There the Fray Augustin 
lived two years, under the protection of his benefactors, await- 
ing the arrival of the eleven Augustin Friars, required to com- 
plete the legion and foundation of their order. 

The royal edict for the founding of the convent, bears date 
Valladolid, March 23, 1550, and provides that the Indians 
shall assist in its erection, which is to be at the expense of the 
emperor. The twelve evangelic fathers left Salamanca in the 
same month, and, embarking at Cadiz, crossed the Isthmus, 
and after a passage of seven months, reached Lima. The con- 
vent was begun almost immediately afterwards, and from that 
period rejoices in the number of pious laborers in the great 
work of converting the Indians. 

La Incarnacion, a convent of nuns of the order of San Au- 
gustin, was founded in 1554. In 1631, it contained two hun- 
dred and thirty-three nuns of the black, and thirty-seven of 
the white veil, together with eighteen novices, who, with se- 
culars, servants, and slaves, increased the number of females 
in the convent to eight hundred ; at present, scarcely one-six- 
teenth can be found. When they removed from their first 
dwelling, to the present convent, the streets were hung with 
silks, and the way strewed with mint and flowers, and the vice- 
roy, the bishop, and the prelates of the church, accompanied 
them. 

The nuns of La Incarnacion profess three vows ; poverty, 
obedience, and chastity ; though the cloister is not enjoined, 
they observe it religiously. Their several officers are elected 



NOTICES OP PERU. 233 

from amongst themselves, every three years. The time not 
devoted to vigils and other religious ceremonies, is employed 
in making sweetmeats, pastillas, artificial flowers, &c., which 
are sold at the convent door. Notwithstanding that poverty 
is professed in many nunneries, several of them are wealthy, 
and require each novice to bring with her a dower of from one 
to four thousand dollars, which, on the death of the nun, be- 
comes the property of the convent. 

As is generally the case with all institutions of the kind, 
there is a romantic tale connected with the foundation of this 
nunnery^ which is related by the Fray Calancha. 

When the Captain General of Peru, Pablo de Meneses, ar- 
rived at Pucara with the royal camp, Francisco Ernandez Gi- 
ron attempted to surprise it by night, with eight hundred chosen 
men, armed with arquebuses and lances. This was on Sun- 
day, October 7th 1554. He was betrayed by Francisco Men- 
dez, and Domingo Ollave Vizcaino, who went over to the royal 
army. A battle took place. Both fought most valiantly, but 
the arms of the king were triumphant. 

The following night, Giron determined to fly ; not through 
fear of the royal army, but because his camp was mutinous, 
and he was apprehensive of being assassinated. He therefore 
sent Gonzalo Vasquez, with a religious friar, to urge his lady, 
Dona Mencia de Sosa, to remain behind, that he might have 
no impediment in flight. She manifested much afiliction at the 
communication of his desire, and replied: *' Ever since Fran- 
cisco Ernandez Giron took me from the house of my fathers, 
I have borne him company, and I do not wish to part from 
him now ; but would follow him, and be his partner in toil, as 
I have been in his honors and prosperity. Though my hus- 
band do not concede this through love, he must through ne- 
cessity, for I will follow him on foot, with a staff in my hand, 
and never shrink back from difficulties nor distress !" — " Rare 
example of female fortitude, and of a perfect w'fe !" piously 
exclaims the good Fray Calancha. 

When Giron heard this, he said ; " Lady, God never ordained 
that I should leave thee against thy will ; therefore, prepare 
thyself at once, and follow me. " Doiia Mencia hastened her 
30 



234 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

servants in their preparations for immediate departure. The 
friends of Giron murmured, and remonstrated against his hav- 
ing the hindrance of a wife in his flight. At last, upon their 
solicitation, he consented to leave her. He bade her an affec- 
tionate adieu, and she swooned away ! On her recovery, she 
inquired for her husband, and ascending a height, looked after 
him in every direction. He had gone. She dissembled her 
grief, and, thinking more of his defence than of her own safety, 
prevailed upon several of the captains to follow her husband. 
She was left alone, poor, without even a change of dress, or a 
servant, for all had been sent off when she determined to fol- 
low her lord. 

Captain Ruibarba carried Dona Mencia to Cuzco, where she 
was protected by her relation, the Oidor, Saravia. Thence, 
with every attention to which her high rank entitled her, she 
was conducted to her father's house in Lima. Giron was taken. 
She heard the executioner proclaim before her father's door ; 
*' By his Majesty, and the magnificent Cavalier Don Pedro 
Puertocarrero, Maestre de Campo, this doom is ordered to be 
executed upon this man, as a traitor to the royal crown, and 
as a disturber of the public peace. — His head to be stricken off, 
and fixed on the scaffold of the city ; his houses to be razed, 
and the ground sowed with salt, and a marble monument to be 
erected thereon, to commemorate his crimes." 

Upon hearing this proclamation, she turned to a crucifix and 
said ; *' Thy will be done ; receive the pang which pierces my 
soul ; place it with those which afflicted thy holy body, and 
grant that my husband died in thy grace, and that I may re- 
main, henceforward, under thy protection ; I desire no other 
husband ; my whole life shall be dedicated to thy love !" She 
bore with Christian fortitude the spectacle of the body of the 
husband she so tenderly loved, dragged through the streets at 
the tail of a horse ! 

After this, Doiia Mencia, and her mother, Dona Leonor 
Puertocarrero, dedicated themselves to penance, and the dis- 
charge of charitable acts and religious services. With the aid 
of the Augustin friars, they soon became the founders of the 
convent of La Incarnacion. — << Wonderful," says Calancha, 



NOTICES OF PERU. 235 

" are the ways of Providence, who disposes of remote means for 
the accomplishment of convenient ends !" 

The convent of Santo Domingo occupies an entire square. It 
is divided into four great courts or quadrangles, surrounded 
by corridors, supported on arches of brick. Various rooms and 
oIBces open on these corridors. Their walls are hung with 
paintings, illustrative of sacred history, but none of them can 
be considered as a very meritorious production. It has a small 
garden and a fountain. One of its sides overlooks the Rimac, 
and has a fine view of the bridge, the river, and the country 
around. 

Under one of the flights of broad stairs, leading from a court 
to a corridor, is a small chapel, dedicated to San Martin. Over 
its altar is suspended a burning lamp, which is constantly fed. 
On the door there is a notice, that an illustrious bishop con- 
cedes eighty days of indulgence, to any person who will de- 
voutly pray one salve before the image. This chapel is illu- 
minated every Friday. 

The church is on the corner of the building, and attached to 
it is the highest steeple in Lima, furnished with several very 
large, fine toned bells. The church is nearly three hundred 
feet long, by eighty broad. The ceiling is arched, and covered 
with many curious mouldings and ornaments. The square co- 
lumns and pilasters which sustain its lofty arches, are hung 
with crimson velvet with deep borders of gold. At one end 
is the great altar, and at the other a gallery for the choir. To 
the right and left of the <' altar mayor" are two smaller ones; 
the first dedicated to Santa Rosa de Lima, and the other to 
Our Lady of the Rosary. On the altar of Santa Rosa is a re- 
presentation of that saint sleeping in a bed, attended by an 
angel. I took it to be a plaster cast, but a lay brother of the 
convent assured me that it was marble. Above it is a cu- 
riously carved box, containing the saint's skull. Next to her, 
on the lateral wall, is the altar of Santo Domingo, the patron 
of this convent; every Tuesday morning, at seven o'clock, the 
reliques of that saint, kept in the intervals locked in a casket, 
are publicly exhibited. 

" Sweet sight for vulgar eyes !" » 



236 THREE YEARS IN THE PACiriC. 

Opposite to the shrine of Santa Rosa is a chapel of " Nuestra 
Senora del Rosario de los Natales." Between them are several 
shrines and altars, many of which are beautifully ornamented 
with miniature figures, representing portions of biblical his- 
tory. The opposite side of the church is taken up with altars 
of saints and paintings. 

When I first visited this church, the great altar was illumi- 
nated, and mass was chanting for the rest of the souls of some 
departed brothers of the convent. From it I passed to the 
cloister, around which the history and genealogy of Santo Do- 
mingo is presented in a series of paintings. The entire wall, 
below its corridor, is covered with pictures and Dutch tiles. 
Several rooms occupy its difierent sides, the largest of which 
was the refectory, but now a dusty, unfurnished hall, ani- 
mated by thousands of fleas, that skip joyfully over every vi- 
siter, from whom they seldom depart without leaving marks 
of their fondness. 

I found a knot of friars and lay brothers in the cloister, chat- 
ting and smoking cigars. 1 addressed the cleanest of them, 
(cleanliness was not a remarkable trait in any of the Domi- 
nicans) who, at my request, ordered one of the lay brothers to 
conduct me through the premises. This cicerone proved to be 
almost totally ignorant of the history of the convent, except, 
indeed, touching its former wealth, present poverty, and deface- 
ment by the patriot troops quartered in it by San Martin. 

Previous to the revolution, this convent possessed three 
sugar plantations, besides other real estate. Nearly all this 
property has been taken by the government, and in lieu of it, 
each friar receives monthly fifteen dollars. In 1820, it con- 
tained one hundred and sixty friars; in 1S29, ninety -five; and 
in 1833, only fifty-three. They now depend upon alms, given 
for masses, and the small monthly salary for their maintenance. 

Until within a few years, there was a splendid procession 
from this convent the day preceding Good Friday. In it were 
carried on tables, covered with sheets of silver, the image of 
Santa Catalina, the crowning with thorns, Jesus the Nazarin, 
in a robe of purple velvet, under a canopy of the same, fringed 
with fine gold, bearing the holy cross j "Nuestra Senora de la 



NOTICES OP PERU. 237 

Soleddd," accompanied by St. John the Evangelist, under a 
canopy of blue velvet fringed with fine silver; and the holy 
relique of the Sanctum Lignum Crucis, carried in a silver 
sagrario. The whole was followed by the brotherhood of St. 
Dominique, assisted by all the nobles of the city, bearing wax 
candles of a pound each, and preceded by the provincial and 
prior. Both instrumental and vocal music accompanied this 
procession. It took place at ten o'clock at night, and passed 
through several streets to the plaza, and back to the convent* 

Connected with the convent of Santo Domingo are the seve- 
ral congregations of the "Negros Bozales," composed of the 
slaves of Lima and its vicinity. The curious annual feasts of 
this degraded people are still celebrated in the church, though 
not with as much eclat as in former years. 

In Lima are the descendants of ten different African tribes, 
viz. the Terranovos, Lucumds, Mandingas, Cambundas, Cara- 
baltes, Cangaes, Chalas, Huarochiries, Congos, and Misangas. 
All these names are not derived from the respective coun- 
tries of the different castes, but some are arbitrary, as the 
Huarochiries. 

All these castes are subject to two corporals, elected for life 
from amongst themselves. The election is held in the chapel of 
" Nuestra Senora del Rosario," founded in this convent by the 
several nations. Those who vote are chief negroes, and twenty- 
four from each nation forming a brotherhood. The election 
takes place in the presence of the chaplain ; the oldest, and 
those descended from the original founders are generally no- 
minated, and when elected, have their names recorded in a 
book kept for the purpose. The same formalities are observed 
in the election of sub-corporals or members of the brotherhoods 
of twenty-four. To be admitted, the corporal contributes ten 
dollars, and the brother twelve, one-half of which is devoted 
to the worship of Our Lady, and the other for refreshments at 
the election feast. These offices confer high consideration 
upon their functionaries in the tribe, but they do not alleviate 
in any degree the pains of slavery. To show how little their 

* Diario de Lima, for April 1791. 



238 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

rank and titles availed them, it is stated, that a gentleman see- 
ing a negro in the stocks, on a neighboring farm, asked who 
he was. The other slaves replied, "that is the King of 
Congo !" 

To defray the expenses of the feast of our Lady of the Ro- 
sary, each individual pays a half real on the first Sunday after 
Corpus, at a small table placed in front of the church ; and on 
the death of any one of the corporals or brothers, each brother- 
hood contributes six reales to defray the expense of masses 
and responses. 

In by-gone days, the several brotherhoods worshipped their 
respective saints in different convents, but now, those of this 
convent only remain. 

The principal feast is celebrated on the Sunday of the " In- 
fraoctava of Corpus." All the tribes assemble, and form a pro- 
cession, which moves from the convent of Santo Domingo. 
Each one carries its standard, under which walks the king or 
queen, with a sceptre in the right hand, and a stick in the left. 
They are accompanied by noisy and disagreeably toned instru- 
ments, amongst which the hautboy, marimba, and a rude 
drum, are most conspicuous. In fact, there is scarcely a proces- 
sion in Lima, whether civic, religious, or military, in which 
some of these instruments are not seen, and what is worse, 
heard, following in the rear. The negroes, on this occasion, 
dress and decorate themselves in a most grotesque manner ; 
some paint their faces with various colors, and others resemble 
so many fiends from another world. The women ornament 
the hair with a profusion of jasmine flowers and gilt paper. 
Some of them carry a long pole, hung with pieces of tin, rib- 
bons, and tinsel-paper, around which a half dozen circulate in 
a slow dance, as they advance, screeching in most discordant 
tones, while the pole is stricken on the ground, in time to what 
they call music, causing a rattling and clattering, not easily 
described. 

These customs were probably brought from the countries 
whence the slaves were taken, and are still preserved by their 
descendants, but not so strictly observed now, as when they 
were first engrafted upon the Roman Church in Peru. At first 



NOTICES OP PERU. 239 

it was allowed, as a sort of consolation, which every nation, 
savage and civilized, seeks in its religion, in times of adversity, 
and was afterwards maintained as lucrative to the convents and 
churches to which they resorted. 

In 1791, there were sixteen of these brotherhoods, that held 
meetings, over which a corporal presided as president ; and 
they were extremely jealous of rank on these occasions. They 
had their dances and their feasts, and when any one of them 
died, they watched over the body during the night, the rela- 
tives sitting round, and frequently breaking forth in apostro- 
phes of grief. When a widow put off mourning, or ceased to 
mourn for her husband, and was about to marry again, she 
was carried in a chair to the house of the brotherhood, where 
she made demonstrations of the deepest sorrow, and if she fail- 
ed to enact her part satisfactorily, she was castigated without 
mercy. As she entered the door, a lamb was slain upon one 
of the seats in the apartment ; and she presented, on a tray, all 
the old shoes she had worn during widowhood. Having made 
this sacrifice to the manes of her husband, the preliminaries of 
the marriage were settled, and the ceremony concluded in fes- 
tivity. 

When a negro, however, lost his wife, he made no sacrifice 
of the kind ; " for" said he, " a man is contemptible who shows 
sorrow for the death of a wife, when, for one thus lost, an hun- 
dred may be found !"* 

The convent of St. Francis, which stands on the banks of 
the Rimac, is amongst the oldest, and is the largest in Lima. 
Its buildings, church, and cloisters, cover two squares of ground. 
It has its gardens and fountains ; its statues and paintings. The 
church is next in size to the cathedral, and at one time was the 
richest in Peru. Its interior is divided by three naves, tra- 
versed by two aisles, forming a double cross. It contains many 
chapels, shrines, and altars, which are gorgeously decorated 
with gold, silver, ebony, marble, precious stones, velvet, and 
damask, disposed in good taste. On the great altar, in a silver 
sagrario, are deposited the reliques of San Francisco Solano, 

* Mercurio Peruano. torn. 2. 1791. 



240 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

(who was canonized in 1726,) where they rest ''embalmed in 
the aroma of his own virtues."* The splendor of this church 
impresses the beholder with a religious awe; when lighted 
with its thousand candles, and the deep toned organs fill its 
arches with their mellow sounds, it is eminently calculated to 
impose upon the vulgar, and inspire that devotion, which I 
fear has been long an obstacle to the advancement of rational 
liberty in Spanish America. 

The convent of Our Lady of Mercy is less extensive, less 
magnificent, and in a state of greater ruin, from having suffer- 
ed more during the revolution. 

The convent of San Pedro is in better keeping, but was never 
as rich as those already mentioned. In one of its apartments 
is a large but coarse picture of purgatory and hell, in which all 
the torments of the damned are most grotesquely represented. 
In one part of it, a young devil sits astride the shoulders of a 
mortal victim, and confronting him, tearing out his tongue ; 
in another, a red hot bolt of iron is driven longitudinally through 
the head and body with a huge sledge hammer, slung by a 
hideous demon ; here is the death-bed of a Christian, surround- 
ed by angels ; there, that of a sinner, attended by fiends ; again, 
the course of Christian life allegorized in a procession of reli- 
gious of both sexes, contrasted by a mixed company of musi- 
cians, lawyers, and bacchanalians, dancing merrily to "the 
burning gulf." All of which is piously intended to strike ter- 
ror into the hearts of the ignorant and wicked, and thus frighten 
them into the love of the beneficent Almighty ! 

In a large hall of this convent is placed the public Library, 
consisting of eleven thousand volumes, arranged in chapters. 
That of the History of America is a valuable collection, both 
of ancient and modern authors. The collection of Bibles is 
large, and that of the Holy Fathers extensive and curious. 
The Library was instituted on the 21st August 1821, by San 
Martin, who gave a number of valuable works ; but the great 
mass was derived from the convents of the city, by his order. 
A reading room is attached to the library, furnished with mar- 

• Sol y Ano Feliz del Peru. 1735. 



NOTICijS OF PEHU. 241 

ble tables, chairs, maps, charts, &c. No person is allowed to 
read in the library, nor is any one permitted to carry books to 
his own dwelling. The librarian attends on all working days, 
from nine o'clock A. M. to two P. M., and from four P. M. 
till sunset. In these intervals, many resort there to read the 
daily gazettes, and the periodicals of the country. 

This institution, which is under the supervision of the Minis- 
ter of State, is kept in better order, and is more creditable to 
its officers and the government, than any other in Peru. 

The Convent of Monserat, in the western part of the city, 
is small and in a state of ruin. I visited it on a Sunday morn- 
ing, and found the only friar now attached to it, busily at work, 
stacking grass for his horses, assisted by a negro boy. 

Of the nunneries, several in number, I can say nothing, be- 
cause men are not permitted to enter them. Females, however, 
are not permitted to visit the cloisters of any convent, without 
special permission from a prelate, unless they be enceintes! 

Besides the many convents and monasteries, Lima contains 
fifty-seven churches, and twenty-five chapels belonging to hos- 
pitals, colleges, &c. With the exception of Rio de Janeiro, there 
is a more continuous ringing and chiming of bells in this, than 
in any other city I have ever visited. The clocks strike the 
quarters, and no two in the city agree in time, so that one or 
another is striking every five minutes. Then the church, con- 
vent, and monastery bells, are tolled almost every hour for 
some ceremony, and at midnight they summon, with iron 
tongue, the nuns and friars to their vigils. Again, bells are 
tolled after earthquakes, and rung merrily on the receiving of 
joyful news. Habit could not accustom the inhabitants to their 
clamorous din. Therefore, decrees have been issued at difierent 
times, to regulate the length of time which bells might be rung 
on the occasion of funerals, religious ceremonies, and general 
or partial rejoicings. Nevertheless, they soon became as great 
an annoyance as ever. 

From the number of churches and chapels in Lima, it was 

a common saying, many years ago, that "Peru and its capital, 

' The City of Kings,' would send more souls and saints to 

Heaven, than the mines would yield dollars to the world !" Yet 

31 



242- THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

it does not follow, for 1 have seen it remarked, that priests 
bear about the same relation to religion that lawyers do to law ; 
which I think is illustrated in this city. I fear, as has been 
said of the " Niobe of Nations," it contains " too many priests 
to leave any room for religion." Although the whole popula- 
tion may be looked upon as formal Catholics, very few of 
them are strictly or really devout. Their notions of religion 
are confined to the church ceremonies and the confessional. 
Nevertheless, that there are very many pious and truly Chris- 
tian people in Peru, cannot be doubted ; this may be inferred 
from the numerous temples of public worship, and the charita- 
ble institutions of the country. 

Amidst the civil wars which distracted Peru in the years 
following the death of Pizarro, commenced the exercise of 
Christian charity, which rejoices in relieving the sufferings of 
the destitute. Several of the institutions founded at that time 
still remain, and form an interesting, if not a very striking 
contrast with the prevalent licentiousness of the age. 

About the year 1597, Luis Pecador, more pious and phi- 
lanthropic than his name suggests, began collecting alms for 
the purpose of instituting a Foundling Hospital. In 1603, 
the proper licenses being obtained, he commenced receiving 
the little unfortunates, (the sins of their fathers being visited 
upon them,) on a dumb wheel, fixed in the wall of the house 
destined for their reception. Colored children were educated 
as servants, and were placed, when eighteen )'ears of age, with 
eligible masters. In 1648, the number of foundlings main- 
tained was so great, that seventy nurses were employed ; 
though the population was not more than half of what it is in 
the present day, furtive births were more numerous. In 1791, 
this "Casa de Huerfanos" employed one hundred and five 
nurses ! 

The " Colegio de Santa Cruz de las Ninas Expositas," was 
founded in 1659. It was destined for the reception of all 
Spanish white female children, whom their parents cruelly 
abandon, to hide their own shame, and those who are desti- 
tute through the indigence of their fathers. They are re- 
ceived from the tenderest infancy, nursed, clothed, educated. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 243 

and maintained, until they become capable of gaining their 
own subsistence, or are married. It was originally endowed 
with a capital of ^341,626, with some real estate, which 
yielded, in 1791, 14,933 dollars annually. 

The " Casa de Amparadas," or House of Refuge, was 
founded by the Viceroy, Conde de Lemos, in 1670. It re- 
ceived indigent females who were without homes, and an 
apartment was destined for the reception of those whose 
honor and hopes had been blighted by the libertines of the 
capital ; here they were provided for, and every mild means 
was resorted to, for the regeneration of their morals. 

Another institution, perhaps more beneficial than either of 
the others, is the "Real Monte de Piedad." It was begun 
in 1777, with a capital of 23,000 dollars, which was increased 
by donations, by a tax on the lottery of 12,000 dollars, by 
another on the cock-pit of 400 dollars, and an annual benefit 
at the bull-bait. Its object was to aid the poor, and in case of 
their death, to purchase masses for the benefit of their souls. 
In 1792, the directors distributed from three to four thousand 
dollars monthly, amongst from one hundred to one hundred 
and fifty persons. 

Lima contains eleven public hospitals, viz ; San Andrez, 
for lunatics ; Santa Ana, and Santa Maria de la Caridad, for 
women only ; Espiritu Santo, for mariners ; San Bartolome, 
for negroes and the various castes of both sexes, in separate 
houses ; San Juan de Dios; San Pedro; Bethlemitas; the Re- 
fuge, for the incurables of both sexes ; San Lazero, for lepers of 
both sexes ; and Las Camilas, for women under every circum- 
stance and disease. 

All these hospitals are large, and offer a fine field to the 
medical student for acquiring a practical knowledge of all 
forms of disease. The number of flesh wounds, inflicted by 
knives in the personal rencontres, so frequently taking place 
amongst the lower orders, is astonishingly great. Where 
Irishmen of a similar rank resort to the shillalah, and English- 
men and Americans to the fists, Peruvians fly to the knife, 
and end the broil by the death or severe wound of one of the 
party. It is in hospitals and charitable institutions of large 



244 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

cities, that the moral character of the plebeian mass may be 
most correctly estimated, for the reason that misery and 
penury surely follow quick in the footsteps of vice. 

Notwithstanding the number of hospitals and charitable 
institutions of Lima, there is no city where more alms are 
bestowed on individual mendicants than in this. There is 
not a square in which one does not meet squalid wretches, 
maimed or blind, crying in most piteous tones, "Una limos- 
nita, por el amor de Dios" — " Una limosna por un pobre ciego 
que quiere pan, por el amor de mi Senora Maria Purisima" — 
" Alms, for the love of God — Alms for a poor blind man who 
wants bread, for the love of my Lady Mary the Most Pure." 
Saturday is beggars' day, and also the day of duns, when 
merchants' clerks visit debtors to solicit payment. The doors 
of the rich are beset for charity, but they only give to a cer- 
tain few whom they patronize. These are professional mendi- 
cants. In 1832, one of those wretches died rather than give 
two "reales" for medicine, and after his death 80,000 dollars in 
hard cash were found under his bed ! 

The building which was once occupied by the Inquisition, is 
now a jail for common felons. The cells formerly used for 
confining the victims of inquisitorial torments, are so arranged 
that no two doors open into the same passage, which is between 
them. They are eight feet square and ten or twelve high, and 
without light. On one side is an adobe bench, and over it a 
daub of the Virgin and a Crucifix. In some of them the marks 
of fire, where the victims were toasted, still remain. The judg- 
ment halls, with their secret panels and machinery for moving 
the head and eyes of the image of our Saviour, are now the 
offices of the jailors and military guard which protect it. 

The Inquisition, with all its horrors, was established at Lima 
in 1569, and exercised the same functions as in Spain, until it 
was destroyed in 1821 by San Martin. 

One of its halls is occupied by the public museum, which 
contains several Peruvian mummies, some Indian curiosities, 
and a valuable collection of minerals. The whole is badly ar- 
ranged and extremely dirty. It is under the charge of a sci- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 245 

entific Peruvian, who receives from the government an annual 
salary of twelve hundred dollars. 

The University of St. Mark was founded in 1571, by Don 
Francisco de Toledo. Ethics and scholastic learning were at- 
tended to more particularly, in the early years of this institu- 
tion. From a necessity of a knowledge of the Quichua and 
other Indian languages, in propagating the gospel and convert- 
ing the aborigines, a professorship of those languages was early 
established, and continued till 1770, when the Spanish lan- 
guage took their place. Though medicine was taught, the 
chair of anatomy did not exist until 1752, when it was founded 
by the late Dr. Unanu6. 

The professors received low salaries, which were derived 
from donations of pious institutions, and a repartamiento or 
division of Indians, bestowed upon the university by one of 
the viceroys. In the present day, it receives the proceeds of 
one bull-bait yearly, and is occasionally assisted by congress.* 

The medical department of the university is in a languishing 
state, though, from being attached to extensive hospitals, and 
no prejudices existing against dissections, it might, in other 
hands, be made a flourishing school. In 1826, a board of 
trustees was appointed for the examination of students at the 
end of each course of lectures. The professorships are, one of 
anatomy, one of physiology, one of pathology, one of the prac- 
tice of medicine and clinical practice, one of therapeutics and 
pharmacy, and one of surgery and obstetrics, with a demon- 
strator in the anatomical theatre. Besides these, there is one 



• The revenues of the college of medicine, exclusive of students' fees, are 
as follows : — 

From the treasury, for educating fourteen students gratuitously, $2,100 

From the treasury, ...... 3,000 

Settled revenue, ...... 530 

From real estate belonging to the college, ... 500 

From the order of Buenamuerte, - - - . 600 

From the convent of Santo Domingo, .... 1,394 

The proceeds of one bull-bait, estimated at - - - 1,300 

Total, $9,424 



246 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

of natural history aided by an artist or painter, and a professor 
of mathematics and chemistry. 

The students generally reside within the walls of the insti- 
tution. To become a student, the candidate must have attained 
fourteen years of age, and pass an examination in Spanish and 
Latin grammar, reading, writing, and the elements of mathe- 
matics. Out-students pay a fee of five dollars monthly, or sixty 
dollars a year. The whole course occupies four years. In 
1833, it contained thirty-four students. 

The house of representatives occupies an apartment in the 
university. It is oblong, and lighted from a dome above. 
Commodious galleries surround three sides of the hall, for the 
accommodation of spectators ; but no one is permitted to enter 
armed with a sword, or even a cane. A sentinel at the door 
prevents any one from entering who refuses to deposite his 
weapons with him. The speaker's chair is at one end, beneath 
a dosel or canopy, and in the centre stands a table with a cru- 
cifix upon it. The members occupy fixed chairs, arranged in 
two rows along each wall, and are not afforded the means of 
writing at their seats. They sometimes rise and speak from 
their places, but when about arguing a question at length, as- 
cend one of the tribunes, premising, " Seiiores, pido la pala- 
bra" — " Gentlemen, I ask leave of speech." The best orators 
are amongst the clergy — one named Vigil, whom I heard speak 
against Gamarra the president, was eloquent and bold. It is 
said, that he has drawn tears from the whole house. 

Around an inner patio, which is surrounded by a corridor, 
and into which several committee rooms open, are painted on 
the wall, symbolic representations of the several arts and sci- 
ences, each with an appropriate motto from the Latin poets. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 247 



CHAPTER VIII. 



The Cathedral — The Sagririo — Oracidn — The B6veda — Death of Pizarro — 
His interment. 



Without any claims to the character of a very pious man, 
I was led into the cathedral on the first morning after my ar- 
rival. The magnificence and splendor of the interior — the 
interest shed over it by being founded by the conqueror, Pi- 
zarro, and its now being the resting place of his bones, caused 
me to repeat my visits again and again. How little did the 
Marqu6s think, when he placed the corner stone of this edi- 
fice, that it was the foundation of his own mausoleum ! 

In order to have an opportunity of examining the building 
at leisure, and in intervals when no ceremonies were perform- 
ing, I made acquaintance with the sexton, who is a tall, ema- 
ciated old man, with sharp features, and a pair of cunning 
black eyes. He had been in the service of the church, man 
and boy, for forty years. I found him always obliging, and full 
of stories of by-gone days. From habit, he spoke in a subdued 
tone ; and during service, was seen moving about with noise- 
less step, discharging the various duties of his office. A few 
"reales" softened his solemn visage into a pleasant smile, and 
made him always punctual in his appointments. 

The cathedral is divided into three naves. A long row of 
chapels, closed by large doors of turned wooden bars, between 
which the whole interior may be seen, occupy one side of each 
of the, lateral aisles. They are paved with large earthen tiles, 
laid down in diamond form, and are perfectly clear, extending 
from the front to the rear of the building, exceeding three 
hundred feet ; the ceiling being very lofty, and ornamented 
with architraves, arches, and mouldings, makes the great length 
appear greater than it is. The centre nave is broader than the 
others, but not so long ; its floor is raised three steps. At one 



248 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

end of it is the choir, and at the other the " Altar Mayor," or 
great altar. 

The choir, which may be compared to a splendid labyrinth, 
contains a hundred cedar chairs. The back of each one presents 
the half figure of a saint, beautifully carved ; and the spaces 
and panels between them are ornamented with angels, saints, 
animals, birds, and flowers, in relief, executed in the best 
style. The fdcistol, or chorister's desk, which stands in front, 
corresponds with the rest. The sculpture of this spot cost 
30,000 dollars !* Besides two immense organs of surpassing 
melody, not exceeded, it is said, by any in Spain, on certain 
occasions there is an accompaniment of violins, violoncellos, 
harps, and wind instruments. 

Between the great altar and the choir, is the pulpit, splen- 
didly carved and gilded, the cost of which exceeded twelve 
thousand dollars ! 

The Altar Mayor is a magnificent structure, twenty-two feet 
wide and forty-five in height. The base is three feet high. 
Upon it is the altar table, covered with fine cambric, trimmed 
with Mechlin lace. At each corner of this basement stands an 
angel, supporting in the extended hand a silver lamp, and be- 
tween them three large urns ; one contains some relics of 
Santa Rosa ; a second, the head of Santo Toribio ; and the mid- 
dle one, a cross of gold and precious stones. 

The tabernacle is supported by twelve columns of the com- 
posite order, ten feet high ; those in front are of sheet silver, 
and all the capitals, cornices, and mouldings, are richly gilt. 
Together, they form a sort of niche, in which is the sagrdrio 
of silver, surmounted by a figure of our Saviour ; it contains 
the custodium of gold. At the foot of the sagrdrio, is engraved 
in large gold letters, 

ECCE EGO VOBISCUM. ^ 

In the lateral angles are the effigies of St. John the Evangelist, 
and Santa Rosa, the Patroness of the Americas and of Lima, 
the tutelaries of this church. 

• Vide : Fama Postunia del Senor Doctor Don Juan Domingo Gonzalez de 
la Reguera ; Dignisimo XVI. Arzobispo de los Reyes. Lima, MDCCC V. 



NOTICES OP PERU. M9 

On the cornice of this first story, surrounded by a Grecian 
varanda, are eight columns, which rest upon the pilasters of 
the sagrdrio, and support another varanda above ; thus form- 
ing a sort of throne, for a beautiful image of Our Lady, pre- 
sented by the Emperor Charles V. Behind it is the apostle 
Santiago. The whole is canopied with crimson velvet, sup- 
ported by angels, and ornamented with gold lace. Large can- 
delabra, and candlesticks, are tastefully placed in difierent parts 
of the altar, which, when lighted, forms a splendid spectacle. 

Until the revolution of 1821, the standard of Pizarro was 
preserved over the top of the altar. When San Martin left 
Peru, he carried it with him, and considered it his proudest 
trophy. 

Notwithstanding that the columns and pilasters, which sup- 
port the vaulted roof, are hung with crimson velvet, bordered 
with gold lace, and the many pieces of gold and silver on the 
altars, the church is now poor, compared to its state previous 
to the Independence. Immense quantities of plate were taken 
during the war, first by San Martin, and afterwards by Bolivar, 
under the name of loans to the state. One pair of candlesticks, 
taken from the great altar, weighed 1500 marks, or 12,000 
ounces of silver ! 

Behind the Altar Mayor, and opening into the communicating 
passage between the lateral naves, is a chapel dedicated to St. 
Bartholomew, in which is the kneeling statue of Don Bartolo- 
me Lobo Guerrero, the third archbishop of Lima. 

In front of the choir, being the anterior end of the middle 
nave, and fronting the plaza, is the chapel of Nuestra Senora 
de la Antigua. The altar is of massive silver, and above it is a 
painting of Our Lady, holding the infant Saviour in her ai-ms. 
On the left of the altar is a tablet inserted in a pilaster, bearing 
the following inscription ; 

" iV. S. P. Clemente XIV. j)or su breve dell de Junio de 
1771. 

<' Concede h todos los fieles cristianos que verdaderamente 

contritos visitdren este altar de N. S. de la Antigua pidien- 

do por su intencion, por la exaltacion de la Santa Fi, paz 

y Concordia entre los Principes Cristianos, y rezdren la 

32 



250 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Letania de N. S. el Rosario y otras devotas oraciones, todas 
las gracias, Yndulgencias, y anos de perdon que general- 
mente estan concedidos por los Sumos Pontijices siis ante- 
cesores, a los que visituren los altares de otras Santas Yma- 
geoies, y en especial los que concedid Sixto V. y confirmb 
Benedicto Xlll.,paraquepueden aplicarlas por modo de Stc- 
fragio a las Benditas Mmas del Purgatorio todas las veces 
que visitdren este Altar, y rezdren la Letania, el Rosario, 
o' la Salve." 

" Y siendo moralmente imposihle especificar el numero de 
est as Yndulgencias, baste decir que est a concesion es de las 
mas amplias conque la Yglesia puede franquearnos sus te- 
soros para alibio de las Benditas Mmas del Purgatorio." 

" Our Lord the Pope Clement XIV., by his hreve of 11th of 
June 1771." 

"Concedes to all faithful Christians, who, truly contrite, 
may visit this altar of Our Lady of Antigua, asking from their 
hearts, for the exaltation of the Holy Faith, peace and concord 
between Christian Princes ; and pray the Litany of Our Lord, 
the Rosary, and other devout prayers, all the graces, indul- 
gencies, and years of pardon, which are generally conceded by 
the High Pontiffs, his predecessors, to those who may visit the 
altars of other holy images, and especially those conceded by 
Sixtus v., and confirmed by Benedict XHL, that they may 
apply them as a suffrage to the blessed souls in Purgatory, as 
often as they may visit this altar, and pray the Litanyj the 
Rosary, or Salve." 

"And it being morally impossible to specify the number of 
these indulgencies, let it be sufficient to say, that this conces- 
sion is of the most ample of those, by which the church can 
bestow upon us its treasures for the relief of the Blessed Souls 
in Purgatory !" 

The chapels on the sides of the church, are eighteen in num- 
ber. The first on the left, contains a piece of the Sanctum 
Lignum Crucis, presented at the solicitation of Ugart^, the 
fifth archbishop, by Pope Urban VH. In this chapel two mass- 
es are chanted yearly ; one on the day of the Holy Trinity, 
and the other on that of San Antonio de Padua. Besides, there 



NOTICES OF PERU. 251 

are two chaplains maintained, to say continual masses for the 
rest of Archbishop Ugartfe's soul ! 

Adjoining the door leading into the Sacristy, is the chapel 
of Nuestra Senora de la Concepcion, in which are preserved 
memorials of Don Feliciano de Vega, archbishop of Mexico. 
In it, on the day of San Feliciano, a mass was chanted, and a 
sermon preached in the church ; and in more generous times, 
two maidens were married, and presented with a dowry of 
fifteen hundred dollars each ! 

Near, is a chapel dedicated to Santa Polonia. Her shrine is 
famous for the cure of toothach. A single candle burned upon 
her altar, accompanied by a single prayer, and the pain vanish- 
es ! In spite of general faith, the barbers of this city are not 
deprived of much practice in the extraction of teeth, by the 
intervention of this saint's powers ! For this information, I am 
indebted to some of the boys of the choir, who claimed a real, 
as a reward, to buy sweetmeats ; but, finding it was not to be 
had, were satisfied with some cigars. 

There is one chapel, dedicated to La Purisima Concepcion 
de la Virgen, which was the burial place of the Oydores, mi- 
nisters, and officers of the king. 

The other chapels are dedicated to the patron saints of Ca- 
balleros, founded and decorated by them with jewelry and rich 
services of plate. 

In one of these, which was founded by the brotherhood for 
the visitation of Our Lady to Santa Isabel, a feast was cele- 
brated to obtain the favorable interference of their patroness, 
to protect Lima from the ruinous effects of earthquakes^ The 
cabildo of the church now chant grand mass every Tuesday for 
the same object, and at which great numbers of people attend. 

On the door of one of the chapels, is a notice painted on a 
board, that 

" The Illustrious Senor Doctor Don Diego del Corro, Arch- 
bishop of Lima, concedes eighty days of Indulgencies to all 
persons who devoutly pray a salve before Nuestra Sefiora de 
la Candeldria, who is worshipped in this chapel of the Holy 
Martyrs, Sn Crispin and Crispiniano." 
<'Year, 1760." 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

On the side of the pilaster next its entrance, is a tin box 
with a slit in the top, the meaning of which cannot be mis- 
taken, even though an inscription beneath it did not state, 
<< Here is received the alms for Nuestra Senora de la Cande- 
Mria, who is worshipped in this chapel of the Holy Martyrs, 
Sr. Crispin and Crispiniano." 

At the sides of the choir are four quite small chapels, very 
richly furnished. One, which is dedicated to San Pedro, was 
richly endowed, and received many indulgencies from the 
Apostolic See. A chaplain is maintained at five hundred dol- 
lars yearly, to say annually one hundred and fifty masses, and 
to extract a soul from Purgatory every Monday and Friday 
throughout the year !* 

The sacristy of the cathedral is ornamented on one side with 
cedar panels carved in relief, representing our Saviour and 
the twelve apostles. Above them are paintings of the seasons, 
and on the opposite wall hang portraits of the archbishops and 
distinguished officers of the church. This apartment is fur- 
nished with presses and wash stands. A plentiful supply of 
brocades, lamas of gold and silver, cambrics, laces, and altar 
paraphernalia, are contained in the wardrobes and drawers sur- 
rounding the walls. 

From the sacristy a door opens into a large room, in which 
all the temporal affairs of the church are transacted ; it is the 
chapter. 

The sagrdrio is a small parochial church, communicating 
with the cathedral, under the administration of the parish in 
which the cathedral is. It contains several chapels. The Altar 
Mayor is a splendid structure of statuary and painting, so nicely 
blended, that at a short distance, a coup deceit cannot distin- 
guish them. A long form or bench stands on each side of this 
church, and behind, a row of confessionals or boxes, in which 
the priests sit and listen to the chronicles of sin. A tin plate 
perforated with holes is placed in the side, in a convenient po- 
sition for the ear of the Father, and below is a step on which 
the person confessing kneels while he whispers the history of 

• Fama Postuma del Seiior Beguera. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 253 

his sins. Neither the confessor nor the confessed see each 
other. The females are completely hidden in the saya y 
manto, so that the priest knows not whose sins are filtered into 
his ear ! 

Before the front door of the sagrdrio is a high wooden screen, 
which hides the altar and interior of the church from the 
plaza. On it are pasted various notices and placards, an- 
nouncing certain feasts, indulgencies, and necessary penances, 
which are generally addressed, "To the faithful in Christ." 
Not unfrequently a few lines, written in a crabbed hand, ad- 
vise " the faithful" that Fray (somebody) is deceased, and that 
masses are still owing for the benefit of his soul, and for which 
alms are required! 

From daylight until about eleven o'clock, there is a constant 
succession of masses said in the several chapels; and about 
nine o'clock, grand mass is chanted at the great altars of the 
cathedral and sagrdrio. About ten o'clock, at the elevation of 
the host, one of the great bells is struck two or three times, 
and in an instant, the hum of business, the clatter of horses' 
feet, the cries of the town, cease — all Lima is plunged into a 
most dead silence. The streets present groups of people stand- 
ing with their hats off; horses, mules, and donkeys look asto- 
nished that their labors should cease for an instant; all who 
happen to be in the plaza, near the church, kneel — all Lima is 
at devotion, and heaven seems to be assailed with one mighty 
torrent of aves and pater nosters. This state of things lasts 
about a minute, and the whole is again set in motion by a 
merrier striking of the bell — conversation and business are re- 
sumed at the very points where they were interrupted. This 
is the morning ^' oraci&n." At sunset it is repeated. It is the 
most solemn and impressive custom witnessed in Catholic 
countries. 

Every morning, ladies in saya y manto are seen passing 
along the portdl to and from the cathedral, followed by little 
slaves carrying small rugs. In the church they are kneel- 
ing, either before the great altar or some of the chapels, 
with their slaves behind them. The beads of the rosary are 
counted over j and they then return. Old and young, rich 



254 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and poor, the maimed and the blind, are found in every part 
•of this great building during every morning. 

One day I was accompanied to this church by an American 
lady, and walked through it, with her arm drawn through 
mine. Presently we were admonished by a can6nigo that we 
were in the temple of God, and that it was highly indecorous 
for the lady to take my arm ! The can&nigo stood with his 
long clerical hat under his arm, and inquired whether we 
were American or English. When informed, he made many 
inquiries relative to our country. He asked how many Roman 
Catholic churches there were in the United States, and whe- 
ther there was a bishop there. He was pretty well acquainted 
with the general history of our country and its great resources, 
and eulogized our institutions, but argued warmly against re- 
ligious toleration. 

I have yet to describe a very interesting part of the cathe- 
dral. I mean the B&veda or great vault beneath the Altar 
Mayor. After several visits and conversations with priests 
and the worthy sacristln, I obtained the key which opens the 
door. After the sexton had pushed back the bolt, several 
strong efforts were required to move the hinges, stiffened by 
long want of use. The sexton, with a long candle in his hand, 
preceded me down a short flight of steps into a sort of ante- 
chamber, in which were several supernumerary saints, sa- 
viours, pictures, torches, and candlesticks, strewed about in 
familiar confusion. I followed my leader through a low arched 
passage, into a room about twenty feet square, and fifteen high. 
In the centre of the floor is the mouth of a vault or well, 
covered by loose boards, upon which the worthy sexton was 
unwilling for either of us to trust our weight. Around the 
walls are boxes of rough planks, extending from the floor to 
the roof or ceiling, arranged one above the other. Some of 
them were broken, and disclosed to view those dead, who, 
when living, had been illustrious in church and state. The 
sepulchral vesture was black, but so old and dry, that a touch 
of the finger turned it to dust ! The skin was entire, of a 
sombre parchment hue, and so hard, that when tapped with a 
cane, it yielded a hollow, empty sound. It was shrunk close 



NOTICES OF PERU. 255 

over the bones of the face, giving sharpness to the features j 
the eyelids were closed and sunk deep into the sockets ; the 
hands were clasped in front below the chest, and the feet were 
bare. Yet the sight was not awful. I thought that Methuse- 
lah, towards the close of his nine hundred years of life, might 
have looked thus when sleeping. 

While gazing on one of these withered corses, the sacristan, 
looking closely at the head, said, in his habitually subdued 
tone, *' Este debe ser Virrey, porque no lleva corona" — This 
must be a vice-king, because he does not wear a crown, (a 
queer reason,) meaning the clerical tonsure. Could this be 
the conqueror Pizarro ! It was not the body of a churchman, 
as the sacristdn had shrewdly remarked, yet there were no 
inscriptions on any of the boxes fixed to the wall. Neverthe- 
less, it is certain that in this b6veda is deposited whatever 
remains of Pizarro's body. Whether it be in the well beneath, 
or in this upper vault, I could not discover. 

On one side of the vault lay a long box, with a piece of 
parchment nailed on one end of it, bearing the following in- 
scription in Roman letters, and without date. 

" El Sor. Dr. Santiago de Mendoza, Dean que fue de 
ESTA Santa Yglesia." 

<'The Senor Dr. Santiago de Mendoza, who was Dean of 
this holy church." 

There are three other boxes, containing the bones of a Dean 
and two Prebendaries of the church, as we are informed by 
the inscriptions, which bear date 1728, 1766, and 1771. These 
were the only inscriptions I could discover. 

When we ascended into the church, the good sexton, through 
the intervention of that eloquent mute, whose language is irre- 
sistible, and whose possessor always enjoys the respect of the 
world, was prevailed upon to return the key to the Ec6nomo,* 
without locking the door. Thus I secured for myself access 
on other occasions. 

After Pizarro had founded the «' City of Kings," and his 



* The oificer appointed to administer the fiscal affairs of the church, and to 
superintend generally all its property, moveable as well as real. 



256 THREE TEARS IN THfi PACIFIC. 

companion, Almagro, had returned from an unsuccessful expe- 
dition to Chile, dissatisfaction and strife arose between the Pi- 
zarros and Almagros. Civil war was the result, and a bloody 
battle was fought at Salinas, and another on the river Amancay. 
Almagro was taken prisoner in Cuzco, and sentenced to death 
by Fernando Pizarro, the brother of the marques, on the charge 
of having concerted, with Manco Inca, plans of a rebellious 
nature; of having entered Cuzco under arms; and of having 
slain several Spaniards. Almagro entreated to be allowed to 
die in prison, and urged his petition, by reminding his unre- 
lenting judge, that he had never shed the blood of one of Pi- 
zarro's friends, though many of them had been in his power ; 
and that he had been the principal instrument in elevating the 
marques to the pinnacle of earthly glory and honor. In conclu- 
sion, he said ; '< Behold me, an old, emaciated, gouty man — let 
me pass in prison the few days of life that may yet remain, 
to weep for you and for my sins !" His appeal, Garcilaso tells 
us, " would have moved a heart of steel ; but Fernando Pizarro 
was firm to his purpose, because he feared the vengeance of 
Almagro, if he escaped, and moreover, he had received instruc- 
tions from the marques." 

Almagro was hung in prison, and afterwards publicly be- 
headed in the plaza at Cuzco, in 1538. 

Almagro left a son named Don Diego, begotten of an Indian 
woman. With a number of his friends, he was sent to Lima, 
where they held meetings, and brooded over their sorrows, 
for they were destitute of even the common necessaries of life. 
They felt themselves entitled to a share of the wealth and 
splendor which Pizarro was enjoying, because they had shared 
in the dangers and toils which had gained them. The expedi- 
tion to Chile had not been crowned with success. Their leader 
had been sacrificed. They awaited impatiently the decision of 
the king, on charges which had been forwarded, of the cruelty 
and oppression of the Pizarros. They heard that Vaca de Cas- 
tro, who had been appointed to investigate the causes of their 
complaints, had arrived at Buenaventura, on his way to Lima. 
It was said that Pizarro had sent a large sum of money to Pa- 
nama, for the purpose of suborning this judge ; and in the event 



NOTICES OF PEKU. 257 

of not succeeding, it was supposed that he would cause his 
death, rather than suflfer him to reach the city. It was reported 
too, that Pizarro intended to banish young Almagro and his 
associates. All these things wrought upon the goaded feelings 
of "those of Chile," as Almagro's party was contemptuously 
styled, until, seeing no prospect of redress through the tedious 
process of Spanish justice, they resolved to right their own 
wrongs. 

Seeing the state of poverty in which the companions of young 
Almagro were left, from their property having been confiscated 
by Fernando Pizarro, the marques proffered to them offices of 
trust and emolument under his government. But recollecting 
their cruel treatment after the battle of Salinas, and cherishing 
the hope of obtaining justice at the hands of Vaca de Castro, 
when he should arrive, they scorned the offer, preferring to 
live by mutual assistance, and sharing the table of young Al- 
magro, who inherited a part of his father's estates. There was 
one mess of seven, who had but a single cloak amongst them) 
and when one was out, the rest waited at home for his re- 
turn. They sallied forth each in turn, and maintained them- 
selves by gambling. By common consent, Juan de Rada was 
both treasurer and caterer. 

This state of things gave birth to a conspiracy against Pizar- 
ro's life, at the head of which was the same Juan de Rada, who 
appears to have been a man of cunning, effrontery, and despe- 
rate courage. Soon after the organization of the conspiracy, 
several insults were offered to the marqu6s. To express what 
the conspirators thought to be merited by Pizarro, Antonio 
de Picado his secretary, and Doctor Juan Velasquez, a gallows 
was hung up over night, before each of their doors. The mar- 
ques treated this insult with contempt, and remarked, when 
advised to guard against attempts at his life ; " Their heads 
will be answerable for mine !" The conspiracy became public, 
yet Pizarro walked about as usual without a guard, and even 
visited his mills, which were beyond the city, attended only 
by a single page. 

One day, Juan de Rada visited Pizarro, and found him in 
his garden. When the marques asked why he was at that time 
33 



858 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

purchasing arms, the conspirator replied ; " Is it so strange that 
we should provide ourselves with cuirasses and coats of mail, 
when your highness is collecting lances to slay us all?" The 
marqu6s said, the lances were not bought to be used against 
<' those of Chile," nor had they any thing to fear; he awaited 
anxiously the arrival of Vaca de Castro, and hoped that existing 
difficulties might be adjusted. When about to depart, Pizarro 
plucked six oranges from a tree, and presented them to him, 
which was at that time deemed a high compliment, because 
oranges had been but recently introduced into Peru. 

The insults of the Almagro party were retorted by the 
friends of Pizarro. Antonio de Picado, his secretary, wore 
on his cap a gold medal with a fig enamelled upon it, bearing 
the motto, " Para los de Ciiile" — For those of Chile. 

St. John's day was fixed on by the conspirators for the exe- 
cution of their plan, but Pizarro became suspicious, and ab- 
sented himself from the church celebration, nor did he attend 
mass on the following Sunday. This induced many of his 
friends and officers to visit him on that day, which led the con- 
spirators to suspect that measures would be taken to frustrate 
their designs. 

Pedro de San Millan went directly to Juan de Rada, and 
with the semblance of truth told him, he had ascertained be- 
yond a doubt, that all would be seized and put to death in less 
than two hours. This was an invention of San Millan to hasten 
the completion of the bloody design. Juan de Rada at once 
joined some of the party, and made them an address, in which 
he said: "If we prove ourselves valiant, and succeed in 
putting the tyrant to death, as we have determined, we shall 
not only avenge the Adelantado, Almagro, which is as much 
desired by us now, as if his death had happened only yester- 
day, but we shall obtain in this land, the rewards to which our 
services most justly entitle us. And unless we are unanimous 
qn this subject, our heads will soon grace the pillory in the 
plaza ; therefore, let every one of us look well to the matter \" 

The conspirators armed themselves on the spot, sallied into 
the street, and joined others of the party at Almagro's house. 
It was Sunday, about mid-day, on the twenty-sixth of June 



NOTICES OF PERU. 259 

1541.* They passed through the streets, shouting, "viva el 
rey — mueran tiranos" — long live the king — perish tyrants — 
and, says Herrera, " though the stt^eets and plaza were filled 
with people, no one offered them resistance.^' They entered 
from the plaza into the first patio, where they met three ser- 
vants of Pizarro, one of whom named Hurtado they attacked 
and severely wounded. This patio communicates with another 
on its western side, which opens into the palace and the street 
on which is at present the principal entrance. From it a long 
sala or hall, about twenty feet wide, leads towards the northern 
end of the building. On entering the door from the street, a 
short flight of steps, each one being as long as the breadth of 
the sala, conducts you to a landing some thirty feet in length. 
From this, there is another flight of eight or ten steps, at the 
top of which is the door of the hall. Here a spot is generally 
pointed out to travellers, on which, it is said, Pizarro expired. 
When the conspirators entered the first court, the marques 
was in the sala, conversing with Diego de Vargas, in company 
with nineteen others, whom Herrera names, besides several 
servants, all armed with their swords and bucklers. A page, 
who perceived the conspirators cross the plaza and enter the 
palace, and recognising Juan de Rada and Martin de Bilbao, 
ran in great consternation to the apartments of Pizarro, crying, 
" Al arma, al arma, que todos los de Chile vienen a matar al 
marqu6s mi Senor!" — To arms, to arms, for all of those of 
Chile are coming to kill my lord, the marques. At this, Pi- 
zarro and those with him descended to the landing on the stairs, 
to inquire into the cause of alarm. At that instant the conspi- 
rators entered the second patio, shouting, *' long live the king, 



• Robertson, the historian, would lead us to believe that it was a warm, 
sultry day, and that Pizarro was nearly alone. He seems to have overlooked 
the fact that June is a winter month in Lima, and that the inhabitants usually 
wear cloaks when they walk the streets. Don Juan Nuix, in his " Reflexiones 
Imparciales," translated fiom the Italian by D. Pedro Varela y Ulloa, (Ma- 
drid, 1782), charges Dr. Robertson with wilful inaccuracy on many points. 
*' Robertson, to prove the cruelty of the Spaniards by the testimony of our 
own writers, alleges, not what these say, but what he thinks they ought to 
have said about the conquests of Peru and Mexico." 



260 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

perish tyrants." Those who had descended the stairs returned 
to the sale, and in one way or another, sneaked off; Doctor 
Juan Velasquez and the Inspector jumped through a window 
into the garden. 

The marques and his maternal brother, Francisco Martinez 
de Alcantara, with two pages, hastened to a wardrobe to arm 
themselves. Pizarro divested himself of a long robe of scarlet 
cloth, and hastily armed himself with a coracina — an ancient 
kind of cuirass — and a sword or spear, it is doubtful which, 
for Herrera says the one, and Garcilaso the other. In the 
mean time, Francisco de Chaves and four others remained in 
the sala. 

The conspirators mounted the stairs, headed by Juan de 
Rada, who exclaimed, "Happy day! Almagro has friends to 
avenge his death." The door was closed. Chaves opened it; 
though he had been ordered to keep it t^hut, to gain time for 
the arrival of succor. A blow nearly severed his head from 
his body, which rolled down the steps. His two servants were 
killed. " Those of Chile" rushed into the sala, crying, "where 
is the tyrant, where is the tyrant?" Martin de Bilbao sought 
Pizarro's chamber. Juan Ortiz de Zarate struck him one or 
two blows with a halbert, and received a severe wound in re- 
turn. Francisco de Alcantara defended the door of the ante- 
chamber with his sword and buckler, but seeing the second 
door lost, he retreated to the marques's chamber. Now 
"those of Chile" cried, "Let the tyrant die; we lose time." 
The conqueror of Peru, though past sixty years of age, de- 
fended the door most valiantly, with his two pages fighting by 
his side. For some time the conspirators were kept at bay. 
Finding that they could not force a passage, they pushed one 
Narvaez with great force upon the marques, and while he and 
the two pages dealt their blows upon this victim, the other 
conspirators rushed into the chamber and engaged Pizarro en 
masse. He wounded several of them, but at last, receiving a 
thrust in the throat, fell, covered with wounds, calling upon 
Jesus Christ; and making a cross upon the ground with his fin- 
ger, kissed it and expired ! Juan Rodrigues de Borregan dashed 
upon his head an alcardz of water with so much force as to 



NOTICES OP PERU. 261 

break it, and thus extinguished the feeble life gleam that yet 
remained ! 

Francisco Martinez de Alcantara and the two pages were 
killed, and the rest of Pizarro's friends were severely wounded. 

The conspirators left the body, and sallied through the 
street into the plaza, crying, "Long live the king, the tyrant 
is dead." They then returned to the palace, and sacked it of 
about a hundred thousand dollars' worth of valuables, and 
were about to cut off Pizarro's head and place it on the 
pillory, "but," says the worthy Fray Calancha, "the wife of 
Juan de Barberan bought it with her tears !" She rolled the 
body in a coarse sack and secured it with a rope. A slave 
carried it on his shoulders through a secret door which opened 
on the river, and around the back of the palace, to the church. 
As the marques was corpulent, and the distance more than 
two squares, the slave was compelled by fatigue to drag the 
body a part of the way along the ground. In a spot where 
they were making adobes at the time, he put it into a hole 
and covered it with earth, without sound of bell or ecclesi- 
astic ceremony ! 

Afterwards the obsequies were hastily celebrated, only by 
Pedro Lopez, Juan de Barberan and his wife. Time was not 
allowed them to array the corpse in the style which they 
deemed befitting its rank. Not a dollar was left in the palace, 
and they asked alms to defray the expenses of the funeral !* 

"For several years," says Calancha, "I saw the bones of 
the marqu6s in a small box, deposited in the sacristy of the 
Iglesia mayor — principal church at Lima, until it should be 
finished. And they remained there several years afterwards, 
because the place of their? sepulture had not been determined. 
At last the king, in a royal cedula, ordered his body to be 
placed, together with that of the Viceroy Don Antonio de 
Mendoza, in a vault near the Altar Mayor." 

* Uerrera, Gomara, Zarate, Garcilaso, &c. 



262 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER IX. 



Morning visits — A family — Conversation — Difficult for foreigners to enter 
society — Female education — Ignorance of Geography — Provincialisms — A 
tertulia — Monte al dao — Use of Tobacco — Morale of Lima society — Habits 
of the ladies — A good trait in the Lima character — Gambling. 



Sundays and feast days are appointed for visiting. The 
officers of the government, civil and military, make calls on 
the President, and on their friends. 

' It is the fashion to make morning visits only on holy-days. 
Calesas are rolling through the streets in every direction. 
These vehicles present a grotesque appearance at first; the 
wheels are so large, the mules comparatively so small, and 
the cales6ros have such quaint liveries. The ladies do not 
wear the saya y manto when riding, but ornament the hair 
with dahlias and jasmine flowers, and dress in gay silks taste- 
fully trimmed. Though so many colors are assembled to- 
gether, they are harmonized with much taste. White silk 
stockings and satin shoes, of every color except black, which 
stamp a woman as poor, or of the second class, adorn the 
feet. The extravagance of the ladies in these articles, is 
great, though comparatively trifling now ; thirty years ago, 
silk stockings were sold at from twenty to forty dollars the 
pair, and then it was a matter of reproach to wear them after 
they had been washed ! So soon as their lustre was gone, 
they were thrown aside. It is an invariable rule with all 
classes, and has been from time almost immemorial, to pur- 
chase new shoes every Saturday. Cotton stockings are rarely 
seen, not even in dishabille. Silk shawls are carelessly worn 
half off" the shoulders, and the hands are employed with a 
small fan, which is scientifically fluttered and cracked every 
few minutes. 

On Sundays I usually visited a family considered of haut 



NOTICES OF PERU. 263 

ton. The female part consisted of the mother Dona Panchita 
and three marriageable daughters. Their house is large. 
The sala occupies the back of the terraplan, and is furnished 
with chairs, a rough table, and two long leather backed sofas. 
A large glass lantern hangs from the centre of the ceiling. 
This apartment is a common lounge for servants. To the left 
is a sitting room, the walls of which are covered with crimson 
damask hangings, supported by gilt cornices, and furnished 
with tables, a pair of sofas, and chairs. Here the family gen- 
erally sit when visited by familiar friends. A large glass 
door with gilded sash opens from the sala into the cuddra or 
parlor, which is perhaps forty by thirty feet, and the ceiling 
is twenty feet high. Like the sitting room, the walls are 
tapestried with crimson damask, secured by gilt cornices 
and moulded surbases. The windows are near the ceiling, 
and closed by rough inside shutters, which are managed by 
silk cords terminated by tassels hanging into the room. A 
Brussels carpet, with a large figure and of gay colors, covers 
the floqj^ On the right are two white damask sofas, made 
of light wood. The chairs correspond. Several small card 
tables, chairs, and four large mirrors, are placed along the 
walls. At convenient distances are silver and beautiful China 
spitoons alternating with each other. A centre table with 
marble top completes the furniture. Through a glass parti- 
tion with gilt sash, at the end of the room opposite to the 
sofas, is seen a dormitory, which is the pride of the family. 
A high, tented canopy of blue silk with gold fringe, and cur- 
tains of the same looped up to the posts, overhang a capa- 
cious bed, the counterpane of which is of yellow satin, cover- 
ed with flowers, embroidered in the appropriate colors. The 
pillow cases are of fine, tambored cambric over pink satin. 
Ml the utensils in this magnificent chamber are of solid silver ! 
Beds which cost a thousand dollars are by no means uncom- 
mon now, and before the revolution, two thousand were often 
expended on this piece of furniture ! 

In the first apartment I have attempted to describe, attired 
in gay silks and lace, their necks and fingers sparkling with 
brilliants, sit the mother and her daughters, entertaining a half 



264 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

dozen female visiters. Such a flirting of fans, (the Spectator 
could not have instructed his pupils better in this art) — such a 
mutual scrutiny of dress — such adjusting of shawls, is not easily 
described. One thrusts forward the point of her foot — and they 
have pretty feet — and another looks over her shoulder. Every 
thing is formal and cold ; I have never seen such heartless re- 
ceptions given to friends in any other place, but this gradually 
wears off in a few minutes; the conversation then becomes 
sprightly and gay, sprinkled with flashes of wit and humor. 
The usual subjects discussed, are the theatre, bull-bait, or Ala- 
meda, with a sufficient dash of personal scandal and gossip, to 
render it piquant. The history of some friend's accouchement, 
with all the details, is a prolific theme, particularly if it happen 
to be a little out of the common order, for then all the miracu- 
lous cases are brought to mind, and related by the elder ladies. 
In these discussions, the youngest children take part, and speak 
quite knowingly of things, which in our country are hidden 
arcana, only revealed to the initiated. That squeamishness 
complained of by a late notorious traveller in the United States, 
is unknown; the portrait drawn of Miss Clarissa and Mr. Smith, 
could have no original in Lima. Whatever is found in nature, 
or nature's functions, is not an improper topic for a lady's ear, 
if discreetly managed. If any thing be said which oversteps 
the bounds of delicacy, a lady generally exclaims, " Gua ! que 
listira !" but does not blush, nor veil her face with her fan. In- 
deed, indelicate allusions give a piquancy to conversation which 
is agreeable to many. Another all absorbing subject is health. 
It is doleful to listen to the croakings of the old women, when 
they chronicle their aches and pains, or recommend to their 
friends some quack remedy, which has produced miraculous 
effects in their own cases. As self-interest is sometimes touched, 
the losings and winnings of friends at gaming tables, are heard 
of with delighted admiration. Literature is out of the question ; 
books were only intended to supply the place of conversation. 
I have seldom heard a Peruvian lady say she had read any 
book whatever. I knew a gentleman who loaned a lady a trans- 
lation of Ivanhoe, and asked her, at the end of three months, 
how she liked it. She replied ; <' I have not yet opened it — I 



NOTICES OF PERU. 265 

was reserving it for the long winter nights, when we have no 
terttilia!" 

The visit ended, the ladies embrace in the most cordial man- 
ner, and gently chide their visiters for staying away so long; 
but they never return a visit in less than two weeks, and sel- 
dom in less than a month. Foreigners require a long time to 
become acquainted in Lima society ; the Limanians are jealous 
and suspicious, and entertain strong prejudices against them, 
which have their origin in jealousies existing between the Spa- 
niards and Creoles from the earliest period — jealousies that led 
to family quarrels and general dissensions.* The old ladies are 
wont to say, that previous to the revolution, they did not see 
young ladies take gentlemen's arms at night, when walking 
from the theatre — and indeed they expect the time will come 
when girls will do so even in broad day light ! Ladies in Lima 
think it highly indecorous to be seen walking the streets in 
saya y manto, attended by gentlemen. Not being aware of this 
fact, a late traveller has cast a severe slur on the character of 
several females, whom he saw in the Alam6da de la Portdda, 
which, I am sure, was inadvertently done on his part. 

It may be inferred from what I have said of a morning call, 
that the education of the Lima ladies is very limited. At 
school they learn to read indifferently well ; to write worse ; 
to embroider with floss silk ; to use the needle ; and to their 
credit be it spoken, they generally make their own dresses, 
and not unfrequently their own shoes ! Mantua makers, how- 
ever, are few, and until within a very few years, were entirely 
unknown. They acquire a slight knowledge of music, and play 
the piano and guitar passably well. Since the revolution, some 
few have studied French. Dancing is an hereditary accomplish- 
ment, passed down from generation to generation. I have never 
heard of such a being as a dancing master in the city, yet all 
are graceful in the waltz and contradance. / The beneficial ef- 
fects of certain public amusements upon society, have been 
lately shown in Lima. The Italian Opera Company, which 
left there in 1832, diffused an almost universal taste for Italian 

* See Noticias Secretas de America. Loiidres. 1826. 
34 



266 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC 

music ; and now every young lady of fashion sings and plays 
the best pieces of Rossini and Paccini ; and many have learned 
to read Italian. 

The Limanians are most wofully ignorant of geography and 
history. I have been frequently asked, "in what part of Phi- 
ladelphia is London ?" '' Even some," says a Spanish traveller 
in 1826, " who are reputed to be learned and wise, believe 
that England is a city, and the capital of a country called Lon- 
don !"* 

I was acquainted with a beautiful woman, of about twenty 
years of age, who moved in the second rank, but had been re- 
duced from the first by the reverses of her family. She was 
remarkable for natural intelligence, the easy flow of her con- 
versation, and the purity of her language. One evening, when 
the conversation turned on geography, she remarked; "you 
seem to know every thing — do tell whether it is true that the 
world turns round every day !" 

"Most assuredly." 

"How wonderful!" she exclaimed, "and what a miracle 
that we are not sensible of it !" 

I then asked her whether she knew that the world is round, 
and whether she was aware that vessels sail around it. She re- 
plied; "I believe that to be a fact, but I do not see any thing 
so very astonishing in a voyage of circumnavigation, for I am 
informed that the world is in the middle of the sea !" 

I endeavored to explain to her the solar system, at which 
she expressed great admiration. After talking an hour, and 
illustrating the form of the earth with an orange, she sighed, 
and said, "puede ser! — it may be — but I hear so many dif- 
ferent stories about the same thing, that I scarcely know which 
to believe ; I wish that God had told us all about it in the bible, 
and then nobody could doubt !" 

An excuse for the want of education, and ignorance of lite- 
rature among the females, is found in the late colonial system 
of Spain, which could not have existed so long as it did, had 
no precautions been taken to withhold knowledge from the 

• Un Transeunte. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 267 

people. Yet this is but one of the many commentaries to be 
found on the cruelty of that system, and the present generation 
should not be reproached with it. From the conviction of the 
better classes of men, that the country cannot be tranquil while 
universal ignorance prevails, and from the exertions which 
have been lately made to establish schools throughout Peru, it 
is to be hoped, that the next generation will be better informed. 

When a people are deficient in general knowledge, it cannot 
be expected that they should speak their language with purity. ' 
Though it is said that the Spanish is better spoken in Lima, 
than in any other part of South America bordering the Pacific^ 
there are many palpable errors in pronunciation, and many 
provincialisms which pass current even in the best society. 
Both in writing and speaking, the II and y are frequently sub- 
stituted one for the other ; as, yanto for llanto — lldravi for 
yAravi — Taraya for Taralla, &c. The B and V are very 
generally confounded, and the ultimate D in the participle is 
almost constantly suppressed, as, armdo for armado, consuliio 
for consulado, &c. 

The tert<ilias of Lima are attended by a certain fashionable 
set, who have their evenings at home in turn, so that there is 
one or two soirees every week. They vary but little from 
each other, and seeing one is seeing the whole, for the same 
company and the same amusements are usually found. It is at 
these tert61ias, the accomplishments of the ladies may be seen 
to the greatest advantage. 

On a Sunday evening I visited my friend Dona Panchita. 
The ladies of the party were of several castes, from the Cir- 
cassian complexion, passing through light and dark brunette, 
to that in which Africa had claims for several sombre shades. 
One lady in particular drew my attention, who was evidently 
of an Ethiopian ancestry, for her hair had an uncontrollable 
disposition to curling and crisping, which all her combs could 
not suppress. She was musical, and played and sang some of 
Rossini's pieces with great energy, to the admiration of every 
body. Though these parties are attended on a general invita- 
tion, and take place on stated nights, the ladies always appear 
in full dress. They wear two very light combs, cut in various 



268 THREE YEAnS IN THE PACIFIC. 

forms ; some resemble baskets of flowers, some are like feathers, 
and others are in the guise of wreaths. Besides the combs, the 
only ornaments worn in the hair, are natural flowers, which 
they are eminently tasteful in arranging. 

The Limenas possess good figures, serene countenances, 
rather inclining to pensiveness, vivid black eyes, and are skill- 
ed in all the little blandishments of coquettes and belles. Their 
conversation is sprightly at times, and I think I have never 
seen any thing in their manners to which the term mauvaise 
honte can be applied — not even when surprised in the most 
ordinary dishabille. 

Among the gentlemen were several generals and colonels, 
in gorgeous uniforms, glittering in the dim light of tallow can- 
dles, and looking as fierce as mustaches and whiskers could 
make them. The tonsures of the curate, a canonigo, and seve- 
ral priests from a neighboring convent, were conspicuous. 
About seven o'clock, tea and cofl'ee were served, and immedi- 
ately afterwards the party grouped off, and the amusements of 
the evening began. 

The young ladies and gentlemen took possession of the draw- 
ing room, to amuse themselves with music and dancing, while 
the elder part of the assemblage formed a party to play at 
" Monte al dao." The can&nigo, and a colonel, sat down at 
chess ; a general and a priest were soon engaged at backgam- 
mon, playing for an onza (^17) a game, and Dona Panchita's 
husband, who is tolerant of all his wife's ways, with a veteran 
general and two old ladies, retired into a corner to divert their 
minds with "malilla." 

The *' monte al dao," is a game (I believe) only played in 
Peru. A table was placed in the centre of the room, and co- 
vered with a green cloth, having two concentric circles drawn 
upon it, which were crossed by diametrical lines, and in the 
quadrants or angles thus formed, were alternately written A 
and S. Each one of the company seated round the table, had 
a little heap of gold and silver before him. Opposite to each 
other, at the sides of the table, stood two gentlemen ; one had 
a large pile of gold and silver before him, and the other threw 
a pair of dice from his hand, with a careless ease which long 



NOTICES OP PERU. 269 

practice alone tian bestow. The bets were placed, some within 
the angles, and others betwixt the circles. 

" Todo como pinta !"^ — All as it appears — cried the banker, 
thereby announcing that if gold coins were hidden among the 
silver, they would not be reckoned such. 

" Ya voy !" — Now I cast — said the thrower of dice, and 
agitating them in the hollow of his hand, for a single moment, 
the fatal cubes rolled over the cloth. The eyes of those seated, 
followed them with interest, while those who stood behind the 
ladies' chairs, stretched forward to see how fortune's favors 
went. The throw resulted in nothing. The dice again rolled 
over the table, followed by all eyes. " Ace and deuce !" cried 
a half dozen at the same time. The S lost, and the A won. The 
ladies who had bet on A, extended their hands, glittering with 
diamond rings, to gather in their winnings, while those who 
had risked on S, saw their cash scooped into the banker's pile. 
The money between the circles still remained. Bets were again 
made, and the dice again thrown. 

The game is thus : ace and deuce, doublets ace, deuce and 
four, win for A ; five and six, and doublets three, five and six, 
w^in for S. The bets between the circles are lost and won, only 
when doublets are thrown. The advantage possessed by the 
bank, is a discount of one-fifth, when the bets are decided by 
the first throw. 

The amounts staked, are from a real to one, two, and even 
three hundred dollars ! Sometimes gold alone is admitted on 
the table. I have seen ten thousand dollars lost and won on a 
Sunday morning ! So strong is the passion for this game, that 
children of eight or ten years old are seen at tertdlias, ventur- 
ing their pocket money at monte ! 

As the players became more interested, the bets grew high- 
er, and the betters increased in number, forming a crowd round 
the table. All was silent. The muscles of those who lost, be- 
came rigid, producing a most unpleasant expression of counte- 
nance, and the cigars were smoked more rapidly than ever. 
The winners allowed the smoke to curl from the mouth and 
nostrils in a quiet cloud, while a smile of satisfaction played 
over their features. Ladies and gentlemen smoke together, A 



270 THREE FEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

frequent compliment paid by the hostess, is to present a cigar, 
after smoking a few whiffs, to her most distinguished guest. 

*' Qui vit sans tabac n'est pas digne de vivre !"* seems to be 
a creed subscribed to in Lima. Within a few years, however, 
the elder ladies alone smoke in this kind of tert6Iia; the younger 
■ones enjoy the cigar only in private, and very many never in- 
dulge in this practice. I have never seen a Limanian who 
chewed tobacco, but snuff taking is quite common. As in Chile, 
the " pinganillos," or dandies, carry small gold tweezers to 
hold the ^'cigarito," to avoid staining their fingers. 

It is interesting to observe the contrast between the parties 
in the different rooms. In the one is a scene of gambling en- 
veloped in cigar smoke, while in the other is presented a pic- 
ture of hilarity and innocent amusement. A few cakes and 
sweetmeats, with cordial and wine, are the only refreshments 
served. About half past ten o'clock the party broke up, and 
the family, after partaking of a hot supper, retired. 

The morale of Lima society, may be gathered from the fact, 
that females, married or single, who are known to have yielded 
to amatory intrigues, are received in the fashionable circles. 
Few persons who know any thing of Lima, have not heard of 
the celebrated Josepha Luisa, the heroine of a correspondence 
between herself and a notorious judge,t which was printed at 

• " Qtjoi qu'en dise Aristote, et sa docte cabale, 
Le tabac est divin, il n'est rien qui I'egale ; 
Et par les faineants, pour fuir I'oisivete, 
Jamais amusement ne fut mieux invente, 
Ne sauroit-on que dire ? on prend la tabatiere ; 
Soudain a gauche, a droit, par devant, par derriere ; 
Gens de toutes fajons, eonnus et non connus, 
Pour y demander part sont tres bien venus, 
Mais c'est peu qu'a donner instruisant la jeunesse, 
Le tabac I' accoutume a faire ainsi largesse ; 
C'est dans la medecine un remede nouveau : 
II purge, r^jouit, conforte le cerveau ; 
De toute noire humeur proniptement le delivre ; 
Et qui vit sans tabac n'est pas digne de vivre, 

O tabac, 6 tabac, mes plus cheres amours ! " 

Le Feslin de Pierre. 
■j- Manuel Lorenzo Vidaurre y Encalada. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 271 

Philadelphia, in 1823, under the title of Cartas Americanas. 
He is portrayed in that work as a second St. Preux, and she as 
another Nouvelle Heloise. He now holds a distinguished place 
under the government, and she, though known to be the mo- 
ther of some of his children, and sister of his wife, is seen at 
the theatre, and every where with the haiit ton! The passion 
which suggested the correspondence, no longer exists ; yet 
neither of them is ashamed of its publicity. On the contrary^ 
he has attempted to defend his letters, as well as the senti- 
ments contained in them, by assuring us that they were pub- 
lished for the instruction of his countrymen ! He even pro- 
posed distributing copies, to be left on the tables at the various 
caf6s, as tracts are piously scattered in the United States ! If 
all who are in similar circumstances in the " City of Freemen," 
were banished from its social world, fashionable society would 
be obliterated ! 

It is very generally acknowledged, that the Limanas exer- 
cise an almost unlimited sway over the gentlemen, whether 
husbands or "cort6jos" — cavalUri servinti. Yet there is a 
most remarkable inconsistency in the habits of the people, 
where ladies are concerned. An unmarried lady is never per- 
mitted to go out, without being attended by the mother, an 
old aunt, a married sister, or some chaperone ; nor is she ever 
left alone with a gentleman, unless he be an admitted suitor. 
Now, it has often puzzled me to divine how young ladies thus 
closely watched, can possibly find an opportunity to listen to 
the secret communications of their lovers. But it is this very 
watching which makes them such adepts in intrigue ; " Love 
laughs at locksmiths." The saya y manto is the talisman 
which saves them from every difiBculty. In that dress neither 
husbands nor brothers can easily recognise them, and to make 
the mask still more complete, they sometimes substitute a ser- 
vant's torn saya, which precludes all possibility of discovery j 
their only danger is in being missed from home. 

This strict surveillance is at once removed by matrimony. 
The married lady enjoys perfect liberty, and seldom fails to 
make use of her privilege. Intrigues are carried on to a great 



272 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

extent in the fashionable circles ; but, I think there is more 
virtue and morality to be met with in the second ranks. 

The ladies in Lima seldom nurse their children, but confide 
their tender offspring to the care of the females of the various 
castes. An infant scarcely attains a month old, before they 
commence feeding it with broth, which is an abundant reason 
why the adult population have feeble constitutions, and are un- 
able to bear cold. In the months of June, July, and August, 
though the thermometer does not sink below 55° F., men 
never think of walking the street in the morning or evening 
without being enveloped in the Spanish cloak. 

Families even of moderate fortunes live in splendid style, 
and dress as extravagantly as their means and credit will allow. 
They keep a host of useless servants. There must be a nurse 
for each child, a porter, a calesero, a waiter, a dueiia or house- 
keeper, and two or three blacks in the kitchen and stables. 
The lady must have a calesa, coute qui coute. When reverses 
compel the family to dispose of the calesa, which, being the 
last article parted with, indicates the near approach of ruin, a 
part of the bargain always urged is, that the purchaser shall 
alter the paint that it may not be known ! 

Considering the little industry among the ladies, and their 
want of taste for reading, it may be reasonably asked, how 
they get through the twenty-four hours. A fashionable belle 
rises at daylight, hastens through her prayers at the nearest 
church, and returned home, retires again to slumber till about 
nine or ten o'clock. About eleven she takes her breakfast 
alone, which is frequently purchased in the street; few families 
assemble at this meal, each one eating at his own hour, and 
whatever his appetite may suggest. A gentleman told me, that 
he did not see his wife before dinner from one end of the year 
to the other. In some houses, each one receives a certain 
weekly stipend for his maintenance from his father, which is 
spent at the cook shops about the city. The family cook sel- 
dom prepares any thing, except hot water for making choco- 
late or mate. 

After breakfast the lady smokes a cigar or two, and strolls 
about the house with her hair hanging over her shoulders, dress 



NOTICES OF PERr. 273 

loose, and slip-shod, in silk stockings, occasionally rubbing her 
teeth with a slender root, the end of which is chewed till its 
fibres separate and resemble a brush. Notwithstanding that 
they are fond of bathing in the warm months, ladies seldom 
think of washing their faces before breakfast in the winter, 
but substitute the corner of a damp towel. They allege, that 
washing in the morning is attended with the great risk of 
causing ague, which prevails more or less throughout the year. 
A lady once asked her physician, in my presence, whether 
she might wash her hands and face in a little warm water; "I 
have not washed either," said she, " for seven days, and they 
feel extremely greasy and uncomfortable !" 

About midday commences the important business of dress- 
ing the hair, which occupies an hour. That finished, the shoes 
are pulled up at the heel, a large shawl is cast over the shoulders, 
and the lady, (particularly if married), is ready to receive any 
visiters she can expect on ordinary occasions. The hour before 
dinner is spent in covering " mechas," or in some trifling needle- 
work, unless there be a new dress to make. Dinner and the 
siesta take up the afternoon till five or six o'clock, when she 
dresses to walk out or to receive her friends. Such is the 
usual employment of ladies of great as well as of moderate for- 
tunes. Those of the second class are much more industrious, 
and are very skilful with the needle. 

Notwithstanding, the Limanians of the same family have 
much more respect, if not affection for each other, than is com- 
monly manifested by Americans. The younger brothers and 
sisters are always obedient to their elders ; men established in 
life often refuse to perform trifling acts, on the ground that 
they may be disagreeable to their fathers or mothers, and I 
have seen widows who had returned to the homes of their pa- 
rents after their husbands' death, quite as scrupulously obe- 
dient as children of three or four years old! "Honor thy 
father and thy mother, that thy days may be long in the land," 
is a precept strictly observed. The ties of consanguinity are 
stronger, and are more widely extended than with us ; cousins 
are almost as near as brothers — in fact, they are quite as affec- 
tionately treated and considered. This habit of feeling may be 
35 



274 THREE YEAUS IN THE PACIFIC. 

entirely owing to the law of primogeniture, which enhances 
the consideration of the first born ; the republican shift-for- 
yourself principle, is unfavorable to the cherishing those clanish 
feelings of propinquity which we meet in ancient families. 

Gambling is the bane of Lima society. Though many laws 
have been made against it, " monte al dao" is played, often to 
a ruinous extent* Gaming houses are kept secretly in almost 
every part of the city, which are open thrpughout the day and 
night. The very legislators and officers of the police coun- 
tenance them by their presence. The President's chaplain 
told me that General La Fuente, the late Vice President, had 
won ^50,000 during the first year he was in office ! 

Besides the monte houses, the cafes and hotels are furnished 
with billiard tables, to which the young men habitually resort 
to, play, and the very poorest of the populace have their pecu- 
liar games. A mode of gambling which I have occasionally 
seen in the plaza and streets, illustrates the universality of this 
passion. Two fellows purchase two small boxes of sweet- 
meats, and placing them at a short distance apart, lie down 
near, to watch ; and, betting that a fly will alight on one be- 
fore it does on the other, agree that whoever the insect favors 
shall take both boxes ! 

Should this be deemed an exaggerated sketch of Lima man- 
ners and customs, I beg the reader to look at the work of Ta- 
ralla,t which is admitted by all Limanians to be a true picture, 
but rather highly colored. I am sorry to differ so much from 
the high authority of the Edinburgh Encyclopedia, as quoted 
by Mr. Benjamin Morrell, Jr. ; but I must say with Rousseau, 
"c'est ma part de dire la v6rite, mais non pas de la faire 
croire !" 



• The law of 1822, prohibiting gambling, gives one half of the money 
found on the table to the informer, and the other to the public treasury, 
j Lima por Deutro y Fuera. Madrid, 1798. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 275 



CHAPTER X. 

Sunday in Lima — Books — Mach^ro — Misturas — Puchero de Flores — Street of 
peril — Scene on the Alameda — Cock-pit — Theati'e. 

Sunday, in Lima, is devoted to pleasure and recreation by 
all classes. In the morning, the plaza is the centre of attrac- 
tion. About nine o'clock, the tables under the portdles present 
a most motley display of small wares, old prints, old books, 
new books — chiefly translations from the French, and French 
editions, among which are usually seen, Spanish versions of 
several of Scott's novels, and the Spy by our countryman 
Cooper. Sometimes the plays of Calderon are severed from 
the binding, and sold singly, to accommodate purchasers. 
There are cases and tables -loaded with the smoker's appara- 
tus ; — segarreros, macheros, mechas, flints and steel ; and 
others with German toys, rough hardware, and imitation jew- 
elry. 

Every man in Lima carries in his pocket the means of 
lighting his cigar. The segarrero has been already described. 
The machero consists of a tube about three inches and a half 
long, and a half inch in diameter, made of gold or silver. 
Through it is strung a match, which is composed of spunk, 
{artSmesia Chinensis) brought from Guatamala, put up in 
long rolls about a half inch thick and one or two feet long. 
This is cased with calico or silk ; sometimes beautifully em- 
broidered, or sometimes braided with various colored ribbons. 
The ornamenting of " meehas" falls within the province of 
the belles, who present them, perfumed with sweet smelling 
roots and gums, in compliment to the beaux. The end of the 
match which is fired, passes through the tube, and is hooked 
by a chain to a button or plug, which, excluding the air, ex- 
tinguishes the fire after it is no longer required. To the other 
end, is appended a silken cord tastefully knotted at the ex- 
tremity, or instead, a gold chain terminated with a small figure 



276 ~THREE TEARS IN THi^ PACIFIC. 

of a fish or animal. The mach6ro costs from one to forty 
dollars, and even more, according to the material and orna- 
ments, which sometimes consist of a ring of diamonds round 
the middle ! Without the steel and flint, however, the appa- 
ratus is incomplete. The steel is frequently embossed with 
gold and silver in some fanciful sketch on one side, and on the 
reverse, the name of its owner. The steel alone is sometimes 
worth ten dollars, and in "old times" flints sold at from 
twenty-five cents to a dollar each ! 

From nine until one o'clock the portdles are thronged with 
people, moving in opposite directions ; some are buying toys 
and books, and others are there to see and be seen. The gay 
uniforms of the officers, the sombre garb of priests and friars, 
the learned black coats of students and judges, the new and 
glossy saya and gay black eye peeping from behind the manto, 
the shrivelled uncovered face of age, no longer stirred by joy, 
but still arrayed in manto and saya of her younger days, the 
disguised belle, the blind mendicant in tatters, led by a squalid 
tjhild, the mulatto wench with hair frizzed and sprinkled with 
jasmine flowers, the barefoot Indian, the sandalled negro, and 
liveried black, all figure in the moving mass. 

Near the eastern end of the portdl sit the " mistureras" or 
flower venders, selling nosegays both to belles and beaux. A 
<'mistura" consists of flower petals of various kinds, orange 
blossoms, sweet cherimoya buds, and jasmine, tied in a piece of 
plantain leaf Here also are sold a small kind of apple, and an 
orange, (naranja de Quito), which are wreathed over with 
small fragments of cinnamon and cloves by the ladies, and sent 
as complimentar}'^ presents to their friends. They are called 
<* manzanltas ambareadas." One of these apples, with two or 
three capulies and as many cherries, placed in apiece of plan- 
tain leaf about one-quarter of the size of a sheet of foolscap 
paper, and sprinkled with chariiomile flowers, violets, aromas, 
{a yellow, sweet scented flower), margaritas, (a species of lily), 
-with a sprig of sweet basil, formed what was anciently called 
a " puchero de flores," which cost from two reales to three dol- 
lars, according to the season. Young ladies frequently make 
•^^ pucheros de flores," sometimes perfuming them with incense 



NOTICES OP PERU. 277 1 

and sweet gums, and distribute them to their visiters. The 
presentation of " manzanitas ambareadas" and flower petals is 
quite common, but the ^'puchero" is somewhat out of date. 

Formerly, a row of women sat in front of the cathedral, and 
sold the materials for the " puchero" at wholesale ; and in front 
of them another row, having small tables on which they com- 
pounded the " misturas" and pucheros, in a serious, but at the 
same time, pleasant mood. From the great price demanded 
for the puchero, not unfrequently a half doubloon, this alley 
of florists was called "la calle de peligro" — street of peril — 
alluding to the great danger which the pockets of the young 
beaux ran of- being exhausted on nosegays for their sweet- 
hearts. * Even in these days of reform and cheapness, I have 
seen a dollar paid for a single rose, and half that sum for a 
dahlia, to decorate a lady's head ! 

In the afternoon, one of the alam^das is resorted to by the 
better part of the population, for the pleasure of the promenade. 
La Alameda de los Descalzos, a pleasant walk of a quarter of a 
mile in length, is the most fashionable. On each side there is a 
double row of trees, with a path between them. The centre ave- 
nue is about sixty feet broad, shaded by the almost interlock- 
ing branches on each side, having at equidistances the founda- 
tions of several unfinished fountains. This alam(§da derives its 
name from a convent of Franciscans, standing at one end of it, 
called El convento de los padres Descalzos. These barefoot 
fathers maintain, by begging, a public table, where the poor 
are free to dine on wholesome and substantial food every day 
of the week. Not far from the alam^da are the celebrated 
baths of Piedra Lisa, which are much visited during the sum- 
mer months, both by ladies and gentlemen. 

About five o'clock, calesas are seen standing beneath the 
trees. Their fair occupants, in gala attire, sit and behold the 
passers-by, enjoying at the same time a quiet airing, to say no- 
thing of the gratification of being gazed on and bowed to by 
their friends. The young cavaliers display their steeds and 
horsemanship to the eyes of the fair ones. On the side walks, 

* Mercurio Pemano. 



27S THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC- 

either seated or promenading, are hundreds of sayas y mantos, 
watching the scene before them, while gentlemen scrutinize 
the cautious glance of that single eye, and arching black brow 
contrasting with the forehead, to discover if possible who the 
mistress may be, but she laughs at their curiosity, and sets it 
at defiance. 'He who cannot admire a beautiful woman with 
all his five senses, cannot estimate the greatest and most per- 
fect work of nature. It is thrilling to your man of sensibility 
to behold the soft motion of these "tapadas," as those are 
termed who walk with only one eye discovered. There is an 
ease and grace in the step not easily portrayed ; such sylph- 
like steps, such figures, such laughing eyes, 

" And such sweet girls — I mean such graceful ladies, 
Their very walk would make your bosom swell ; 
I can't describe it, though so much it strike, 
Nor liken it — I never saw the like !" 

At sunset, the whole crowd streams towards the city. The 
bridge is lined with gentlemen waiting to catch one more 
glance from some eye, which they fancy their penetration has 
discovered. It is vain; the mask is too perfect. The stream 
pours into the portdl, and thence diffuses itself through the 
several streets leading from the plaza. 

Those who do not take an airing in the alameda, generally 
resort to the Coliseo de los Gallos, or cock-pit. It was erected 
in 1762; and in 1790, paid to the government annually for a 
license, 7,010 dollars, which were distributed among various 
institutions of charity and education in the city. 

The Coliseum is an amphitheatre, with an arena fifty feet in 
diameter, surrounded by nine benches rising one behind the 
other, and above, by a tier of twenty-nine galleries or boxes, 
(including that of the judge,) supported on wooden pillars, 
arid accessible by flights of stairs on the outside of the building, 
which stands in a large patio. Opposite to each other are doors 
opening into the arena, by which the fowls are introduced. 
The price of admission is two reales, but the seat is an extra 
charge of one real in the pit, and four in the boxes.* 

• In 1822, a decree was issued, abolishing the cock-pit, and annulling the 
contract of its manager with the Spanish government, which was dated 1804. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 279 

It is said that public cock-fighting owes its origin to the ex- 
pedition of Themistocles against the Persians. On that occa- 
sion, he exhorted his army to fight for their country with the 
valor and indomitable spirit displayed by two contending cocks. 
To commemorate the victory of their great captain, the Athe- 
nians devoted one day every year to exhibit the battles of these 
birds. The custom passed to Rome, and on the days of exhi- 
bition, criers went through the streets shouting Pulli pugnant. 

On Sundays and holy-days, in Lima, though not announced 
by a town crier, it is generally known that pulli pugnant, and 
a large part, of the population attends without a summons. The 
hour of exhibition is four o'clock, but before that time, the 
seats are usually crowded by people of all kinds, for all classes 
delight in this sport. The judge, who is an alcalde, takes his 
place in his box, the guards at the doors are all attention, the 
" servid&r," with a row of gafts before him, takes his seat be- 
neath the judge, and the "corred&res," or criers of bets, enter 
the arena. For a moment, conversation ceases. Two fowls are 
brought in, from the opposite doors, and, after holding them 
up to the spectators, their heads are ceremoniously, but rudely, 
rubbed together. The silence is broken. One "corred&r" 
cries, " ^ Quien va en el pardo ?" — who goes on the gray ? An- 
other shouts, " I Cuanto en el Colorado?" — how much on the 
red ? Then such a Babel-like hum breaks out in the pit and 
boxes, that it is difficult to understand any thing that is said. 
The corred&res shout still louder. The ladies in the boxes make 
signs with their fingers ; and the gentlemen call aloud to differ- 
ent people at the same time. A corred&r understands a lady ; 
** Si Senorita ! and looking in another direction, and striking 
his uplifted left arm, with two fingers of his right hand, cries 
again and again in a rapid voice, *' Media onza en el pardo — 
^ quien quiere media onza en el pardo?" — A half doubloon on 
the gray-; — who wishes a half doubloon on the gray? 

Another lady makes a sign. ** Bueno" — understood, cries a 
corred&r. At the same moment another is crying "two doub- 
loons on the red ; who bets two doubloons on the red ?" In the 
meantime the attendants are securing to the birds the gafts, or 



280 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

rather slashers, which are three inches long, a quarter of an 
inch wide, and slightly curved. 

Sufficient time having elapsed, the judge rings a small belly 
and the noise and confusion are succeeded by order and silence. 
Then each attendant walks to the servid&r, and turns the back 
of the fowl towards him. He examines the slasher, and, find- 
ing it properly secured, runs his thumb over its edge, to be 
certain of its keenness. Then it is sheathed in leather, and the 
birds are allowed to make a few flies at each other, while still 
retained in the hands of their respective attendants. The 
sheaths are now removed, and the cocks are set down at oppo- 
site sides of the ring. All is silent. The valiant bird scratches 
the earth, looks proudly round, and, seeing his adversary, 

" treads as if, some solemn music near. 



His measured step were governed by his ear : 
And seems to say — "ye meaner fowl give place !" 

He flies to the conflict. If not decided at the first onset, the 
hum of assertion and dispute again begins, and increases with 
the excitement, till it becomes as noisy as before ; both sides, 
like politicians before an election, certain of coming ofi" victo- 
rious, loudly ofier to increase the bets, and thus strengthen 
their opinions. But at last one of the combatants falls dead, 
and decides the matter beyond dispute. The judge rings, and 
if not too much wounded, the victorious cock gives a trium- 
phant crow, and flaps his wings. 

The corred&res are now seen in every part of the pit, and 
in the boxes, collecting the losings, and paying the winnings,, 
from which they deduct, as the fee of their service, a medio 
from every dollar. The noise of talk still continues ; some are 
eulogizing the victorious bird, and others dispute with the cor- 
red&res about the bets. In the meantime, the fowls are carried 
to the servid&r, who removes the slashers, and cleans them of 
blood, by drawing them between his thumb and finger, before 
he lays them down. Both fowls are carried out of the arena,, 
and others brought in, and the same scene is repeated. 

Sometimes the conflict is decided at the first fly ; I have 
seen both birds fall dead from the slashers entering the braia 



NOTICES OP FERTT. 281 

or some other vital part. Again, the fight endures several 
minutes, and both fall, exhausted by the loss of blood. 

The sums bet are almost incredible. I have heard of fifty 
onzas ('^850,) being risked on a single battle. Usually, how- 
ever, the bets run from one to a hundred dollars. 

Sunset is the signal for concluding the sport ; as the crowd, 
with pleasure written on their countenances, pours into the 
street, they are met by the venders of lottery tickets, and the 
almost ceaseless cry of *w — ^r — te. The neighborhood of the 
cock-pit is distinguished by the unusual number of cocks te- 
thered by a leg to the door of almost every house. 

In the evening the theatre is the grand attraction., It stands 
in the rear of the convent of St. Augustin. Its exterior is 
not distinguished from any of the neighboring dwellings. The 
interior is shabby, and generally filled with fleas, and badly 
lighted. It has three tiers of boxes, and a large box fronting 
the stage for the President and the ofiicers of the government. 
The boxes are separated from each other by board partitions, 
and rented by the season, the tenant furnishing it with chairs. 
The pit seats have backs, and are numbered. The entrance to 
the boxes is by stairs on the outside, which lead to corridors 
upon which the boxes open. 

The ladies appear at the theatre dressed with taste and ex- 
travagance, but the arrangement of the boxes is such, that 
their fine figures and beautiful eyes do not appear to advantage. 
In the pit, women go disguised, or rather with their faces con- 
cealed with a shawl folded over the head in such a way as to 
hide all but one eye. Between the acts, the pit appears as if 
it were filled with fire flies, from the scintillations of the ma- 
cheros ; all the men commence smoking so soon as the curtain 
drops. Boys, with trays of sweetmeats, circulate through the 
pit and the corridors of the boxes, crying, or rather vociferat- 
ing, "el dulc6ro," or "el caramelero," while others, with 
glasses of water, cry " un vaso de agua." From the earliest 
times, decrees have been issued, both by the Viceroys and 
Presidents, against smoking in the theatre, but to no purpose. 
Even the old ladies retire to the back of the boxes to enjoy a 
few whiffs during the intervals of the play. A half dozen dirty 
36 



283 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

soldiers are stationed in different parts of the pit, to enforce 
order and prevent smoking, but the latter is so difficult a task, 
that rather than run against the current of public opinion, they 
join in the practice. 

The orchestra is generally very good, and sometimes excel- 
lent ; during the period that the opera company remained in 
Lima, it was much improved. The players are rather below 
mediocrity, with one or two exceptions. Lately, an actress 
from the Madrid boards, named Samaniego, has been here, and 
were she not so very large and advanced in years, would cer- 
tainly be an interesting player, particularly in tragedy. Her 
children are also considered good. The actresses are generally 
fat, shapeless, uninteresting creatures, who follow the prompter 
in a most monotonous tone. The top of the prompter's cap 
is seen moving, as his head turns to follow the lines of his 
book, just above a wooden hood placed in the centre of the 
stage ; and his voice is heard above all. There is one of the 
actresses who sings very well, yet I am assured that she is to- 
tally ignorant of music, depending altogether upon the correct- 
ness of her ear. 

The plays generally represented, have the fault of a too pro- 
tracted dialogue, with but little action, and are barren in plot. 
The tragedies are wretched. I do not mean that all Spanish 
tragedies are so, but allude to those represented in Lima. 
There is one lately written by a native, founded on the early 
history of the conquest, which possesses considerable merit. 
The best part of the entertainment is in the farce or "sainete," 
— pieces of one act, in which some ludicrous incident in low 
life is presented. These are filled with proverbs, in which the 
language abounds, and with humor, though too frequently of 
a vulgar and indecent kind. There is one entitled El Santo, 
which is what the Spanish term "mui gracioso." A worthy 
wife is represented as receiving visits of rather an improper 
kind, from the sexton of the parish church, and in order to 
conceal her lover, on the sudden arrival of her husband, he is 
disguised and mounted on a table, where he assumes the atti- 
tude of a saint. The husband enters, and finds his wife very 
piously kneeling before it. Seeing her devotion, he joins her 



NOTICES OF PERTT. 283 

in prayer, and then asks how the saint came there, and gets a 
most miraculous account of its appearance in the house. The 
husband runs out to assemble the village to carry the pretended 
image in procession, and in the mean time, the wife and saint 
discuss the means of getting free from the difficulty ; but the 
husband returns so suddenly, that the saint has not time to 
assume his position, but kneels on the table. The village 
troop assemble, and place candles in the saint's hands, and carry 
him around in procession. They at last discover the imposi- 
tion by the entrance of the curate, who recognises in his saint- 
ship no other than the sexton. Then all fall to beating and 
maltreating him, and applying all kinds of epithets, producing 
most immoderate laughter in the audience. 

Though a censor was appointed in 1822, by San Martin, to 
watch over the morality of the stage, and prevent any repre- 
sentation that might be favorable to royalty or tyranny, the 
Lima theatre is far from having any claims to perfection in 
this respect. On particular occasions, fire works are exhibited 
in front of the theatre, just as the audience leave it. 

Such are the amusements in Lima, on Sundays and religious 
holy-days. 



CHAPTER XL 

Bull-bait— Plaza del Acho. 



About half past two o'clock on a Monday afternoon, in 
December, people of all classes were to be seen pouring from 
the plaza into the street that leads over the bridge to the suburb 
of San Lazaro. The tailor left his thimble, the cobbler deserted 
his awl, the donkey of the water carrier enjoyed rest for a 
time, the collegian threw aside his book, the workshops were 
closed, the merchant left his store, the lady gave up the si6sta, 



284 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and the president of the republic joined in to fill up the living 
stream, that moved towards the Alameda del Acho. Towards 
that point rolled gay calesas, accompanied by gaily dressed 
equestrians ; the street was thronged with mulattoes and ne- 
groes, tapddas and priests — all going to see "los toros" — the 
bulls ! 

Along the street leading to the Alameda, armed lancers from 
the president's guard, were stationed about a hundred yards 
apart, gazing quietly on the passing crowd, with hands folded 
over the pommel of the saddle, and lance resting on the foot and 
reposing against the shoulder. Great earthen jars of chicha 
were leaning against the trees, here and there, from which ne- 
gresses and mulattoes, bedizened with jasmine, were pumping 
through great canes, "the nectar of Peru," and dispensing it 
to groups of the lower orders, standing around them. The 
sounds of harp and guitar, and fandango-footing, streamed from 
houses in the vicinity. It was a heartfelt holy-day, for all class- 
es delight in the spectacle of bull-baiting. 

The Plaza del Acho, which is enclosed in a square, is a large 
amphitheatre, capable of containing in the boxes, and on the 
benches which surround it, rising one above the other, not less 
than twelve thousand persons. The boxes and benches are sup- 
ported on brick pillars, and are accessible by narrow stairs 
from the outside. The arena is about four hundred feet in dia- 
meter, surrounded by a barrier seven feet high, through which 
are horizontal slits a foot broad, opening into the pit beneath 
the benches. In the middle of the arena, just far enough apart 
to allow a man to pass between them, are several posts planted 
in the form of three rays diverging from a centre. At one point 
are a large and a small door, side by side, opening into the pen 
where the bulls are kept, and over them is the box of the Pre- 
fect of Lima, who presides over the exhibition, and bestows 
the rewards on those who distinguish themselves in the fight. 
Opposite, but a little to the right, is a large box, occupied by 
the president and his suite, and to the left is a large door through 
which the slaughtered bull disappears from the arena. 

About a quarter before three, the place seemed full, yet peo- 
ple were still pouring in. The ladies appeared in their usual ex- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 285 

travagant style of dress, and the tapddas or cyclop beauties 
were numerous in every direction. The motley assemblage, 
which we had seen in the street, now occupied the benches. 
A busy hum of conversation arose continually from the multi- 
tude ; and above it bawled the " dulc6ro," with his tray of 
sweets, the " almendrero," with his comfits, the " caramelero," 
with his bons-bons. Then the " aguad&r," with pitcher and 
glass, cried ever and anon, " un vaso de agua" — a glass of water. 
The " segarr6ro," proclaimed '' segarros de mi amo, que los 
hace bien" — my master's cigars, he makes them well. Occa- 
sionally this fellow paused in his walk, and holding the fingers 
of his right hand to his mouth for a moment, smacked his lips 
as if tasting something delicious, and, bowing as he swept away 
his hand, ejaculated in a tone horribly nasal, " que cosa tan 
rica !"— how exquisite ! Other negroes, with trays of square 
packages of boiled corn, resembling homony, done up in plan- 
tain leaf, were crying, "maiz bianco, bien caliente !" — white 
corn, very hot ! 

In spite of the discordant hum, and out-of-time cries of those 
fellows who sell trifling sweets and sugar plums to the crowd, 
to amuse its excitement, (which must be spending itself on 
something,) those in the arena appear perfectly calm and uncon- 
cerned. The matad6res, and capead6res on foot, with their 
red cloaks flung carelessly over one shoulder, so as to discover 
the pink or green silk jacket, and bright yellow breeches, 
trimmed with jaunty bows of gay ribbon, and with the hat set 
knowingly on one side of the head, sauntered about the ring , 
smoking cigars. The rejonead&res and capead6res on horse- 
back, armed with short spears, 

" In costly sheen and gaudy cloak array'd," 

slowly walked their animals over the ground, or awaited pa- 
tiently the commencement of the sport. The mayors of the 
plaza, better mounted than the rest, occasionally dashed after 
a half dozen ragged urchins, who were playing, and chasing 
each other about the arena. 

At last the "desp6jo" or clearing of the field commenced. 
Part of a well dressed regiment entered the arena, headed by 



286 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

a fine band in a Turkish uniform, playing a quick step. They 
marched and countermarched, and performed several military 
evolutions, which ended in a sham fight with a second party, 
that attacked them from several points at the same time. The 
orders were given by blast of trumpet and tap of drum. This 
part of the exhibition was highly interesting, and very credit- 
able to the troops. 

Precisely at three, the president and staff" entered his box, 
and were received by the troops with presented arms. The 
Turkish band took its place in front of the president's box, 
and the troops separated, and springing over the barrier, min- 
gled with the crowd on the benches. 

The rejonead&res and capead&res on horseback, preceded by 
the mayors of the plaza, and followed by the matad&res and 
capead&res on foot, marched slowly round the whole circle, 
bending low before the boxes of the president and prefect, and 
saluting the spectators generally as they passed along. This 
ceremony ended, the matad6res and capead&res on foot distri- 
buted themselves in various parts of the arena; the mayors 
took a position of safety, and the rejonead&res and capead&res 
on horseback, holding their spears by the end in the right 
hand, the points down, trotted gallantly up to the prefect's 
box and halted. In the mean time, a caricature figure of a 
belle, constructed of paper and reeds, was placed not far from 
the centre of the ring. The din and buz of the multitude were 
for a moment hushed. A trumpet sounded a charge, and a 
rocket whizzed high and exploded in the air. Expectation 
was mute. The den flew open, and a noble bull, having a 
cloth ornamented with tinsel and ribbons stitched to his back, 
sprang forth. He stood for a moment gazing fiercely right 
and left, lashing his tail in the air, and pawing the earth; he 
wavered for an instant, then lowering his head, dashed at a 
rejonead&r, who, with admirable skill, flirted a short red man- 
tle in his eyes, and saved himself and horse from the bull's 
horns. Foiled in this attack, the enraged aniinal opened his 
eyes for a second, (bulls always close them to attack), and 
rushed at a capead&r, who received him on the point of his 
spear ; thrusting him three times in the neck, he turned the 



NOTICES OF PERU. 287 

bull, and received the applause of the assembled multitude ; 
then galloping to the prefect's box, held out his cap and ob- 
tained a rouleau of four dollars, which was tossed into it as his 
reward. Blood trickled over the bull's broad chest and down 
his legs, as he stood wavering in which direction to make his 
next attack. Now the capead6res on foot approached, shak- 
ing their red cloaks and stamping and shouting in defiance. 
He rushed at one of them, and bore off the cloak in triumph 
on his long, sharp horn, amidst shouts of " que buen lance, 
que buen lance !" — a good feat, a good feat ! Next, his furious 
attentions were bestowed upon the paper belle, and he met a 
warm reception, for she was a "fire ship" of rockets and 
squibs, which burst about his ears in a hundred irregular ex- 
plosions, enhancing his violence and rage. Shouts, laughter, 
and clapping resounded from all sides. He turned impetu- 
ously upon a rejonead&r, who poised his spear and drew up 
his horse to receive the charge. His aim was true ; he struck 
just behind the skull, and the bull rolled lifeless on the ground, 
amidst the deafening shouts and plaudits of the spectators ! 

Besides the public approbation, the rejonead&r received a 
reward of three rouleaus, of four dollars each, from the hands 
of the prefect. 

So soon as the bull fell, the band of hautboys and squeaking 
clarionets, stationed near the prefect's box, ceased, and that in 
the Turkish costume struck up the national air called La Sama 
cueca. Four horses that ''spurned the rein," bedecked with 
waving plumes, pranced into the arena under the guidance of 
two postillions. A mulatto held the traces, and leaned back- 
wards with all his strength, as he was dragged forward. An 
axle with two low wheels or trucks, was secured under the 
bull's head, and the horses were attached. Under rapid ap- 
plications of whip and spur, they sprang forward, and with a 
great sweep disappeared with the load from the ring. 

The pools of blood were carefully swept over with sand, and 
another paper figure, representing a jackass playing a guitar, 
was placed on the spot where the belle had been so unceremo- 
niously treated. Again the trumpet sounded, and again a 
rocket was fired. Another fierce animal bounded forth. The 



288 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

capead6res and matad&res shook their red cloaks to invite him 
to attack ; but they danced backwards as he trotted towards 
them. At last he rushed upon one, and received a slight wound 
in the shoulder from the sword of a matad&r, which served to 
inflame his fury. He gored the musical jackass, and struck 
such notes as neither jackass nor guitar ever before produced. 
Wild with rage, he darted upon a rejoneador, and received a 
spear wound in the neck, from which the blood flowed freely. 
He evidently suffered pain, but did not complain, though he 
stood at bay. The capead&res on foot, and the matadores ap- 
proached, shook their cloaks, stamped, and shouted, but he 
heeded not. Small darts loaded with lead were showered upon 
him, and hung quivering in his hide; this roused him, and 
with a well directed aim he rushed upon "a. light limbed ma- 
tad&r," who received the attack dexterously upon his cloak ; 
the attack was renewed, but the cloak quit the hand, and quick 
as thought the long blade was sheathed in his broad chest. 
His career was arrested ; he staggered once, but recovered ; in- 
stinctively he separated his feet to gain a broader and firmer 
base ; his limbs trembled ; he hung his head, and making an 
effort to cough, belched forth a torrent of gore ; the next in- 
stant he reeled, and his feet kicked in the air ! From the 
moment the wound was given, the multitude was silent; no- 
thing was heard except the discordant and tearing notes of the 
hautboys, but when he fell, the welkin rang with applauding 
shouts, '^buen lance, buen lance," and the band struck up El 
Chocolate, another of the Peruvian airs. The matad6r received 
his reward, the car was brought, and the carcass whirled swiftly 
away. 

The next feat exhibited, excited deep interest. A large 
wooden spear, with a broad iron head, was placed near the 
door of the toril or den, and inclining upwards towards it. A 
stout mulatto, gaily dressed, laid flat upon the end, which rested 
against d. point d^appui, and in that position awaited the bull. 
The trumpet and rocket signal was given. All was silent. The 
door opened, and the bull pitched at the prostrate mulatto, who 
guided his spear so that the point struck him full between the 
eyes, and passing through his head, entered several feet 



NOTICES OP PERU. 289 

into his body, from which it required the force of three men 
to extract it ! The animal fell dead. The spectators were de- 
lighted, and even renewed their plaudits when the mulatto 
held out his cap for the reward. 

A fourth bull was received by " matad&res de punta"— ma- 
tad&res armed with short, broad-bladed dirks, resembling in 
form a bricklayer's trowel. They played him for a long time ; 
now daring his attack, now avoiding it. Showers of darts 
were thrown, and his hide bristled with them, like that of a 
porcupine. The paper image was attacked, and wrought him 
to the highest pitch of fury ; he ploughed the ground with his 
horns, and bellowed in an agony of rage. He pursued a mata- 
d&r, and was so near tossing him, that he ripped up the back 
of his gaudy jacket. He then wheeled upon a rejonead&r, and 
plunged his horn into the horse's abdomen, and made an effort 
to toss; but by some means the poor animal was extricated. 
The rider struck his sides with his spur, and the entrails gushed 
from the wound ! A second blow gave an awfully hollow sound, 
that might have been heard, at that moment, over the plaza, 
for it was still as the grave. His bowels poured out upon the 
ground, and were trampled by his own hoofs, as he sprang 
forward, and cleared the infuriate bull, whose attention the 
matad6res had attracted to themselves ! The horse was led out 
of the arena, and I had the satisfaction (poor indeed !) to learn 
that his pains were ended in a half hour by death ! The bull 
rushed with furious impetuosity upon the matad6res, yet he 
did not escape unscathed. A matador, with'Well turned limbs, 
threw aside his hat and cloak, and advanced deliberately to re- 
ceive his attack. The broad blade of the '< punta" glittered in 
the sun for the instant, while the swift arm, with certain aim, 
struck it to the spinal marrow, just behind the ears. Lightning 
could not have been more suddenly fatal ; the bull dropped 
dead! "Viva Espinosa" — the name of this famed matad&r, 
was shouted from all sides. Neither the danger he had encoun- 
tered, the success of his feat, nor the deafening plaudits of the 
multitude, produced the slightest change in the calm expression 
of his countenance— it remained the same under every circum- 
stance. He gathered his cloak upon his arm, and with cap in 
37 



290 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

hand, walked leisurely to the Prefect's box, for the reward he 

had so dexterously won. 

One bull was encountered by six short-legged Indians, who, 
armed with light spears, extended themselves on the ground, 
in front of the den, to await his coming. He hurled his huge 
weight among them, splintered several spears, and overturned 
five Indians, in pursuit of the sixth. The excitement was very 
great, for it was doubtful whether he would escape. Now he 
gained a little, and then he lost ; he seemed to be out of breath ; 
all feared that he would fall ; the bull's horns appeared to be 
touching his back ! '* Corre, corre muchacho !" broke through 
the silence from a hundred mouths, and thus encouraged, his 
duck legs moved faster, and in longer strides, till at last, pant- 
ing and breathless, he dodged between the posts in the centre 
of the ring. By this time his companions had risen, and, armed 
again with spears, placed themselves in a new position, to re- 
ceive another attack. The bull, for an instant, looked wildly 
at the Indian he had pursued, bellowed in disappointment, and 
turned upon his expectant enemies. But when he drew near 
to them, they threw away their arms, and fled, to the great 
amusement of every body. The animal attacked every one 
who opposed him, in quick succession, and received a wound 
from every hand. One matad&r attempted the feat of Espinosa, 
but missing his aim, the "punta" was tossed high in the air, 
and both man and beast escaped unhurt. From long exertion 
and loss of blood, the animal seemed to be exhausted, yet he 
could not be approached with impunity. He stood pawing the 
ground and flirting his tail, but would not, any longer, attack 
with fury ; therefore, he afforded no more sport. The Luna — 
a crescentic knife fixed at right angles on the end of a long 
pole — was brought. They tried for a long time to get behind 
him, before they succeeded in hamstringing his hind legs — 
when they did, the poor brute still fought, and kept them at 
bay, and even when the sinews of his fore legs were cut with 
the luna, he attacked the matad&res on his stumps. He at last 
fell, under the repeated blows of the dirk and sword of the ma- 
tad6res, and was slowly expiring, when one of the many blows 
reached the spine, and ended his torments. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 291 

The next exhibition was rather ludicrous. When the door 
Was opened, a harlequin attired negro, with his face smeared 
with blue and white, entered the arena mounted on a bull's 
back. His only means of retaining his seat was by holding fast 
to a piece of wood lashed across his horns. His task was an 
arduous one, for the bull reared and plunged in every possible 
manner, to free himself from his encumbrance ; but the rider 
was encouraged to hold fast, as the bull was his reward, if he 
succeeded in safely reaching the middle of the ring. This scene 
afforded a great deal of mirth, and the negro won the bull, after 
several very narrow escapes from being thrown. 

The parting rays of the setting sun had begun to tinge the 
snowy peaks of the Cordillera, which seemed the signal for 
leaving. The president and suite left their box, and the fash- 
ionables in different parts of the circle followed his example. 

A guard of about fifty horsemen, armed with sabres and 
lances, was formed round the president's carriage, and a num- 
ber of officers crowded to attend him from the door of the 
plaza. The carriage was of European manufacture, with silver 
mountings, and drawn by four splendid black horses. General 
Gamarra soon made his appearance, hat in hand. He is tall, 
rather thin, of a swarthy complexion, black eyes, deeply sunk 
in their sockets, heavy brow, black whiskers and mustaches, 
and possesses a courteous military air. He wore a general's uni- 
form of blue deeply embroidered in gold, and red pantaloons 
with broad gold lace down the outer seams. Over his feet 
were drawn horseman's boots rising above the knee, armed 
with large gold spurs. His cocked hat was edged with white 
feathers and crowned with three ostrich plumes, arranged in 
the succession of the colors in the flag — white between red. 
When he mounted his seat, the officers threw themselves into 
their saddles, and the coach flew through the alameda followed 
by the guard at full gallop, the pennons of their lances flutter- 
ing in the air. Their dress is a white jacket and red panta- 
loons, cut full about the hips and narrow at the bottom. The 
cap is blue cloth, with a long bag-like top of red terminating 
in a tassel, that hangs over one side. Every one wore large 
mustaches. 



292 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

As the president passed, the cal6sas that had been standing 
to view the passing concourse turned, and slowly followed to- 
wards the city. Seated along the walls were long files of ta- 
padas, 

•' Skilled in the ogle of a roguish eye, 
Yet ever well inclined to heal the wound ; 
None through their cold disdain are doomed to die, 
As moon-struck bards complain, by Love's sad archery — " 

They lingered to see the last of the crowd. When we reached 
the Independence square or plaza, the fresco tables were al- 
ready lighted. 

The excitement of the scenes at the Plaza del Acho and 
along the alameda, produced in me and some of our party 
most severe headachs. Notwithstanding the cruelty of the 
sport, there is an agreeable excitement at the bull-bait, from 
the great concourse of people, and the endless variety of dress 
and character that present themselves for observation. In- 
deed the ladies say, that were it not for the " concurrencia," 
they would not witness a diversion '<tan barbara." 

Previous to the revolution, bull-baits were seen in almost 
every village throughout Peru, at least once every year. For 
the purpose, the plaza was fitted up for the exhibition. This 
sport caused the death of many Indians in the interior, who 
were either killed by the bulls, or died from excesses in Aguar- 
diente and Chicha. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 293 



CHAPTER XII. 

Nacimi^ntos — Christmas Eve — Christmas — Ride to Chorillos — Salteaddres — 
Bathing — Harbor of Chorillos — Callao — La Presidenta — Carnival — Mira- 
flores — Magdalena. 

About the season of Christmas, those wealthy families in 
which there are children, form with dolls and toys a repre- 
sentation of the birth of our Saviour, which is placed in some 
convenient apartment, where it may be visited by their friends. 
These are termed familiarly, ^' nacimientos" or births. Some- 
times mass and prayers are said before them ; and one of the 
common pastimes of thb season is to pay visits from one to the 
other, all over the city. This has at least the merit of being a 
beautiful method of instructing the youth in that portion of the 
history of the son of G-od. 

On Christmas eve, or *< noche buena," as on almost all holy- 
days, the plaza becomes a scene of mirth and amusement. 
The fresco tables are more numerous, as well as the fires of 
the women frying fritters and fish ; and the irons of those who 
make barquillos are plied more actively than ever. Stalls 
are placed along the Portdl de Escribanos, loaded with a va- 
riety of cooked poultry, picdntes, stews, sausages, and pu- 
cheros. All classes make merry ; the mendicant and miser, 
the formal lady and woman of light manners, the old and the 
young, allow their bosoms to expand with joy ; yet the pious 
stand aloof from all that tempts the appetite in the plaza, till 
past midnight, indulging only in ices and iced drinks. Lights 
were twinkling in every direction, though the moon and stars 
shone as bright as day. 

The great altar of the cathedral was lighted with hundreds 
of candles, and the choir was full of instruments and voices. 
The naves were crowded through the whole night with wo- 
men sitting or kneeling on the pavement in saya y manto, 
while the priests celebrated mass decorated in cloaks of gold 



294 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and silver Lama. At midnight, Te Deum laudamus was 
chanted, the bells rang a merry peal, and rockets were fired 
from the church steps. At this signal, numerous parties and 
groups that had been wandering about the square, anxiously 
waiting the hour to break their fast, seated themselves at dif- 
ferent tables, and fell to work on the good things that had been 
spread before them during the evening. From that time till 
daylight, for the saying is, "nadie duerma en noche buena" 
— nobody may sleep on Christmas eve — the plaza is a scene 
of feasting; while in the houses of the higher classes, suppers 
are spread at twelve o'clock, and the remainder of the night 
is spent in dancing and gambling. 

Christmas day is devoted to amusement, and as it is sum- 
mer, many parties are made for rides to the country, and some 
spend the whole holy-days at Miraflores or Chorillos. The 
alameda in the afternoon is thronged with people, and in the 
morning presents a scene similar to that of a Sunday. At 
night there is an exhibition of fireworks, provided at the ex- 
pense of the cabildo. 

During the summer months, from December to April in- 
clusive, many paseos or excursions of pleasure are made to 
different points in the neighborhood of the city. Most of the 
wealthy families resort to Chorillos or Callao for the benefit of 
sea bathing. Those gentlemen who are detained in the city 
by business during the week, generally leave Lima on Satur- 
day afternoon, and remain with their families until Monday 
morning. 

In the month of January, I accompanied a party of gentle- 
men to Chorillos, and passed several days in that place. We 
set off about three o'clock on Saturday afternoon, arrayed in 
ponchos, and large straw hats to protect us from the sun, and 
armed with pistols to secure us against the " saltead6res," or 
highwaymen, that at this season generally infest the road. 
They have been less numerous, however, during the last two 
years, than formerly. These saltead&res are a most ungenerous 
set of thieves ; for, not satisfied with horse, purse, and valuables, 
they generally leave their victims without any other covering 
for their skins than their shirts ! I know, however, of an in- 



NOTICES OP PERU. 295 

stance of generosity on the part of one gentleman of the pro- 
fession. He stopped a wealthy merchant on his way to Lima 
from Chorillos, and after relieving him of his watch and purse, 
ordered him to dismount. The merchant remonstrated, and 
argued that it would be a serious prejudice to his business to 
be detained from Lima, but offered to deliver the horse the 
next day, without asking questions, to any person who might 
be sent for him. The terms were accepted, and the merchant 
was permitted to continue his journey. The next morning the 
saltead&r called for his horse, which was honorably delivered ! 
It must be recollected, that a departure from the terms of the 
bargain would have been at the peril of life, in case of a second 
rencontre. 

We sallied out at the Chorillos gate, upon a straight road, 
flanked on either side by high mud walls, which from the 
powerful reflection render the road excessively hot. The 
light color of the road, well sprinkled with pebbles, served to 
increase the oppressiveness of the heat. We found every body 
going in the same direction with ourselves. Here we over- 
took troops of borricos, laden with fruit and vegetables for the 
Chorillos market, there carts laden with beds and household 
furniture of some migrating family ; again, parties of gentlemen 
dressed like ourselves, and now we came up with two or three 
jackasses that had trotted on ahead of their companions, lying 
down by the way under baskets of fruit, waiting with serious 
and dejected countenances for the rest of the drove. Now 
and then we passed a party of gallindzos and dogs, feasting 
amicably on the carcass of a borrico or mule that had expired 
by the wayside. 

The surrounding country was parched and cheerless, with 
here and there one of those vast earthen mounds called huacas, 
the remaining monuments of a race even more ancient than 
the children of the sun. 

After a ride of five miles, we came in sight of the fane of 
Miraflores, and another mile carried us beyond that quiet vil- 
lage. Along the tapias, as the low mud walls are called, were 
seated rows of ladies with their servants, amusing themselves 
with observing the passing groups. They wore Manila hats, 



296 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

tied under the chin with black ribbon, the rim being free, and 
the hair braided down the back. Amongst them were some 
acquainted with gentlemen of our party, whom they saluted 
with, "adios! adios ! Caballeros." 

We had scarcely cleared Miraflores, when we saw the low 
houses of Chorillos about two miles off, nestling under the 
Morro Solar or headland of Chorillos, and the broad Pacific 
expanding to the view. It was now near sunset ; the mild 
breeze from the ocean kissed our heated foreheads as we gal- 
loped into the pueblo. We met parties of ladies and gentle- 
men, strolling about in every direction, to enjoy the cool air of 
the expiring day. 

After ablution in cold water, we seated ourselves, and like 
Sancho Panza were felicitating ourselves in not having en- 
countered any perils on the road, when a gentleman came in, 
with half serious face, and began with, " Malditos sean los de 
la policia que no limpian el camino de esos bribones de saltea- 
d6res!" — "Curse those police officers, for not clearing the 
road of these villainous highwaymen !" 

" Que hai ! que hai ! Don Ignacio?" — "What is the matter, 
what is the matter, Don Ignacio ?" asked two or three of the 
party. 

" Puez, Sefiores, me pillaron dos de estos caballeros en la 
mitdd del camino, de aqui a MirafloreSj y si no fuera por la 
oscuridad de la noche me hubidran descubierto la desnudez h. 
todo el mundo !" — " Yes, Gentlemen, two of those cavaliers 
caught me on the road, half way between here and Miraflores, 
and had it not been for the obscurity of the night, would have 
exposed me naked to the whole world !" 

" Que dices ?'' — " What sayest thou ?" 

*' Puez, Senores, es verdad, me dejaron fresco en cueros — 
aun sin un hilo de mi camisa!" — "It is true, they left me 
cool in my skin — without even a thread of my shirt !" 

"Caramba!" exclaimed one of the ladies. 

"Jesus!" cried another — Peruvian ladies ejaculate ! 

"Que oigo, por Dios !" — "What do I hear, for God's 
sake !" said a third. 

"Gua! que lisos!" — "What impertinence!" said a fourth. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 297 

"Que fresquito vino usted k Chorillos!" — "You came a 
little fresh to Chorillos !" observed a gay young lady, and the 
gentlemen laughed outright. Finding so little sympathy 
among us, Don Ignacio stalked out of the roo , muttering, be- 
tween his teeth, vengeance on all salteadores, wishing that the 
devil might warm them all, and the police in the bargain. 

The evenings in Chorillos are passed at tertdlias, where 
gambling high at monte-dao, and dancing, are the only amuse- 
ments. All Sunday is passed in this unhallowed manner ! 

The ladies bathe twice and three times every day, in the 
sea; in the morning before breakfast, about one o'clock, and 
again at sunset. They descend the high and precipitous hill 
on horseback, or on foot, and dress in little huts made of flag 
mats, kept on the shore for the purpose by Indians, who charge 
a real for each bath. They wear long flannel robes, and go 
into the water with Indians, who are entirely naked, with the 
exception of a handkerchief tied about the hips. Many of 
the ladies are quite expert swimmers, and all are passionately 
fond of sea-bathing. 

Chorillos, in one respect at least, is superior to any of the 
watering places that I am acquainted with, resorted to in our 
country ; all formality is thrown aside, and every body thinks 
only of comfort and amusement. The ladies stroll about with 
their hair hanging down the back, with grass hats, and the 
gentlemen are dressed with short white jackets, and are not 
encumbered with cravats, but substitute a narrow black ribbon. 
Nothing but dissipation and gambling occupy the time, except 
the few moments devoted every morning to counting the ro- 
sary. On Sundays, the pueblo is more lively than on any other 
day, from the great concourse from the city ; and it is then only 
that ladies pay attention to the toilet, to appear at the balls or 
large terttilias given at night. / 

It is a remarkable fact, that even during the winter, when 
Lima is covered with a dense fog and "gdrua," or fine drizzle, 
and the streets slippery with mud, the sun is shining warm 
and clear at Chorillos. It is probably owing to the south-west 
winds blowing the vapors past the Morro Solar against the high 
hills, where they collect and form clouds, which undergo a 
38 



298 ^ THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

leakage over the city instead of dissolving in rain. This is 
probably an electrical phenomenon, which is not yet well un- 
derstood. The same fact occurs occasionally at Callao, though 
the distance of either place from Lima does not exceed eight 
miles. 

During the war of the revolution, while Rodil occupied the 
castles of Callao, Chorillos, though only a small Indian town, 
with some few indifferently built houses, which are termed 
ranches and " barrdcas," was the port of Lima. The harbor is 
a roadstead, only protected by the Morro Solar : a heavy swell 
is constantly rolling in from the southward, the anchorage is 
not good, the landing is bad, and vessels ride very uneasily at 
their moorings. 

I spent the month of February at Callao. The place was 
probably more gay than usual, in consequence of the president 
and his lady being there to take advantage of the sea-baths. 
The tertulias were similar to those at Chorillos, though not so 
numerously attended, for neither General Gamarra nor his lady 
is very popular. They were attended, of course, by a set who 
are more or less dependent on their pleasure for office. 

The presidenta, as she is titled, is rather a large and fine 
looking woman, but of too much embonpoint for beauty. She 
has a high, expanded forehead, and an intelligent face. Her 
manners are masculine, and far from graceful. Her accom- 
plishments are those of a man. She shoots a pistol with great 
accuracy of aim, wields the broadsword with much dexterity, 
and is a bold, undaunted rider on horseback. Her chief amuse- 
ment at the tertdlias is playing chess. She never dances. She 
is a native of Cuzco, and daughter of a Patriot general, and it 
may be said, that she was literally educated in the camp. She 
is now about thirty years of age, and is said to be rather a shrew 
in disposition, and pays great attention to politics; indeed, 
some affirm, that General Gamarra is indebted to her talents 
for retaining the presidency so long as he has. 

Pic-nic parties are sometimes formed on the point beyond 
the castles, but the place is entirely without the shelter of 
trees. The chief attraction to that quarter is the fine situation 
for bathing. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 299 

On the seventeenth day of February 1833, commenced the 
merry season of carnival. The sports consist in dashing scented 
water on each other, amongst those of the better class, but 
with the others, whole buckets full are thrown, and when the 
person is well wet, the face is smeared over with flour, some- 
times colored with indigo. 

I passed part of the month of April at Miraflores, amusing 
myself with rides round the country, and feasting on delicious 
grapes. All the houses have gardens attached to them, where 
are grown great varieties of beautiful flowers. A geranium 
grows to a large bush, and is looked upon almost as a weed. 
Amongst the bulbs, which are numerous, are the margarita, a 
white flower, the amancaes, which is yellow, and the flor de 
la pila. This takes its name from its resemblance to a fountain. 
The flower is beautifully white, and the monopetalous corolla 
has six long slender digits, which fall in gentle curves from 
its edge, like so many little streams of water. It springs up 
on the margins of drains and ditches, all along the Peruvian 
• coast. 

The ladies in Miraflores pass two or three hours of Saturday 
afternoon seated on the tapias along the Chorillos road, ob- 
serving the passing concourse. One half of ^' pascua" or lent 
expired on the 28th of April 1832. This day is celebrated 
amongst the rabble by feasting and dancing. Parties with 
guitars and harps pass through the streets at night, visiting 
the best houses, dancing and singing, till bribed by a gra- 
tuity to leave. At midnight, a grotesque mask, representing 
an old woman, leaves Lima mounted on a borrico, accompa- 
nied by a crowd of negroes and boys, shouting and singing and 
ringing bells. The party or procession stops long enough in 
Miraflores to waken the population, and then continues on to 
Chorillos, where the old woman is met and kindlj'^ received 
by an old man, quite as grotesquely dressed as the old lady 
herself. The two open the dance in a lascivious minuet, and 
then the frolic is continued till daylight. This feast is termed 
La vieja, or old woman.' She is quite as much feared by the 
children as old Chriskingle himself, for the old people are wont 
to say, that La vieja is coming at four in the morning to carry 



300 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

off the pascua, and if they are no*^ good boys and girls, she will 
take them away too. The only explanation of the festival that 
I could obtain from the curate was, " es solamente para acor- 
darse, de las muchas pascuas que han pasado" — <'It is only to 
call to remembrance the many lents that have passed." 

There is a pleasant road from Miraflores to Callao, passing 
through a small village called Magdalena. This place, which 
has many gardens attached to it, is resorted to by some of the 
better and quieter part of society. The Liberator, Bolivar, occu- 
pied a house there for some weeks, while in Peru ; it is a more 
pleasant summer retreat than either Miraflores or Chorillos. 
The road passes amidst small cultivated farms, and is shaded 
in the afternoon by the walls that surround them. 

Another frequent paseo is to Lurin, in the valley of Pacha- 
camac, where there are extensive remains of the temple of 
that god. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

St. John's day — Amancaes. 



Amongst the great holy-days of Lima is the festival in ho- 
nor of St. John. It falls on the 24th of June, when a beau- 
tiful yellow flower, called the amancaes (Narcissus amancaes) 
is in full bloom, which circumstance has given name to the 
day. About three miles to the northward of the city is a high 
hill, forming with two others a deep vale or gorge, which, 
from the number of these flowers growing on its sides, is called 
the valley of the amancaes. 

Early in the afternoon, all the world, in every variety of 
costume and equipage, began to move over the bridge, through 
the suburb of San Lazaro and the Alam6da de los Descalzos, 
towards Amancaes. Passing from the alam^da, the road is shut 



NOTICES OP PERU. 301 

in by high mud walls, enclosing fruit and flower gardens, 
which fill the soft air with their odors. Here moved cal6- 
sas, filled with ladies and children gaily dressed, and their 
heads decked with amancaes and dahlias ; ladies on horseback, 
managing their spirited animals in a most masterly style ; ca- 
valiers and officers in gay dress and gorgeous uniforms ; ne- 
gresses in jaunty calico gowns, mounted on donkeys ; negroes 
on foot, or mounted on sorry asses or mules, all crowding to 
the scene of festivity. The whole living stream was animated 
by the mutual smiles and salutations of the dames and cava- 
liers, the hearty laugh of the less refined, and the coarse joke 
and noisy hilarity of the plebeian mob. When we reached the 
vale, we found the soil bare, save where the hill sides were 
sprinkled with yellow patches of the amancaes. Booths were 
erected of mats in different parts of the vale, arid surrounded 
by various groups, enjoying themselves in dancing and singing 
to the sound of harps and guitars. Some of the ladies on horse- 
back, moving from rancho to rancho, attracted our attention ; 
they wore the Manila hat, white pantalets, and poncho, as have 
already been described. They seemed to delight in their skill 
in horsemanship, for a practised eye might detect them rein- 
ing in their animals, while at the same time the spur was 
pressed quietly into their sides, causing them to prance and 
curvet over the ground. The cavaliers were no less dexterous 
in the management of their steeds, as they squired the ladies 
with " heedful haste," and assisted them to the various refresh- 
ments ofiered at the ranches. 

In one rancho were two Africans, dancing the " sama cueca" 
to the music of a rude harp, accompanied by the nasal voices 
of two negresses jauntily dressed, and the hair frizzed out and 
ornamented with flowers. One was seated on the ground, 
beating on the body of the instrument in time with her palms. 
The dancer was dressed in white, flounced to the knee, with 
a bright colored cotton shawl tied round the hips, so as to 
shorten the gown very considerably. The arms were bare and 
shining in pure black ; in one hand she held a white handker- 
chief, which was ever and anon flourished in the air, while 
the other sustained her dress behind. Her hair, like that of 



302 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

all the negresses, was frizzed out at each side, and sprinkled 
with jasmine and amancaes, and a high crowned Guayaquil hat 
sat square on the head. Her companion in the dance wore full 
bottomed cinnamon color breeches, open at the knee, with 
silver buttons, over white stockings and drawers, seen at the 
opening embroidered in a gay pattern, a white jacket, so short 
as to show his shirt between its bottom and the waistband of 
his bragas. He wore also a high crowned Guayaquil hat. He 
was rather advanced in years, his skin was black as ebony, 
and his face was rather thin. Both were smoking and shining 
in the true African gloss. The figure consisted in advancing 
and retreating from each other, in a short shuffle in time to the 
music, and occasionally performing some most lascivious move- 
ments, to the great gratification of the lookers on. 

While these were dancing, those standing round were drink- 
ing pisco, and talking and laughing in the gayest manner. 

There are two other dances of a similar character, called el 
chocolate and el zapateo, only difi'ering in the accompanying 
song. Though lascivious and vulgar in the eyes of Europeans, 
these dances are performed, (with some modification, how- 
ever,) at the public balls and tert(ilias. Manners and vulgarity 
are conventional in every country, and those of one should not 
be set up as the criteria of those of another ; a Frenchman will 
pick his teeth with his fork, and wipe his lips on the table 
cloth, which with us is considered a departure from good 
breeding. We should not, therefore, condemn any customs, 
however revolting, unless we find them intrinsically immoral, 
whatever may be our opinion of correct taste in these matters. 
Towards sunset, the crowd began to move towards the city. 
The hilarity was increased, and many were sufficiently ine- 
briated to be thrown from their animals, with great sang froid 
passing all ofif as a joke. The serious cast of countenance pre- 
served by the ladies and cavaliers, was curiously contrasted 
with the boisterous mirth of the vulgar mob, as the whole re- 
turned towards the city loaded with bouquets of the amancaes. 
Amancaes is not only visited on the day of St. John. During 
the whole season, from St. John's day till the close of Septem- 
ber, in which the flowers are in bloom, the valley is resorted 



NOTICES OF PERU. ' 303 

to every Monday by a large number of people, when similar 
amusements are offered as on the holy festival, though the 
scene is not so extensive nor so joyous. 

The feast of St. John is variously celebrated in various coun- 
tries. In Northumberland, Scotland, Wales, and Ireland, the 
festival is celebrated with bonfires by the young people. Not 
many years ago, there was a stone pulpit in the University of 
Oxford, from which an annual sermon was preached ; and to 
make it resemble the preaching of St, John in the wilderness, 
it was fenced round with green boughs. Googe has described 
the whole custom in the following verses : — 

'• Then doth the joyful! feast of John 

the Baptist take his turn. 
When bonfiers great, with loftie flame, 

in every towne doe burne ; 
And young men round about with maides, 

doe dance in every streete, 
TVith garlands wrought of motherwort, 

or else with vervain sweete, 
And many other flowers faire, 

with violets in their handes, 
Whereas they all do fondly thinke, 

that whosoever standes, 
Andthorm) the flowers beholds the flame, 

his eyes shall feel no paine. 
When thus till night they danced have, 

they through the fire amaine, 
With striving mindes doe runne, and all 

their hearbes they cast therein, 
And then with words devout and prayers 

they solomnly begin. 
Desiring God that all their ills 

may there consumed bee 5 
Whereby they thinke through all that yeare 

from agues to be free. 
Some others get a rotten Wheels, 

all worne and cast aside. 
Which covered round about with strawe 

and tow, they closely hide : 
And caryed to some mountaines top, 

being all vuith fire light. 
They hurle it downe with violence, 

when dark appears the night : 



304 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Resembling mtich the sunne, that from 

the Heavens downe should fal, 
A strange and monstrous sight it seemes, 

and fearefuU to them all : 
But they suppose their mischiefes all 

are likewise throwne to hell. 
And from harmes and daungers now, 

in saftie here they dwell."* 

Young women were in the habit, and still are, of <' trying 
their fortunes," on mid-summer's eve, and by superstitious 
processes summoned to their presence the shades of their fu- 
ture husbands. Gay, in one of his pastorals, alludes to this 
custom. 

" At eve last mid-summer no sleep I sought. 
But to the field a bag of hemp-seed brought ; 
I scattered round the seed on every side. 
And three times in a trembling accent cried: — 
♦ This hemp-seed with my virgin hand I sow, 
Who shall my true love be, the crop shall mow.' 
I straight looked back, and if my eyes speak truth. 
With his keen scythe behind me came the youth." 

The following translation of a ballad, sung by the maidens 
on the Guadalquivir, when they go forth to gather flowers on 
the morning of St. John, describes the custom observed in 
Spain. 

Come forth, come forth, my maidens, 'tis the eve of good St. John, 
It is the Baptist's morning that breaks the hills upon ; 
And let us all go forth together, while the blessed day is new, 
To dress with flowers the snow-white wether, ere the sun has dried the dew. 

Come forth, come forth, &c. 

Come forth, come forth, my maidens, the hedgerows all are green ; 
And the little birds are singing the opening leaves between ; 
And let us all go forth together, to gather trefoil by the stream, 
E'er the face of Guadalquiver glows beneath the strengthening beam. 

Come forth, come forth, &c. 



• Every Day Book, p. 846. 



NOTICES or PERU. 305 

Come forth, come forth, my maidens, and slumber not away 
The blessed, blessed morning of St. John the Baptist's day ; 
There's trefoil on the meadows, and lilies on the lea. 
And hawthorn blossoms on the bush, which you must pluck with me. 

Come forth, come- forth, &c. 

Come forth, come forth, my maidens, the air is calm and cool. 
And the violet blue far down ye'll view, reflected in the pool ; 
The violets and the roses, and the jasmines all together, 
We'll bind in garlands on the brow of the strong and lovely wether. 

Come forth, come forth, &c. 

Come forth, come forth, my maidens, we'll gather myrtle boughs. 
And we all shall learn, from the dews of the fern, if our lads will keep 

their vows : 
If the wether be still, as we dance on the hill, and the dew hangs sweet 

on the flowers. 
Then we'll kiss off the dew, for our lovers are true, and the Baptist's 

blessing is ours. 

Come forth, come forth, my maidens, 'tis the eve of good St. John, 

It is the Baptist's morning that breaks the hills upon ; 

And let us all go forth together, while the blessed day is new, 

To dress with flowers the snow-white wether, ere the sun has dried the dew.* 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Dia de Santa Rosa — ^Birth-day customs — Life of Santa Rosa. 

The 30th of August is kept as a festival of the first order in 
Lima, in honor of Santa Rosa, the patroness of the Indies. At 
the corners of the plaza were erected temporary altars of saints, 
dressed gayly and richly ; and from the balconies in the streets 
through which the procession passed, were hung large ban- 
ners of silk and satin, beautifully embroidered in gold, or 



• Every Day Book — 24th June. 
39 



306 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

silver, or silk. All the world wore holy-day attire. At 
twelve o'clock, the procession in honor of the saint formed 
at the convent of Santo Domingo, and proceeded slowly to the 
plaza. The saint, dressed in a rich cloak of gold lama, and 
crowned with flowers, was placed on a high platform or table, 
called an <' anda," which was borne on men's shoulders. In 
former times, the anda was covered with sheets of silver. Fol- 
lowing the standard of the order of Santo Domingo, (of which 
Santa Rosa is a member), were two lines of priests, each bear- 
ing a large wax candle, although it was noonday, chanting aves 
as they advanced. Next followed, in the centre of the street, a 
negress, crowned with flowers and gaudily attired, carrying 
in her hand a censer of silver filigree, in the form of a bird, 
and close after her moved the anda. Then were two or three 
priests, followed by a can&nigo bearing the host in a rich 
custodium of silver, and shaded by a silken canopy borne 
by four priests. Next came two files of church dignitaries, 
in cloaks of gold and silver lama, wearing horned bonnets 
of black ; and after them, the civil and military officers of 
the government, in gay uniforms. There was the hero Nico- 
chea, and the veteran General Vivero, who has shown himself, 
during the whole struggle for independence, faithful to the Pa- 
triot cause, and unmoved either by bribes or threats. Then 
followed literary men and collegians, in black, with huge 
cocked hats and small-swords, bearing wax candles. The 
whole was closed by companies of infantry with a fine band, 
and a troop of cavalry. 

The procession moved slowly on, and when the anda reached 
the first altar, at the north-west corner of the plaza, it halted 
for a short time, while a few aves were chanted. A file of in- 
fantry extended round the sides of the square, to preserve a 
free space for the passage of the procession. The centre was 
crowded with people of all classes on foot, and long lines of 
cal6sas were drawn up in the rear of the soldiers. The balco- 
nies of the portdles were filled with ladies and children, and 
the steps of the cathedral were crowded with sayas and tap5- 
das. When the procession entered the plaza, the bells were 



NOTICES OP PERU. 307 

rung merrily, both at the cathedral and the convent qf Santo 
Domingo. 

When the anda reached the south-west corner of the por- 
tdles, the calesas that were drawn up along the west side of 
the plaza, drove over, and drew up on the south side, to gain 
a second view of the saint. After about an hour, the anda 
arrived at the side of the cathedral, and as it passed along, 
a shower of roses fell over Santa Rosa from a silken balloon, 
which had been purposely suspended over the street. At the 
moment the flowers fell, two or three pigeons, which had been 
confined in the balloon, flew out, to the great amusement of the 
crowd, who set up a long shout of admiration. The bells rang 
merrily, and a hundred rockets and squibs were set ofi" from 
the steps and towers of the church, and a salute of musketry 
was fired in the plaza as the saint entered. 

After Te Deum had been chanted, the procession moved 
slowly along another street, and returned back to the convent 
whence it started. 

So soon as the saint had entered the church, the venders of 
lottery tickets were seen wending their way through the 
crowd, with book and ink-horn ; and the venders of confec- 
tionary of various kinds also made themselves heard. 

All the ladies in Lima named Rosa, are prepared on this day 
to receive visits from their friends, who call to congratulate 
them on the anniversary of their birth day. Bouquets are sent 
as presents, with complimentary notes from the young gentle- 
men to the young ladies. In every house where there is a 
Rosita — the kinder term for Rosa — a table is set out loaded 
with fruits, flowers, and sweets of all kinds, and cordials and 
wines, to regale the numerous visiters. Those who are unable 
to call, send their cards. Thus the whole day is passed in 
gaiety and visiting, and the evening in tertdlia and dancing. 

The saint's day is generally the birth day, for when a child 
is born, it is usual to look into the almanack, and name it after 
the saint on whose day the event may happen; and when this 
is not the case, the saint's day is generally kept as the birth 
day, and is celebrated much after the manner above described. 

Santa Rosa was born on the very spot where her altar now 



308 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

stands, jn April 1586. With her birth the miracles of her life 
began. Her mother did not experience the same pains of travail 
as she did with her other children. She imbibed devotion and 
the sweet benedictions of grace from her mother's milk. Until 
three months old, she was called Isabel ; at that period of her 
life, a rosy blush appeared upon her face, so beautiful, that her 
mother and nurse, when caressing her, ever after called her 
Rose. Though christened Isabel, she was confirmed by the 
archbishop Torribio, (afterwards a saint), at five years of age, 
under the name of Rosa. Her young mind became scrupulous 
of the validity of the confirmation, and applied in prayer to 
the altar of Our Lady of the Rosary, in the convent of Santo 
Domingo, to have her doubts relieved. That sovereign lady 
not only approved of the name Rosa, but bestowed her own 
as a surname ; so that she was ever after known under the title 
of Rosa de Santa Maria. 

In her tender infancy, she manifested a most decided aver- 
sion to all the usual amusements of her age, avoided conversa- 
tion, was habitually silent, and much devoted to prayer. When 
scarcely five years old, she vowed eternal chastity, and conse- 
crated her heart and affections to Jesus ! This precious rose 
could not grow without thorns. The Lord caused great diffi- 
culties and obstacles to be thrown in her way, for the mother 
regarded her as a wayward child. She endeavored first by 
kindness to convince her of her folly, but finding it vain, she 
resorted to chastisement, and upbraided her with the epithet 
of hypocrite. She ordered her to adorn her person, and on one 
occasion, to wear a garland of flowers on her head, which the 
infant saint obeyed, but hid within it a number of pins, to mor- 
tify the flesh. Constancy triumphed over the importunity of 
her relatives, and the confessor obtained the mother's per- 
mission to allow the child of God to pursue the course of her 
own inclinations. 

From the time she had attained six years of age, till her 
death, she fasted three days in every week on bread and water; 
and when forced by her mother to eat, she mixed bitter herbs 
and gall, or ashes, in her food. She lived one year on bread 
and water taken once a day ; and once existed fifty days on a 



NOTICES OF PERU. 309 

single loaf and a glass of water. During passion week, her sole 
diet was five orange seeds a day ! 

When four years old, she was wont to pray with heavy 
weights on her shoulders, and later in life, in imitation of St. 
Dominique, she prayed in a garden, walking barefoot at mid- 
night, bearing a heavy cross on her back ! 

For sixteen years, her bed was strewed with sharp stones, 
and her head rested on a pillow of thorns. Besides, she con- 
stantly wore chains, and a crown of tin filled with nails, stick- 
ing inwards, concealed in her hair! She prayed twelve hours, 
and worked ten, every day, leaving only two for repose ! To 
keep off drowsiness during her devotions, she suspended her- 
self by the hair, so as just to allow her toes to touch the ground! 
In fact, it was wonderful to see the inventions to which she re- 
sorted for self mortification and humiliation. She was charita- 
ble to the poor, and performed the most menial offices for them 
when sick. 

Notwithstanding her extraordinary piety, she was averse to 
becoming a nun. At twenty, she yielded to the solicitations 
of her parents, to enter a monastery, and when on her way, 
she stopped at the convent of Santo Domingo, to prostrate her- 
self for the last time before her favorite altar of our Lady of 
the Rosary, On attempting to rise, she found that all her efforts 
were vain, till she promised to return home, and abandon for- 
ever the idea of taking the veil. 

At this time she was clothed with the third order of Santo 
Domingo, and became a beata. 

One day, while kneeling before the altar of our Lady of the 
Rosary, gazing on the image with the infant Saviour in her 
arms, she saw both smile. The lips of the Saviour moved, and 
said, "Rosa de mi corazon, sh tu mi Esposa.'' "Rose of my 
heart, be thou my spouse." Without any knowledge of this 
miracle, a brother made her a ring, with those very words en- 
graved upon it ! 

Holy Mary, the Empress of Heaven, often appeared to her, 
and frequently waked her, saying, " Levantate hija, levantate 
h. la oraci&n, que ya es hora oportuna." — « Rise daughter, rise 
to prayer, for now is the proper hour." 



310 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Rosa took care of the altar of our Lady of the Rosary, and 
kept it supplied with the sweetest flowers, cultivated with her 
own hands. She was careful that it should never be without 
wax candles, which she begged from her female friends. She 
also adorned the image of Santa Catalina de Serra, whenever 
it was carried forth in processions. This saint she had early 
adopted as her example, and endeavored to imitate through 
her whole life. 

Rosa was favored by the angels, with whom she was on 
terms of the closest familiarity (" estrechisima familiariddd ;") 
they were the faithful messengers of her celestial supplications! 

In 1615, a Dutch fleet appeared in Callao, and in conse- 
quence, the City of Kings was thrown into great consternation. 
The archbishop ordered the Holy Sacrament to be exposed in 
all the churches, and prayers to be ofiered up for the protection 
of the city. Rosa repaired to her favorite altar, for the same 
object. It was reported that the heretics were approaching. 
She placed herself before the altar, resolving to die a martyr 
in defence of the holy images of our Lady of the Rosary, and 
the infant Saviour. She rejoiced in the prospect of being soon 
translated to Heaven, and exhorted the females in the church 
to emulate her example. She was disappointed, for the Dutch 
sailed without landing; whether through the measures taken 
against them, by the archbishop, is not stated. 

Rosa wept and prayed for the many she saw around her 
heedless of the callings of the Lord ; and was distressed that 
the poor ignorant Indians should worship such a thing as the 
sun! 

The power to prophecy was also given to her. She foretold 
the building of the convent of Santa Catalina, and named her 
mother as amongst the first who would take the veil, all of 
which happened as she stated ! 

Her last illness was revealed to her four months previous to 
her death. Her disease was most excruciating and painful, 
but it was borne with Christian fortitude, derived from her 
life of penance and piety. She died at midnight, on the 
!84th of August 1617, in the thirty -second year of her age. A 



NOTICES OP PERU. 311 

pious lady saw her soul escorted to the regions of glory, by a 
multitude of angels ! 

So great was the rush made by the inhabitants of Lima, to 
obtain parts of her garments for reliques and amulets, that 
the viceroy set a guard over her body, to keep them oflf. 

She was buried in the chapter of the convent of Santo Do- 
mingo, and at the end of two years, the body was exhumed, 
and placed upon her altar. 

After her death, she appeared and spoke to several persons. 
Her reliques were effectual in curing the incurable, and even 
in animating the dead ! 

She was beatified in Rome, April 1688, and canonized in 
1671, as the universal patroness of all the Indies.* 

Miraculous as the life of Santa Rosa appears, the highest 
functionaries of the church, at that time, bear testimony to the 
facts stated; and no less than eleven holy confessors swore, 
that during her whole life, she never committed sin, or even 
had a sinful thought ! Yet there are not wanting, in the present 
day, persons malicious enough to doubt her sanctity and mi- 
raculous life, and even say that she was the most meretricious 
saint in the whole calendar ! 

On the 30th of August, the day on which the procession in 
honor of Santa Rosa takes place, a compendium of her life, 
(from which the above is extracted,) is sold in the plaza at a 
dollar a copy. It is a small duodecimo volume of 123 pages, 
containing the prayers of the novena, or nine days of devotion, 
and a rude picture of the saint, under which is engraved, *' A 
true likeness of Santa Rosa de Santa Maria." 

* Yida de la gloriosa Santa Rosa de Santa Maria de Lima. Lima, 1818. 



312 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Day of All Saints — ^Pantheon — Responses — Mode of burial — Obsequies — Col- 
lecting alms for masses — Day after All Saints — Funeral expenses — A patri- 
otic curate — Rapacity of curates — Cofradia or burying company — Marriage 
ceremony — Marriage fees — Difficult for foreigners to marry in Peru — Clan- 
destine marriage. 

November 1st — Dia de todos los Santos — Day of all Saints. 

The streets were quiet during the morning ; all business was 
stopped ; the living only directed their thoughts to the man- 
sions of the dead. The churches were all open, and many a 
beautiful saya entered and knelt before the altar of the patron 
saint, to breathe a salve for the rest of some departed friend. 

Nevertheless, the plaza, which smiles even when blood 
stains its stones, wore its holy-day appearance. The boton^ros 
were not seen ; their places were occupied by the tables and 
cases of the mercachifles, and their etalage of small wares. 
Officers in gay and costly uniforms, mustaches combed and 
head erect, sauntered up and down the portdles. Many a 
laughing eye glanced from under the manto, and many a heart 
inquired what eye it was, but in vain ; the silken dressed feet 
still moved with the light and measured step. The aguad6res 
disputed and laughed, and filled their water at the pila. The 
bells tolled, and misas ascended. The suertero still cried in a 
broken tone su — ir — /e, and the priests moved along and beg- 
ged alms for the repose of those departed, and their liberation 
from purgatory. 

About four o'clock in the afternoon, all the world were in 
motion towards the Pantheon — the common resting place of 
the dead. Before we reached the gate of the city, we were 
accosted by two women, sitting at a chapel door, who held out 
small silver plates, containing a few reales and medios ; with 
smiling faces they begged " un mediocito para mi Senora del 
Carmen" — a medio for my Lady Carmen. Near the gate was 



NOTICES OP PERU. 313 

a temporary altar, under a silken tent, where women begged 
for Santa Rosa. As we passed the pulperias at the different 
corners, we heard the sound of the guitar and song, and beat- 
ing of the rude drum. 

Beyond the city wall the concourse was great. Negroes on 
borricos, and negresses and women of the lower orders sitting 
astride sorry horses, hurried along and brushed by the more 
leisurely moving calesas, bearing some of the most beautiful 
women of Lima. The gay officers we saw under the portdleS' 
were mounted, and their horses pranced and curvetted over 
the road ; their heavily embroidered dresses glanced in the sun, 
and their gay plumes waved in the air. The new sayas (for all 
put on a new saya on the day of All Saints) strolled along the 
walls, and many a one was seated by the road side, gazing 
from the mask on the moving multitude. 

When we reached the Pantheon, which is about a mile from 
the city, the concourse became a dense crowd, and the road 
was blocked up with calesas. Very few ladies alighted from 
them, but remained to view the passing scene. 

We entered the resting place of the dead through a hall, in 
the centre of which is a cast (probably of plaster) of the body 
of our Saviour, in a sepulchre of glass. The whole is well ex- 
ecuted, and the wounds in the hands and feet are distinctly 
seen. Around this tomb knelt a number of females of all colors, 
and of all ranks in society, in new sayas, muttering salves for 
the dead. The poorest seemed to be the most devout ; perhaps 
poverty is favorable to religion, by removing from us, in a 
great measure, the temptations and vanities of the world ! 

We soon reached the open yard, and saw persons moving in 
every direction, examining the epitaphs and graves. What an 
admirable appointment is the day of All Saints, to bring us to 
a retrospection of the past, and remind us of our mortality I 
But, like many other well intended festivals of the Romish 
church, it has become a day of rejoicing, instead of mourning 
for our own and the sins of our deceased friends. 

Not far from the front of the building through which we 
entered, there is a hollow pyramid, made of canes, plastered 
over with mud, covering a deep and capacious vault, in which 
40 



314 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

are thrown those bodies, that are found, on exhumation, to be 
not yet entirely decayed. Around it are eight blocks or tiers 
of holes, adapted to receive the dead bodies of children ; they 
are connected to each other by a wooden railing, and thus 
form an octangular enclosure. 

About this spot stood several Fathers, in their church habili- 
ments, repeating responses for those who came to purchase. I 
observed one, and stood near enough to hear. Presently an 
Indian came up, and very respectfully taking off his Guaya- 
quil hat, requested <'un responso," ^Paraquien? — for whom ? 
asked the friar. For Francisca, replied the Indian. The priest 
folded his arms, and muttered the prayer pretty rapidly ; to- 
wards the close he clasped his hands mechanically, and rolling 
his eyes towards Heaven, came to the Amen. The Indian fol- 
lowed the holy father to the end, and when he had ceased, 
handed him a two real piece. The padre fumbled a little while 
to find the pocket that he wore under his robe, and then re- 
turned a real in change ; and the poor Indian walked off with 
the countenance of one who had fulfilled a pious duty — per- 
haps he felt that Francisca was relieved of a real's worth of 
purgatorial pains ! Several persons followed, and paid their 
real for responses. The padre discharged his duty towards 
them with the nonchalance and confident air of one experienced 
in the business ; when alone, he stepped near to one of his 
order, and whispering into his ear, both burst into a merry 
laugh. At almost every corner about the grounds, was a padre 
repeating requiescats for some poor mortal. 

The Pantheon walls enclose about two acres of ground, 
which is entirely destitute of trees or any thing green ; the 
surface is parched by the sun, and almost as white as ashes. 
It is divided into several squares, by low walls or curbs of 
adobes. In these are dug trenches, and the bodies of the poor, 

"Unknell'd, uncoffin'd, and unknown," 

are thrown promiscuously together, and the earth pitched in 
and pounded down. Almost every morning a half dozen are 
thus bestowed, for the sexton or undertaker waits till the dead 
house is filled before he buries ; being no more trouble in his 



NOTICES OP PERU. 315 

opinion to bury a dozen bodies than one. The wealthy, how- 
ever, are differently disposed of. On one side of the Pantheon 
are four tiers or blocks of holes, about five feet high, ranged 
in the form of a square, each of which is of sufficient capacity 
to receive a corpse and its coffin. From the roof of these holes 
being arched, the English term them ovens, though their office 
more closely resembles that of an ice house. The mouths of 
these stratified sepulchres are closed with a brass or copper 
plate, cemented round with mortar ; upon them are inscribed 
the name of the deceased, age, epitaph, &c. At the expiration 
of five or six years, according to the term for which the grave 
may have been leased, the bones are removed and burned. 
Those of the common people are exhumed on the morning of 
All Saints, and heaped up on the outside of the Pantheon walls, 
and burned at leisure. This custom renders the Pantheon all 
sufficient as the burial place of the whole population of Lima, 
and it will endure for ages. 

Funerals are usually celebrated soon after twilight, and are 
conducted with a good deal of pomp and solemnity. Every 
person carries a lighted candle, and the hearse is followed by 
priests chanting the requiem hymn. The corpse is left in the 
church all night, and interred the following day by the sexton. 
Several months afterwards, sometimes a year, the relatives of 
the deceased invite their friends to assist in the celebration of 
mass for the soul of the departed. The invitation runs thus : 

<'Jose Maria, Benito, Juan Antonio, sons of the late Don 
Juan Maria Fernandez (may he rest in peace), supplicate you 
to commend him to God, and be pleased to assist at the obse- 
quies that are to be celebrated for his soul on the 28th inst, 
at half past eight A. M., in the church of the cathedral, for 
which favor they will remain obliged." 
"Al Sor. Don ." 

^' The mourners will be received and taken leave of at the 
church." 

Formerly bodies were interred in the churches and con- 
vents ; though the Pantheon was opened in ISOO, it was not 
generally used till after the following preamble and decree 
were issued by San Martin. 



316 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

■<* Believing that nothing but an excessive prejudice, as ill 
suited to the h'ghts of the age, as it is prejudicial to the public 
health, can perpetuate the abuse of interring dead bodies in the 
temples consecrated to the assembling of the faithful, and to the 
worship of the Eternal ; 

" I therefore order, 

" 1st. That no body shall be buried outside of the Pantheon, 
be the defunct's rank in society what it may. 

"2d. That the bodies of nuns shall also be buried in the 
Pantheon ; and carried there with all the religious ceremony 
which ought to be observed towards the remains of any one 
who has been the spouse (esposa) of Jesus Christ. 

" 3d. That the present decree shall be communicated to the 
governor of the bishopric, and be inserted in the official gazette, 
that it may be complied with. 

" Given in the Protectoral Palace of Lima, October 25th, 
1821.* 

<'San Martin." 

By a subsequent decree, however, nuns are permitted to be 
"buried in the cemeteries of the monasteries in which they may 
have died ; and I believe the same privilege is extended to friars 
belonging to convents. 

Towards sunset, the concourse moved in a stream towards 
the city. Many an officer of gallant bearing, and many a 
gay cavalier, glanced at the beauty in the passing calesas. 
Many a negro sang some amusing ditty as he strode along, 
•mocking the solemnity with which the day was intended to be 
observed. The scene was almost as gay as that presented by a 
•crowd returning from a bull-bait ; there is little respect mani- 
fested towards the memory of the dead, after the requisite 
number of masses have been said to liberate them from the 
pangs of purgatory. 

At the corner of a church by which we passed, stood a table 
covered with a black cloth, bordered with narrow gold lace. 
•On the centre of it was a naked, wooden, half figure of a female 
in the attitude of prayer. On one side was a silver crucifix, 

• Coleccion de las leyes del Peru. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 317 

and on the other a silver plate, containing reales, medios, and 
quartillos, and on each corner was placed a human skull. Be- 
side the table sat a mulatto priest, under a broad brimmed hat 
rolled up at the sides, and a black silk habit. Beggary is con- 
ducted in a magnificent style in Peru ! I asked the priest what 
it all meant. He told me that the image was an "dnima," 
or departed spirit, in the flames of purgatory, and that the 
skulls were to remind us that we must all die — that the next 
day was to be devoted to saying masses for the dead, and he 
was collecting alms for that purpose. I asked if the skulls were 
of Indians. He replied, '<No ! they are from the Pantheon." 
And pray, said I, may they not be, nevertheless, Indian skulls 
— what is the difference? " Puez Senor esos son de Cristianos 
— los Indios no son !" — These, Sir, are Christians, the Indians 
are not." 

The second day of November (that following All Saints), 
masses were said in all the churches in the city for the repose 
of the dead. In the cathedral there was a procession of church 
dignitaries and priests, all dressed in cloaks of gold and silver 
lama, trimmed with black velvet; and each wore a black velvet 
cross over the back. In the church of the convent of San Fran- 
cisco, I saw a priest leave the choir where he was chanting 
mass, and step behind a pillar and say a response, for which 
he received a real from a negro who had beckoned him out ! 

In Lima, and indeed throughout Peru, funerals are attend- 
ed with great expense. The curates exacted so much on these 
occasions, that a law was passed, assigning the amounts that 
might be charged for each kind of interment. The articles re- 
quired that curates should bury the poor, and those who had 
been in any public employment, without any charge whatever. 
For a burial in the parochial or semi-parochial church, with 
the corpse present, the curate is entitled to sixteen dollars, in- 
cluding the vigil, mass, and two chanted responses, "cruz 
alta" or elevated cross, censer and chiming of bells ; but no 
mourner is required to observe this pomp, unless the deceasr 
ed may have so ordered in his will, or his heirs desire it. If 
the mourners should require more "posas," or passing bells, 
the curate may receive two dollars for each, but in no case can 



318 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the number exceed eight. If surplices are desired, which may 
not exceed eight, including two chanting ecclesiastics, he may 
receive for each two dollars. For a chanted burial without the 
parish, the charge is one third more. For a chanted mass, in 
honor of the deceased, at the end of the year, with a vigil also 
chanted, the curate is entitled to eight dollars. But these ho- 
nors, and <'cabo de ano," or end of the year, are not obliga- 
tory. If the parties desire a " novena," or nine days of chant- 
ed masses, with a vigil, ended with a single response, the cu- 
rate is entitled to two dollars for each. For the interment of 
a child, the charge is eight dollars ; but more, if accompanied 
with ringing of bells, and surplices. Natives, or Indians, are 
to pay nothing, unless they are known to possess property ; 
then they are charged one half. Such are the rates fixed by 
law, but they are not attended to, and the curates always en- 
deavor to impress upon the minds of the parishioners, how 
important these masses are to the rest of the defunct's soul ! 

Not long since the god-child of a lady died; the parents 
were too much reduced to give it that kind of burial which 
their former circumstances warranted. The god-mother gene- 
rously undertook the management and expense of the funeral. 
To ascertain what were the expenses and proper steps to be 
taken, she called on the curate of the parish. He told her, 
that the expense, if a Spanish child, would be forty-eight 
dollars; if a plebeian of the country, twelve dollars; and if be- 
longing to any one of the various castes, six dollars. Now as 
this was a Spanish child, the expense would be forty-eight dol- 
lars, and a mass the next day to deliver its soul from purga- 
tory, would be twelve dollars extra! She told him, that as 
infants' souls did not stop in purgatory, she supposed the mass 
would be unnecessary. " Puez bueno" — very well, said he, 
"if you choose to run the risk of it, the mass may be dispensed 
with, but the funeral will be not a quartillo less than forty- 
eight dollars." However patriotic it might be thought, in the 
time of the revolution, to charge more for the interment of a 
Spanish subject, we should suppose that Christian charity 
would have caused this pious clergyman to have equalized the 
expense, now it is over ! 



NOTICES OF PERU. 319 

The rapacity of the curates, though less now, is almost in- 
credible. Previous to the revolution, a curacy in Peru was a 
sure fortune to the possessor* in the course of a very few 
years. Even now, the only cow of a poor widow is sometimes 
sold to pay the funeral expenses of her husband ! In Pisco, I 
saw an Indian boy, who had been sold by the curate in one of 
the interior provinces, to pay for the requisite number of 
masses for the rest of his father's soul ! 

The curates supply the wax candles used at funerals, for 
which they charge an extravagant price. They are weighed 
previous to leaving the church, and again when returned ; the 
amount of wax consumed is thus ascertained, and the mourners 
are made to pay for it. The number of candles used at a fu- 
neral is limited to twenty-eight, by law. It is usual to place 
four candles round the corpse in the house before interment, 
but the curates generally recommend eight, as being more ef- 
fectual in saving the soul from the torments of purgatory. In- 
deed, so firmly are the lower classes convinced of the necessity 
of masses for the eternal rest of the deceased, that there is a 
cofrddia or company in Lima, to which every poor family pays 
a real a week, for which the company engage to defray the 
funeral expenses, and purchase the requisite number of masses, 
in case of the death of any of its members. 

Besides the fees for funerals, the curates receive others for 
marriages. The marriage ceremony consists of two parts ; one 
is the simple benediction of the parties on joining hands, after 
having expressed their mutual consent before witnesses. After 
the consummation, sometimes the next day, and sometimes a 
week, the parties go to church, and go through the second part 
of the ceremony, which is called the " velaci&n" or veiling, or 
nuptial benediction. The bride is covered with a veil, and 
kneels with the bridegroom before the altar. After mass is 
said, he puts the ring on the bride's finger, and presents her 
with thirteen pieces of money, which are termed the " arras." 
These pieces of money may be reales, or two real pieces, or es- 
cudos, or onzas of gold, according to the pecuniary circum- 

* See Noticias Secretas. 



320 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

stances of the parties. These thirteen pieces or arras are given 
by the bride to the curate. The velaci&n cannot take place 
during lent, except on St. Joseph's day. Besides the arras, 
the curate is entitled to thirteen dollars and four reales, for wax, 
proclaiming the marriage, &c. ; and for ascertaining the fact of 
bachelorship, the consent of the contracting parties, and the 
assent of parents or guardians, he receives twelve dollars ! 

Great difficulties are thrown in the way of foreigners, who 
wish to marry Limanian ladies, if they be not of the Roman 
Catholic faith. To render the nuptials legal, and the children 
legitimate, a license and a dispensation are required to be ob- 
tained from the bishop or archbishop. To enhance the value 
of this indulgence, the bishop bears long importunity, and at 
last yields, in consideration of a douceur of five or six hundred 
dollars, which he accepts, only to be given to the poor, or for 
masses for the benefit of the bridegroom ! Persuasion to join 
the church, or as the phrase is, " hacerse Cristiano" — become 
a Christian, is always made use of, and if the candidate for hy- 
men's altar will attend mass and confess, all the difficulty is 
removed ! Fortunately for foreigners in this predicament, a 
half dozen onzas, quietly deposited in the hands of the curate 
of the parish, will clear all obstructions in the way, without 
resorting to the bishop, or even "becoming a Christian," and 
for two dollars more, the necessary certificate may be obtained. 

In cases where the parties have been unwilling to pursue 
this latter course, and dispensation could not be procured from 
the bishop, the "clandestine marriage" has been resorted to. 
It is thus effected. At the elevation of the host in the usual 
mass, when the priest pronounces the benediction, the bride- 
groom, in the presence of three witnesses (who afterwards sign 
the marriage contract,) says, taking the hand of the bride, "I 
am your husband, you are my wife;" and she replies, "I am 
your wife, you are my husband." This form is all sufficient 
to make the nuptials legal, and consequently, the children le- 
gitimate. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 321 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Influence of priests over society — Perpetual light — Priests rule families — Con- 
fession — Penances — Money paid for expiation of sin — Novenas — Superstition 
—Preaching — Bulas de Cruzada — Character of the clergy — Notions about 
religious toleration — Supremacy of the Pope — "Cartas Peruanas." 

In spite of the low state of morals in Lima, the influence of 
religion, or rather of its priests over society, is very great. 
Whatever the "sacerdote santo" says, is looked upon with 
great veneration. They exercise their power, however, with 
a great deal of lenity, and seldom interdict any of the pleasures 
or pastimes of the people. Notwithstanding this influence, the 
number of intrinsically pious Catholics is very limited, though 
all are very observant of the forms of religion. The priests 
are very careful in giving currency to superstitious notions, par- 
ticularly in cases where pecuniary profit is to be derived. The 
importance of endowing chapels and chaplains, is very gene- 
rally inculcated. 

In the eastern part of the city, there is a small crucifix stand- 
ing in little niche in the wall of a corner house, before which 
a light has been kept burning for many years. Around the 
niche are nailed small books, said to contain the history of an 
individual who was murdered near the spot, and who left a very 
respectable estate. As he died without the sacrament and con- 
fession, a portion of his property was allotted to pay for daily 
masses, to free his soul from the pangs of purgatory, which is 
held up by the clergy as a terror to the ignorant, to prevent 
them from omitting any of the forms of the church. Indeed, 
it would seem, as that eccentric tyrant of Paraguay, Dr. Fran- 
cia, once said, " the priests teach the people to be mindful of 
the devil, and forgetful of God Almighty."* 

The priests managed, through the means of the confessional 

* Essai Historique sur la Revolution du Paraguay, pour Rengger et Long- 
champ. 

41 



322 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

and the dueiias, to make themselves rulers of families of wealth, 
and even, in some degree, governed their domestic regime. If 
a servant made himself obnoxious to the confessor, he was 
soon dismissed, and his place filled by a person of the padre's 
own selection. Though this influence has worn away before 
the improvement of Lima in knowledge, there are still many 
powerful families completely ruled by the ministers of the 
church. It is through the confessional, that powerful engine of 
mental despotism, that the priests have maintained that sway 
which has been so fatal to the advancement of civil liberty and 
true knowledge. Children, who are scarcely able to compre- 
hend the meaning of purgatory, or heaven, are sent to the 
family confessor to recount their infant sins. A lady, who is 
in the habit of expressing more independent views than is ge- 
nerally done by the inhabitants of the "City of the Free," 
told me that her parents sent her to confess, when she was so 
young that she had no idea of the meaning of sin. Her objec- 
tions and protestations were in vain. She at last used to tell 
the confessor a story inpromptu, often as extravagant as it was 
false, and perform the penance to which he condemned her, 
in order to be free from the chiding of her parents. A young 
friend of this same lady, committed to memory the catalogue 
of sins contained in the confessional guide book, and acknow- 
ledged herself guilty of the whole ! The pious father was 
curious to see a person of a character so abandoned as the 
little girl represented herself to be, and looking forth from 
the confessional, he beheld a child scarcely seven years of age ! 

The pious confess weekly, and some even daily, but all are 
compelled, under the peril of excommunication, to lay their 
sins before the padre, and ask forgiveness at least once a year. 
Just before, and during the early part of Lent, is the season that 
all endeavor to remember the sins of the past year, and make 
a humble and contrite confession, and, under a promise of doing 
better for the future, obtain absolution. 

The penances imposed, consist sometimes in wearing a lea- 
ther girdle; sometimes pecuniary fines or religious ofierings 
are required. In 1828, an order was issued to the reverend 
bishops and ecclesiastic governors of the several dioceses in the 



NOTICES OP PERU. 323 

republic, to inform against those curates who required money 
to be paid for penance, or to remove impediments to matrimo- 
ny, particularly amongst the Indians. To those impediments, 
prices were affixed, according to their supposed gravity. 

The curates are in the habit of imposing certain feasts, which 
are paid for by their parishioners. This custom was carried to 
such an excess, that a decree was published against it, limiting 
the number of feasts to eight yearly ; and also limiting the 
price of each feast to ten dollars. Offerings of every kind were 
prohibited, which it was customary to exact under the name of 
ricuchico y aguinaldos ; also the oblations required by some 
curates during holy week, under the title of Preostes, Mfe- 
reces, Estandarteros, &c. The laws of Peru, both religious 
and civil, are but little heeded, except while ihey are new; 
therefore the curates, in the remote provinces particularly, 
still continue their exactions. 

Amongst many other religious feasts, are the "novenas," or 
nine days prayer, in honor of particular saints, which are cele- 
brated with a great deal of pomp, at the expense of the parish- 
ioners. There are also prayer meetings almost every night in 
the churches of the convents, which are attended by great 
numbers of the lower classes, amongst which are found the fa- 
natics in this, as well as in our own happy country. The ig- 
norance and supel^stition of these classes fill me with pity for 
them, and disgust for their hypocritical teachers. One even- 
ing, in the convent of St. Augustin, I heard an old lady, in 
saya y manto, chide another who was kneeling near her, for 
wearing her combs in church, telling her that it was a mortal 
isin, and that she had better remove them. The young woman 
replied, with some warmth, " V""^ es mas peeadora que yo— 
y no me da la gana quitarmelos — ^ pues es mas peeado, el llevar 
peine de noche qui de dia?" — You are a greater sinner than I 
— and T dont choose to take them out — for, is it a greater sin 
to wear a comb by night than by day? 

On these occasions, all the arts of eloquent description of 
hell and purgatory are made use of by these fanatic and aban- 
doned priests, to maintain the fears of the people, and to pro- 



324 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

pagate superstitions which are, alas ! but too widely spread over 
Peru, and indeed over all South America. 

A very intelligent Limanian told me, that when a child, her 
nurse carried her to hear a sermon at one of those night meet- 
ings. The priest, after the celebration of mass, ascended the 
pulpit. He set forth in glowing terms all the horrors of hell — 
the torments that awaited those who in this world neglected 
confession and the purchase of indulgencies, and at length, by 
his eloquence, wrought the whole congregation to tears. He 
then exclaimed, "Ye are cursed — and your souls will burn 
and blaze forever, as I do now," at the same time throwing 
out his arms; his sleeves, which had been purposely wet with 
spirits, took fire in one of the candles. While thus in flames, 
he seized a crucifix, and rushed from the pulpit, crying, "Let 
me escape the contamination of these vile sinners." 

Besides the feasts imposed and alms begged, the people are 
burthened with the charge of "Bulas de Cruzada" or Crusade 
Bulls, and other " indulgencias." 

Las bulas de Cruzada were originally conceded to the kings 
of Spain by the popes, and the profits resulting from their sale 
were devoted to aid the holy wars or Crusades, and hence 
their name. When the age of chivalry faded away before the 
advancing lights of knowledge, and the necessity that created 
the vending of the bulas de Cruzada had ceased, they had be- 
come a lucrative branch of the church revenue. Soon after the 
conquest of America, the bulas de Cruzada were introduced ; 
and at the commencement of the revolution, there were five 
different kinds of bulas, each one possessing its respective vir- 
tues. These were the bull of the living, the "lacticinio," or 
that for food into the composition of which milk entered 
largely, the dispensation for eating meat on days of abstinence, 
and the bulls of the dead, and of composition or reconciliation. 
To each was affixed a price ; they were sold from two reales 
and a half to fifteen dollars, according to their supposed vir- 
tues, and the pecuniary circumstances of the purchaser. The 
bulls were published every two years, at the end of which pe- 
riod their virtues ceased, and a new sale was made ; it was 
therefore necessary to purchase new ones. The bulls were 



NOTICES OP PERU. 325 

written in Spanish, and printed on ordinary paper, in semi- 
gothie characters.* 

The bulls were purchased for every member of the family 
that had attained seven years of age ; and so fully persuaded 
were the poor of their necessity to complete absolution after 
confession, and also of their efficacy in mitigating the torments 
of those of their friends who had departed to another world, 
that they sacrificed any thing in their possession to obtain the 
bulls of dispensation for eating meat, and those of the living 
and of the dead. 

The revolution interrupted all communication with the 
Apostolic See, and consequently the bulas de Cruzada, that 
were on hand, lost their efficacy before a new stock could be 
supplied. Under these circumstances, on the 12th of Decem- 
ber 1825, the dean of the holy metropolitan church of Lima 
issued an order to continue the sale of the bulas de Cruzada, 
which had been suspended on the fourth of March preceding. 
The order states, <'as the want of communication renders it 
impossible to consult the Silla Apostolica, and being necessary 
in the existing circumstances, the hula de Cruzada will be 
granted, that meat may be eaten on the days of Lent and on 
other days of abstinence, excepting only Ash Wednesday; 
every Friday in Lent; Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and 
Saturday in holy week; the vigils of the nativity of Our Lord 
and the Pentecost ; the assumption of Our Lady, and the days 
of the blessed apostles, St. Peter and St. Paul; with the under- 
standing, however, that on all excepted days for eating meat, it 
is obligatory to preserve the form of fast, it not being permitted 
to mix fish and flesh, agreeable to the constitution of the so- 
vereign pontiff, Benedict XIV., dated 30th of May 1741, be- 
ginning, ^ Non ambigimus,' &c." 

To obtain this indulgence, some act of charity or penance is 
required. "All persons in authority, from the first in the re- 
public, all in its employ who enjoy any salary whatever, all 
<haciendados' or farmers, whether proprietors or tenants, all 
who possess any property, or are engaged in commerce, (every 

• Restrepo. Historia de Colombia. 



326 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

individual) shall annually pay one coined silver dollar to the 
hospitals or other pious institutions. Those who are not enu- 
merated shall pay the fourth part, which is two reales. Those 
who are poor, and religious mendicants of both sexes, shall 
only be obliged to pray on each day a Pater Nosier and an 
*/ive Maria, beseeching God in favor of religion and of the 
state. Thus shall all obtain the benefits of the ' indulgencia.' 
*' In the same way and by the same means, may be enjoyed 
all the spiritual privileges and indulgences, contained in the 
summary of the hulas de Cruzada of the living and of the dead. 
Not doubting this to be the will and religious intention of the 
high dispenser of them, we, therefore, on our part, by the 
powers ordinary and delegate which authorize us, concede 
them for the relief and felicity of the faithful, and the tran- 
quillity of their consciences. 

"Given in Lima, December 12th 1825. 

" Francisco J. de Echague, Dean. 

*'Dr. Jorje de Benavente, Secretary J'^ 

The clergy of Peru, like that of all Spanish America, holds 
in its ranks men of talents, deep scholastic learning and pa- 
triotism, but the great mass of priests is composed of men who 
are plunged in superstitious ignorance, and given to every kind 
of immorality. 

The majority of those wearing the garb of the church, are 
men of the lowest vices — men who stroll the streets ragged 
and filthy in their persons — men who, in spite of their vows 
of celibacy, live in open concubinage, and own themselves, 
not only fathers of the church, but also of a numerous ofifspring, 
doubly illegitimate. I have heard them boast of their success- 
ful amours, and say that holy orders do not change human na- 
ture ! The Peruvian clergy, particularly the lower grades, as 
curates and sub-curates, have borne this character for the last 
hundred years. Ulloa, in his "Noticias Secretas," complains 
of their being addicted to women, gambling, and to imposing 
upon their parishioners. His account is given in sober Ian- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 327 

guage, but the description given by Butler of the fanatics of 
his time, is quite applicable to Peru. 

(They) •' could turn the cov'nant, and translate 
The Gospel into spoons and plate ; 
Expound upon all merchants' cashes, 
And open the intricatest places ; 
Could catechize a money-box, 
And prove all pouches orthodox." 

They beg every day through the streets, under the pretence of 
some pious purpose, but devote the greater part of their collec- 
tions to the support of their mistresses, illegitimate children, 
and numerous vices. 

Unfortunately for the cause of religion in all ages, the faults 
and vicious habits of its teachers have been charged against 
the purity of Christianity itself. And, however we may differ 
in opinion with the Roman Catholic clergy, it is our duty to 
give their arguments an honest consideration; for amongst 
those above alluded to, we meet, even in Lima, men of most 
exemplary piety and austere virtue, such as the venerable 
Padre Arrieta and others. One reason for the degraded state 
of the clergy is, that since the revolution, many priests, by the 
suppression of the convents and monastic property, have em- 
braced the privilege of the law of secularization, or leaving the 
cloister. This has cast upon the world men who are destitute of 
means or professions by which to support themselves in society. 
These men, too, are not entitled to the privileges of citizenship, 
and they must beg or starve. 

According to the Constitution of 1828, the religion of the 
Republic is "the Roman Catholic Apostolic. The nation pro- 
tects it by all the means that conform to the spirit of the Evan- 
gelist ; and will not permit the exercise of any other."* A simi- 
lar article is found in the Chilian Constitution, of May, 1833. 

In both countries, the question of religious toleration gave 
rise to very considerable discussion of an animated character. 
The arguments against toleration were, that it gives rise to a 
multiplicity of religious sects ; that these give rise to Deism and 

* Constitucion del Peru. 



328 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

irreligion ; and adduce in proof of it, the state of religion in 
France during the revolution ; the religious persecutions in 
England, particularly against the Roman Catholics ; and the 
great prevalence of irreligion and sectarian fanaticism in the 
United States. That the state of religious opinion in Chile and 
Peru does not require it, because all their citizens are Catholics ; 
and though it be not proper to persecute any man for opinion's 
sake, as God alone is the ruler of the conscience, it is thought 
proper that any person who endeavors to make proselytes to a 
new faith, should be banished the territory forever. In the 
case of only two sects in a state, there is danger of the destruc- 
tion of the state, or of one of the religious parties ; in proof of 
which is adduced the bloody wars of the Jews against the 
Polytheists, and the Moors against the Spaniards. To avoid 
religious discord and contention, the United States resolved, at 
the formation of the government, to tolerate all sects, but to 
protect none more than another. The uniformity of religion 
tends to the consolidation of states, and toleration is of no ad- 
vantage to a society where one opinion or sect prevails, &c. 

A pamphlet published in Chile thus concludes : "I should 
not omit to remark, that some of the tolerant party, convinced 
of the civil and moral dangers occasioned by a diversity of re- 
ligions in a state, have proposed to follow the example of North 
America, and declare, constitutionally, that there is no religion 
of the state ; that is, that the social body has no kind of worship 
by which to adore the Supreme Being. We admit, that in a 
federal system, where each sovereign state has its respective 
religions, it is almost necessary that the general government 
should not declare itself for any one in particular ; it is certain 
that this free will cannot prevent convulsions, where the sects 
are few ; irreligion, if many ; nor the spirit of corporation and 
religious party from mixing in political movements. But may 
Heaven never permit, in Chile, the establishment of that po- 
litical Atheism, and leave this nation united in a society, with- 
out forms or worship to adore God. I would rather inhabit 
Pagan Rome, where I should see the Consul, surrounded with 
triumphal pomp, humiliate himself before Jupiter, received as 
the God of the Empire, than a country where the benefits of 



NOTICES OF PERU. 329 

Providence are acknowledged in taverns, and where there is 
no national God to implore in times of public distress!" 

They generally look upon the separation of the church from 
the state as a deplorable mistake, founded in a false spirit of 
philosophy. 

Those in our country, who seem anxious to change the faith 
of the Catholics in South America, should pause before they 
make the attempt, and consider the immense evils their efforts 
may bring on a people, who have already suffered much on ac- 
count of religion. The learned and pious amongst the clergy, 
are anxious for religious reformation, and correcting the many 
abuses that they know to exist in the church ; but they are as 
unwilling to change their doctrine, which they distinguish 
from its teachers, as any of the many sects in the United States, 
to give up theirs for the faith of the Romish church. It must 
not be forgotten, that the people of South America are Chris- 
tians, and not heathen, nor idolaters, like the western Indians, 
or the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands. I fear there is too 
much truth in the charge of the prevalence of irreligion in the 
United States, There is a broad field at home for the exercise 
of missionary laborers. What would we think if the Peruvian 
church should send tracts and missionaries to our happy coun- 
try, to make proselytes to the Romish church? "Take the 
beam from thine own eye, before thou removest the mote from 
that of thy brother." 

Lately, the interesting question of the universal supremacy 
of the Pope over the Catholic church, has given rise to some 
learned articles in the newspapers, and an erudite pamphlet, of 
216 pages, by the author of " Cartas Peruanas," in defence of 
the Christian Primate. 

The argument against the Pope's supremacy, and. consequent- 
ly, of the independence of the bishops, turns on the question, 
whether Christ gave " the keys" to Peter solely, or whether 
the disciples also participated in the gift. The articles signed 
Desenganador, in the papers alluded to, insist upon it, that 
Christ gave the keys to all the disciples, as well as to Peter, and 
that consequently, as they received them under the same in- 
junctions, Peter could be in no manner superior to them. 
42 



330 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Against this, the author of the << Cartas Peruanas" quotes a 
host of'the holy fathers,and the nineteenth verse of the sixteenth 
chapter of St. Matthew ; — ' ' and I will give unto thee the keys 
of the kingdom of heaven : and whatsoever thou shalt bind on 
earth, shall be bound in heaven : and whatsoever thou shalt 
loose on earth, shall be loosed in heaven ;" and several other 
passages from the New Testament, which I have not time to 
quote, are adduced and explained, to prove that St. Peter sole- 
ly was charged vvitii the keys, and was set over the other dis- 
ciples as their chief. The popes, according to the faith, are 
the successors of St. Peter, who was left as the representative 
of Christ upon earth ; and the holy bishops are the successors 
and representatives of the Apostles. 

Our^uthor insists that the destruction of the supremacy of 
the Pope, must be followed by the destruction of Catholicism 
— that the church is a unity, and its separation must be fol- 
lowed by the springing up of various sects, discord, contention, 
and irreligion. 

The following pages, translated from this well written pam- 
phlet, will give an idea of the manner and spirit in which the 
Pope is defended, by the author of the "Cartas Peruanas." 

Speaking of the vices alleged against the popes, he says, 
*< Amongst these false Catholics, there are some, who, skim- 
ming over the annals of the church, instead of imitating the 
sheep, and extracting the sweetest juices from the flowers, re- 
semble flies that delight in filth and ofiensiveness. They col- 
lect the sweepings of history to cast upon the heads of the 
popes, without distinguishing between the few bad ones and the 
multitude of those who have shone in the face of the Universe 
— when not for their eminent piety, at least for their talents, 
their integrity, their prudence, their zeal, and upright inten- 
tion. 

" Of more than two hundred and fifty popes, who have oc- 
cupied the chair since St. Peter, how few are they, who can 
in reality be qualified as vicious and perverse men ! What 
throne on earth presents us with so long a list of princes, re- 
commendable for genius and virtue? Let us hear Bergier. 
< The charity, the heroic fortitude, the humble and poor life 



NOTICES OP PERU. 331 

of the popes, for the three first ages, are attested by the monu- 
ments of history. The knowledge, the talents, the zeal, and 
laborious vigilance of the fourth and fifth centuries, are incon- 
testable, for their works exist. The labors, and constant en- 
deavors of the sixth and seventh, to diminish and repair the 
ravages of barbarism, to save the reliques of the sciences, arts, 
laws, and customs, cannot be called in doubt ; of these, their 
cotemporaries bear testimony. What the popes did in the 
eighth and ninth, to humanize the people of the north, through 
the means of religion, is so well known, that the Protestants 
have not been able to conceal it, even with the varnish of odi- 
um, except by poisoning the motives, the intentions, and the 
means employed. It was necessary not to forget what the popes 
did in the ninth century, to restrain the devastations of the 
Mahometans. It has been requisite to scrape through the leeS 
of past ages, to find personages and deeds that could be black- 
ened at discretion. And at what period were the bad popes? 
It was when Italy was torn by petty tyrants, who disposed of 
the See of Rome at their will; it was, when, casting out its le- 
gitimate possessors, they placed in it either their children or 
their creatures.'* 

''But even in the ages of general corruption and darkness, 
I mean the tenth and the eleventh, how much are the majority 
of the popes distinguished above the commonalty of men, not 
only by their knowledge, but by their firm and untiring zeal 
in opposing the torrent of abuses of the monarchs and people, 
in extirpating the dominant vices of simony and incontinency, 
in reducing the clergy everywhere to a common mode of living 
separate from the age? All the monuments of that epoch, bear 
testimony to the fact, and amongst them may be reckoned the 
Roman Councils, celebrated in 1059 and 1063. Of the thirty- 
three popes who governed the church in the twelfth and thir- 
teenth centuries, there is not one who did not do honor to the 
Holy See — not one whose habits were reprehensible. If their 
pretensions, and the mode of sustaining them, sometimes caused 
disturbance in the church, the purity of their lives, and their 

• Diccion. Theol. art. Papa. 



332 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

zeal for discipline, always maintained it. In the order of polity 
and government, they adopted the received maxims of the 
times, and which nobody charged as unjust or excessive. Some, 
as Innocent III., labored in correcting, with just severity, all 
the vices and abuses, particularly that of venality, of which the 
Roman court was accused ; and if some did not display an equal 
zeal, their tolerance was drawn from them by the force of cir- 
cumstances, by the misfortunes of the times, and by the ardu- 
ous nature of affairs, which it was necessary to commit to cer- 
tain hands, and which none but the most pure and faithful 
were capable of safely conducting. Taking the times and cir- 
cumstances into consideration, in spite of their political errors, 
let justice be rendered to their personal conduct, and to their 
practice of those obligations, annexed to the apostolic ministry 
in general, and better popes could scarcely be desired. 

"Benedict XL was distinguished for his virtues in the begin- 
ning of the fourteenth century; and if among the seven popes 
who succeeded him, and styled 'de Avignone,' because they 
translated their chair to that city in France, there were some 
chargeable with weakness and irregularities — exaggerated by 
the Italians, who could not pardon their absence from Rome — 
an exact and impartial judgment must confess that they were 
almost all commendable for their sublime qualities, for Ihe 
superiority of their intellects and talents, and many rendered 
their names venerable by the sanctity of their lives. It is not 
strange, that those who figured during the schism, should scan- 
dalize the church by their insatiable avarice to possess means 
to sustain their party, and by their cruel ambition, that made 
them always perfidious, constantly breaking their promise of 
renunciation, for the peace of the church. Such intruders do 
not merit the name of Popes ; but that of sanguinary wolves, 
who, without compassion, scattered the flock of the Lord. 

"But from the election of Martin V., the nine Popes that 
legitimately succeeded him to the Papal throne, until the close 
of the fifteenth century, if they were not all of eminent virtue 
and unimpeachable merit, we may be assured, that, with the 
exception of the two last, they possessed appreciable qualities, 
which did not render them unworthy of the sublime station 



NOTICES OF PERU. 333 

which they filled. Amongst them there is not one who may 
not be admired for an ardent and generous zeal, manifested in 
the defence of Christianity, threatened by the Turks, and who, 
in this respect, did not merit well of all the kings and nations 
of Europe. Though it was their duty, as well as their desire, 
they were not always able to cause a reform in the customs 
and abuses that afflicted the interior of the church. Besides 
the obstacles met with in their own court, and the difficult and 
extraordinary state of things that produced in the church the 
great schism of the west, they found many, in the situation of 
the whole of Christian Europe, torn by internal dissentions 
or external wars, that armed nation against nation, and in each, 
a party against a rival faction, without observing the terms of 
moderation, or the first maxims of humanity ! In the midst of 
so many difficulties, and all the excesses of ambition, of ven- 
geance, and civil fury, to which the Christian nations of Eng- 
land, France, Germany, Poland, Bohemia, Hungary, Spain, 
and Italy, had given themselves up, what could the Popes do 
in favor of good order and canon law, oppressed as they were 
by afiairs, surrounded by cabals, and obliged to defend them- 
selves against their own restless vassals and powerful usurpers? 
If we were just, we would not censure them so much for 
not having done good, of the importance of which they were 
aware, as we should pity thern^ for not having been able to 
do it. 

"From Leo X., that is, during the last three centuries, Rome 
has counted thirty-six Popes. And is there one among them 
whose habits are not free from censure? And how few are not 
remarkable for talent, knowledge, elevated sentiments, or 
eminent piety? In the eyes of any impartial man, Paul III., 
Pius v., SixtusV., Clement VIII., Benedict XIV., Pius VL, 
Pius VII., cannot be considered either as mediocre or vulgar 
men. 

. . <* The Protestant historian of the Life and Pontificate of Leo 
X., doubtlessly was not entirely exempt from prejudice; but 
he possessed too much information and probity to avail himself 
of that tone of injury and inflammation against the Popes, which 
has become so common amongst some who call themselves 



334 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Catholics. Here is the tribute of homage which he renders 
them. ' Few Popes have ascended the Papal throne, who were 
not endowed with more intellect and talents than are common 
amongst men. Consequently, the Pontiffs of Rome have very 
often shown great examples, and have appeared, in the highest 
degree, protectors of the sciences, of letters, and of arts ; hav- 
ing, as ecclesiastics, devoted themselves to those studies which 
were interdicted to the laity, or despised by them. So that 
we must consider them in general as superior to the age in 
which they lived; and the philosopher may justly celebrate 
the eloquence and force of Leo I., that saved Rome from the 
fury of the barbarian Atila ; and he may admire the candor, 
the beneficence, the paternal solicitude of Gregory I.; he may 
wonder at the diversity of the knowledge of Silvestre II. ; he 
may, in fine, praise the ability, penetration, and wisdom of 
Innocent III., of Gregory IX., of Innocent IV., and of Pius 
II., as well as the munificence and love of letters that distin- 
guished Nicholas V.' 

"Why is it that Villanueva, Pradt, and others, whom the 
Desenganador follows and imitates, do not weary with accusing 
the Popes generally, of ambition and avarice ; of pride and 
indolence ; of interest and false zeal ; of injustice, of usurpa- 
tion, of violence, &c. ; it appears, to listen to them, that from 
the time they belted on the ' tiara,' they laid down every sen- 
timent of morality, to follow no other rule than that of their 
interests and passions ! Why do they spread through their 
writings the bitterest bile against their persons, and swear 
against them a hatred so incarnate, a rage so implacable — as if 
they had received from them a personal injury of the most 
atrocious and unpardonable nature?* Does this agree with the 



• "It is true, that there is not wanting a personal motive, sufficient to excite 
the eternal babble of Pradt, and stir up the black bile of Villanueva against the 
Pope. The first cannot forget, that by Pius VII. refusing the bulls of con- 
firmation to the tjrant Napoleon, while held captive in Savona, he was de- 
prived of the Bishopric of Malinas, to which he had been named ; hence his 
complaints, and his endeavor to despoil the Pope of the right of installing the 
bishops ; availing himself for this purpose of all the sophisms that he can 
imagine. (See Concord, de la Amr. con Roma, cap. 12. y nota 23 — .) Nor 



NOTICES OF PERU. 335 

truth of things, or with the Christian philanthropy, or even 
with the philosophy of which they boast? Tantsene animis 
coelestibus irse! Shall we suppose that, irritated like all inno- 
vators, at the inflexible rigor of the Apostolic See, in respect 
to bad or dangerous doctrines, they omit nothing to make it 
an object of odium and contempt ; and that they hope to make 
the affront with which they charge the Roman Pontificate, 
recoil upon the Pontiff himself, and upon the church that re- 
verences him as its chief? 

*' I am unwilling to say it; but I may affirm, that the course 
they take to accriminate the popes is as perfi;dious and tor- 
tuous, as innovators always select; — to bring their vices ia 
strong relief, and dissimulate their virtues — to be delighted 
with showing the excesses and abuses of power, and cast a veil 
over the immense services rendered to civilization, to letters, 
to science, the arts, and all humanity — to exaggerate the rigor 
of punishments, without taking into consideration the enormity 
nor the scandalous nature of the crimes that provoked them — 
to give right to every body except the Pope — to give an evil 
interpretation to the most laudable actions and enterprises — to 
copy all that has been thought or expressed against him and 
his authority by his enemies or rivals — to refer to the facts, 
not as they happened in reality, but as they relate them ; or 
to disfigure them, passing over in silence those circumstances 
that justify them — wilfully to misunderstand the difference of 
legislation, of customs, of the genius of the ages, and of the 
people, always to pass sentence against the Pope, by modern 
ideas entirely unknown in past times — and not only to deplore 
abuses, (which is allowable), but to make it a crime for the 
popes to have at all participated in the general spirit of their 
times, notwithstanding that in the midst of their very abuses, 
they so frequently showed themselves superior to their cotem- 

has the latter been able to pardon the same Pius VII. for refusing to receive 
him near his person and court as Minister Plenipotentiary from Spain, or what 
is the same thing, submit to his insolent and seditious discourses against the 
Apostolic See, or allow himself to be insulted to his face, after having been 
insulted so often in public, both in writing and viva voce. See, Su vida literaria, 
escrita por si mismo. torn. i. cap. Ixix. y siguientes." 



336 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

poraries, which ought rather to have excited admiration than 
bitter and impious censure ! Such is the way in which Villa- 
nueva, above all, has composed his libels, infamalory as re- 
gards the person of the Pope, and seditious in respect to the 
authority of the See. 

" I would say to them, with Melchor Cano, that, discredit- 
ing the Pope, and crying for that reason the vices of the court 
of Rome, even if they were ascertained, they imitate the in- 
solent Cam, who discovered and turned into jest the shame of 
his father! Do they think, in this manner, to render honest 
their perfidy and rebellion against the common father of Chris- 
tians? Let them remember, (adds the same learned man), that 
Jesus Christ shut to them this door, saying, 'The Scribes and 
Pharisees sit in Moses's seat ; all, therefore, whatsoever they 
bid you observe, that observe and do ; but do not ye after 
their works.' (Mat. 23, 2.) The zeal which ye feign, to heal 
Rome of the inveterate hectic, which, according to you, pene- 
trates to the bones, ye had better reserve to cure the pesti- 
lential gangrene of pride and rebellion that has ulcerated your 
hearts. While ye are internally infirm, ye cannot hope to see 
and judge of things as they are. Does Rome scandalize you ? 
Review other courts, all tribunals, the episcopal curacies; in 
every place that men are found ye will find incorrigible abuses, 
incurable vices. For this then will it be necessary to throw 
off all authority, and have neither pope, nor rectors of the peo- 
ple, nor magistrates, nor bishops ?" 

Such are the ideas of a large party in South America. Every 
means to preserve the church and the purity of the faith, were 
resorted to by the governments at the very commencement of 
the revolution. Living as we do, in a land where every man 
is at liberty to follow his own religious inclinations and opin- 
ions, we can have but a faint idea of the mightiness of Catho- 
licism when united to the political government. Nor can we 
perhaps justly appreciate the reasons advanced for its support, 
in countries where but one religion, or rather sect, prevails; 
at least, not till we take into consideration the mental thral- 
dom in which the people have been held by the edicts and 
dogmas of the Catholic clergy. The veil of ignorance that so 



NOTICES OP PERTJ. 337 

long has darkened this fair portion of the earth, is breaking 
away before the rising h'ght of knowledge ; its rays have pene- 
trated far and wide, yet there is much still to clear from the 
darkness of superstition and the influence of clerical imposi- 
tion ; and there is reason to hope, that the Catholic church will 
in these countries be freed from its abuses, and the faith re- 
stored to its pristine purity. The very discussion above al- 
luded to, may possibly result advantageously to Christianity. 

By many in the United States, even the name of Catholic is 
used reproachfully ; but when we see men of talents and edu- 
cation yielding to forms and ceremonies that appear idle, let 
us pause, and be sure that we understand before we condemn 
them. San Martin, the Liberator of Peru, received instruc- 
tions from the Chilian congress to hold sacred the temples of 
religion, and to punish any of those under his command who 
should forget the duty that Christians owe to their God ! 

Soon after the commencement of the revolution, the book- 
makers of Europe prepared hasty translations of the most im- 
pious books, such as Volney's Ruins, the writings of Thomas 
Paine, &c., with a host of lascivious novels, that abound in 
the French language, and brought them into the South Ame- 
rican market. Lima was full of them. Instead of enlighten- 
ing, they only served to stir up the passions, and fill with 
doubts a people by no means prepared to think on abstract sub- 
jects. To prevent the diffusion of this mental poison, several 
decrees were published during 1823, prohibiting the publica- 
tion of any article in the gazettes, " against the Holy Scrip- 
tures, the articles and dogmas of faith, morality, religion, or 
the essential discipline of the church." 

It was these circumstances that gave origin to the "Cartas 
Peruanas," that were commenced in 1822, and continued 
till 1825, at intervals. In 1829, they were collected and pub- 
lished together, forming a well written work on the evidences 
of Christianity, in which the author displays a great deal of 
erudition and industry. He is said to be a canonigo, named 
Moreno. He has taken up and answered the arguments of all 
the most distinguished anti-religionists of France, as Voltaire, 
Rousseau, Diderot, &c. 
43 



338 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Arica — Appearance from the anchorage — Mole — Advertisements — Streets — 
School — Water and provisions — Ancient cemetery — Founding of Arica — 
Population — Products — Commerce — Guano. 



About two o'clock P. M., on the 19th September 1832, 
we anchored in the roadstead of Arica. It is situated in 18° 
28' south latitude. 

The town of Arica is placed under a high sand hill and 
headland, that shelter it from the southerly winds, which pre- 
vail nearly throughout the year. The houses are white ; and 
the churches and belfries, standing on the high ground in the 
rear of the town, give it a neat and imposing appearance from 
the anchorage. 

The long valley of Azapa, running inland, with clusters of 
trees in the distance, and the town at the entrance, is seen from 
far at sea. With the exception of a few gardens and trees to 
the left of the town, the vale is entirely naked for two or three 
leagues back, and the hills that rise in a long ridge to the north 
and south to form it, are sandy and totally barren, not afford- 
ing even soil enough to nourish a single cactus. The morro or 
headland of Arica, which is a prominent bluff of rocks and 
sand, whitened by the deposites of birds, forms a very striking 
landmark in approaching the port. On its summit is erected a 
wooden cross, which is said to be eight hundred feet above the 
level of the sea.* Not far from the base of the morro, is a low, 
flat island of rocks, also whitened with similar deposites ; be- 
tween this islet and the main are many small rocks, rising even 
with the surface of the water, amongst which the breakers are 

• This headland was sunk by an earthquake, in September 1833 ! New 
York Courier and Enquirer. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 339 

constantly rolling and foaming with great violence. About a 
quarter of a mile to the north is the anchorage, which is pretty 
good, though but slightly protected against the prevailing 
winds. 

In the afternoon, we landed at the mole and breakwater, 
which has been built within the last few years.* It has two 
or three flights of steps for embarking, and its top is sur- 
rounded by a wooden rail and benches, which in the evening 
are the resort of the inhabitants of the town. At the outer 
end, is a small box to shelter the custom house officers, who 
are constantly on the alert to detect and prevent smuggling. 
Gn the sides of this watch tower were pasted several written 
notices; one ordered, that no boat should land or leave the 
mole before sunrise, nor after eight o'clock at night, and it for- 
bade any person to go afloat at any time without a written per- 
mission from the captain of the port, or the head of the custom 
house; nor are balsas to be afloat either before sunrise or after 
sunset. Another was the quarantine regulation to be enforced , 
against all vessels from Chile, to prevent the introduction of 
scarlet fever. 

We found the streets intersecting each other at right angles, 
but narrow and dusty, hot and dirty. In our walk over the 
whole town, we met now and then a negro, or a half naked 
child playing in the dirt. In one street we passed a house, in 
which was a small school. We heard a dozen ragged children, 
of various castes, color, sex, and age, standing round the mis- 
tress, who was seated on the floor, singing at the top of their 
voices, in a nasal tone, a set of aves^ which appeared to form 
the conclusion of the afternoon exercises. 

On the 9th November 1631, nearly the whole place was 
shaken down by an earthquake. The streets seemed desolate, 
and many of the houses were in ruins or undergoing repair. 
Most of the buildings are but one story high, and some have 
flat roofs, and others have them made of adobes and arched. 



* The landing is dangerous for those who are not acquainted with the very 
narrow channel* which is surrounded by sunken rocks and breakers. 



340 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Occasionally there falls a passing shower ; generally, how- 
ever, there is nothing but a gdrua or mist during the winter. 

This is the only one of the many towns that I have visited 
in South America, in which there is no billiard table. 

With some labor, vessels may obtain here very good water. 
There is a narrow stream running along the northern side of 
the town, planted on either bank with young willows ; to ob- 
tain water, it is necessary, (on account of rollers and the rocky 
nature of the shore), to roll the casks for a considerable dis- 
tance to the watering place. Provisions are found, of the same 
kinds, and at about the same rates, as at Lima, though not so 
abundant. Beef, however, is an exception. The only butcher's 
meat usually to be met with in the market, is mutton. The 
fruits and vegetables of this valley are the same as those of the 
capital. The fertility of this part of Peru is much lauded by 
the Spanish writers. It is stated, on the authority of Garcilaso, 
that in 1556, there grew a radish so large, that five horses 
were sheltered under the shade of its leaves ! 

With the exception of agues, that prevail during one season 
of the year, the place is healthy, and it is fortunate for the in- 
habitants that it is so, for the curate is the only man who pre- 
tends to any knowledge of the healing art! 

About a mile from the town, on the south side of the morro, 
is a cemetery of the ancient Peruvians. There is one path to it 
over the hill, which is somewhat laborious, and another round 
the base of " Arica Head," which is only practicable when the 
tide is low. 

On the side of the hill are found the graves of this injured 
people, indicated by hillocks of upturned sand, and the num- 
bers of human bones bleaching in the sun, and portions of bo- 
dies, as legs and arms, or a hand or foot, with the dry flesh 
still adhering, scattered over the surface. The graves have been 
a great deal dug, and many bodies carried to Europe by travel- 
lers. Some boys who were playing about the place, told us that 
an <'Ingl6s" in Tacna, had a large collection of them, which 
he is constantly increasing ; for a pair of these mummies, when 
perfect, he pays a doubloon. 



NOTICES OP PEHU. 341 

We dug in several places, without being able to find any- 
thing. At last we inquired of an Indian, who was fishing with a 
cast net, where the graves were found, and what were the in- 
dications by which we might discover them. He told us that 
there were none, except to stamp upon the ground, and dig 
where it sounded hollow. We pursued this plan with consi- 
derable success. 

The surface is covered over with sand an inch or two deep, 
which being removed, discovers a stratum of salt, three or four 
inches in thickness, that spreads all over the hill. Immediately 
beneath, are found the bodies, in graves or holes, not more 
than three feet in depth. 

The body was placed in a squatting posture, with the knees 
drawn up, and the hands applied to the sides of the head. The 
whole was enveloped in a coarse but close fabric, with stripes 
of red, which has withstood wonderfully the destroying effects 
of ages, for these interments were made before the conquest, 
though at what period is not known. A cord was passed about 
the neck on the outside of the covering, and in one case we 
found deposited upon the breast a small bag, containing five little 
sticks about two inches and a half long, tied in a bundle by two 
-strings, which broke in our efforts to open the bag. A native 
gentleman told me that drinking vessels, and the implements 
of the occupation pursued by the deceased while living, as bal- 
sas, paint brushes, &c., were frequently found in these graves.* 

Several of the bodies which we exhumed, were in a perfect 
state of preservation. We found the brain dwindled to a crumb- 
ling mass, about the size of a hen's egg — perhaps adipocire.'' 
The cavity of the chest was nearly empty, and the heart con- 
tained what seemed to be indurated blood, which cut with as 
much facility as rich cheese. It was reddish black. The mus- 
cles cut like hard smoked beef. 

Arica was founded not long after the conquest, though at 
what period is not recorded. It is 2S0 leagues from Lima, 80 
from Arequipa, and 14 from Tacna. In 1579, when visited by 
Sir Francis Drake, in the Golden Hind, it contained only 

* See Calancha, Herrera, Gu:ciIaso, &c. 



342 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

twenty houses ; and though two centuries and a half have since 
elapsed, their number is not more than 300, and the population 
does not exceed 2,000 souls. 

Refore the revolution, the valley produced cotton, wine, 
olive oil, maize, and aji, (a kind of red pepper, extensively 
used by the Indians,) amounting in all to ^ 602,500, for the 
year 1791.* It was also rich in mules, employed in the traffic 
of the interior. 

Prior to the birth of the Republic of Bolivia, all the trade 
with that country, known then as Alto-Peru, passed through 
Arica; but since the opening of Cobija, the commerce has di- 
minished in proportion as it advances in the latter place. The 
prosperity of Arica depended very much on that trade, which 
the policy pursued by the government of Peru has lost. All 
goods intended for the Bolivian market, are charged according 
to their class, with a transit duty of five, ten, and fifteen per 
cent. ; but as they can now be introduced directly through Co- 
bija, at the same or less rates, Arica is ruined. The population 
of the valley is too small to create a demand sufficiently great 
to maintain wholesale dealers ; consequently, very few vessels 
touch in the port. 

The principal exports are gold, silver, copper, tin, and some 
few chinchilla skins, that pay a duty of four per cent, on a va- 
luation of two dollars per dozen. To encourage the working of 
mines in this district, gold and silver are allowed to be export- 
ed, though in all other parts of the republic it is prohibited; 
gold pays a duty of about eighty cents the ounce, and silver, a 
dollar the mark of eight ounces. 

There is a coasting business carried on between this place 
and Pabellon de Pica, and Iquique, which are some leagues to 
the southward. Small vessels load at those places, with a sub- 
stance called Guano, which is used as a compost in almost 
every section of the coast of Peru ; in many places the soil 
being entirely unproductive without it. 

"The "guano de Iquique," or "de pajaros," according to 



• Mercuric Peruano, vol. 6. p. 132. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 343 

tradition, was in use during the dynasty of the Incas. There 
are various opinions respecting the nature of guano; some sup- 
pose that it is a mineral production, and others, that it is simply 
an accumulation of the excrement of marine birds. The im- 
mense quantities that are consumed, its weight, its reddish co- 
lor, the length of time and immense number of birds required 
to produce the great quantity that exists, are rather in favor of 
the mineral origin. But on the other hand, its physical and 
chemical properties incline us to look upon it as an animal pro- 
duction. The ammoniacal odor which it gives off, the presence 
of uric, phosphoric, and oxalic acids, and potass,* its color 
more or less reddish, according to its exposure to the atmo- 
sphere, the identity of its composition with that of the " guano 
bianco" (white guano,) daily produced, similar deposites not 
being found in the interior, not being in strata or layers, as we 
should expect to find a mineral product, having found in it, at 
certain depths, the remains of birds, and cutting instruments, 
used by the ancient Indians, the fact that the guano bianco be- 
comes red in the course of time, are sufficient evidence that the 
guano de pajaros is an animal production. 

Of this substance there are three varieties ; the red, the dark 
gray, and the white. The first and second are on the islands 
of Chincha (near Pisco), Iquique, and the hill of Pabellon de 
Pica. 

The island of Iquique is the place whence it was first ex- 
tracted, and hence its name of "guano de Iquique." It is 
about four hundred yards from the port of that name ; it is 
eight hundred yards long, and two hundred broad ; and was 
worked for twenty-five years, in which time it was exhausted. 
About thirty years since, the Piloto, Reyes, discovered the 
guano of Pabellon de Pica, which is situated on the sea shore, 
about thirty leagues from the village, and eighty from the port 
of Mollendo. This hill is very high ; the sea laves its base, 
which consists entirely of guano, and the opposite side is sand 
and gravel ; formerly a mine was worked in the rock, said to 
be of silver, but no indication ot guano was met with in the 

* According to an analysis made by MM. Foupcroy and Vauquelin. 



344 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

excavation. The neighboring hills on both sides are of pure 
sand, which is carried by the winds, and deposited on and 
covers the guano. The guano of this hill is about a quarter of 
a league in length, and about three hundred varas high. To 
extract it, the covering of sand is first removed, and then deep 
excavations are made. 

The third variety, or white guano, is most esteemed, from 
being fresh and pure ; it is taken from the numerous islands, 
lying near the shore, along the whole Peruvian coast. These 
varieties of guano have several prices ; the red and dark gray, 
being more abundant, are worth ten reales ($1 25) the fanega 
of 250 lbs, ; the white, from the port of Mollendo, is sold at 
two dollars the fanega, and during the war it rose even to 
seven. 

It seems incredible that these guanos could be deposited by 
the assemblage of birds that rest together during the night, 
but wonder ceases when we consider the millions of them, as 
the Jirdeas Phenicopteros, or flamingos, that rise in the air 
like clouds of many leagues in extent, and that the deposites 
have been accumulating perhaps ever since the deluge. From 
the islands of Islay and Jesus, in the years that they are fre- 
quented by many birds, four and five hundred fanegas of white 
guano are annually obtained. During these latter years their 
produce has been very small, the birds having absented them- 
selves, from the unusual heat of the summers, the want of 
food, and the firing of guns by many vessels that have visited 
that port. The proprietors of the guanera, or guano ground of 
Jesus, were so fully persuaded of this, that they obtained ce- 
dulas from the Court of Spain, forbidding the entrance of ves- 
sels into the port, and the birds again returned. Since the 
opening of the port of Islay, these islands have not yielded a 
hundred fanegas a year. 

Without the guano, the volcanic and sandy soil of the pro- 
vince of Arequipa is almost unproductive; but when used, it 
yields in potatoes forty-five for one, and in maize thirty-five 
for one. It is so active, that unless watered soon after it is ap- 
plied round the roots of the plants, it dries them, or, as the 
country people say, burns them up. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 345 

The quantity of guano yearly employed in Peru, is estimat- 
ed to be, from 

Mollendo, - - - 25,000 fan^gas. 

Cocotea, -- - - 6,000 « 

Chancay, - - - 5,000 " 

Arica and Tarapacd^ - 5,000 " 



Total, 41,000 fan6gas. 



The above account is taken from a paper on the subject, 
published in the " Memorial de Ciencias Naturales, y de In- 
dustria Nacional y Estranjera, edited by M. De Rivero and 
N. De Pierola. Lima. Vol. I. 1838." 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Islay — ^Landing place — Town — Arequipanian ladies — Post-office regulation — 
Notions of the captain of the port about politics. 

About two o'clock in the afternoon of the 24th of Septem- 
ber, 1832, we anchored in the roads of Islay. The charts of 
this part of the coast of Peru, are far from being accurate. 
This port is laid down as being in 16° 44' of south latitude, 
and in 72° 40' of west longitude from Greenwich. The true 
latitude is 17° 1' — seventeen miles farther south than marked 
in the charts ; and the longitude is 72° — forty minutes to the 
eastward of the chart. By the chart, Arequipa is forty miles 
from Islay, but the actual distance is ninety. Similar errors 
are found in several places along this region of Peru. 

The land to the north and south is barren and rocky, and 
lower than it usually is along the coast. About two leagues 
back, it rises to a very considerable height. In the gullies and 
44 



346 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

ravines, are large white patches, consisting of ashes, thrown 
out many years since from a volcano, which, from the sea, 
have the appearance of light drifted snow, partially melted. 

The landing place differs from any thing of the kind that I 
have seen anywhere on the coast. The shore of the whole bay, 
or rather roadstead, is bounded by irregular rocks about two 
hundred feet high, and nearly perpendicular ; so that even if a 
landing be effected, their top is almost inaccessible. At the 
base of a rocky mass with square faces, rising out of the sea, 
and about ten feet high, and separated from the main by a nar- 
row channel, there is a floating stage, or as it is technically 
called, a camel. A horizontal stage, supported by stanchions 
and chains, juts out from the top of the rock, having a vertical 
shutter or midriff floating from its edge. The ascent from the 
camel to the stage is effected by the aid of a rope ladder of 
some six or eight steps, that rests against the shutter, and a 
pair of man ropes like those suspended at the gangway of a 
ship. On the stage is a pair of shears, with a tackle for hoist- 
ing and lowering goods. A path mounts from the stage over 
the rock, and is continued over a short wooden bridge, that 
connects it with the main. 

The site and neighborhood of Islay is a barren plain, gently 
rising from the sea. About two leagues back, the surface is 
covered with green vegetation, and suddenly rises to a height 
of about three thousand feet. The summits of these hills were 
so constantly hidden in clouds, that we got a glimpse of them 
only once or twice while here. Near their base are some groves 
of olive trees. 

In 1829, this spot, cheerless as it is, was purchased by the 
government, for building the seaport of Arequipa, which was 
previously reached from Quilca and Mollendo, which are now 
closed. 

Notwithstanding that the ground is broken by deep gullies, 
the town is very regularly laid out. The huts, for they do not 
merit the name of houses, are one story high ; the roofs are 
pitched, covered with rush mats, and stand with the gable end 
to the street. The walls are made of willow poles, brought 
about fourteen leagues, driven into the ground, closely toge- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 347 

ther, and lined on the inside with mats similar to those of the 
roofs. The floors are also of mats. From the great pitch of the 
house-tops, T was led to inquire whether it rained, and learned 
that there is only an occasional drizzle. Such is the general 
architecture in this new port, excepting the custom-house, 
which is two stories high, and some two or three wooden 
buildings occupied by foreigners. The church, which stands on 
one side of the plaza, is a large frame, bearing a striking like- 
ness to an old weather beaten barn. Near it is a pair of shears, 
made of three poles, from which are suspended three small 
bells ; strips of raw hide hang from the clappers, by which 
simple contrivance (and it is adopted all over South America) 
the necessity of turning the bell over to ring it is completely 
avoided. The only exterior ornament is a wooden cross fixed 
on its top. Through the joinings of the door, we perceived 
that the floor was tiled, and the interior neat and clean. On 
the door was pasted a notice nearly to the following efiect 

"We, the Bishop of Arequipa, desirous of afibrding to all 
faithful Christians opportunities of prayer, and availing our- 
selves of our power delegated from his Holiness the Pope, do 
grant to the port of Islay an indulgence of forty days, provid- 
ed that its inhabitants prostrate themselves," &e. 

Well, said 1 to the captain of the port, suppose that the in- 
dulgence had not been granted, what difference could it make 
to the place. He shrugged his shoulders, drew down the cor- 
ners of his mouth, and replied, '< ninguna'' — none. 

<< Of what benefit is it to the people?" 

"Ninguna puez, but they suppose, if any one who accepts 
of the indulgence die, he will escape from purgatory in one 
half of the time allotted for his stay there, which," said he with 
a knowing smile, "is a consideration !" 

We next found a billiard table, where a negro and a white, 
both genteelly dressed, were playing; and I learned that the 
first was a doctor, and the latter an alcalde. Besides this place 
of public resort, there are two or three tippling shops, with 
signs over the doors, representing the union of the flags of Pe- 
ru, Chile, England, and the United States, which are all temp- 
tations for sailors, and being clanish in their notions, they are 



348 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

easily taken by the bait. If Jack only spies his own bunting in 
the picture, it is enough, and he seldom cares to notice any- 
thing further. 

When we called on the captain of the port, we were courte- 
ously received by his lady, who appeared at the door, smoking 
a cigar. We found in the room a very pretty collection of 
books, which is quite an unusual sight in these places. It con- 
sisted mostly of novels; amongst them were translations of 
Ivanhoe, the Talisman, two cantos of Byron's Don Juan, 
Franklin's works, and several treatises on marine and military 
tactics. 

Islay is at present quite gay, and presents as busy a scene as 
may be imagined, for a place containing no more than eight 
hundred or a thousand inhabitants. There is a number of fami- 
lies here from Arequipa, where, at this season, I am told it is 
disagreeable and unhealthy. The ladies are amusing themselves 
in this inhospitable-looking place, by bathing, and promenad- 
ing the hills. To judge from the specimen here, the Arequipe- 
nas are rather pretty : they are remarkably small, and have 
black eyes, clear skins, fine hair, and dear little feet ! 

When we returned to the boat, we found the whole world 
assembled round a seal that had been just shot, and laid on the 
bridge before mentioned. The governor and the captain of the 
port, with their ladies, were amongst the crowd. The news of 
the phoca ran through the town, and curiosity soon brought 
all the ladies in the place around it. They took this opportuni- 
ty of seeing the progress made in removing the stones from a 
spot, surrounded by perpendicular rocks, which is intended for 
a bathing place. Some of the ladies were finely dressed, and 
wore beautifully embroidered shawls, and large filigree combs, 
with the hair tastefully supported by them ; others were in dis- 
habille, with red baize shawls over the shoulders, and the hair 
plaited in two braids, hanging down the back, and some wore 
round hats of Manila or Guayaquil manufacture. All were scru- 
pulously nice about the feet. They were cased in silken hose 
■and white satin shoes, which did not seem exactly adapted to 
the dust and rocks of the streets. When they turned up the 
hill towards the town, we could not but admire the turn of 



NOTICES OP PERU. 349 

many a pretty foot and ankle, which, from the shortness of the 
dresess, were disclosed even unto the garters ! 

The commerce of Islay is very limited. During the two past 
years, only three American merchant vessels have anchored in 
the roads. The trade is chiefly English. At present there are . 
two English, and one French, merchantmen, and a French fri- 
gate, with one or two guano traders, in the port. It is supposed 
that the commerce will increase, when the port of Arica is 
closed, which has been for some time contemplated by the go- 
vernment. 

The following decree, given to me by the captain of the port, 
was pasted, with several others, signed by the Prefect of Are- 
quipa, against the side of his house. One prohibited the firing 
of rockets on feast days, and another forbade bull-baiting, as a 
barbarous and inhuman sport, suited only to the uncivilized. 

" Peruvian Republic — Ministry of government, and of fo- 
reign affairs^House of government in Lima. January 4 
1832— 13M. 

*' To the Prefect of Arequipa : — 
"Sir,— 

" By supreme order, and under the necessary responsibility, 
I herewith enclose you an authorized copy of the supreme de- 
cree, issued June 2d 1822, that you may cause it to be strictly 
conformed to: for in spite of its having been frequently re-issued, 
the revenue of the post oflice has diminished to such an extent 
that it is not sufficient to meet the expenses of that departf 
ment. i 

" With this, 1 will also advise you to take especial care that 
no subversive papers be introduced into this department ; for 
the law which governs the press, should not allow the impor- 
tation of any, that may not be printed with impunity within 
the territory of the republic. 

" I mention this to you, for the purpose indicated by the 
express command of His Excellence the President — May God 
protect you. 

"Matias Leon." 



350 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

^^THE SUPREME DELEGATE. 

"I HAVE ACCORDED AND DECREED. 

"1st. That so soon as any vessel shall anchor in any port 
of the state, from whatever place she may proceed, her captain 
or supercargo shall notify the passengers, that they may de- 
liver the letters which they may bring, with those in charge 
of the captain or supercargo, to the captain of the port, or in 
his absence, to the sub-delegate of marine ; in order that they 
may be remitted to the general administration of the post office, 
or to the chief of the department, to which the port appertains, 
with a list of the letters, signed by the captain of the vessel, 
and by him who may receive them. 

" 2nd. If any letters shall contain bills of exchange or other 
interesting documents, the same shall be noted by whoever re- 
ceives them, at the bottom of the list mentioned in the pre- 
vious article, relying on the statement of the captain or super- 
cargo. 

" 3d. The captain, supercargo, or passenger, in any vessel, 
who shall infringe the first article, shall incur the penalty of 
five hundred hard dollars, for every letter he shall fail to de- 
liver as therein expressed. 

"4th. Whoever shall inform of the infraction of the said 
article, proving that any letter, even of recommendation, has 
been delivered, shall receive one-half of the fine, and his name 
shall not be disclosed. 

" 5th. Travellers by land, who may carry letters from one 
point to another of the free* territory, are equally obliged to 
deliver them to the administration of the post office, on arriv- 
ing at the place of their destination, under the penalty of fifty 
dollars for every letter they shall fail to deliver into that office. 

" 6th. Loose copies of this decree shall be printed, and the 
officer charged with its execution shall give one to the captain 
or supercargo, so soon as he shall arrive in any port, and the 
guards at the gate shall give them to those coming from be- 
yond this capital, that nobody may allege ignorance. 

• Meaning, not occupied by the Spanish armies ; this decree having been 
Erst promulgated during the revolution. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 351 

" 7th. From these general rules is only excepted official 
correspondence, directed to any of the constituted authorities, 
which may be delivered directly to them. So soon as the pre- 
sent decree is inserted in the official gazette, it shall be con- 
sidered as circulated to the administrators of the post office 
revenue, to the director-general of marine, to the sub-delegates 
of that direction, and to captains of ports, that each one re- 
spectively may take care of the punctual observance of what 
is in it ordered. 

" Given in the palace of the Supreme Government in Lima 
—4th of June 1822-3. 

(Signed) « Torre Tagle. 
" By order of His Excellence, 

"Bernardo Monte agudo. 
*'Copy — Rio. 

"Arequipa, 1832." 

After reading the decree, I told the captain of the port that 
such laws were hardly in accordance with the institutions that 
should adorn a free republic, nor were the reasons set forth in 
the preamble, very feasible to account for the diminution of 
the revenue, since it was a natural consequence that corres- 
pondence must diminish, when commerce was interrupted by 
war and onerous duties. 

He answered, it was very true ; but, he continued, the object 
of the decree was not revenue, as set forth, but to prevent the 
introduction of any gazettes or papers containing articles 
against General Gamarra or his administration. He stated, 
that he was authorized to open any letter or packet containing 
papers, and if they contained any thing that might be con- 
strued as subversive of the government, to destroy them. He 
added, that very lately he had burned a large number of papers 
of that character, forwarded by General La Fuente from Chile, 
to different persons in Peru. 

I told him how matters are managed in our country, and 
how free was the expression of public opinion. 

He observed, in reply, " You are a different people from us 
— you are educated, and have been independent for fifty years 



352 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

— though composed of many states, they move on harmoniously 
together. We are made up of seven departments or provinces, 
and the inhabitants of one are against those of the others. The 
Cuzcanian abhors the Limanian and the Arequipanian both. 
Our population is a heterogeneous mass of negroes, sambos, 
mulattoes, mestizos, Indians, and whites ; the latter are fewest 
in number, and the Indians most numerous. All the castes 
set themselves against the whites, and the Indian's hand is 
against them all. The greater part of the'population is ignorant, 
and incapable of judging of its rights. The government is now 
establishing schools, and it is to the rising generation that we 
look for a proper constitution and laws. We are not like the 
United States — her freedom would not suit us. Our people 
are passionate, and ignorant, and ready to follow the standard 
of any plausible leader, who chooses to lure them by fair pro- 
mises and the abuse of the existing authorities. Newspapers, 
which, in the United States, are the great means of propagating 
knowledge and correct opinions on almost every subject, are 
not appreciated. Even men of the better classes live without 
knowing what is going on around them — even official news- 
papers are but little read, and foreign gazettes are unheard of. 
For this reason, inflammatory articles have very extensive in- 
fluence upon the people. It is therefore necessary, for the 
tranquillity of the republic, to keep factious and party papers 
out of their way." 

"Your commerce is declining." 

"Yes! and our ports are in ruin; but the present congress 
is thinking of lowering the duties, and we hope that it will 
again revive." 



NOTICES OF PERU. 353 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Pisco, from the anchorage — Landing — Ancient Pisco — Town — A ride— Salinas 
— Commerce — Captain of the Port. 



On the 29th of September 1832, we anchored opposite to 
Pisco, about two miles from the shore, and in four fathoms of 
water. Lat. 13° 46' S. Long. 76° 12' W. 

From the anchorage, the broad valley presents an undulat- 
ing champaign country, extending several leagues in every di- 
rection, and covered as far as the eye can reach with olive 
groves, palmettos, and shrubbery. The white spires and fanes 
of the town were seen in relief against the sides of the blue 
Cordilleras, magnificent in their snow-crowned summits, and 
rich in hidden treasures of gold and silver. They stand far 
from the coast, but still oppose their blue cloud-like sides to 
the view. Their outline was penciled against the vault of hea- 
ven ; they looked the beneficent genii of South America, in- 
viting the clouds, the vapors, the rain, and the snow ; and 
receive their gloom, their torrents, their frost and cold, upon 
their own devoted heads, and thus defending the thousand 
valleys at their feet, pour down their streams to fertilize those 
valleys, which are as their children. 

We found the landing easy, though it is occasionally diffi- 
cult ; when the wind is fresh, several large rollers form them- 
selves in lines, and tumble one after the other on the beach, 
with so much force as to upset or fill the boats that attempt to 
land. , 

Some hundred and fifty years since, Pisco stood where the 

sea now breaks ; and even now, the tide does not ebb beyond 

the ruins of the ancient town. To the right of the landing is 

an old fort and some ruined stores, that were destroyed by the 

45 



354 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

patriots who landed here in September 1821. A large store- 
house and a few huts stand upon the shore, the town of Pisco 
being about a mile from the sea, where it was built soon after 
the earthquake of 1682. At that time, the sea retired for a 
considerable distance, and again returning with immense vio- 
lence, submerged the whole town ; and remained a quarter of 
a league beyond its former limits. 

When we landed, we found the captain of the port ready to 
receive us ; he plead indisposition for not having visited us, 
and, to use a Spanish expression, he politely "franked us his 
house," and offered us horses to ride to town ; but we prefer- 
red walking, as the morning was pleasant, and the distance 
short. On our way, we saw several ruins of ancient Pisco, 
and in the neighborhood several huacas or mounds of the 
aborigines. It is supposed that the race of Indians which in- 
habited this section of the country previous to the conquest, 
was very poor, as nothing has ever been found either in 
their huacas or in their graves, though diligent examinations 
have been made. 

The town of Pisco is small, and bears a sufficient resem- 
blance to Lima to mark it as a dwarfish offspring of the same 
parent. As at Lima, buzzards and carrion birds are constantly 
sailing about in the air above it. It contains a convent of the 
order of San Francisco, which is now closed, from want of 
funds to maintain its friars. The architecture of the churches 
and dwellings is similar to that in most of the towns along the 
coast of Peru. The Cathedral, or rather the Iglesia Matriz, 
occupies all the eastern side of the plaza ; it has a tower at 
each corner of its front, an oval roof, and a dome at the back. 
Being Sunday, the streets were gay ; and several well fur- 
nished stores of the place were open. Many heaps of fruit, 
shaded by mats supported on poles, lay in a line across the 
plaza. Mules and asses were moving in every direction, 
bearing riders in holy-day suits. The negress moved in her 
calico gown and jaunty flounces, with a well glazed hat of 
Manila straw, barefoot, though not without the ornament of a 
flower. The negro sauntered about in his big bottonied " bra- 
gas ;" the gay miss advanced towards the church with mea- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 355 

sured step, in her saya y manto, followed by a little negress 
bearing the rug upon which her mistress bowed the knee be- 
fore her saint, and sent her oraisons to heaven. 

The hours of prayer had scarcely passed away, before the 
ear was saluted with the tones of the guitar and rude harp ; 
the sounds of moving feet, the laugh, and all the noise of jolly 
mirth. 

On the fourth day of October we took a ride into the coun- 
try. We visited a vineyard, which covers more than a hun- 
dred acres, where black grapes only are grown, but the vines 
were not very carefully tended. From the black grape, large 
quantities of piseo or aguardiente (brandy) are distilled in this 
Department, and exported to different parts of Peru. We left 
the vineyard and passed over an extensive formation of chalk, 
through which a channel or canal was cut, many centuries ago, 
by the aborigines. A bridge of chalk was left for the purpose 
of crossing. A little further on, we came to the Salinas or salt 
beds. The surface looked as if it had been boiled and suddenly 
cooled, leaving little ridges running over it in every direction. 
We rode at least a league on the salt, when we came to a spot 
where several men were cutting it into cakes of about two feet 
long, one broad, and about six inches thick. Where the salt 
had been taken out, there were ponds of water of a reddish color, 
and indeed the whole may be compared to a frozen lake with 
holes cut into it. Although almost any amount of salt is ob- 
tainable, the expense of conveying it to the coast is so great 
that the Salinas cannot be worked with profit. This salt, like 
all that found along the coast, is so contaminated with nitre, 
lime, and magnesia, that it is unfit for preserving beef or any 
kind of meat. 

Not far from the Salinas is an extensive sugar estate, known 
by the name of Caucato. Before the revolution it was worked 
by twelve hundred slaves, but since that period it has gone 
almost to ruin, and the slaves are reduced to less than five 
hundred, and who are not at all subordinate. There are 
several mills upon it for grinding the cane, which are worked 
by oxen ; the only water mill is now out of repair. They 
were making a brown sugar of an inferior quality, termed 



356 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

** chancaca," which is used in the manufacture of syrups and 
sweetmeats. The sugar of Peru is generally put up in large 
loaves of from fifty to a hundred and fifty pounds, and wrap- 
ped in flag mats covered with coarse bagging. Chile is its only 
foreign market ; and since the heavy duty of three dollars the 
arroba, or twelve dollars the hundred, has been imposed, that 
is destroyed, and many of the sugar estates of Peru are conse- 
quently fast going to decay. On this estate there is also a soap 
apparatus, with copper vats, one of which is so large as to 
give 800 quintals, equal to 80,000 pounds, of hard soap, at a 
boiling ! It has not been in operation since the revolution. 

The chief exports from Pisco are sugar, olives, dates, aguar- 
diente, and Italia, a very pure brandy, of a peculiar odor and 
flavor, resembling that of peach leaves. It takes its name from 
the grape from which it is made. The aguardiente is put up in 
jars containing from ten to twenty gallons ; of these about 
18,000 are annually exported and consumed along the coast. 
The country about lea, the capital of the province, yields 
some wine, but of a very indifferent flavor. A duty of three 
reales in paper* is paid on every arroba of spirits exported, and 
three reales in silver on wine. 

During our stay here, we found the captain of the port, and 
indeed all those we became acquainted with, very courteous 
and hospitable. The captain was inclined to be intelligent on 
some points, but prejudiced and opinionated on others. His 
family was amiable, and his daughters, though living in a one 
story building, with a ground floor, and with no other furni- 
ture than a rough table and a half dozen high backed chairs 
with leather seats, always received us kindly, and presented 
us with flowers, the odor of which they were careful to en- 
hance by sprinkling them with Cologne water ! 

At the captain's house we met an "old Spaniard," who had 
resided a number of years in different parts of Peru, and who 
was very intelligent and agreeable in conversation. Speaking 
of the Peruvian ladies one day, he said, "that during sixteen 
years he had not heard of a single happy marriage with fo- 

* Custom house bonds. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 357 

reigners," and supposed that it arose from difference of educa- 
tion. The husband was annoyed by the frivolities and expen- 
sive amusements of his wife, or by her loose manner of con- 
versation, for there are few Limanians who are not fond of 
vulgar allusions and broad jests, too disgusting to repeat, and 
some even go so far as to enjoy a practical joke of the kind. 
But he added, that though the ladies were accused of looseness 
of morals and inconstancy, he had not known one to go astray 
who was united to a foreigner of any respectability ! 

Speaking with the captain of the port about the political 
state of the country, and more particularly of its relations 
with Bolivia and Chile, he observed, that he believed the 
object of the dissentions with Bolivia were to make General 
Santa Cruz President of Peru, for all the states of South 
America looked towards Peru with a jealous eye, as being 
the favorite child of nature, abounding in capital, and mineral 
wealth ! 

Not long since, it was thought that Peru could grow within 
itself sufficient wheat for its own consumption ; therefore a 
very heavy duty was imposed upon that imported from Chile, 
with the view of encouraging its cultivation at home. The 
Chilians became indignant, and reciprocated, by imposing a 
duty of twelve dollars per quintal on the importation of Peru- 
vian sugars. The Peruvian Congress then proposed to admit 
into their ports all foreign vessels at reduced duties, on condi- 
tion of not touching previously in the Chilian ports. The 
Peruvians and Chilians now view each other with a jealous 
eye, and mutually apply very harsh epithets ; the first say 
that the latter are a set of savages, who were not civilized till 
after the revolution, and they are mean spirited enough to ape 
the English and Americans in whatever they do~" Siendo 
Inglez o' Norte Americano, basta para que entre en la socie- 
did de Chile" — To enter the society of Chile, it is enough to 
be an Englishman or North American. The Chilians charge 
the Peruvians with ignorance, immorality, arrogance, and 
want of hospitality. The Peruvians reply, that they cannot 
even speak Spanish with propriety; that they are a set of 
drawlers, &c. 



358 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

I asked the captain of the port if he had received the circu- 
lar relative to the post office, which I had seen at Islay. He 
gaid "Yes, but as it was promulgated at a time when nobody 
ruled — when Bolivar, Torre Tagle, and Monteagudo, were all 
heads of the government, and nobody subordinate, and as 
Pisco was not a port of entry, he did not trouble himself 
about it!" 



CHAPTER XX. 

Guarmey — Ferrol — Samanco — Nepena. 



On the 24th of April 1833, we sailed from Callao, and on 
the 26th, at ten o'clock, anchored in the Bay of Guarmey. It 
is a mere indentation of the coast, and is situated in ten degrees 
and five minutes of south latitude, and fifty-nine and a half 
minutes of longitude west of Callao. It is of easy ingress and 
egress, and the anchorage is said to be good. The land to the 
southward is sterile and precipitous. After doubling round the 
point, the eye is relieved by an agreeable contrast; for then the 
valley comes into view, covered with the bright green foliage 
of algarrobo and espino trees, which grow about twenty feet 
high. A small rivulet empties into the southern extremity of 
the bay, where vessels may take in a supply of fresh water, 
without much difficulty. The river is from three to four 
feet deep, and about twenty yards in breadth. It has several 
branches, some of which pass through beds of saline earths, or 
salt-licks, that yield, by lixiviation and evaporation, nitre and 
marine salt. The earth which has been lixiviated and deprived 
of its nitre, is exposed for a twelvemonth to the atmosphere, and 
again affords nearly an equal quantity of that important article. 
The rationale of its formation, is far from being satisfactory, if 



NOTICES OF PERU. 359 

we are obliged to look to animal remains for the nitric acid 
which is contained in the nitre. The original formation might 
be attributed to that cause, for the whole vicinity has been 
formerly a cemetery of the aborigines ; but how the earth, after 
it has been exhausted of nitre, regains it by simple exposure 
to the air, is a problem which I am not prepared to solve. 

The salt is said to be too strong for the purpose of preserving 
meat; and sealers say that it is so caustic as to destroy the seal 
skins salted with it. The extraction of nitre at this place, has 
been but recently commenced, but promises to be a lucrative 
business. At present its only market is Lima. 

The chief export, after the nitre, is fire-wood (the espino,) 
which is sold at Callao at a dollar per quintal — at Guarmey, it 
is worth two reales and a half. 

Near the beach, were long piles of wood, from which two 
or three small craft were loading. Two or three ranches of flag 
mats, were the only habitations about the landing. The town 
of Guarmey is about two miles from the bay, situated in the 
midst of a thickly growing forest of espino and algarrobo trees. 
A single broad street, kept remarkably clean, forms the vil- 
lage ; the houses are constructed of flag mats, or reeds, plastered 
over with mud ; the chapel, which stands at one end of the 
street, and two or three dwellings, are built of adobes. As we 
walked through the town, the children that were sprawling 
about, or playing, got up and gazed at us, either with the thumb 
stuck in the mouth, or twirling their hands behind them ; the 
women, whose ugliness was remarkable, came to the doors, 
and at least fifty lank and worthless curs, broke the silence by 
their attacks upon us. The whole place had an air of coolness 
and cleanliness, that are unusual in the small towns along the 
coast, for every house was very nicely whitewashed. Guarmey 
contains about three hundred inhabitants, all of whom are In- 
dians or sambos, with the exception of a dozen whites. The 

only foreigners are General E , with three or four men, 

assisting him in his nitre works. 

So soon as we anchored, I landed, in company with Lt. 

A . We followed the stream, and one or two of its 

branches, crossed some lagoons, shooting ducks and water hens 



360 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

as we proceeded. We saw, during our walk, a small flock of 
flamingos, whose feathers were unusually deep colored and 

brilliant. 

On our way along one of the branches of the rivulet, we 
came upon two Indians, catching "camar6nes," or prawns; 
each was armed with a small hoop-net, which they swept under 
the bank, and scooped out from two to twenty at a time. Their 
trowsers were rolled above the knee, and they waded through 
the water with the least noise possible. 

A little further on, we met an old Indian carrying a rude 
iron axe upon his shoulder. He saluted us with a smiling face ; 
and halting, looked at our guns with an expression of curiosity. 
He directed us with his hand to a branch of the stream where 
we would find plenty of game; for which kindness, we gave 
him a porter bottle that we had just emptied, an article, in this 
part of the world, not easily procured by the lower classes; 
gourds of different forms being dried, and used as substitutes. 
<'Dios le pague mi patron" — may God pay you, my patron, 
said he, when he received it, with an inclination of the head. 
We continued on our course, and he turned upon his heel, and, 
in our company, retrod the path which he had just traversed. 
He made many inquiries about the guns, and was very curious 
in examining the percussion locks and caps. Presently he dis- 
appeared, but soon returned with a large gourd of chicha, which 
we found very acceptable, and quite as excellent as we were 
led by fame to expect the chicha of Guarmey to be. After we 
had done honor to his gourd in deep potations, he led us to 
a spot where the sand had formed a flat in the river, which 
was shaded by rocks and trees. Two women were seated on 
the bank, preparing prawns for a meal ; they took off the shell, 
and threw them into a gourd ; a plentiful supply of lime juice 
was squeezed over them, and some salt, which was broken 
from its bed not far off, was then added. In the meantime, a 
young man was upon his hands and knees, blowing a fire made 
of faggots, to heat some stones, which were to be thrown 
amongst the ^'camar&nes," to cook them. Besides this dish, 
they had a quantity of small dried fish, and a gourd of " mate," 
and several of chicha. 



NOTICES OP PERTT. 361 

After taking a second potation of chicha, and leaving them 
a small gratification, we left this pic-nic party, and followed 
the path towards the town, which, however, we lost in the sand, 
and ascended a high sandy hill, from whose summit, where 
there are some Indian ruins, after some difficulty we descried 
the village, almost hidden in trees, and after a toilsome walk 
succeeded in reaching it, though we were near passing it 
when not more than a hundred yards off. We stopped in a 
small pulperia, where we found a quantity of new cheeses 
hung up over head, and a supply of pisco, bread, and chicha. 
Having refreshed ourselves with these, and well pleased with 
the hospitality of the old woman who kept the shop, we re- 
turned on board with our game bags filled with ducks, water 
hens, and wild pigeons. 

Not far from the landing, are the ruins of an ancient fortress; 
and in fact the valley is crossed by the vestiges of a wall, 
which it is supposed was built by the Grand Chimu in his last 
war with the Incas. This war, which was one of religion, 
ended in the complete subjugation of the empire of that valiant 
chief. 

On the 27th of April, we again weighed anchor, and set 
sail for the bay of Samanco ; but passed it at night ; and about 
ten o'clock the next morning, anchored in the bay of Ferrol. 
This bay is two leagues from Santa, and about five from the 
port of Samanco. Ferrol is a beautiful bay, completely shut 
in by two or three rocky islands at its mouth, and is about 
seven miles long and four broad. At its northern extremity 
is a small Indian village, containing about five hundred inha- 
bitants, called Chimbote; and also several springs of fresh 
water, accessible to boats, for watering ships. The bay is 
only visited by sealers, and occasionally by smugglers. The 
rocks, during certain seasons, are completely covered with 
seals, which are taken in great numbers. The southern ex- 
tremity of the bay is separated from that of Samanco by a flat 
neck of sand, about three quarters of a mile wide, extending 
from the main to a large morro or headland, forming in part 
the northern cape of Samanco. Ferrol bay is in 9° 7' south 
latitude and 78° 3' west longitude. The extent of the bay of 
46 



362 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

Samanco, which is not laid down on the charts, is as extensive 
as that of Ferrol, but not so smooth, nor so well defended from 
the sea. Fire wood, sugar, and rice, are carried in small coast- 
ing vessels to the Lima market, but even this trade is very li- 
mited. 

We left the ship about eleven o'clock, and pulled to the 
southern end of the bay, distant about three miles from the 
anchorage, and dragged the boat across the sand, which we 
found covered with dead shells, and bones of marine animals. 
Alarmed by our landing, a very large flock of flamingos rose, 
and sailed away through the air with an infinite grace, while 
a party of buzzards, less timid, only moved ofi" a few yards, 
and when we had passed, returned to their carrion feast. 

Our boat being launched on the waters of Samanco, we pulled 
across to what is termed the port, a distance of at least seven 
miles. When near the beach, we perceived a flag rancho, 
built a few yards from the water, on a knoll of sand, which is 
in a kind of gorge formed by high rocks rising on either side. 
Several dogs ran out and set up a loud barking, at least ten mi- 
nutes before we reached the shore. On the beach M'ere several 
pieces of iron machinery, and a sun-dried boat. Our boat was 
drawn up "high and dry," and the oars &c. carried to the 
rancho and deposited. 

The front of the rancho, which is about ten feet wide, was 
sheltered from the sun by the roof projecting in advance of the 
wall, forming a kind of corridor. The whole was built of cane 
and flags or bulrushes. Beneath this shade we met an elderly 
woman, of the sambo caste, in a calico gown. Panchita, as she 
is called, was seated on a low stool, shelling corn, and at the 
same time quieting a young child extended in her lap. On 
her right was a shelf or counter, filled with bottles of aguar- 
diente, gourds of chicha, and some cheese and onions; on her 
left, were overturned gourds of different sizes, and several cats 
and dogs lying together in familiar confusion. On one corner 
of the counter was the " Guia de los Fieles" — Guide of the 
Faithful — and a mutilated copy of the incomparable adventures 
of Don Quixote, that in appearance had been very frequently 
thumbed. The interior of this dwelling was small, and appa- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 363 

rently comfortless. In one corner was a bed, in which one 
of Panchita's two sons was lying sick with a disease of the skin. 

Though the widow Panchita was so nearly alone, she re- 
plied quietly to our salutation, while she continued her em- 
ployment, nor did she evince the least surprise at our visit. 

We had a letter for a Mr. C , and we inquired the way 

of reaching that gentleman's hacienda or estate. She told us, 
that Guacatambo, the name of the hacienda, was at least three 
leagues distant, and she had no " bestias" to hire, nor had she 
any body to send to the estate to bring us horses. We sug- 
gested, that the boy, Jacinto, who was standing by, might go 
on the " b<arro" that was tethered before the door, amusing 
himself with a bundle of grass; but Panchita said, that Jacinto 
was the only aid she had ; and added, that we might get horses 
at Guambacho, which was only a league and a half off, and 
that we might walk there in a little while. After some per- 
suasion, she consented that Jacinto should mount the donkey 
and act as our guide, which the little fellow seemed right glad 
to do. 

We acted on the widow's suggestion, and the whole party, 
boat's crew and all, set off for the pueblo of Guambacho. The 
sun was powerfully hot, and the road deep in sand, which in- 
creased the heat by its reflection. The country is wild and 
uncultivated, covered with thorn bushes and a few algarrobo 
trees. 

We found the distance a long league and a half, and indeed 
we were afterwards informed that it rather exceeded two. 
When we entered Guambacho, the whole pueblo was assem- 
bled at one rancho, drinking chicha and making merry, be- 
cause it was Sunday. The houses, or rather ranchos, are some 
six or eight in number, and the whole population cannot ex- 
ceed fifty souls. The men had drunk enough to make their 
speech a little thick, and to enlarge their hearts. The women 
were less affected by the drink, and all gave us a hearty wel- 
come. We made known our desire to hire horses for Guaca- 
tambo, which they told us was about a league distant, but all 
said there were no horses to be had. There were two horses 
and a mule standing by the rancho, and one of the men said 



364 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

he would hire his animal for four reales, a second offered his for 
six, but a third declared, that he would not let his animal go 
for less than a dollar, and at last refused to hire the beast for 
any consideration whatever. All at once he had business on 
his chacra, and must be off, but at last agreed to accompany 
us to the hacienda. The sailors were to remain at Guam- 
bacho, and make out the best way they could. Our party con- 
sisted of three, but the owners of the <'b6stias" would not 
consent to trust the animals to our care, and insisted upon 
accompanying us. A small boy was mounted behind Lt. 

D , and a man behind Mr. B , who was on the 

mule without a saddle ; I was on a horse, with a youth named 
Manuel seated behind me on a pillion. 

While we were bargaining for the horses, we inquired for 
the alcalde, with the view of enlisting his services in our favor. 
An old Indian, in his shirt sleeves, secured at the wrists with 
silver buttons, seated in the group, was pointed out by one of 
the party as the person inquired for ; he arose on being address- 
ed, and acknowledged himself to be the alcalde, but regretted 
very much that it was not in his power to force the owners to 
hire their horses, unless we had "un papel del gobierno" — a 
paper from the government ; in that case he would furnish as 
many horses as might be desired, but he doubted whether we 
could do better than take up with the "bestias" before us, 
because he did not think there were any more in the " pueblo." 

Manuel, who was behind me, was a light young man, of a 
copper colored complexion. His eyes were black, but lack 
lustre, and his whole form promised great activity, for though 
small, his limbs were well proportioned. He wore a white 
shirt and trowsers, and a straw hat, which were all extremely 
degenerated in color by dirt. When talking, he was perfectly 
nonchalant, and his countenance at no time betrayed anything 
like emotion or feeling of any kind ; his face was as expression- 
less as parchment. 

We set off, but had not ridden more than a hundred yards, 
before the mule kicked up and threw both riders to the ground, 
and trotted away into the bushes, to the infinite amusement of 



NOTICES OP PERU. 365 

our friends at the rancho. Mr. B then got up behind 

our third companion, after making the boy dismount. 

After riding about a mile, bewailing our ill accommodation, 

Mr. B asked Manuel for his pillion. "En que voy yo 

puez ?" — On what shall I go then ? asked Manuel in return. 

" Why, ride on the bare back, as I do !" 

*' lY como voy yo gustarmelo mejor que V™^* ? — How am I 
going to like that better than you ? 

"But my pantaloons will be soiled." 

" Y tambien los raios — i y que me importa k mi si se ensu- 
cien los pantalones de V*"^* o' no?" — And mine too — and what 
is it to me whether your pantaloons are soiled^ or not ? — So 
Manuel remained obstinate, and my friend was compelled to 
ride on. 

Gua"Gatambo was reached after a ride of a league through 
bushes and stunted algarrobo trees. We found a single house, 
built of adobes, standing in a barren spot, with two or three 
common ranchos near. A number of dogs, some pointers, 
hounds, and degenerate curs, came forward to meet us. The 
"mayordomo," almost as immoveable as Manuel himself, 
and three or four slaves, were sitting, or rather sprawling, be- 
fore the door, in idleness. Amongst them was a sprightly 

mulatto, from whom we learned that Mr. C was "en 

la sierra" — in the mountains — ^and that the horses were all 
<<en el monte" (a common thickly overgrown with bushes 
and small trees.) Disappointed in getting horses here, we ap- 
pealed to Manuel, and endeavored to persuade him to accom- 
pany us to Nepena, but in vain. Mr. B said he would 

keep the other horse, to which Manuel made no objection, 
but replied, " entonces me voy" — then I am going — and, 
walking his horse up to where the other was standing, struck 
it so smartly with the plaited end of his bridle, that Manuel 
and both horses went off at full gallop, leaving us to get back 
the best way we could. Though exercised at our expense, we 
could not but laugh at the dexterity of Manuel, who shouted 
from the edge of the woods, as he disappeared, " Adios! Ca- 
balleros, Adios !" 

It was near sunset, and we began to think seriously of eat- 



366 THREE TEARS IN TIIE PACIFIC. 

jng, but on requesting the "mayordomo" to give us some 
bread and cheese, he replied, " pan no hay, my patr6n" — there 
is no bread, my patron. Disappointed in this, we found, in 
one of the ranchos, a copper pan, half full of broiled ribs of 
pork, and a gourd of boiled corn, which the slaves had pre- 
pared for their suppers ; we partook of the food thus thrown 
in our way, and when our appetites were appeased, the mu- 
latto brought us animals to proceed to Nepefia, whither he vo- 
lunteered to be our guide. 

It was dark when we mounted on two donkeys and a mule, 
the guide riding with me on the latter animal. The road or 
path wound VI almost every direction through a "monte," 
sometimes plunging into close thickets, and again emerging 
into open spots, with here and there a lone algarrobo, or thorn 
bush, that cast a long shade over the ground, as the mcJbn was 
just rising. The distance is two leagues, and it was nine o'clock 
when we entered the streets of the village of Nepena. 

When we rode into the plaza, every thing was still, save a 
party of men and women who were singing and dancing to the 
tinlcling of a guitar on the opposite side of the square. The 
moon was shining clear and bright. We alighted at the house 
of the curate, for whom we had a letter of introduction, but 
he was not at home. Several persons came forward to see us, 
and we learned with satisfaction from one of them, that Mr. 
C had returned the previous evening from the " Sier- 
ra." He soon made his appearance, and carried us off to the 
house of his friend, Don Jose Manuel, where we were receiv- 
ed with the kindest hospitality. Don Jos6 was engaged at a 
game of " solas" with two or three friends ; his lady, and 
some of her female acquaintances, were chatting under the 
corridor, in front of the house. 

We were quickly supplied with the means of ablution and 
abstersion, though we had no handmaiden to perform for us 
these agreeable operations. A plentiful supper of steaks and 
eggs was spread for us, and in consideration of our fatigue, we 
were permitted to retire early. 

The next morning we walked over the whole pueblo before 



NOTICES OF PERU. 367 

breakfast, and afterwards conversed for an hour or two over 
our cigars, with our host, in the corridor. 

Don Jos6 was a man of good sense and considerable reading, 
and possessed of a fund of entertaining anecdotes. Speaking 
of politics, and the state of Peru, he observed, " the morale 
of the mass is not suited for a republican form of government. 
We want a Frederick II., or a Napoleon ; you were happy in 
having Washington amongst you. The Presidents of the Unit- 
ed States have always retired from office poorer than when 
they were elected. Our Presidents and their officers think only 
of enriching themselves. The army is a sort of parasite to the 
body of the people, and the officers of it are constantly striving 
to destroy each other. The lieutenant is opposed to the cap- 
tain ; the captain to the major ; the major to the colonel ; the 
colonel. to the general, and the general to the president. All 
cry, " libertad y la patria, y no piensan en mas que agarrar" — 
liberty and the country, and they only think of grasping. This 
expression was accompanied with a gesture more expressive 
than his words, his hand being spread out like the claw of a 
bird, and gradually closed as he drew it through the air. He 
added, "Los que hablan de la patria, son los picaros mas grandes 
en el Peru" — Those who talk of the country, are the greatest 
rogues in Peru. 

While we were conversing, the lady of Don Jos6 was en- 
gaged in a small ti^nda or shop, selling various articles of dry 
goods to the people of the place. Even by the most wealthy 
in Peru, the keeping a ti6nda is not deemed to be derogatory 
to their dignity, or standing in society. Don Jose is master of 
three hundred slaves and a sugar estate, and is estimated to be 
worth one hundred thousand dollars. 

About eleven o'clock we visited the curate. He was swing- 
ing in a hammock of Guayaquil grass, and smoking a cigar. 
He received us very cordially, and after offering us Italia and 
cigars, at once entered upon the subject of politics. He read 
us a representation that he had just made to the President, set- 
ting forth the propriety and necessity of annexing Nepena and 
its vicinity to the province of Chancay ; or in case this propo- 
sition should not be approved, to appoint a Prefect to rule over 



368 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

it, and allow it a representative in Congress. He assured us, 
that the alcaldes were so linked with the people, either by in- 
terest, relationship, or friendship, that it was next to an impos- 
sibility to obtain justice at their hands. From the conduct of 
the alcalde at Guambacho, I am disposed to think his observa- 
tion correct. 

The curate had been a chaplain in the army, both with Bo- 
livar and General Gamarra, and seemed therefore unwilling to 
express himself freely as to the probable result of the pending 
election. He said that General Gamarra had been his friend, 
and had rendered him essential services. "A man," said he, 
*' should wait till office seeks him, and not seek office : Gene- 
ral Gamarra was called by the voice of the people, and now 
the voice of the people seems to be calling on General Riva 
Aguero, and if he succeed to the presidency, it would be use- 
less for me, with my single arm, to oppose him because he is 
not my friend — my duty is to obey." 

He opened the church, and took to himself great credit for 
its cleanliness, and the improvements which he had made. The 
church is small, very plain, and contains nothing worthy of 
notice. The curate's house, adjoining to it, is of one story, and 
built of adobes ; it has a ground floor, and is furnished with a 
rough table, and a few rude high backed chairs. 

While on our visit, the worthy father received a note, and a 
pair of large gold buckles wrapt in paper. He said that they 
were sent with the governor's compliments, to see whether 
one of us would not purchase them. We declined, observing 
that they were too large for our fashions. He replied, that we 
could not do better than purchase them, as he would dispose 
of them cheap, and that we might sell them again in Lima to 
great advantage ! 

Nepefia is a small village of ranchos, built of mats and canes, 
and about a dozen adobe houses. Its population is estimated at 
fifteen hundred. The country around is watered by the river 
Guambacho and its branches. Sugar, rice, and maize, are its 
chief products. 

At one o'clock we again mounted, and returned to our boat 
by a shorter road than that we had travelled. The boat's crew 



NOTICES OF PERU. 369 

had returned from Guambacho in the morning. They reported 
that they had great difficulty to get any thing to eat in the 
pueblo, and that there was a strong disposition manifested to 
impose upon them, and cheat them of their money. According 
to their account, the widow Panehita was the only lady in the 
country. 

About half past five o'clock we launched our boat, and, after 
a long and tedious pull outside of the promontory that separates 
the two bays, we got on board. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Santa — Bathing — A prison scene — ^An execution. 

At one o'clock, P. M., on the 7th of March 1833, we an- 
chored in the Bay of Santa. 

We landed, and walked along the shore, stopping at the dif- 
ferent ranchos, (only six in all,) constructed by hanging flag 
mats on poles, forming a square divided into two or three apart- 
ments. In one we found the curate of Santa, attended by his 
mistress, a comely girl, of an Indian caste, and about eighteen 
years old. The padre was a short, stout man, with a round face 
and jaundiced eye. He told us that he had been suffering for a 
long time with the "tertiana," or intermittent fever, and had 
been recommended sea bathing as a dernier resort for his cure I 
This is not the only instance that has come in my way, of the 
priests violating their vows of celibacy. 

About half a mile from the usual landing place, were two 
ranchos, occupied by families who had taken up a temporary 
abode, for the advantage of sea bathing in the cases of some 
of their members. Several females were bathing ; and as they 
sprung up to avoid the rolling in of the surf, they gave way to 
the hilarity of youth on a narrow escape. Or they plunged into 
47 



370 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

it, and again emerged, like Venus of old, from the froth of the 
sea, in all their beauty. The youngest of the five bathers was 
a little girl, but eight years old, entirely naked, plunging and 
sporting in the breakers, with her long hair floating down 
her back. The symmetry and tournure of her little person 
were perfect. The next was thirteen, and had so far advanced 
into womanhood, as to conceal the lower part of her person 
in a petticoat. Her bosom was bare, white, and rounded, and 
made her represent more years than she possessed. The third 
was a matron of some twenty summers ; her person was hid- 
den in a calico dress, which was rent, and permitted the eye 
to discover at a glance the beauty of her bust. The other two 
were much further advanced in life, and attracted but little of 
our attention. 

An elderly lady sat upon the bank, smiling at the pranks of 
her sporting family, surrounded by half a dozen lean, lazy 
curs. The father was a long man, of about forty years old, 
with a grizzled beard of a week's growth. He wore a poncho 
and a straw hat. When we came up, he was seated in front of 
the rancho, silent and reflecting; and near him, a half dozen 
slattern, barefoot, half dressed black wenches, were preparing 
dinner. He came forward and saluted us: seeing our attention 
directed towards the bathers, he ordered chairs to the bank, 
and invited us to be seated. We soon entered into familiar con- 
versation, and though we were total strangers, and foreigners 
to boot, not one of the party appeared to be the least genS; and 
indeed, I have never seen these people, under any circum- 
stances, the least embarrassed by the sudden appearance of 
strangers amongst them. The young maids did not abate one 
jot of their mirth, nor endeavor to avoid our gaze. The old 
lady and gentleman seemed pleased with the scene, and the 
first laughed heartily, whenever her daughters were buried in 
the sea. 

After twenty minutes, we walked about a hundred yards 
further on, where there was a group seated on the shingle bank, 
and near the last rancho. Two old men were reclining on the 
stones, and a middle aged woman was sitting upon a pillion. 
She was of an Indian caste, and possessed a smiling, good hu- 



NOTICES OP PERU. 371 

mored face. One old man, who was dressed in a rusty, snuflf 
colored suit, had a bald crown, fringed round with a light 
growth of silvery hair. Time had made some inroads upon his 
sun burnt cheek, but his eye was still bright, and expressive 
of good nature and kindness of heart. His companion was 
some years younger. His dress was a blue jacket and trowsers ; 
the latter were of rather stinted longitude, but sat close to his 
well proportioned leg; his vest was striped, and secured by a 
single button, A bottle nose, and a pair of twinkling eyes, 
evinced the remains of humor. He had been evidently a bon 
vivant, and was doing penance, perhaps for the indiscretions 
of youth. When we drew near, the elder lady bowed her head 
and smiled, and both the gentlemen raised their hats, and sa- 
luted us with " buenas dias Caballeros," without changing their 
position in any manner. The bon vivant invited us to be seat- 
ed, saying, "though the stones are not the softest, yet we 
share what we have." We complied, and offered cigars to our 
new acquaintances; the lady, and the gentleman in the snuff 
colored suit, took one each, but the bon vivant moved his fin- 
ger before his face, from side to side, saying " no, muchas gra- 
cias, me haee dano ahora" — no, I thank you, it is injurious to 
me now. As is usual, we commenced the conversation with re- 
marks upon the weather, the pleasant situation of the raneho 
for the enjoyment of the sea breeze, and its convenience for 
bathing. The man in blue saw that we looked towards the 
bathers, and assenting to our remark, observed, " pero esa^ son 
jovenes y no valen nada," and expressed by a look all that his 
words did not convey. He admired our ship, and inquired 
whether there was not a general impatience amongst those liv- 
ing on board, to get on shore immediately after arriving in 
port. He dwelt upon the pleasures of the land after being at 
sea, and thought that it must be delightful to arrive at a great 
city like Lima, where there were so many amusements, the 
opera, the bull-bait, the cock-pit, the tertfilias, ** en fin, cuanto 
hay para distra6rse," — in fine, every thing to distract one from 
care. He added, that he had been there the last year, during 
the gay season, and had won something at Ghorillos. '< To an- 
chor in a place like Santa," he continued, " in these days, when 



372 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

it is ' triste/ and the place so in ruins, is not so pleasing — it is 
not as it was before it was destroyed by George Anson and 
Cocheran" — and he expressed something more by a shrug of 
the shoulders, which, however, it is impossible to interpret. He 
told us that he came from a place seventy leagues in the inte- 
rior, and spoke in enthusiastic terms of the richness of its soil, 
and its products. 

At this moment, two girls, who had been bathing, came 
dripping from the sea ; one, less than ten years old, was entire- 
ly naked; the other, about thirteen, who was in a colton dress, 
smiled, and saluted us with an inclination of the head, and 
hastily threw a woollen poncho over her shoulders. The young- 
er one hung down her head, and by her averted face, and side- 
long gait, evinced a degree of modesty at thus appearing before 
strangers in a state of nudity. The bon vivant laughed, and 
said, "Que! tu no tienes nada que tapar — si fulstes hombre, 
entonces si." — The little girl, however, did not agree with 
him, and glided behind her sister in the poncho, and soon slip- 
ped on her dress. 

A negress now announced dinner, and the good people in- 
vited us to join them ; but, being past our dining hour, we de- 
clined ; we took seats, however, in front of the rancho. 

A table, about two feet square, and a foot and a half high, 
was placed under the shade of the projecting I'oof. It was co- 
vered with a white cloth, and laid with several silver plates, 
andJieavy forks and spoons of the same metal. The pillions 
were spread round, and the good people seated themselves upon 
them. According to the general custom, a large dish was set 
in the centre of the table, from which every one helped him- 
self. The first was of boiled beef, dressed with a salad of toma- 
toes and onions. A variety of dishes succeeded it in turn, 
amongst which were rice, Quinoa, and potatoes, dressed with 
aji, which is one of those common mixtures termed picdntes ; 
this one is termed "papas con aji." 

Th€ children were seated round a pillion ; in its centre was 
placed a silver plate, out of which they fed themselves with 
their fingers. About three yards from the table was the 
kitchen, where the various materials of the meal were cooking 



NOTICES OF PERU. 373 

in their respective ^*ollas" or earthen crocks, supported on 
stones, with a fire beneath them. Two or three horses were 
standing near, dosing, and occasionally switching away the flies 
with their tails ; their bridles were hanging upon the ground, 
which is the only means usually adopted to secure a horse to 
any particular spot where the rider may dismount. These 
were the " rocines" or hacks ; but there was one animal, lighter 
limbed and sleeker than the rest, tethered by a lazo to a peg 
in the ground, that stood rubbing his head against a fore leg 
that was advanced before the rest, and now and then looking 
in upon the company. A philosophic looking borrico, with a 
clean face, peered his long head and great ears beneath the 
shed, and looked calmly upon what was going forward. A 
great blue cat was purring and rubbing her sides against the 
children, with her tail curved, and using all her eloquence to 
influence the charity of the little girls for a morsel of beef. 
With sneaking looks, and tails between their legs, a half dozen 
mongrel curs stole cautiously towards the table, and seated 
themselves at the elbows of their masters. I thought they 
took advantage of company to draw near, for so soon as they 
were perceived, and slightly reprimanded, they slunk away, 
but took the first opportunity to resume their places. 

We sat there nearly an hour, smoking, chatting, and occa- 
sionally joining in the potations of the ^^chicha de maiz," 
■which was served in silver tankards. The bon vivant told 
us, that the old lady had been recommended to visit the sea 
-shore, "to breathe the air," and that he had come to bathe, 
** porque tenijl la sarna y me rasgaba mucho — aun no me dej6 
-dormir de noche"-^for I had the itch, and scratched much — 
I scarcely could sleep at night; but I am now cured, though 1 
am still afraid to drink chieha or smoke cigars. 

Impressed with a favorable idea of the hospitality of our 
new acquaintances, which is, out of the large cities, proverbial 
along the whole coast, we bade them farewell. On our way 
back to the landing, we passed over an ancient burying place 
of the Indians, which has been pretty generally turned up by 
visiters in search of huaqueros or earthen vessels, found in the 
graves. The whole surface is strewed with skulls and bones, 



374 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

bleaching in the sun, which receive many a kick by the idle 
passers by. The back part of these skulls is almost vertical, 
and rises quite abruptly from the great liole at the base. The 
left side is generally much more prominent than the right. 
The forehead is narrow and retreating; and the line of the face 
is quite as perpendicular as that of the European. 

The bay of Santa, situated in 8° 52' of south latitude, is a 
mere roadstead, defended from the prevailing winds by a high 
bluff on the south. The valley is comparatively fertile, and 
yields rice and sugar in considerable quantities, and large 
herds of cattle are grazed, and sold in the Lima market. A 
little to the south is a small lagoon, filled with most excellent 
mullet, which we judged, from their large size and great num- 
bers, had not been disturbed previous to our visit. There are 
other lagoons in the neighborhood, abounding with ducks, 
snipe, and water hens. The lagoons owe their origin to a 
small rivulet which passes the town to the north, called Santa 
river, which occasionally overflows its banks. Algarrobo and 
espino trees grow closely along its shores, forming thickets, 
which are visited by deer. These features of the country are 
quite sufficient to account for the intermittent fevers which 
prevail through the year, and for which the padre before men- 
tioned was indebted to the kind attentions of his Dulcinea. 
The valley contains many of the ancient mounds,, termed hu- 
acas, and a fortress of the Grand Chimu, who for some time 
made head against the Incas, previous to his fall. The graves 
of the aborigines in this part of the country resemble those 
near Arica, but appear to have been made with more care, for 
some of them are square chambers about six feet deep, and four 
on each side, walled up with small adobes. 

The town of Santa, which is situated about three miles from 
the beach, is laid out with a regularity that is characteristic of 
all Spanish towns, and the architecture is the same as that of 
Lima. Its streets have a lonely deserted appearance, and are 
much more than sufficiently extended for the present small 
population, which does not exceed eight or nine hundred souls. 
Santa was once much more populous, but change of govern- 
ment and war have reduced it to its present condition. In for- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 375 

mer times, the town stood upon the shore ; but in consequence 
of its being sacked in 1685 by the English buccaneers, it was 
moved to its present site, to avoid the frequent descents, made 
at different periods by the enemies of Spain, along the whole 
coast. But here it did not escape, for in 1761, the river on 
which it stands overflowed its banks, and reduced the place 
nearly to a mass of mud ! 

At the house of a native, who is one of the magnates of the 
land, and who keeps a mistress, and an immense baboon for 
her amusement, without exciting the scandal of the neighbors, 
(which may be owing to the absence of the practice of tea- 
drinking,) I became acquainted with a gentleman named Don 
Jose. Previous to the revolution, he was possessed of a million 
of dollars, and lived only to enjoy it. Loyal in his principles, 
in 1823 he hastily got together eighty thousand hard dollars, 
determined to leave the country till the troubles should pass 
over. This money he was carrying to Guanchaco, to embark, 
when it was seized by the patriot chiefs, and spent in the ser- 
vice of the country. Fearing that he might be drawn upon for 
larger amounts, and for this reason, desirous of conciliating the 
patriot ofiBcers, he kept open house, and for the amusement of 
his friends, Ijept a gambling table, at which he constantly lost. 
At last, almost ruined, he closed his establishment, the conse- 
quence of v^^hich was, that he was accused of being favorable 
to Ferdinand, and was obliged to fly for safety. He was hunted 
for several years, and after the Spanish flag had disappeared 
from South America, he made his appearance, and found his 
immense fortune reduced to about thirty thousand dollars. Don 
Jos6 told me, that even now he is afraid to express an opinion 
about political matters, on account of the strong prejudice that 
universally prevails against Spaniards. He therefore almost 
constantly resides upon his estate, where he grazes large herds 
of cattle, which are sold in the Lima market, i 

One morning, while at Santa, I was attracted by an assem- 
blage of about a dozen persons around two or three horsemen 
in the plaza, which was an unusual sight in this lonely spot. 
They were in front of what is termed the "cdrcel," or jail. 
Before a door made of thick wooden bars, forming a grating. 



376 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

through which we saw about a half dozen prisoners, in a dirty 
obscure room, the group was assembled. One of the prisoners 
held two of the bars above his head with his hands, and leaned 
his chin against the door, looking out upon the plaza, while the 
latter part of his body projected backwards. He was a savage 
looking fellow, with sturdy limbs, and blood shot eyes; his 
dress consisted of a white shirt and trowsers, one leg of which 
was rolled up to his knee. Another was seated on the ground, 
leaning his back against the wall, while his head hung forward 
on his breast, with a striped handkerchief tied round it; his 
legs were crossed, as they extended before him, and his hands 
were clasped together upon his lap, with their palms turned 
forward ; in addition to his shirt and trowsers, the latter spat- 
tered with mud, he wore a dark poncho knotted round his 
waist. The other prisoners were walking back and forth in 
silence. 

The horsemen were clothed in large green ponchos, Guaya- 
quil hats tied under the chin, and armed with pistols and short 
spears; and each had a dragoon's sabre, in a metal scabbard, 
dangling at his side. Their horses hung their heads like wearied 
animals, and if their muddy limbs had not been sufficient, the 
long beards of their riders clearly proved that they had but just 
returned from a long journey. A stout old man in a gingham 
jacket, with a round face and little gray whiskers, stood con- 
versing with one of them, while the other was arranging a 
paper cigar, and striking fire by aid of a machero. The respect 
paid by all present, and a large Molluca stick, with a ponder- 
ous gold head, which he held in his hand, and occasionally 
moved to support his arguments, declared him to be no other 
than the Alcalde of Santa. One horse stood without a rider, 
the reins lying on the ground, and a lazo by his side. The 
prisoner had been brought in upon this animal, secured by tying 
his legs together with the lazo. 

The whole turn out, I soon discovered, was to see a murder- 
er, who had been just brought in by the mounted " vigilantes." 
The prisoner had eluded an almost constant search, all over the 
country, during more than a year, and was at last brought to 
the town to show that escape, under such a crime, was impos- 



NOTICES OP PERU. 377 

sible even in Peru. The conversation between the alcalde and 
the "vigilante," was upon the best mode of keeping securely 
a prisoner, who had murdered his patron under most aggravated 
circumstances. The only plan which occurred to them, was to 
mount guard constantly before the door, because manacles or 
shackles they had none. Curiosity led me to look a second time 
in the cdrcel, to see the prisoner, who, I concluded, was the de- 
jected looking man sitting against the wall, but to my astonish- 
ment I was told that the murderer was he who was leaning 
his chin against the grated door. I instinctively drew back to 
gaze upon the wretch ; he smiled, and extending his hand 
through the door, said, *' de me un real para comprar cigarros" 
— which, with tone and manner taken into account, translated, 
is, "give me a real to buy cigars, and be d d to you !" 

About two months after this event, I was passing through 
the streets of the capital, and was attracted by a mulatto, walk- 
ing slowly along, tolling a little table bell in one hand, and 
carrying a silver plate in the other, containing several small 
pieces of money. I asked him what it meant. He replied, that 
he was collecting alms to pay for misas and the " mortage" of 
a man who was "in capilla," and who was to be shot at ten 
o'clock. A prisoner is said to be "in capilla," when he is se- 
parated, after being sentenced, from the rest of the prisoners in 
the cdrcel, and only allowed communication with his immediate 
friends, and confessor. 

I hastened to the plaza to witness the execution, the manner 
of which was almost new to me. The portdles presented their 
usual appearance. A hollow square of troops was drawn up 
just in front of the Bishop's palace, resting on their arms, and 
some forty or fifty spectators, mostly idle boys or negroes, 
were standing around. On a nearer approach, I discovered, at 
one end of the hollow square, an old negro with a grizzled 
head, dressed in a short jacket, and full bottomed bragas open 
at the knee, standing upon one leg, while the other crossed it 
and rested the toe upon the ground ; his left hand grasped the 
top of a square post planted in the ground, having a small 
board about two feet high nailed in front of it, and his right 
hung by his side, holding a white handkerchief folded like a 
48 



378 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

cravat. Over the top of the post were laid a white fillet and 
two or three strips of hide about a fathom long. Presently, an 
officer at the head of a small guard entered the hollow square, 
and as he marched round with his sword drawn, repeated seve- 
ral times in a loud voice, << Juan Mendez is doomed to die for 
murder; if any person can offer a reason why he should be par- 
doned, let him speak." — All remained silent. 

In a few minutes a chanting was heard, and the prisoner, 
supported by two friars, attended by others, and guarded by 
twenty soldiers, advanced slowly into the plaza from the street 
leading to the prison. When he had nearly reached the place 
of execution, the troops were ordered to shoulder arms, and a 
body of cavalry issued from the palace, and formed outside the 
infantry, completely surrounding them. The prisoner halted 
in front of the troops. He was much emaciated, but I recog- 
nised, in his strong frame and bloodshot eyes, as they wander- 
ed round the scene before him, the murderer that I had seen 
at Santa. He knelt down, and the executioner, that the reader 
has already guessed to be the negro in bragas, blindfolded him 
with the handkerchief which he held in his hand. The padres, 
who were chanting the whole time, raised him and led him to 
the post, where he again knelt for a moment, and then, with 
much composure, took the seat which was prepared for him. 
The executioner passed the hide cords round his arms and 
body, and secured it to the post, and then bound his head back 
with the white fillet : — the padres crying, in a lugubrious tone, 
all the time, " Misericordia! Misericordia !" not, however, as 
if they really desired it, but mechanically, as if they did it as 
a trade. At a motion of the sword of the commanding officer, 
after all had been adjusted, four soldiers wheeled out from the 
ranks, and at another signal, fired, though not simultaneous- 
ly ; the prisoner fell, and hung by the middle to the post, with 
his head and feet touching the ground. A friend advanced 
with the "mortage," or grave clothes, and the crowd rushed 
forward, anxious to see the body. The troops quickly retired, 
and in two minutes the padres had disappeared, and only four 
persons, besides the executioner, were standing near the spot 
of the execution. The body was untied and laid on the ground, 



NOTICES OF PERU. 379 

and a plate laid upon the breast, into which several " cuarti- 
llos" were thrown. In this situation, I am told, the bodies of 
malefactors are frequently exposed for many hours, to obtain 
alms from the passers-by to pay the expenses of interment. 

To judge from this instance, public punishment for crime is 
useless in Lima ; for not more than eighty persons, besides the 
troops, witnessed the execution — indeed the plaza appeared to 
be as gay during the whole scene as if nothing unusual was 
going forward. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



Huanchaco — Balsas — Landing — ^Port — ^Road to Truxlllo — The Grand Chimu, 
and his war with the Incas— City of Truxillo — "El Quipos del Chimu"^ 
A nunnery and a nun — Pacasmayo — Spinning — Ride to San Pedro — A Go- 
vernor — A Colonel — Hospitable reception. 

Huanchaco, or Guanchaco, is situated in 8° 4' south lati- 
tude, close to the beach, upon which the sea breaks with so 
much violence that the ordinary boats of a ship cannot land, 
even when the ocean is most tranquil. The anchorage is about 
two miles distant, and communication is held with the shore 
by large launches, and a peculiar kind of balsa, made of straw, 
which the fishermen call "caballito," from the manner they 
ride upon it through the breakers. It consists of two large 
bundles of straw or rushes, made of a conical shape, bound 
close together, leaving a small space or hole towards the large 
end, in which small parcels are sometimes carried ; the apex 
of the cone is turned up in a slender point, like the toes of the 
shoes worn by our great-great-grand-mammas, in times of old. 
The bals6ro sits astride this little vessel or caballito when in 
the surf, for better security, and when he gains the open sea, 
h la Turque, in the hollow or space just mentioned. A straw 



3S0 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

hat, a coarse shirt and trowsers, form his dress, and he manages 
his "little horse" with a double paddle instead of rein. 

On the morning after our arrival, we pulled towards the 
shore, to meet a launch that was making its way slowly to the 
ship, and thus save as much time as possible. After we had 
got on board, her head was turned again to the shore, and 
we soon found ourselves in the rollers. When fairly in the 
breakers, foaming and boiling fiercely enough, the oars were 
held up perpendicularly, ready to be put in the water again if 
occasion should require, and the timoneer, an old Indian, guid- 
ed her, as she swept high on the top of a roller swiftly towards 
the beach, and just before she touched, brought her bows to 
the sea, and the next moment three or four Indians waded to 
the stern of the boat, having one shoulder saddled with a sheep 
skin, on which the passengers were ridden ashore. The Indian 
holds the feet of his rider in his hands, while the latter holds 
by the other's head, to prevent himself from sliding oflf. For 
this piece of service each passenger paid a real. 

At difierent places along the coast, as far as eye could reach, 
the line of the breakers was sprinkled with fishermen, mounted 
on their caballitos, engaged in their vocation, now mounting 
high on the foamy crest of a sea, like a great water fowl, now 
sinking from sight in the hollow of the waves, or whirled about 
in the eddies; and again, by aid of the double paddle, regain- 
i,. g their positions. 

The Indians that were on the ghore, were rather short, stout, 
of a sleek copper color, with small black eyes, set well apart, 
coarse black hair, cut close, except a small tuft or topknot in 
the middle of the forehead, and temple locks hanging down to 
a line with the lower part of the ear. They wore coarse white 
shirts and trowsers, the latter rolled high above the knee, 
showing their most sturdy limbs. They were employed carry- 
ing bales of goods from the launches that were being discharg- 
ed, or loading oihers with sugar and bales of tobacco. 

The port of Guanchaco consists of a store house, a church, 
which is the general land mark, and about a dozen or two of 
huts and small houses. The city of Truxillo, or Trujillo accord- 
ing to the latest orthography of the Spanish Academy, is about 



NOTICES OF PERU. 381 

;seven miles off, though probably not more than a league in a 
"direct line from the sea. 

The road is tolerably good, and passes by many huacas, and 
,the ruins of the ancient town of Chimu, named after the king, 
who was called the Grand Chimu, the lord of the valleys, 
Parmunca, Huallmi (now Guarmey), Santa, Huanapu, or Gu- 
^nape, and Chimu, or Chimo. He is represented to have been 
a haughty prince, very successful in war, and much feared by 
the neighboring nations. His subjects worshipped various 
Jieasts, and birds, and fishes, for some peculiar virtue or trait 
in their habits ; as the lion and tiger for their fierceness ; the 
condor for its size ; the owl for its wonderful sight, being able 
•to see at night, and the dog for his loyalty. 

In the reign of Pachacutec, who died in 1423, the Incas 
carried their arms, under the command of Inca Yupanqui, 
his son, and his uncle, Capac Yupanqui (whom the king call- 
ed his right arm), into the dominions of the Grand Chimu, 
to force him and his vassals to renounce their idols, and wor- 
ship the sun, the God of the Incas. 

Inca Yupanqui advanced as far as the valley of Rimac, and 
while waiting there for some reinforcements from the south, 
•sent ambassadors to the Grand Chimu, to declare the will of 
the Inca, and to offer clemency in case of submission. The 
powerful and Grand Chimu replied that he was ready to die 
with arms in his hands, in defence of his country, laws, and 
customs, and desired no new gods ; and that the Inca must 
jest satisfied with this answer, for he would never give any 
other. 

War was begun, and waged with great fury on both sides, 
i'or some of the ancient enemies of Chimu joined the Incas for 
the sake of revenge. The inhabitants of Santa and the valley 
of Chimu, where this proud king held his court, were more 
warlike than the rest, so that the contest was more fierce and 
'bloody than giny that occurred during the long dynasty of the 
/children of the sun. At last the haughty king was forced to 
•yield, and the Inca generously left him the government of his 
valleys, saying that he did not wish to despoil him of his do- 



382 THREE VEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

main, but to raise him and his vassals from their low state of 
idolatry, and to improve their laws.* 

The huacas of Chimu have yielded more treasures and curi- 
ous antiquities than those of any other of the Peruvian valleys. 
Large amounts in gold and silver have been extracted at dif- 
ferent periods. Among many of these antiquities, I was shown 
a fore-arm and hand of gold, found several years since ; it was 
about six inches long, hollow, without any seam, and had three 
holes on one side, and a single one opposite, like those in the 
joint of a flageolet, and it was supposed to have been used as a 
musical instrument. 

The city of Truxillo, (now known in public documents by 
the name of Libertad), stands in a sandy plain, about two 
leagues to the northward of Guanchaco, and about a league 
from the sea. It was founded in 1535, soon after the founding 
of Lima, by Don Francisco Pizarro, and called after the city 
of his birth in Estremadura in Spain. The streets are of a 
convenient breadth, and intersect each other at right angles ; 
but from the nature of the soil, and being badly paved, they 
are dusty and dirty. Many of the houses are built of adobes, 
two stories high, having balconies looking into the streets and 
interior courts, resembling Lima in all respects. The po- 
pulation does not exceed six thousand. The city is surrounded 
by an adobe wall, intended in former times to repel the at- 
tacks of Indians. The city contains a cathedral, two convents 
of nuns, and a hospital. Lately, a newspaper, under the title 
of "El Quipos del Chimu," printed on a sheet of foolscap, 
headed with a phoenix rising from the flames, and the motto, 
"Sin ilustracion en los ciudadanos, ni severidad en los man- 
datarios son nulas las Republicas," is published every Saturday, 
at a real each number, or at the rate of six dollars a year. 
The editor announces, that all articles intended for publication 
must be presented before Thursday of the week, if their pub- 
lication be desired for the following Saturday ; this illustrates 
the activity of the press in this city. The " Quipos" contains 
the public decrees, items of foreign news, commercial adver- 

* Garcilaso. Herrera. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 383 

tisements, but the greater part is filled with personal wrangles 
and vituperation. 

The title and the phoenix are both fanciful and classic, for 
Quipos is the name of a register of important events, composed 
of a variety of different colored strings and knots, that was 
kept by the ancient Peruvians, and the phcenix is symbolic of 
the city of Liberty rising out of the ruins of the ancient Chimu, 
which are in the immediate vicinity. 

Truxillo was formerly the residence of several nobles, who 
held lucrative offices under the Spanish government. Tar- 
ralla, in his satire, entitled, *'Lima por dentro y fuera," says^ 
that it was "poverty enclosed in walls," and for want of mo- 
ney, that articles were bartered in the market place, 

" Que en la plaza se permutan, 
Harina y came por huevos, 
Por pan, frutas y verduras 
Y tambien gatos por perros." 

Though the country immediately surrounding the city is 
sandy and barren a few miles from the sea, the valley is rich 
in sugar cane, corn, and wheat. In a report made to the gene- 
ral government of Peru, by the governor of Huanchaco, in 
July 1833, it is stated, that the province yielded for the past 
year 20,000 fanegas of wheat, valued at 53,000 dollars, and 
from the fostering care of the government being extended to 
agriculture, the quantity would be in all probability very much 
increased. The chief wealth of this part of Peru consists in 
the products of the mines. Large amounts of uncoined silver, in 
spite of the prohibition, are smuggled on board of men-of-war 
that stop at this port for this purpose. 

One morning I paid a visit to a convent of nuns, that is un- 
der the holy protection and patronage of Santa Carmen. On 
one side of the building is a small square hall, leading from 
the street to an interior court, which was closed. A dumb 
waiter or turning wheel is placed on one side of the hall, 
which conveys things in and out of the apartments occupied 
by the nuns, without any of them being seen. While I was 
there, many servants arrived with baskets of fruit, sweetmeats. 



384 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIPICV 

and various presents, that were placed on the wheel, and re- 
ceived on the inside by a female with a sweet voice. She 
heard me speaking, and inquired who the stranger was, and 
then asked me, whether I was a Christian, and how I liked 
Peru. I told her, that it was an interesting country, though I 
thought Truxillo very dull, and I ventured to inquire, whether 
she did not sometimes feel a want of society. She replied, 
"jamas ! somos veinte, todas esposas de nuestro Senor Jesu 
Christo, y que otra felicidad podemos desear !"- — Never, we 
are twenty, all wives of our Lord Jesus Christ, and what other 
happiness can we desire ! She sent me out a scapulary, which 
she bid me wear as an amulet for the sake of Nuestra Senora 
del Carmen, and for which 1 returned some silver in charity, 
and asked how long she had been a nun. Imagination pictured 
her to be young, and of course beautiful, because she had a 
sweet voice ; but the romance vanished, when she told me that 
she had taken the veil more than thirty years back, at the age 
of seventeen ! 

On the corner of the convent is the chapel, which is open 
to the public. The interior is tastefully decorated, and almost 
hidden in gilded mouldings and panels. On the side next the 
convent, are holes about a foot square, covered with a tin per- 
forated plate, through which the nuns whisper their confessions 
to the priests, who occupy the confessionals placed immediate- 
ly below. 

Leaving Truxillo at midnight, we anchored the next day be- 
fore the port of Pacasmayo, situated about fifty miles to the 
northward. We landed, as at Huanchaco, in a launch. The port 
consists of a half dozen ranchos, built on the sand, of reeds and 
flag, without door or window, inhabited by Indians, who are 
exclusively employed in fishing with their caballitos. They 
use small cast nets, by which they obtain almost their only 
food. In one of the ranchos, an old woman was spinning after 
a very primitive fashion. She was seated on the ground, h la 
Tiirque, with a roll of nicely picked cotton enclosed in paper, 
and supported on three sticks, forming a kind of tripod. Her 
dress was a woollen petticoat, and a shawl of coarse blue baize ; 
her face was wrinkled, and her head gray. The cotton was 



NOTICES OF PERU. 385 

drawn out into a thread with the fingers, which were occasion- 
ally rubbed on a large lump of chalk beside her, and twisted 
by aid of a stick, having one end pointed, and on the other a 
heavy button, that was set in motion by a dexterous twist of 
the fingers, and the weight kept it revolving for some time. As 
the thread was spun, it was wrapped on the stick that per- 
formed the office of a spindle. In the same rancho, several sea 
stars were roasting on the coals, and a young Indian was eat- 
ing one with ajl, which was contained in a small gourd, A lit> 
tie to the northward, is a small stream of fresh water, on whose 
banks grow some small trees, which are the only relief from 
the reflection of the fine white sand. 

One of the persons whom we met in the port, was a young 
man with black hair, dressed in a short jacket and pantaloons 
of white, and without stockings. This personage very courte- 
ously introduced himself to us as a lieutenant of the navy, and 
offered his assistance to procure us horses to ride to San Pedro, 
the chief town in the province, distant two leagues. Our party 
consisted of three persons. After some delay, four horses were 
brought forward, but only three saddles could be found, and 
our compagnons de voyage would be three, so that we made 
six in all. One animal was a little lean pony, about four feet 
high, and it somehow happened that he fell to the longest 
legged man in company. In place of a saddle, a fragment of a 
rug was folded and placed on his back, and the owner of the 
animal insisted upon riding a ancas or en croupe. The other 
chargers were, to judge from appearances, descendants either 
in direct line, or from a branch of the renowned Bocinante, for 
they seemed to possess all the spirit of their sire, and not a jot 
more. I was fortunate, and had an entire horse to myself, so 
that we set off" for the pueblo. 

Our route lay over deep sand, that did not retain the tracks 
of our animals, and after a mile, we found ourselves amongst 
drifting sand hills, which are common in several places along 
the coast. Here the fellow-traveller of our long legged friend 
got down, and took to his own legs, in preference to being 
longer dandled on the sharp rear of the hard trotting pony. 
Seeing him toiling through the sand, I, in sheer compassion, 
49 



386 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

gave him a seat behind me. In this way we got through the 
sand, and came out upon hard ground, planted with low cedars 
and willow. The road then passed through rice fields, which 
were overflowed from a neighboring acequia. 

About one o'clock, under a burning sun, vve entered the 
pueblo of San Pedro, which consists of an assemblage of adobe 
houses and ranches, sufiicient in number to accommodate about 
five hundred inhabitants. It rejoices in a small church, a bil- 
liard table, and a gambling house, where we found several 
groups engaged at cards and monte-al-dao, for reales and dol- 
lars. 

We paid a visit to the governor, a short fat man of the In- 
dian caste, who unites in his person the offices of captain of 
the port, tailor, and shopkeeper. A little band-box of a room, 
with a counter in front, formed his tienda, which was stored 
with American cottons, coarse cloth, white wax, candles, hard- 
ware, besides sundry cheeses suspended in little nets from the 
ceiling. His sitting room was furnished with three leather 
backed chairs, a low table, four tumblers, and a black bottle, 
from which he regaled us with a potation of pisco and water. 
He was warm in praise of the quiet of San Pedro, and men- 
tioned, in proof of its prosperous condition, that a piano had 
been lately imported, which was the delight of " todas las don- 
cellas del pueblo," — the delight of all the maids in the place. 
In spite of the apparent want of comfort, he received us with 
great cordiality, and presented us with cigars, and had fire 
brought in a silver brazero of fine filigree in the form of a bird. 
This *' filigrana" of silver, as it is termed, is manufactured at 
Huamanga, or Ayacucho, by the Indians, into a variety of 
baskets, birds, &c., which are very beautiful, and many have 
been carried to Europe and the United States, by travellers, as 
curiosities. 

Our friend the "teniente," invited us to visit his cousins, 
one of whom, he told us, was married to a lieutenant-colonel, 
and we consequently concluded that they were of the ton. We 
found his cousins, three young ladies, sleeping on the estrada, 
(part of the room raised about a foot above the level of the 
floor,) on mats, with their bare arms for pillows. On our en- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 387 

trance, the aunt shook the girls, saying, "levantate, nina, 
aqui hay gente" — get thee up, there are people here ! The 
cousins-roused themselves, and threw their hair over their bare 
shoulders with a shake of (he head, and concealed their busts 
in shawls, which they hastily put on, but without an air of sur- 
prise or embarrassment. They smiled, and said that they had 
fallen asleep in consequence of the heiat. At the other end of 
the room sat a thin little man, with black eyes, mustaches, and 
a long beard, in his shirt sleeves, busily employed in making 
paper cigars. He only bowed his head, but did not speak, and 
continued his employment. The aunt, after a communication 
in a whisper from the "tenidnte," pressed us to take dinner 
with them. While it was preparing, the girls sang and played 
the guitar, and exerted themselves to amuse us. There were 
two or three children sitting by the window, studying their 
lessons from a catechism, and a work on Christian morality ! 

Our dinner consisted of stewed chickens, roasted lamb, boiled 
eggs, rice, and a rout of "pucheros," ''papas con aji," onions, 
cheese, and garlic, with a desert of melted "chancaca" and 
bread. Before dinner, the man who was employed making ci- 
gars disappeared, and we learned that he was the lieutenant- 
colonel, and did not dine in consequence of indisposition. 

About three o'clock, we took leave of our hospitable friends, 
well pleased with our reception and kind treatment, and re- 
turned on board ship. 



388 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



Lambayeque Roads — Derivation of the name of tl)e Pacific — Landing — San 
Jos^ — Balsa — Ride to Lambayeque — Plaza — The Capus, a dress worn pre- 
vious to the Conquest — A curious currency— The Church — A morning 
visit — Chicharias — Huacas — Chicha — Gourds — Indians — Town — Products 
— Visit Ciiiclayo — Factoria de Tobacos — Soap making — Tanning — Palm 
Sunday — Return to Lambayeque — Passion week — Scenes at the Chicharia 
and Billiard room — Mode of embarking. 

On the 22d of March 1833, we arrived in the roadstead of 
Lambayeque, situated in 6° 47' of south latitude, and anchored 
about six miles from the beach. The anchorage is unprotected 
by either point or headland, so that it is much like anchoring 
in the open ocean, particularly when a fog covers the distant 
shore. In any other part of the world it would be dangerous ; 
but here, where storms are unknown, and the breezes blow 
steadily from one direction nearly throughout the year, it is 
done with impunity. "This south sea," says the worthy 
Fray Calancha, "is called the Pacific, because, in comparison 
with the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, the Red Sea, and the 
Persian Gulf, its storms are less violent and fewer, and its 
calm is more tranquil. It is also called the sea of drunkards, 
because a drunken man might navigate in it, and if a vessel be 
ever lost, it is entirely owing to the ignorance of the pilot, for 
the navigation is safe, unless he go where he should not. Both 
ocean and ships are ruled over by five beautiful stars in the 
form of a cross — a happy prognostic of a holy domination over 
sea and land — at the sight of which the devil, even when most 
enraged, retreats, and leaves all in tranquillity !" But the poet 
Peralta, more gallantly at least, even if less devoutly, attri- 
butes the tranquillity of the Pacific to the mild spirit of its em- 
press, Amphitrite, who, according to him, rules this ocean. 

" Pacifica Amphitrite magestuosa 
Domina en Throno rara vez turbado ; 



NOTICES Of PERU. 389 

Que solo alii de su Deidad und6sa 
El descuydo «s despojo lainentado ; 
Con que de sus espumas la violencia 
Del error es castigo no inclemencia !"* 

Whether the cross of brilliant stars or the goddess keeps 
away tempests, I must leave to the decision of those who are 
more deeply skilled in the reading of the heavens, though I 
hope the goddess may not be cheated of her empire, since she 
is so beneficent to sailors. 

Soon after anchoring, we took a whale boat and pulled in 
for the town, in hopes of getting on board of a balsa, which we 
saw under sail close to the shore, and which we conjectured 
was steering for the beach ; but on coming up with her, we 
found she was standing out with goods for a brig loading for 
Callao. Loath to return after so long a pull, we determined to 
attempt the landing in our boat, though extremely hazardous, 
froni the heavy surf that constantly lashes the beach ; we did 
not apprehend much danger, as the boat had twice landed on 
former occasions without the least difficulty. We rowed boldly 
Into the breakers, and though they boiled fiercely around us, 
we met with nothing that caused us to regret our undertaking, 
till within a hundred yards of the sand; then the steering oar 
was wrenched from the hands of our timoneer. Now deprived 
In a great measure of the means of managing the boat, she 
came broadside to the sea, which rushed leaping and foaming 
and roaring towards us, as if exulting in our danger. We 
found ourselves in the most imminent peril; and one of our 
party cried out, " It is all up with us — ^that sea must turn us 
over." 

" Not so fast," exclaimed our timoneer. " Now boys for 
your lives !-^give way your starboard oars, and back the lar- 
board — and no crab catching 1" The order was obeyed with 
precision, and the stern of the boat almost instantly was op- 
posed to the approaching sea, but not soon enough to avoid the 
spray, which drenched us pretty thoroughly. The boat mount- 



* Lima Fundada. Canto I. st. xx. p. 10. 



390 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

ed on the crest of the wave ; the oars were at rest, and the next 
moment we lay safely upon the sand. 

At this season, many families are here from the town, for 
the benefit and pleasure of sea bathing. More than a hundred 
persons, men, women, and children, ran to the beach, spring- 
ing over the balsa logs strewed in every direction, to see us 
land. Some were impelled by curiosity to examine our boat, 
never before having seen one, except at a distance, and others, 
who had sympathized with us in peril, shouting for us to turn 
back long before we were within ear-shot, now came to re- 
prove us for our temerity. "Que temeridad ! exponerse la 
vida para nada !" — What temerity ! to expose life for nothing ! 
said one. 

" Unos Calaveras sin duda !" — Some rattlepates, doubtless ! 
cried another. 

<' Valgame Dios ! no lo hago yo por diez mil pesos !" — The 
Lord preserve us ! I would not do it for ten thousand dollars ! 
exclaimed a third ; but the young damsels spent their admira- 
tion on the boat. <'Que buen bote! que bonito parecia, en 
la ola ! que bien andabal" — What an excellent boat ! How 
beautiful she appeared on the wave ! How well she sailed ! 
Indeed, many a boat has been lost here, and money cannot in- 
duce these people either to embark or land in any thing but a 
balsa. Seeing us dripping like river gods, several of the good 
people came forward, thanking Heaven that we were safe, and 
offered us a change of clothes; but our valise having escaped 
being wet, we declined the offer, though we were fain to ac- 
cept a potation of pisco to keep out the cold. 

Our boat was again launched, in spite of protestations, and 
being very buoyant, was soon forced through the breakers, and 
pulling away for the ship. 

There are a few huts and store houses built upon the shore, 
which together form the town of San Jose. The town of Lam- 
bayeque stands about six miles to the northward and west- 
ward. 

The balsa used here, differs from that of Coquimbo, Cobija, 
Arica, or Huanchaco ; it consists of a raft of large logs, of a 
very light species of wood that grows near Guayaquil. They 



NOTICES OF PERU. 391 

are secured together by ropes, and a mast is fixed near the 
centre, on which a square sail is set. The balsa is managed by 
six or eight Indians, and used for landing and embarking car- 
goes for vessels, for fishing, and many sail as far north as Guaya- 
quil, with cargoes of dry goods. Some are employed carrying 
salt from Sechura to Paita, and sometimes go as far as thirty 
and forty miles from the coast. They beat along by standing 
off all day with the sea breeze, and laying on all night with 
the land wind, which succeed each other very regularly. 
Their progress is much more rapid than could be possibly 
conjectured from a simple examination of their structure. At 
this port they always land, sailing directly upon the beach, 
and if not required for immediate use, are at once taken apart, 
because the breakers very soon dash them to pieces. 

Wet as we were, we mounted our horses, and in a few mi- 
nutes put spur for the town of Lambayeque. The road lies 
over an irregular plain, winding amongst sand hills and abori- 
ginal mounds ; the only vegetation upon it are a species of 
thorn tree called aroma, and the everywhere pervading algar- 
robo tree. About s6ven o'clock we entered the town, amidst 
the noisy salutations of hosts of dogs, that were roused from 
their slumbers at almost every step ; they seem to enjoy great 
privileges, and to judge from the fact, that there is a strong 
sympathy between poverty and dogs, it might be conjectured 
that this town rejoices in a number of poor inhabitants. Bells 
were ringing and dogs were barking as we passed through 
the streets, while numerous little groups of slattern women and 
children were assembled at the doors. We alighted at the 
house of a gentleman of the country, who had travelled in Eu- 
rope, and who speaks English very well, but we found that 
he was absent in the Sierra, on a visit to some of the mines. 
According to a previous agreement with him, we took posses- 
sion of the house, and in a very few minutes put the servants 
into requisition, to prepare our supper and beds. 

While at tea, several neighboring gentlemen, and two of our 
countrymen, residing here, came in ; we passed all the evening 
in the house, conversing with our guests, one of whom (a na- 
tive) we found to be very intelligent in the history of the 



392 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

country, besides possessing very correct notions in regard to 
Europe and the United States. 

The conversation turned upon the conquest of Mexico and 
Feru, and our friend, Don Francisco, who, by the way, was 
as thin and as dry as Don Quixote himself, was very warm in 
the praise of Cortez and Pizarro. He defended the latter in the 
part he took in the death of Atahualpa the Inca, who was, ac- 
cording to him, an usurper, and deserving of his fate. When 
I urged Pizarro's ignorance and baseness, he argued that per- 
haps any other chief would have pursued a similar policy 
under similar circumstances, and that it was hardly probable, 
that a man who held such entire sway amongst his followers, 
should be unable either to read or write — particularly as he 
governed men, who, according to the Fray Calaneha, under- 
stood both those arts — Don Francisco therefore concluded that 
such reports had been propagated through envy by his cotem- 
poraries. 

About four o'clock the next morning, we were roused by the 
ringing of bells and firing of rockets, accompanied by the music 
of hautboys, horns, and violins, which were altogether too noisy 
to permit us to sleep. We found it to be a part of a church 
ceremony, and when we looked out upon the street, the stars 
were brilliant, and the sky almost transparent. 

Soon after sunrise we visited the plaza, which forms part of 
every Spanish town. We found numbers of people in the 
street, passing thither to purchase the day's provisions, or re- 
turning with their baskets already filled. Now and then we 
passed a door, where two or three old men, in morning gowns 
of calico, and white cotton caps, sat smoking the segarrito, 
and enjoying the freshness of the morning. 

Along one side of the plaza, next to the church, were the 
market women, sitting amidst heaps of fruit and vegetables, 
shaded by mats propped up with canes. The women were all 
Indians, short, and square built, having coarse black hair, braid- 
ed down the back, black eyes, set well apart, white teeth, and 
flat noses. The expression of the countenance is sad and very 
placid, from which might be inferred their great docility, and 
patience of suffering. The color of the skin is a dark copper, and 



NOTICES OF PERU. 393 

smooth. They are an ugly race, and their full black dress con- 
ceals any grace their figures may pwssess. It is called the 
*'cap6s" (pronounced capoos), and consists of two pieces; the 
lower part is a petticoat, extending from above the ankle to 
the hips, around which it is gathered full j the upper part is 
straight, and may be compared to a bag, in which slits are left 
for the head and arms ; it is looped up on the shoulders with 
a black ribbon or string, like an infant's slip. A broad sash of 
red passes round the hips several times, and secures the petti- 
coat and lower edge of the " capds," which being much longer 
than the body, falls down in a sort of bagging fold, so as to 
conceal the sash. The " capiis,'* sitting loosely, falls off from 
the bust in front, and discovers the white chemise of coarse 
linen, embroidered with blue thread, and being neatly pucker- 
ed about the neck, completely conceals the bosom. The sleeves 
of the chemise are short, and also worked in blue or pink 
thread. A scapulary of various virtues, or a string of black 
beads and a cross pending in front, is the usual ornament of 
the neck, when any is worn. To this costume, which does not 
differ very materially from that used previous to the conquest, 
is added a white poncho or shawl, woven in a blue pattern, 
worn over the shoulders, and which occasionally serves to 
sling "the mother's joy" upon her back ; while she sits spin- 
ning cotton after the fashion of Pacasmayo, or disposing of her 
truck, the infant sleeps on her back, and lolls its head and arms' 
out of its sack, in vain endeavoring to reach the ground; and 
it is rarely that these children are heard to weep or complain 
while near the mother. The little urchin soon learns to attract 
the parent's attention, by tugging her ear or hair, and is sure 
then to be hauled by the heels over the shoulder, and his lips 
applied to the fountain of the purest as well as the earliest 
food. 

On another side of the plaza, are three at four moveable 
shambles for butcher's meat, shaded by mats, and surrounded 
by a bevy of idle curs. Besides a variety of fruits, amongst 
which are fine cherimoyas and grapes, several kinds of fish, 
some salted, and some fresh, were spread out on mats ; amongst 
those salted, were the jflounder and skate. A small shell fish, 
50 



394 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

known to conchologists under the name of donax, was ex- 
posed for sale in little heaps. 

The want of small coin in Lambayeque, has given rise to a 
curious way of making change. The smallest coin in circula- 
tion here, is a medio {Q\ cents,) though in Lima, the cuartillo, 
equal to half that sum, is found, but in limited numbers. To 
remedy this, a conventional law has made two eggs equal to a 
cuartillo ; when the port has been for a long time without visit- 
ers, the currency depreciates so much, that three or four eggs 
are required to equal that sum, though this is less fluctuating 
than the currency either of Brazil or Buenos Ayres. 

The dress of the male Indians consists of a pair of breeches, 
tight round the hips, and loose or bagging behind, and open at 
the knee, showing the embroidered linen or cotton drawers. 
A poncho, folded and laid over one shoulder, is carried even 
during the warm weather, and sometimes a jacket is worn. A 
large hat of Guayaquil manufacture, forms a conspicuous part 
of the dress, and when mounted, the heels are armed with 
huge spurs of iron or silver. Like the women, their faces are 
serene, and seldom lighted by a smile ; they are short, square 
built, and possess very sturdy limbs. 

The plaza, at an early hour, presents a curious scene to the 
eye of the stranger ; and if he would see the world of Lam- 
bayeque, at this season, he must visit this spot before the pow- 
erful sun has driven every body home. Amongst the heaps of 
fruit, shaded by mats that look like so many targets, are seat- 
ed the Indian women, in the captis, h la Turque, or thread- 
ing their way among them with infants slung upon their backs, 
loitering here and there, to gossip in a singing tone, and pur- 
chase their frugal meals. These are contrasted with the more 
animated Creoles, sambos, and whites, of both sexes, who ap- 
pear in gayer attire. At one corner are assembled the asses 
and mules, with empty capachos and panniers, whisking away 
the flies, or nodding in the shade. The bells are ringing, and 
on the terrace around the church are seen ladies in saya y man- 
to, and in the mantilla of Cadiz, and fat headed friars in black 
robes, walking very leisurely to matins or confession ; for at 
this early hour the conscience is ligliter, the memory is clear- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 395 

■er, and the stomach is not employed in digestion. At the same 
time, the water carriers, seemingly as gay as the morning, are 
hurrying along, chirping or whistling to their asses loaded 
with cool water dripping from the kegs. 

We entered the only church in Lambayeque. It is built of 
adobes and brick, is terraced round, and occupies one side of 
the plaza. It has a tower or belfry about a hundred feet high. 
The interior, like all Catholic churches, contains several altars 
and saintly shrines. The altar cloths are secured by a great 
iron hasp and padlock, which conveyed to my mind a dark 
meaning, that had some relation to the honesty of those who 
visit these shrines. The pulpit, as well as some of the altars, 
are heavily carved and richly gilt, and the square columns are 
hung with crimson damask, trimmed with tawdry yellow lace, 
but the whole is tarnished and covered with dust. The choir 
contained an organ, a rudely constructed but sweet toned harp, 
two horns, two vocalists, and a violin. The music was solemn 
and soothing at times, and then lively. The organ always 
sounded without accompaniment. 

Several women, some in saya y manto, and one or two in 
the mantilla, were kneeling on mats or rugs, in the nave of 
the church, counting their beads, while two priests were chant- 
ing mass before the altar. In distant corners of the temple, 
two were kneeling beside confessionals, whispering through 
its sieve-like pane into the ear of a friar seated within the box, 
while two or three irreverent curs were gamboling amongst 
the kneeling women. One old lady was apparently much an- 
noyed, and occasionally interrupted her devotions to cast a re- 
proving glance upon the sporting dogs, and then relaxed her 
countenance to a proper devotional longitude. Just as she was 
concluding a prayer with " Bendito sea Dios," a little dog 
leaped against her. Her equanimity was overthrown, and she 
exclaimed in an angry but subdued tone, "zafe perro, sin ver- 
guenza !" — out, dog, without shame ; but the dog seemed to 
«njoy her anxiety, and did not desist till she struck at him 
with her rosary. 

About noon, in spite of the oppressive heat, we passed 
through the silent streets, to visit a family that one of us had 



396 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

formerly known. The matron made her appearance, with her 
arms drawn out of the sleeves of her dress, which were pen- 
dent at her sides, her hair hanging down her back and shoul- 
ders, and her bosom nearly bare. In this slovenly attire, for 
which the heat is offered as an apology, it is not uncommon 
for married ladies of Lambayeque to be seen, in their own 
houses, during the summer season. As is ctistomary in other 
countries besides this, the conversation began upon the wea- 
ther. " Que calor hace !" — how warm it is ! said Dona Juan- 
ita, {the elderly matrons are always pleased to have the dimi- 
nutive annexed to their names, even after the hair has become 
silvered,) at the same time passing her pocket handkerchief, 
first on one side of her neck, and then on the other, to dry away 
the effects of the heat of which she complained. This remark 
was most philosophically replied to by a young Peruvian of 
our party : — '< Si, Sefiorita ! — Es verdad, pero es la fruta de la 
estacion." — Yes, madam ! — It is true, but it is the fruit of the 
season. After exhausting the subject of the weather, not for- 
getting to dwell on the pleasures and advantages of sea-bathing, 
the comparative facility of learning various languages was next 
discussed. On a due eonsideration of French, Italian and Eng- 
lish, Spanish was decided to be more easily acquired by fo- 
reigners than any other, ^'porque como se pronuncia se escri- 
be, y como se escribe se pronuncia," — because as it is pro- 
nounced it is written, and as it is written it is pronounced ; but, 
continued our hostess, "el idioma de ustedes se escribe de un 
modo, y se habla de otro," — your language is written in one 
way, and spoken in another. These remarks 1 have heard in 
every town from Valparaiso to Panama. After waiting some 
time, and losing all patience for the appearance of the young 
ladies, the mother observed, ''las ninas estan peindndose," — 
the girls are dressing — but as the hair is the material part of 
the female toilet in South America, the expression is better 
rendered, " the girls are combing."* 



^ I am Informed by an English lady wTio Taas long resided in Lima, that the 
belles never wear corsets, except on the occasion of attending public balls ; 
hence whatever beauty their persons may possess is natural, and not the re» 



NOTICES OF PERU.* 397 

About five o'clock the heat had partially subsided, and the 
liouses in the streets running north and south, cast a complete 
shade. We strolled out, and found a large portion of the po- 
pulation seated at their doors, the men smoking cigars, and the 
women dressed, and their heads ornamented with fresh pluck- 
ed flowers. Near the river, which passes on the nOrth side of 
the town, is a large building, formerly used as an hospital, but 
now in ruins ; at its corner were seated upon the door sill, se- 
veral gentlemen, amongst whom were the governor and a 
number of officers of the customs, conversing and chatting over 
itheir cigars. After a few remarks, we continued our paseo 
across the bridge, which is now swagging sadly in the centre. 
It is built of reeds laid athwart, and covered with earth, sup- 
ported by piles of algarrobo wood that have become almost as 
hard as stone, though they have been standing for a hundred 
years. The river is about a hundred feet wide, and twelve or 
fourteen deep. (Jenerally it runs with an easy current, but 
when the snows melt in the mountains, after a hard winter, it 
•overflows its banks, carrying every thing before it. In March 
1791, the town was inundated, and many lives destroyed ; 
again, in 1828, the hospital before mentioned was nearly de- 
stroyed, and canoes were floated in the streets for several days. 

Lambayeque is celebrated for its excellent chieha, and it is 
one of the few places in Peru that Taralla speaks well of: — 

" Que llegas a Lambayeque 
Abundante fertil pueblo, 
Cuyos Indios, y vecinos 
Son del agrado el tnodelo." 

Along the rstreets are seen poles projecting horizontally from 
the tops of the ranches, with a bunch of corn leaves tied on 
the end, which indicate that chieha is to be sold within. Near 
the extremity of the bridge, opposite to the town, is a " chi- 
charia," at present in high repute for the excellence of its li- 
quor. Here we found two or three young gentlemen, and a 

:sult of that much-to-be-deprecated habit of squeezing and lacing, so generally 
practised both in England and the United States, to the prejudice of health, 
;and often to the peril of life. 



398 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

jolly friar, styled Fray Tomas, chatting over their mates of 
chicha, and smoking; cigars. Fray Tomas is a remarkable little 
man, not only for his short stature and well filled rotundity, 
but for his neat manner of dressing. He usually wears a black 
silk vest, carelessly buttoned, so as to display to advantage a 
neatly embroidered shirt bosom and ruffles, black velvet small 
clothes, secured at the knee with gold buckles, black velvet 
pumps, tied in bows of black ribbon, and his well proportioned 
calf covered in black worsted hose. His upper garment is a 
striped gingham surtout, short in the waist, and reaching be- 
low the knees. A low, straight stock, with purple edging, is 
worn about his neck, and a heavy gold chain and seals hang 
from his waistband, like a kedge anchor from the bows of a 
frigate. When he walks out, he wears a thin black cloth cloak, 
and a clerical hat rolled up at the sides, which shelters his lit- 
tle face, at the same time hiding his thin black hair and ton- 
sure ; besides, he carries a gold mounted Molluca stick about 
four feet long. Altogether, Fray Tomas is a trig, merry son 
of the church, of fifty years old, who leads an easy life, saying 
mass, exhibiting the sacrament, and employing his leisure in 
playing cards, smoking cigars, and drinking chicha. He is 
courteous and talkative, and delights in mixing the "Nectar 
del Peru," ss he styles it, of different brewings, always desir- 
ing the opinion of the company, whether it be not improved. 
Like most of the clergy in Peru, he is skilled in Latin and 
church history, and besides, has somewhat of an antiquarian 
taste, which he indulges occasionally upon inquiries about the 
huacas and graves of the children of the sun, and always dwells 
with particular gusto upon the chicha sometimes found in them, 
which he represents as becoming much stronger than brandy. 
Speaking of the huacas, the question was agitated, whether 
they were tombs, or depots for treasure, or strong holds. Fray 
Tomas thinks they are the depots for treasure, because the 
burying places are always found in the plains, and that nothing 
but treasures are ever found in the huacas, while in the graves, 
jars of chicha, or some implements of industry, are only met 
with. I expressed a desire to visit a huaca which is near the 
town, to satisfy my curiosity upon the subject. At this mo- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 399 

ment, a tall Indian, whose person was but partially concealed 
by a dirty poncho rolled about him, who was leaning against 
a post, arms folded, a leg crossed over the other, toe resting 
on the ground, and head reclining slightly backward, listening 
silently to our conversation, remarked, that it would be dan- 
gerous to visit that huaca, because it was enchanted. " No hay 
tal — tu no sabes nada" — It is no such thing — thou knowest 
nothing — said the priest snappishly, and then in a softer tone 
said to me, " No le crea V™^-" — Dont you believe him — at 
the same time, with a significant look, moving his forefinger 
before his nose, from one side to the other. He then observed, 
that there was a huaca near the mouth of the river, which be- 
came enchanted in a curious manner. Two parties, without any 
knowledge of the intentions of each other, commenced mining: 
on opposite sides, at night, with the view of keeping their 
work secret. At last the adits met in the centre, and when the 
earth between them grew thin, they heard strange sounds, 
which they attributed to enchanted Indians, who were disturb- 
ed by their labors. Presently the partition broke, and there 
was a rush of wind through the aperture, that reduced all to 
darkness. The workmen threw down their tools, and fled in 
great consternation, and though it was fully explained, the 
lower orders never could be persuaded that the huaca was not 
enchanted. 

Though many Huacas have been explored, and yielded large 
amounts in gold, there are still many which remain untouched ;: 
these may reward the enterprise of some fortune-hunting indi- 
vidual. There is an anecdote told in Truxillo, of a poor but in- 
dustrious Spaniard, who gained the esteem of an old Indian, 
by kind offices, and protecting him from the operation of the 
mita system. The Indian described a spot in Chimu, where 
the Spaniard found more than a million in gold, in utensils and 
ornaments, and promised to tell him before his death where 
he might obtain much more, saying that he had only got a 
single egg from the nest. In gratitude for this mark of confi- 
dence, the Spaniard purchased an exemption from personal 
service in the mines, for the Indian and all of his tribe, but the 
old man died, and his secret was buried with him ! 



400 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC^ 

One afternoon we visited some Huacas in the vicinity, which^ 
among the Indians, have the reputation of being enchanted. 
They resemble fortresses more than anything else.. In the in- 
terior of one of them there is a wall, made of adobes of differ- 
ent sizes, which appears as if it had been heavily rained on. 
They are about thirty feet high, a hundred feet square, and of 
a pyramidal shape. There is no trace of graves or bones any 
where in their neighborhood. The age of these mounds is not 
known, for we are told that seven hundred years ago, their 
origin and use were as great a mystery as at the present day. 
The term Huaca, in the Quichua language, signifies " to weep," 
and hence the general impression that these mounds were 
graves or places of interment. The amount of treasure taken 
from them at different times, is very great. It is stated in the 
"Diario de Lima," for 1791, that, from the year 1550 to 1590, 
the king's fifths amounted to nearly one hundred thousand Cas- 
tellanos* of gold, worth about two hundred thousand dollars ! 
Chicha was a liquor used by the aborigines before the con- 
quest, which is proven by its having been found in their tombs. 
Chicha of the present day is of the consistence of milk, of a 
yellowish color, and when poured from one vessel into another, 
froths like beer ; generally its taste is slightly acid, but when 
very good, the acidity is scarcely perceptible. The process of 
making it is simple. Indian corn is steeped in water till it 
swells ; it is then dried, and ground ; the flour and bran are 
boiled in water, strained, and left to ferment twenty-four 
hours, when it is fit for use. Sugar is occasionally added, and 
it is sometimes made into flip with eggs. Foreigners are gene- 
rally disgusted with chicha, because they are told that it is 
made by chewing the corn, and spitting the saliva into a com- 
mon receptacle, where it is left to ferment ! This is called 
<' chicha mascada," and 1 am assured that it is thus made in. 
several places, t 



• A Castellano is one hundredth part of a Spanish pound. 

\ Chicha bears some resemblance, at least in its manufacture, to the Epeah- 
la, made by some of the " Hollontontes" on the southern coast of Africa. See 
Owen's Voyages, to explore Africa and Arabia. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 



401 



The following verses in praise of chicha are sung to an agree- 
able air, both in Peru and Chile, on all occasions of festivity 
that partake of a national character : 

LETRILLA. 

Patriotas, el mate 
Be chicha llenad, 
Y alegres hrindemos 
For la libertad. 

Oh licor precioso! 
Tii licor peruano, 
Licor sobre humano, 
. Mitiga mi sed. 

Oh nectar sabroso 
De color del oro, 
Del indio tesoro! 
Patriotas, bebed. 
Patriotas, &c. 



Cubra nuestras mesas 
El chupe y quesillo 
Y el aji amarillo. 
El celeste aji. 

Y a nuestras cabezas 
La chicha se vuele, 
La que hacer se suele 
De maiz 6 mani. 
Patriotas, &c. 



Esta es mas sabrosa 
Que el vino y la cidra 
Que nos trajo la hidra 
Para envenenar. 

Es muy espumosa : 

Y yo la prefiero 
A cuanto el ibero 
Pudo codiciar. 

Patriotas, &c. 

El Inca la usaba 
En su regia mesa 
Con que ahora no empieza. 
Que es inmemorial. 

Bien puede el que acaba 
Perdir se renueve 
El poto en que bebe 
O su caporal. 

Patriotas, &c. 

El seviche venga. 
La guatia en seguida. 
Que tambien combida 

Y exita a beber. 
Todo indio sostenga 

Con el poto en raano 
Que a todo tirano 
Ha de aborrecer. 
Patriotas, &c. 
51 



Sobre la jalea 
Del aji untada 
Con mano enlazada 
El poto apurad : 

Y este brindis sea 
El signo que damos 
A los que engendramos 
En la libertad. 

Patriotas, &c. 

Al caliz amargo 
De tantos disgustos 
Sucedan los gustos, 
Suceda el placer. 

De nuestro letargo 
A una despertamos : 
Y tambien logramos 
Libres por fin ser. 
Patriotas, &c. 

Gloria eterna demos 
Al heroe divino 
Que nuestro destino 
Cambiado ha por por fin. 

Su nombre gravemos 
En el tronco bruto 
Del drbol que el fruto 
Debe a Sax Mahtin. 
Patriotas, &c. 



402 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

The gourds from which chicha is drunk, are called matds. 
Gourds grow here to an astonishing size, and are converted into 
all kinds of household utensils required by the Indians. The 
small ones are made into bottles, drinking cups, and plates, and 
the large ones into dishes, and even into wash tubs! 

The Indians and common people pay less attention to per- 
sonal cleanliness than at any other place I have visited. The 
better classes, though slovenly in their dress, are extremely 
careful to wash and bathe frequently in the river. In our walks, 
we often saw men and women bathing together, in a paucity 
of clothing ; and children of both sexes, of eight or ten years 
of age, are seen plunging in the river, and even playing through 
the streets entirely naked. 

The food of the Indians consists of a little fish, salted or fresh, 
parched corn, and chicha. They sometimes indulge in eggs, 
but not often, for it is like eating up their own gold ! These 
people still bear the impress of the Spanish domination, evinced 
in their silent, tolerant manners. They are extremely supersti- 
tious, and resort to witchcraft for the cure of diseases, and give 
a large portion of their gains to the church ; they spend every 
thing in wax, for religious ceremonies, and chicha. The women 
carry heavy loads of wood, and great jars of water, enough in 
appearance to weigh down a man. They are a short, square 
built people, possessed of mild countenances, but an ugly race 
withal. Honesty is a rare virtue among them. I am told they 
were in the habit of placing combustibles against store doors, 
and silently burning their way in ; to avoid which, many doors 
were made double, having the interstitial space filled with 
rockets to give alarm. Both in Lambayeque and Chiclayo, a 
town about five miles distant, there are Indians who trace their 
genealogy back to the Caciques ; and one old man in the latter 
village is familiarly styled "el Cacique.^' 

The town of Lambayeque contains at present about twelve 
thousand inhabitants, including whites, blacks, sambos, In- 
dians, and castes. The streets are narrow, and intersect each 
other nearly at right angles. The houses are generally one 
story high, and resemble those of Lima in their architecture. 
There are no wheeled carriages in the place, with the excep- 



NOTICES OF PEKU. 403 

tlon of a sort of cart, made of heavy pieces of algarrobo, sup- 
ported on low wooden trucks, and drawn by oxen. 

Many years ago, this place was inhabited by Indians alone, 
the capital of the province being Sana, situated a few leagues 
to the southward; but after the latter town was sacked by an 
English pirate, about the year 1685, the inhabitants removed 
to Lambayeque. "Old Lambayeque" applies now to the site 
of an ancient Indian village, about four miles to the northward. 

The country around, for many leagues, is a plain, watered 
by the river of Lambayeque, which bursts over the land in al- 
most every direction, and like the Nile, carries fertility with 
it; these vagrant streams terminate in small lagoons, which 
have so much encroached upon the roads in many places, that 
a guide is necessary to lead one through the many paths, wind- 
ing among algarrobo and other trees, which grow thickly 
everywhere, a half mile from town. 

This province, sometimes styled the garden of Peru, pro- 
duces excellent sugar, tobacco, rice, soap, hides, and cordovan 
leather. The tobacco and sugar have been sent from the 
earliest times to the Chilian and Panama markets; the soap 
and leather were usually consumed at Lima. Lately, how- 
ever, from difficulties existing between the governments of 
Peru and Chile, the export of sugar has been very limited ; the 
latter having imposed a duty of twelve dollars the quintal on 
all Peruvian sugars, not because the article is raised in Chile, 
but to retaliate on Peru for the imposition of a heavy duty on 
Chilian bread stuffs ! The fruits are similar to those of Lima. 
Large quantities of sweetmeats, both dry and in syrup, are 
made in the town, from peaches, quinces, and grapes, the lat- 
ter being most esteemed. 

Besides all the fruits of the soil, large amounts in silver bul- 
lion, from the mines of Hualgayoc and Caxamarca, are ex- 
ported, in spite of the law, and sold either at Callao or Valpa- 
raiso, to English or American merchants. The ingenuity prac- 
tised by the owners of the silver to elude the custom house is 
admirable. It is sometimes packed in bales of soap, and some- 
times in bags of rice, and in that way arrives on board of the 
men-of-war, where the silver is removed, and the rice and 



404 THllEE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

soap sent on board of vsome merchant vessel. A custom house 
officer once observing a great number of apparent bales of soap, 
that were being embarked on board of an American man-of- 
war, remarked very archly, '' the Americans must be a dirty 
people, to require so much soap to keep one ship's company 
clean !" 

English and American naval commanders receive one and a 
half per cent, freight for carrying specie or bullion, and one 
per cent, deposite. The French government does not allow 
their officers any privilege of the kind. This freight money, 
with the English, is divided between the captain, admiral of 
the station, and the Greenwich hospital ; with Americans, it 
" is to be equally divided between the captain of the vessel 
and the Navy Pension Fund." By this business, in the time 
of the revolution, some commanders gained eighty and even a 
hundred thousand dollars, in the course of a three years' cruise. 
In those days, it was not uncommon for a million in plate and 
bullion to be shipped at one time, to save it from the hands of 
patriot or royalist, as the fortune of either happened to be as- 
cendant. 

The Indians manufacture a variety of cotton fabrics, which 
are consumed in the country ; such as cotton counterpanes with 
raised figures, straw hats of a variety of colors, petdtes or mats, 
and segarreros. 

Some years ago, a holy friar and his nephew, who was anx- 
ious for promotion in the Spanish army, left Truxillo for Spain, 
the latter carrying with him one of the finest segarreros made 
in the country. The friar contrived in a short time to ingratiate 
himself with the king, and get appointed one of his Christian 
Majesty's confessors ; and the nephew, who was blessed with 
winning manners, soon became in such high favor as to visit 
his king in his chamber before he arose from bed, "for you 
know," said the old gentleman who told me the story, "that 
kings never get up before twelve o'clock." One morning, the 
king told the nephew to take a cigar from the royal segarr6ro, 
" which was a great honor," and observing that it was a very 
coarse one, not worth more than two reales in Lambayeque, 
the young man very humbly proposed to exchange it for the 



NOTICES OF PERU. 405 

lieautifully fine one he had brought with him. To his unspeak- 
able joy, the offer was accepted ! For a time, the king's segar- 
r6ro was the admiration and theme of conversation with the 
whole Spanish court. The friar at once sent to Peru, and im- 
ported the finest cigar boxes that had ever been seen in all 
Spain, and such was the rage and fashion for these segarr6ros, 
that they sold for fifty, and even a hundred dollars each, and 
many Indians grew rich by plaiting them ! But the most im- 
portant result of the exchange was, that his majesty appointed 
the young man to an office near his person, which was no doubt 
turned to advantage, both by the confessor and his winning 
nephew ! 

One Sunday, we mounted our horses at seven o'clock in the 
morning, and set off for Chiclayo. The road winds first among 
algarrobo trees and lagoons, in which were several storks and 
a variety of white herons feeding ; and the trees were filled 
with wild pigeons. Near Chiclayo, the road was enclosed be- 
tween green hedges, running through fields of sugar cane and 
rice. 

The entrance to the town is through a gateway, with square 
white pillars, and over a short bridge, thrown across an ace- 
quia or ditch. The first building is a large one, called '' Fac- 
toria de Tobacos," where, during the Spanish colonial govern- 
ment, tobacco was bought by the Real Hacienda, or Royal 
Treasury, and packed up in long rolls, about two inches in 
diameter, called "mazos." A million of these rolls were an- 
nually exported to Chile, where this tobacco is esteemed and 
still purchased by the Estanco or monopoly, though it is not 
used in Peru. The price was fixed by the " Direccion General 
de Lima," at seventy-five dollars for a thousand rolls, which 
were sold at the same rate per hundred, yielding a large profit 
to the government. Though the building has changed masters, 
it is still used for drying and packing tobacco for exportation. 

Chiclayo is smaller than Lambayeque, which it closely re- 
sembles in general appearance, the population, lately very 
much increased, not exceeding eight thousand souls. The 
plaza is a parallelogram, having a church on one corner. On 
one side of it is a small apothecary shop, tenanted by a tall 



406 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

yankee master of the pestle and mortar, whom I remember to 
have seen several years ago in Lima. He told me that he 
was married, '' made out to get a living," and that there was 
an American carpenter in the place. There is not an out of 
the way corner in the world, where some of our enterprising 
countrymen, from '*the land of steady habits," are not met 
with ! 

We stopped at the house of Don Antonio, which is at one 
end of the square, and by far the neatest in the place. Don 
Antonio was making his toilet in the sala, and saluted us with 
a nod, without saying a word, but continued buttoning and ad- 
justing his shirt bosom. One of our party thought the recep- 
tion so cold, that he said something about returning. Before 
our host found leisure to speak, we had examined him, the 
apartment, and its furniture. He is a Spaniard, about forty 
years of age, with a short corpulent stature, surmounted by a 
square, stupid, inoffensive face, not at all set off by his thin 
hair and light colored eyebrows. The apartment was large, 
airy, clean, and floored with tiles. The furniture consisted of 
a Guayaquil hammock, stretched across one end of the room, 
two leather backed sofas, a baize covered table, and a host of 
sulphur colored Windsor chairs, enough to make one pant with 
heat. A pair of tame black-birds were hopping about, picking 
up flies. 

At last, Don Antonio, with a deep sigh, gathering up the 
clothes he had just thrown off, said, " Puez Senores, porque 
no se aslentan ustedes" — Well, gentlemen, why don't you sit 
yourselves down ; and disappeared for a moment into the next 
room. When he returned, he drew a chair, expressed his 
pleasure at our visit, inquiring about our ride, &c. Then his 
better half, who is young, and very agreeable in conversation, 
came in, followed by a little curly headed girl about five years 
old, whom. Dona Josepha told us, had been left at the door 
when an infant, and having no children, Don Antonio and 
herself considered her as their own. In five minutes, in spite 
of our first impression, we were perfectly at home, and con- 
versed with our new acquaintances as if we had known them 
for years. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 407 

The table was supplied with cool water, glasses, and some 
excellent Italia, which was so cordially recommended, that a 
president of a temperance society could not have refused it. 
In a few minutes breakfast was brought, consisting of a variety 
of substantial dishes in the Spanish style. After the lady re- 
tired, we sat an hour chatting over our cigars, with an old 
Franciscan who came in, and then Don Tsidro proposed a stroll 
through the town. 

The streets were dusty and hot, and we gladly took shelter 
in the '<tina," or soap factory, belonging to our friend Don 
Isidro. He makes large quantities of soap, and tans a great 
number of goat skins. Tanning and soap making are combined 
here, because the soap is made from goats' tallow, to obtain 
which the whole animal must be purchased. Having no coopers 
in the place, the soap tubs or boilers, with a copper bottom, are 
built up in an octagonal form, of pieces of wood, the ends of 
which are dovetailed together, and the seams and joints caulked 
like those of a ship. The barilla, here called "lito," is ob- 
tained at Sechura, a few leagues to the northward. The soap 
is cut into square cakes of five, six, or nine to the pound, and 
packed in bales called "petacas" for exportation. 

The goat skins are tanned and dyed by the aid of a plant 
called Paipai. A hundred thousand skins of Cordovan are an- 
nually exported from the province. The goats are fattened on 
the algarrobo bean, and yield from seventeen to twenty-four 
pounds of tallow each. 

The whole neighborhood of Lambayeque and Chiclayo, is 
taken up with soap factories, tanneries, and sugar mills, in most 
cases all combined into one establishment. They are only re- 
markable for the rudeness of their structure. 

Leaving the soap works, we visited several families, but 
found only the gentlemen at home, all the ladies having gone 
to church. 

The news of a late revolution had just reached Chiclayo, and 
was the absorbing theme of conversation. An old gentleman 
in company remarked, " that a general commotion throughout 
Peru, would be a great blessing to the country, because it 
would serve to unite the liberals, and put down the tyrant Ga- 



408 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

marra and his army, whose only use, since the state was at 
peace, was to support the executive — that these local disturb- 
ances were scarcely felt beyond the capital, and in fact they 
were not aware of the existence of the government, except 
when it levied contributions to support the soldiery kept about 
the president's palace — that trifling revolutions only irritated 
and increased the complaints of the people, ' quienes, son todos 
mui patriotas para hablar hasta que se toca la bolsilla — entonces 
se callan' — who are all great patriots in talk, till the purse is 
touched — then they are silent." 

We next visited the church, which was crowded with vi'o- 
men, sitting upon their heels in the nave, waiting for the com- 
mencement of mass. The bells were chiming right merrily ; 
and presently we heard approaching music. In a few minutes, 
a priest, followed by a half dozen Chiclayo patricians, under 
cocked hats, and adorned with bows of red ribbons tied in the 
button holes, entered. Immediately after them walked a dozen 
Indians, bearing long palm leaves in their hands, to be blessed 
by the priest, previously to being affixed to the windows of 
their huts, to keep off witches and disease. When the padre 
reached the great altar, which was hidden by a large green 
curtain with a yellow cross upon it, the women raised up on 
their knees, and having scrupulously adjusted the dress so as 
to conceal their feet, assumed a devout look, and crossed them- 
selves a half dozen times. The voice of the organ rolled among 
the arches, smoke rose from the censers, and circulated around 
the priest and the palms; and two or three Indians, who had 
fallen asleep behind the bench upon which we were seated, 
started up, and were quickly kneeling and crossing. Our pa- 
tience was exhausted ; so we returned to Don Antonio's, and 
saw from his door a procession issue from a chapel called La 
Recoleta, and enter the church. We were too far off for a satis- 
factory view, and the heat was too great to attempt to get near- 
er. All we could distinguish was that they carried palms (being 
Palm Sunday) and lighted candles, though the sun was glow- 
ing in meridian effulgence. 

We chatted and smoked cigars in the house for an hour or 
two. During the conversation, curiosity prompted me to ask a 



NOTICES OP PERU. 409 

lady's age, principally because she said she had married young. 
"Nos^deveras — hay madres curiosas que apuntan cuando 
nacen sus hijos, pero la mia no era una de esas !" — Indeed I 
do not know — there are mothers curious enough to note down 
when their children are born, but mine was not one of those ! 
This was said with so much ingenuousness, that I could not 
suppose it was for evasion ; in fact, the ladies in Peru, when 
married, do not keep their ages a secret. 

About three o'clock, the table was set out with fruits of dif- 
ferent kinds, and we were invited " to refresh ourselves." After 
partaking of the fruits, several dishes of meat, dressed in vari- 
ous ways, succeeded each other to the number of ten or twelve, 
and then followed a desert of puddings, custards, and cakes. 
Italia was frequently recommended during the feast, to pro- 
mote digestion and prevent cholera. 

About five o'clock, much gratified with their hospitality, we 
took leave of Don Antonio and his lady, and rode briskly back 
to Lambayeque. 

Being what is termed passion week, there was a procession 
every night in the streets, illustrative of some part of the pas- 
sion of Christ : — on Sunday night, a huge table, dressed with 
vines, flowers, and fruits, resembling a garden, and illuminated 
with lanterns and candles, in which were several figures, and 
among them our Saviour in a velvet robe, richly embroidered 
in gold. The table, called the *'paso," or "anda," is borne 
along by as many men as can crowd their shoulders under it; 
yet it is so heavy that they reel along, and are obliged to halt 
frequently to take breath. The anda was preceded by a num- 
ber of men and women bearing candles, two or three Indians 
with silver rods, and one carrying the banner of the church. 
Immediately in front of the anda, were two Indian girls be- 
decked with jewels, w^hich are generally loaned them by their 
mistresses for the occasion, carrying silver brazeros of coals, 
upon which others, ever and anon, sprinkled frankincense. 
A priest, in full canonicals, followed, and the accompanying 
band was playing lugubrious airs. One evening, the scourging 
of the Saviour in the presence of Pontius Pilate, was the scene 
represented ; the guards were dressed for all the w:orld like 
52 



410 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

old continental soldiers, with black beards and bristly musta- 
ches, which strongly reminded us of our boyish days, when 
we were delighted with the figures in '< Jesse Sharpless's wax- 
works," at Philadelphia. These processions, which are paid for 
by voluntary contributions from the Indians, serve to enliven 
the place, but at the same time bring religion into disrespect 
with the better informed. 

" How would you tolerate such puppets in your country, be- 
fore which every body must stand uncovered .'*" asked a friend. 
<* These are all inventions of the priests to filch money from 
the ignorant, who give their pittance to secure for themselves 
a short detention in purgatory, and a free passage through the 
gate guarded by St. Peter!" 

** Before you condemn the clergy of these countries, look to 
the United States, and tell me whether there are no abuses to 
be corrected in them ? How many hypocritical enthusiasts, 
who have thrown aside the thimble and goose, or the lap-stone 
and awl, ' to obey a call,' are now robbing women of their 
pin money, and children of their cakes, under the pious pre- 
text of saving souls, in order to live in idleness themselves !" 
It is these apostates of St. Crispin who bring religion into dis- 
respect, and make us laughed at by the thinking of all parts of 
the world ! 

We frequently visited the chicharia over the bridge ; the 
house, partly from antiquity, and partially from the frail nature 
of the materials of which it is constructed, has a decided incli- 
nation towards the street, which the owners have opposed with 
stout logs of aigarrobo placed against the eaves. The interior 
presents a small apartment,or rather covered entrance, furnished 
with two or three high leather backed chairs, and as many 
wooden benches. At our last visit, Fray Tomas sat swinging 
his legs, which did not reach the ground, and sipping chicha 
from a mate of wholesome capacity. A little dried up custom 
house ofificer, in a yellow striped jacket, occupied one of the 
chairs opposite to him, smoking a paper cigar. Both thiese gen- 
tlemen were listening to a gay story told by a tall, fine looking 
man, who had been in the army, but is now administrador of 
the custom house. Further, there was a little group of gentlemen, 



NOTICES OF PERU. 411 

smoking, laughing and chatting; and two pre-eminently ugly 
Indian women were squatted by a bed of coals, broiling ifish. 
They were shaded by a few canes laid side by side, their ends 
resting on a ricketty fence of reeds, that separated them from 
the high road. One of these Indians had a child about two 
years old slung upon her back ; and the squalid little thing kept 
striking its mother to gain attention, but in vain ; she continued 
putting fish on the coals, and coals on the fish, without noticing 
arty thing else. An Indian girl, as ugly as either of the others, 
who acted as an attendant, wore, instead of the captis, a piece 
of cloth rolled about her person, extending from the armpit 
below the knee, secured over the breast by strings tied over 
the shoulders and around the waist. Close to them were seve- 
ral large earthen jars, for boiling and fermenting chicha, and 
at the remotest end of the yard were two pig-stys, inhabited 
by noisy black swine. Besides these, a half dozen pigs were 
tied by the middle like monkeys, and tethered to pegs driven 
in the ground. The whole tribe were squeaking anxiously to 
join the preparing feast, while a dozen ducks stood in a pond 
hard by, prattling and shaking their tails, and an amicable com- 
pany of turkeys and hens were retiring to roost. At least five 
mangy curs were sneaking about with tails hanging down, and 
watching every opportunity to plunge their noses into the 
earthen pots that were stewing on the fire. The Indians pur- 
sued their operations in silence, except some one of the guests 
cried <' chicha," and then the young Hebe replied "ya voy." 
Presently the roasted fish were put into a gourd dish, and 
an earthen pot of *' mote" (corn shelled from the cob and boil- 
ed) was turned into another, and placed on a table. The gen- 
tlemen immediately threw away their cigars, drew up the 
benches and chairs, and fell to eating with their fingers. Those 
who could not find room at the table, got a fish on a gourd 
plate with a handful of mote, and eat as they walked up and 
down, inviting us to join them. Though we had just dined, 
and the food was so rudely served, we found the fish and mote 
very good. Fray Tomas and his friend the custom house officer 
formed a separate mess, seated on a mat, with a great gourd 
dish of beef and rice stewed with aji, garnished by a mat6 of 



412 THREE YEA^RS IN THE PACIFIC. 

chicha, and another of mot^. The padre plied his gourd spoon 
so rapidly, that every thing like articulation was precluded, but, 
true Spaniard like, never forgetting politeness, he conveyed 
an invitation to us, by pointing into the dish, and nodding his 
head, with a look which made the whole gesture quite intelli- 
gible. The custom house officer was not far behind his com- 
panion. One of the curs was disposed to join them, in spite of 
the rebuffs given him by the priest, under whose arm he now 
and then found an opportunity to run his nose into the dish, 
and scamper off with a piece of hot meat. We joined in eat- 
ing mot^ and drinking chicha, and I ventured to compliment 
the Indian on her cookery ; her only reply was *' Ay ! Senor," 
spoken in the usual half singing kind of tone, as she continued 
poking the fire. 

We followed the whole party, after they had ended the 
feast, to the billiard room, where some were playing billiards, 
while others, seated in the corners, were gambling with dice 
or cards. The young men pass their evenings in this way, and 
when they lose, always attribute it to some unusual run of 
luck. Last night a custom house officer lost all his money with 
the curate and some others, who left him seated on a bench, 
holding fast to his chin, staring vacantly on the billiard table, 
and looking like a man in despair. To night, however, he was 
in luck ; the curate grew desperate, and increased his bets till 
he placed all he had in his pocket on the table. The devil was 
in the dice, for they rolled against the clergyman and in favor 
of the custom house officer, who, amidst the dead silence of 
the astonished losers, swept the table, apparently delighted in 
prolonging the chinking of the silver and gold, as they drop- 
ped from sight, piece by piece, into his straw hat, and in his 
turn walked off, leaving the curate to console himself with a 
paper cigar. Whether long habit had inured him to losses, 
whether his profession had taught him resignation, or whether 
he derived consolation from the little paper cigar that smoked 
so cheerfully around his nose, I could not determine, but the 
fact is, he did not appear to be much distressed. The custom 
house officer, flushed with success, ventured his winnings at 
another game, on the opposite side of the room. Directly there 



NOTICES OP PERU. 413 

was a loud laugh, and 1 saw him sit down by the curate, and, 
lighting his cigar, torture his features to look cheerful, but the 
whole effort only resulted in a grin. 

We left Lambayeque about twelve o'clock, and embarked 
on a large balsa, called El Sacramento, which was laden with 
supplies for our ship. The crew consisted of ten brawny In- 
dians, who, like all of their tribe, wore the hair braided behind, 
and cut short from the crown to the forehead, except a long 
tuft in the centre. Their dress was complete in a pair of cloth 
trowsers. 

All being ready, the square sail was hoisted, and one end of 
the balsa pushed oflf towards the breakers, while the other was 
retained on the beach by a rope held by a party of Indians on 
shore. Presently the sail filled, a heavy wave broke roaring 
on the beach, sending a sheet of foamy water towards the shore, 
and our balsa was afloat. The bals6ros who had been bearing 
off the bow of the vessel, or rather raft, gave a shout, jumped 
on board, and the rope was let go., The sail was now sufficient 
to urge us steadily through the surf into the open sea, aided 
by broad paddles, called rudders, which the Indians worked 
cheerily. As we got into deep water, several short planks 
were forced down between the logs, giving steadiness, and, 
like the keel of a ship, keeping the balsa near the wind. 

After we were fairly under way, the Indians put on their 
ponchos, and sat themselves down, with gourds of moth and 
little shell-fish, before mentioned, called Donax. At four 
o'clock P. M. we reached the ship, and, having been thirteen 
days in port, got our anchor and put to sea. 



414 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Paita — Bay — Town — Piura — Whalers — A fish story. 

At six o'clock P. M., on the 10th of January 1833, we an- 
chored in the bay of Paita, which is situated in 5° 2' south 
latitude. Its configuration resembles that of Valparaiso, but is 
of greater extent. For several leagues to the north and south, 
the land is a flat waste, composed of rocks and clay, filled with 
marine shells. It bears the appearance of having been sub- 
merged at some remote period ; not a green spot or even a 
blade of grass meets the eye in any direction. A hard sand 
beach stretches round the harbor, which is completely sheltered 
from all prevailing winds. The atmosphere is remarkably 
clear at all seasons, and the moon is said to be more beautifully 
pale than in any other part of the world. The climate is dry 
and equal in temperature. A sea breeze usually sets in about 
ten or eleven o'clock A. M. , and blows till sun down; in the 
summer season, before that hour, it is somewhat sultry. 

A very short lime enables you to survey the whole town. 
It is built under a precipice of clay and stone, upon a lap of 
land of irregular superficies. It consists of two or three parallel 
streets, connected by narrow alleys or lanes. The houses are 
constructed of split canes, brought from Guayaquil, where they 
grow to a large size ; they are lashed to the wooden frame 
with cords, and are plastered with mud ; they present, in the 
early stage of construction, the appearance of large cages. 1 
inferred from the great peakedness of the roofs, that heavy 
rains were frequent, but learned on inquiry, that it is only 
once in two or three years that there is a shower from a stray 
cloud. The dews, however, compensate for the absence of 
rain, though they are thrown away upon the ungrateful soil in 
the immediate vicinity. The number of inhabitants, according 
to the captain of the port, amounts to three thousand, " mal 
contado" — badly counted, and consist chiefly of Indians and 



NOTICES OF PERU. 415 

their progeny. The main street now presents a busy appear- 
ance ; houses are being built, and others are falling under the 
march of improvement. Whalemen are swaggering before the 
doors of the pulperias, and talking of their exploits with ''the 
fish.'^ Children are sprawling about in the sand at play, and 
their parents seem to be sleeping in the thresholds. At the 
** Union Sociable," according to the advertisement on the 
door, may be had " Uillar y Cafe" — Billiards and Coffee; this 
is the fashionable resort, and the balls are never at rest. The 
female part of the community spend a large portion of time 
swinging in straw hammocks. At night, in the summer, the 
whole population seem to live in the street; after wearying 
themselves with dancing to the tinkling of guitars by moon- 
light, in spite of the dews, they stretch themselves out on the 
ground before the doors to sleep. In all parts of South Ame- 
rica, the people live to enjoy themselves, and the common 
people indulge more generally in innocent amusements than 
those of similar classes in the United States ; national music, 
perhaps, has a tendency to amuse the populace, and prevent it 
from resorting to sensual dissipation ! 

Paita, which was discovered by Pizarro, is the sea port of 
Piura, also founded by the conqueror in 1533, and called San 
Miguel.* Piura is fourteen leagues in the interior, built on a 
river of the same name. It is celebrated for the salubrity of its 
climate, and visited by numbers of valetudinarians, to drink of 
the waters of the river, which are said to be strongly impreg- 
nated with sarsaparilla, that grows abundantly on its banks. 
The town contains ten thousand inhabitants, and is a market 
for European and American goods, which are there sold and 
sent to the different villages in the neighborhood. 

The exports from Paita are cinchona bark, rhatany, silver, 
and wool. 

Paita has figured in the history of the buccaneers from the 
earliest periods, and has suffered as much from their invasions 
as any other port in the Pacific. It was sacked on the 24th of 
November 1741, by Lord Anson, who is now familiarly 

• Herrera. 



416 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

spoken of by the old inhabitants as <* Jorge Anson." He 
landed so few of his jseople, that the Paitanians carried off 
quantities of their treasure, and buried it in the sand, yet the 
admiral found wealth enough left to surprise him. Don Nico- 
las de Salazar, who was at that time Contador of Piura, aided 
by a negro, fired two small guns from a fort that had been 
abandoned, but ammunition was so scarce that he loaded them 
with hard dollars !* 

This port is a rendezvous throughout the year for American 
whalers, who resort to it to refresh their crews, to cooper their 
oil, and to fill up their supplies of vegetables and provisions. 
For this purpose, they are allowed to sell goods to an amount 
not exceeding two hundred dollars, duty free, but they gene- 
rally exceed the law, and dispose of certain " ventures" at the 
risk of seizure and confiscation. I asked a captain of a whaler 
in port, whether he was not afraid of being detected in these 
transactions. He replied, " Why you see I never know how 
things gets ashore — they will have 'em, and I am mostly asleep 
when they takes 'em away ! But there is no trade now. 
When I first came to the south sea, in 1805, we used to get 
just as much as we chose to ask for any thing. Our caiptain 
had a barrel of gin fixed in the bulk head, so one half of it was 
in the cabin, and the other in the mate's room. When the 
people knew we had this liquor, they flocked aboard with bot- 
tles and gourds; and while the captain drew off gin in the ca- 
bin, the mate was in his room pouring in water, so that I guess 
the barrel was sold three times full for about six dollars a 
gallon !" 

Whalers form a distinct class. When several vessels are 
assembled at any of the places of rendezvous, the oldest cap- 
tain in company is styled the admiral. They have suppers on 
board one of the ships every night, to which all present are 
invited by hoisting a flag before sunset. I attended on one of 
these occasions, and was much amused with the peculiar slang 
of these people. "Come," said the captain, "take a cigar, 
you'll find 'em pretty much half Spanish, I guess." 

* Noticias Secretas. p. 180. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 417 

I inquired of one who had been relating some exploits with 
whales, whether he never felt that he was in danger. "Why, 
I always think, if I have a good lance, the fish is in most dan- 
ger !" 

I asked another whether he had ever met with an accident. 

" I can't say exactly as how I have, though I came plaguy 
near it once. You see we was off the coast of Japan, right 
among a shoal of whales, and all hands was out in the boats 
except me and the cook. I was lookin at the creaturs with the 
glass, and saw one on 'em flirt her tail agin a boat, and it was 
a caution to see the scatterment she made of her. All the boys 
were set a swimmin, so the cook and me jumped into a boat 
and picked 'em all up. Directly the fish blowed close to us, 
and I took an iron and sunk it into her, and I know how to 
strike a whale as well as any man, but the creatur canted the 
wrong way, and I know how a sparm ought to cant, and comin 
at us full tilt, with her jaws as wide open as a barn door, bit the 
boat smack in two in the middle. Then she chawed up one end 
on her, and by the time we got hold on the other, she come at 
us agin, and making another bite, took me by the back betwixt 
her teeth, and shook me as a puppy would a ball of yarn, and 
I guess she would'nt have dropped me, if the mate had'nt come 
up in another boat, and shoved in his lance till she was sicken- 
ed ! As good luck would have it, we was all picked up with- 
out any accident, but I got five of her tooth prints in my back 
to this day !" 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Geography of Peru — Repartimientos — Mita System — General La Mar — Ge- 
neral Gamarra. 

The once extensive Empire of Peru, whose foundation by 
the Incas is shrouded in the darkness of fable, and an uncer- 
tain tradition, was bounded, at the period of the conquest, on 
53 



41S THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

the north by the Blue river, or in the language of the country, 
the Ancalmayu, which is near the equator, and between Pasto 
and Quito ; on the south by the river Maul^, which crosses 
the kingdom of Chile to the north of the country of the Arau- 
canians ; on the east- by the snow-capped Ritisuyu, or band of 
snow, that stretches from Santa Martha to the Straits of Ma- 
gellan, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. In the course of 
time its extent was diminished. In 1718, the provinces form- 
ing the kingdom of Quito were separated from it, and in 1778, 
the viceroyship of Buenos Ayres was taken away. 

In 1791, Peru extended from two degrees to twenty-three 
of south latitude ; it was bounded on the north by the kingdom 
of New Granada, and on the south by the desert of Atacama. 
On the east, a gloomy desert of five hundred leagues in extent 
separated it from Brazil, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres. On the 
west the Pacific still lashed its shores. 

At present, the Republic of Peru is separated from the ter- 
ritory of Equador, on the north, by the river Tumbez ; on 
the south it is bounded by Bolivia, the limits of which are 
not yet settled ; on the east by Brazil, and on the west by the 
Pacific. 

The territory is divided into seven departments, and each 
department into provinces. 

Departments. Provinces. 

CArica, Callyoma, Camand, Cercado, Conde- 
Arequipa 7. ^ ^^^^^^ Moquegua, Tarapac£l. 



'■\ 



Andahuaylas, Cangallo, Castrovireyna, Hua- 
Ayacucho 9. -^ manga, Huancavelica, Huanta, Lucanas, Pa- 
rinacochas, Tayacaja. 



C Abancay, Aymaraes, Galea, Gercado, Cotabam- 
Cuzco 11. < bas, Ghumbivilcas, Paruro, Paucartambo, 
^ Quispicanchi, Tinta, Urubamba. 



Junin 8. 



Cajatambo, Conchucos, Huaylas, Huamalies, 
Huanuco, Hauri, Jauja, Pasco. 



>[ 



Gajamarca, Chachapoyas, Chota, Huamachuco, 
Libertad 10. -{ Jaen, Lambayeque, Maynas, Pataz, Piura, 
Trujillo. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 419 

Departments. Provinces. 

J . CCanta, Canete, Cercado, Chancay, Huaroehiri, 

I lea. Santa, Yauyos. 

p - CAzangaro, Carabaya, Chucuito, Huancane, 

I Lampa. 



Population 


in 1795. 


Departments. 






Arequipa, - 


- 


136,812 


Ayacucho, - 


- 


159,608 


Cuzeo, 


-' 


216,382 


Junin, 


- 


200,839 


Libertad, - 


- 


230,970 


Lima, 


- 


149,112 


Puno, 


- 


156,000 



Total, 1,249,723 



This population is composed of three original castes — Span- 
iards, Indians, and Negroes. The secondary species, arising 
from these three, are the Mulatto, from the Spaniard and Ne- 
gro ; Quarteroon, from Mulatto and Spaniard, and the Mestizo, 
from Spaniard and Indian. The other subdivisions are as nu- 
merous as the possible combination of the primitive castes. 

The coast is occupied by a chain of arid, craggy hills, and 
sandy deserts. Several lakes, many of them very extensive, 
expand their bosoms to the sky, some of which are on the very 
summits of the Cordillera. Such is generally the face of the 
country, yet its watered valleys and quebrddas contain popu- 
lous towns and villages, and enjoy a benign climate, while the 
elevated situations in the Sierra are extremely cold, the ther- 
mometer ranging, on the Pampas de Bonbon,* which are forty 
leagues to the eastward of Lima, constantly, from 34° to 40° 
of Fahrenheit. 

Almost coeval with the conquest of Peru by the Spaniards, 
the country was divided into districts or corrigimientos, over 

* Celebrated for the mines of Pasco. 



420 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

which a corregid&r or prsetor was appointed to rule, with pow- 
er to judge and punish civil and criminal offences in the name 
of the king. A tribute of one-third was exacted by law from 
every Indian over eighteen years of age, which was collected 
till he completed fifty-five, when he became exempt. The cor- 
regid&r or praetor was charged with its collection, and for this 
purpose visited all the villages and estates twice annually. The 
praetors made arbitrary distributions of goods amongst the In- 
dians, at most exorbitant prices, and which the individual 
dared not refuse, however useless the articles allotted to him 
might be. These repartimientos, or distributions, were made 
throughout Peru, excepting in the Audiencia of Quito, Para- 
guay, and the modern missions in the Sierra. The tribute was 
intended by the Spanish court for the benefit of the Indians, 
in paying the curates, teachers, and alcaldes, but, from the cu- 
pidity of the corregidores, became a system of most cruel and 
unheard-of oppression. No crime was alleged against the un- 
happy aborigines ; there was no fault save their docility and 
ignorance. 

Two modes of collecting the tribute were adopted. In the 
first, a register of the number of Indians in the praetorship, lia- 
ble to pay tribute, was made out from the baptismal and burial 
records, and an account rendered to the Royal Audiencia at 
Lima. This plan gave room to great fraud on the public trea- 
sury, for the corregid&res sometimes detained the tribute col- 
lected, in their own hands, for years, under various pretexts, 
and employed it in trade. A second plan, resorted to in the pro- 
vince of Quito, and approved by the Viceroy of Peru, Marques 
de Villa de Garcia, was to sell the tribute to the highest bidder 
at auction, and in this case the corregid&r always had the pre- 
ference. Notwithstanding the law, tribute was exacted from 
Indians two or three years before they completed the eight- 
eenth year, and long after they had attained fifty-five — even 
decrepid old men, of more than seventy years of age, and who 
begged for their subsistence, were forced to pay the tribute. 
The law exempted all the Caciques and their heirs; alcaldes; 
all who served in the church, and all those who were corpo- 
really or mentally deficient ; yet they did not escape the grasp- 



NOTICES OP PERU. 421 

ing avarice of the corregidores, who were poor men that came 
to India to make their fortunes, coute qui coute; they general- 
ly retired at the end of five years, the term for which they 
were appointed, with fortunes of from one hundred thousand 
to a half a million of dollars, according to the district allotted 
to them. 

Compassion prompted brothers, wives, and children, to task 
themselves doubly, to assist those in paying the tribute who 
were exempt by law, that they might not see their near re- 
latives cruelly scourged for its default, by the fiendish col- 
lectors appointed by the corregid&r ! Thus were they dou- 
bly oppressed. It often happened, too, that the tribute was 
twice exacted. When paid, the collector gave the Indian a re- 
ceipt, which, from ignorance and want of a place of safety for 
keeping, was soon lost, and when called on by another collec- 
tor, he was again forced to pay, in spite of every protestation. 
The Indians, when absent, were forced to pay the tribute in 
the district in which they happened to be at the time of collec- 
tion, and if they did not show receipts on their return, they 
were forced to pay a second time. If destitute of means, the 
collector seized any valuable he could lay hands upon in his 
miserable hut, and if not enough to satisfy his demand, the In- 
dian was set at some day labor, at low wages, until the debt 
was discharged. Misery and oppression soon ended his unhap- 
py days, if his wife and daughters were not able to free him 
by their extra tasks ! 

The corregid&res masked their cruel iniquity and oppression 
under a pretended zeal for the service of the king and royal 
treasury, in order to self-aggrandizement. 

In the province of Quito, besides the exaction of tribute, the 
corregid&res employed the Indians like slaves, at very low 
wages, either in weaving cotton, or in the fields of their own 
estates. The slightest pretext was sufficient to seize the mule 
or cow of an Indian, as a fine for his ofience ; in fact, no means 
of oppression were left unpractised. 

With a view of encouraging industry amongst a people na- 
turally idle, as is the case with all savage and semi-civilized 
nations, all the corregid&res south of Loxa, were directed to 



422 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

carry with them a supply of such articles as were adapted to 
the wants of the Indians, and distribute them amongst them. 
Being obliged to pay for these at moderate prices, it was thought 
would be an incentive to industry, and the means of improve- 
ment. Such was the principle of the repartimiento, or distri- 
bution, which, in practice, became the most horrible system of 
tyranny and oppression that history has recorded, and contri- 
buted in no small degree to the great bloodshed and depopula- 
tion of South America. 

On receiving his appointment, the corregid6r went to any 
merchant in Lima, whom he might find willing to give him 
credit, and purchased an assortment of articles to be distributed 
in his corregimento. He generally took a large portion of un- 
saleable articles off the merchant's hands, and paid an exorbi- 
tant price for every thing; for, being poor, he was unable to 
make cash purchases. 

He commenced the distribution by assigning to each Indian 
a certain quantity of goods, at an arbitrary price, and then 
gave a list of then) to the cacique of the village or town. It 
was in vain that the Indian protested against the price, and his 
total inability to pay for articles which he did not require, and 
of which in many instances he did not even know the use. Of 
what use was a yard of velvet or satin to these poor savages, 
for which they were charged forty or fifty dollars ! — or silk 
stockings; — to what end were locks to men living in straw ca- 
bins, without a single article of furniture, save perhaps an earth- 
en cooking vessel and a few gourd dishes. — What a cruel jest 
it was to practice on men, who, entirely destitute even of down 
on any part of their bodies, to force upon them razors, looking- 
glasses, and scissors, though they never cut their hair; yet all 
those things, and more, the Indian was compelled to receive at 
almost incredible prices. Two years and a half were given to 
pay for the first distribution, at the end of which period another 
was made ; the second was not so great, and consisted of arti- 
cles which might serve them for some useful purpose. Besides 
these two general repartimientos, or distributions, the corregi- 
d&r made frequent visits to the towns, and gave to those who 
were prompt in payment, such articles as they absolutely re- 



NOTICES OF PERU. 



423 



quired, at very exorbitant prices. In each village of his juris- 
diction, he established a shop, where all were forced to pur- 
chase, because no other was allowed. These were termed 
voluntary sales; but it must be borne in mind, that in the first 
distribution, the most useless articles were given out, and those 
of absolute necessity reserved for the second, and irregular dis- 
tributions. 

The distribution of mules will serve to give an idea of the 
repartimiento. A corregid&r generally purchased from five 
to six hundred mules, at from fourteen to eighteen dollars each, 
and allotted to each Indian from four to six, according as he 
estimated his capacity to pay for them. He charged them 
generally from forty to forty-four dollars each. The Indian 
was prohibited from hiring his mules without permission from 
the corregid&r, under the pretext of preventing illicit trade. 

When travellers or merchants required mules for transport- 
ing their baggage or merchandise, they applied to the corre- 
gid&r, who looked over his list of those who had received 
mules, and ordered those who were most indebted to him to 
undertake the journey. He received the amount of the freight, 
and reserved one-half on account of the debt ; one-fourth was 
given to the traveller or merchant, to defray the expense of 
food for the mules, and the remaining fourth was paid to the 
peones or Indians, who accompanied the caravan to load and 
feed the animals, so that nothing was left to the Indian to whom 
the mules belonged. One-half of that fourth given to the pe- 
ones was reserved, on account of th« jepartimiento or distri- 
bution of goods. 

The Indian set out on his route, which in Peru was ge- 
nerally a long and toilsome one, and it frequently happened, 
that from fatigue one of the mules died. In this case, being 
obliged to continue his journey, he was forced to sell one of 
his mules at a very low price, and with the proceeds hire two 
others, so that when he arrived at the place of destination, he 
had two mules less, and nothing as an equivalent in their place. 
He was left without means of subsistence, and a long and rug- 
ged road between him and his home. A bare chance alone 
relieved his distress ; sometimes he met with a return freight. 



424 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

which, however, from the fatigue of his mules, and their re- 
duced number, was necessarily small, and if it was enough to 
replace his loss, he thought he had made a successful trip, 
though after two or three months' absence he had gained no- 
thing. 

After the mules were paid for, the corregid6r no longer em- 
ployed the Indian, to afford him an opportunity of paying other 
debts, all of which were kept strictly under separate heads ; 
but he required payment in cloth and the products of his little 
farm or garden. Sometimes he distributed more mules, though 
the Indian did not require them, in order to increase the recua 
or drove, that he might have the advantage of employing a 
greater number. 

It not unfrequently happened, that the mules, from being 
driven hundreds of leagues, from change of climate and pas- 
ture, grew sick and died, even in a day or two after they had 
been delivered to the Indian. An instance of this kind fell 
under the notice of Ulloa in 1742. 

Sometimes they distributed or reparted wines, brandies, 
olives, or oil, which the Indians never used. For a botija of 
brandy, (aguardiente), they were charged from seventy to 
eighty dollars, and if they could dispose of it for ten or twelve, 
they esteemed themselves fortunate. 

Such was the practice of the repartimiento, and truly does 
Ulloa exclaim, " the corregid&res must have been abandoned 
by the hand of God, to practice such iniquities !" 

In 1780, the corregid^r of Chayenta, Don Joaquin de Aloz, 
and the corregid&r of Tinta, Don Antonio Arriaga, made three 
repartimientos in one year. The Indians, unable to bear such 
oppression, rose, put to death the corregid6res, and every 
Spaniard that fell into their hands. The veteran troops march- 
ed from Lima and Buenos Ayres to the interior of Peru, and 
from Jujui to Cuzco became a bloody theatre of cruelty and 
vengeance. After a desolating war of three years, the In- 
dians again fell under the Spanish yoke, and their chief ca- 
cique, Tupac Amaru, after seeing his wife and children coldly 
butchered before his eyes, was sentenced to death by the 
Spanish authorities. The executioner tore out his tongue, and 



NOTICES OP PERU. 425 

then he was quartered alive, being jerked asunder by the vio- 
lent efforts of four horses pulling in opposite directions ! This 
rebellion put an end to the repartimientos, but in every other 
respect their cruel state was not ameliorated.* 

Connected with the corregid&res and repartimientos, was a 
system of cruelty practised on the Indians, known by the name 
of Mita- 

The Mita was a law, which obliged every estate and district 
to give a certain number of Indians, to labor in the mines and 
on the haci6nd.tis. By this law the Indian xvas free at the end 
of a year ; but it was a matter of no importance ; for whether a 
'*mitayo" or not, his toils were the same, whether employed 
for the benefit of the corregid&r, the miner, or haci^ndado 
(farmer.) All the provinces of Quito and the Serrania, except 
Pisco and Nasca, were under the mita. The customs observed 
in Quito will illustrate those of the others. The haciendas were 
divided into four classes : first, the agricultural; second, those 
for grazing large cattle ; third, those for rearing small cattle ; 
and fourth, those, on which cotton and wool were manufac- 
tured. 

On an haci6nda of the first class, an Indian received from 
fourteen to eighteen dollars a year, together with a piece of 
ground from twenty to thirty yards square for his own culti- 
vation. For this sum he was obliged to work three hundred 
days in the year, sixty-five being allowed for Sundays and 
other prescribed feasts of the church. The mayordomo, or 
overseer, carefully noted the number of days the Indian had 
worked, in order to settle the account at the end of the year. 

Each Indian paid from his salary, eight dollars tribute, and 
supposing that he received eighteen, ten were left, from which 
two dollars and two reales were deducted for a " capisayo" to 
cover his nakedness, leaving him seven dollars and six reales 
to maintain his family, and to pay the fees exacted by the cu- 
rate. This was not all. The land allotted to him was so small, 
that it would not yield sufiicient maize to nourish his family; 
he was therefore usually forced to purchase from his master, 

* Noticias Secretas. 
54 



436 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

six fan6gas of corn, at twelve reales the fan6ga, malcing nine 
dollars ; so that, after having toiled three hundred days, and 
cultivated his little garden, without receiving anything but a 
coarse capisayo and six fan6gas of corn, he was brought in 
debt at the end of the year, one dollar and six reales, which 
were carried forward in the account of the next. If an animal 
died upon the estate, it was brought in, and distributed to the 
Indians at a high price, though the meat was in such a condi- 
tion that they were obliged to cast it to the dogs!* 

If his wife or a child died, the Indian's misery was at its 
height. The mitayo was anxious to find means to pay the cu- 
rate the rights of burial, and was forced to apply to his master, 
for money to satisfy the demands of the church ! If the mitayo 
were fortunate, and did not lose one of his family, then the cu- 
rate obliged him to bear the expense of some ecclesiastic "func- 
cion" or entertainment in honor of the Virgin, or some saint, 
thus forcing him to contract another debt, and leaving him, at 
the end of the year, owing more than the amount of his hire, 
without his having even touched money, or received an equiva- 
lent. In this manner the master acquired a right over his per- 
son, and obliged him to continue in his service till the debt 
should be paid, which being impossible, the Indian became a 
slave for life, and, contrary to all equity, the children were 
made to pay the inevitable debt of their father ! 

Another cruelty was practised. In years of common scarcity, 
from failure of the crops, the price of corn, which was the 
chief article of food used by the Indians, rose to three or four 
dollars the fanega ; the masters would not give it to them, nor 
increase their salaries, but sold it, and depriving them of nour- 
ishment, left them to perish with hunger ! This happened in 
the province of Quito, in 1743 and 1744.t An immense mor- 
tality was the consequence, and many towns and estates were 
depopulated. 

The only opportunity the Indians had of tasting meat, was 
when a carcass was snatched from the talons of condors and 



• Noticias Secretas. 
t Ibid. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 427 

vultures, for which they were charged an exorbitant price, 
and punished if they refused to swallow this often disgusting 
offal ! 

The Indians who became mitayos on the haciendas of the 
second class, where black cattle were chiefly reared, sometimes 
gained more than the day laborers, but their toil was greater. 
Each one was charged with a certain number of cows, and 
with the milk of which they were required to make a stipulat- 
ed quantity of cheese, that was given to the overseer on the 
last day of every week, and scrupulously weighed. If it fell 
short of the prescribed weight, the deficiency was charged to 
the Indian's account, without taking into consideration the 
season, the pasture, or the quantity of milk yielded ; so that at 
the end of the year, when his mita ought to have expired, he 
was more enslaved than ever ! 

On those haciendas where flocks were pastured, the Indian 
shepherd received eighteen dollars, if he had charge of a com- 
-plete "manada," (which in Europe is 500 sheep,) and if two, 
\-">mething more, though not double, as it should have been. 
Vhey did not escape the cruel tyranny exercised on all of their 
race. The flocks were counted every month, and if one were 
missing, unless brought forth dead, it was charged to the In- 
dian ; — though the pasture grounds were in the wilds of the 
Andes, and subject to the inroads of condors, that often car- 
ried away the lambs, in spite of the shepherd and his dogs, 
and that too before their eyes. 

The hut of an Indian was so small that he could scarcely 
extend himself in it. It contained no moveables ; his bed was 
an undressed sheep skin ; his clothes a capisayo, which was 
never taken off, not even to sleep ; his sustenance, two or 
three spoonfuls of meal, taken dry into the mouth, and wash- 
ed down with water, or chicha when he could get it ; to this 
was sometimes added a handful of corn, boiled till the grain 
burst ! 

The fourth class of haciendas, were the manufacturing, 
where wool and cotton were converted into cloths, baizes, 
serges, &c. 

With the dawn, the Indian repaired to his task. The doors 



428 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

of the workshops were then closed till mid-day, when the 
wives were admitted to give their husbands the scanty noon- 
day meal, for which a very short time was allowed. When 
darkness prevented them from working any longer, the over- 
seer entered, and collected the tasks ; those Indians who had 
been unable to conclude them, without listening to reasons or 
excuses, were most inhumanly scourged, and, to complete the 
punishment, imprisoned, though the workshop was nothing 
but a jail ! During the day, the master and overseer made fre- 
quent visits to the manufactory, and if any negligence were 
discovered, on the part of any one of the workmen, he was 
immediately chastised. All of the task left unfinished was 
charged at the end of the year, so that the debt went on in- 
creasing, till the master acquired a right to enslave, not only 
the Indian, but his whole family. 

Those who failed to pay the tribute to the corregid6r, and 
who were consequently condemned to the manufactories, shared 
a still more cruel fate. They received a real a day, one half 
of which was retained on account of the tribute, and the other 
for the Indian's maintenance, and as he was not allowed to go 
out of his prison, he was compelled to receive for it, whatever 
his master pleased to give him. Always looking to the accu- 
mulation of wealth, without regarding the means, the master 
usually gave such corn as had become damaged in his granary, 
and the carcasses of those animals that died on the estate. For 
want of nourishment, nature was exhausted ; the unhappy In- 
dian fell sick, and often died, without paying off his tribute. 
The Indian lost his life, and the country that inhabitant ; here 
is one source of the great depopulation of Peru. The greater 
number of the Indians died with their tasks in their hands. 
Complaint of sickness was unheeded, and he was deemed hap- 
py who reached a wretched hospital, where to expire ! An 
order to labor in the manufactories, was regarded with the 
greatest horror. Wives considered their husbands already 
dead, and children wept for their parents, when the order was 
received ! 

It was no uncommon thing, to meet Indians on the road, 
tied by the hair to a horse's tail, dragged to the manufactories ! 



NOTICES OF PERU. 429 

A mestizo or negro was generally the conductor, who rode the 
animal !* 

On the slightest provocation, the Indian was forced to lie 
flat upon the ground, and count the stripes on his bare back, 
given as a punishment. When he arose, he was taught to kneel 
before whoever had beaten him, and, kissing his hand, say, 
*'Dios se lo pague" — May God reward you ! It was not only 
in the workshops that they were thus punished, but private 
individuals, and the curates, often scourged them in the same 
manner ! 

This was the ordinary castigation. When the ire of the en- 
raged master was not satisfied, a more horrible mode of tor- 
ment was resorted to. Two pieces of light wood were set on 
fire, and rubbed together so as to cause the sparks to fall in a 
shower on the bare back of the Indian, while he was receiving 
the stripes! Starvation, imprisonment, and blows, were the 
corporeal pains inflicted ; but greater than all, was cutting ofi 
the hair, which was to degrade the Indian to the basest in- 
famy ! In short, no species of torment, that unbridled ven- 
geance could suggest, was left unpractised by the Spaniards. 

^' It was a common saying, among the judicious and com- 
passionate of that time, that their continued fasts, perpetual 
nakedness, constant misery, and immense punishment, suffer- 
ed from the day of their birth till that of their death, was a 
sufficient atonement for all the sins that could be attributed to 
them, and rendered them worthy of canonization, as saints in 
the church."! 

So horrible was the name of Spaniard, or Viracocha, (which 
term comprehends all who are not Indians,) that parents si- 
lenced their children by threatening that the Viracocha would 
catch them ! 

Ulloa states, that while travelling in Peru, when he wished 
to inquire his road, that it was almost impossible to come up 
with an Indian, for if his approach was perceived, the Indian 

• Indians were dragged two hundred leagues, as mitayos, to toil in the mines 
of Potosi ! MS. Report of the Governor of Jtzangaro. 
f Noticias Secretas. 



430 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

fled in terror. When closely pursued, they were known, rather 
than be overtaken, to throw themselves from precipices, at the 
risk of their lives ! 

The Indians bore this unparalleled oppression, and the reli- 
gion of their oppressors, which, in the New World, was the 
harbinger of every vice, and the destroyer of hope ; but when 
once roused from their apathy, it was impossible again to re- 
duce them to the yoke. Though the spirit of liberty occasion- 
ally scintillated since 1741, and did not burst forth in an in- 
extinguishable blaze till 1809, the Indians in the province of 
Azangaro are not entirely satisfied to this day, that the revo- 
lution of 1S21 has made them citizens of an independent re- 
public, with equal rights. They think that the whites tell 
them they are free, with a view of involving them in some 
snare.* 

For three hundred years, Peru was ruled by a succession of 
tyrants ; and since the revolution, the country has been domi- 
neered over by a set of factious military chieftains, of unbridled 
passions, who have thought of little else than self aggrandize- 
ment. A sketch of the last four or five years, will convey an 
idea of the manner in which the people have been misruled. 

In 1827, General La Mar, a man of mild virtue, and emi- 
nent worth, was elected to the presidency. He was a native of 
Guayaquil, and served in the Spanish army during the penin- 
sular war, with much credit to himself. On his return to 
America, he was appointed Inspector General of Peru, and 
soon after attached himself to General San Martin. Having 
distinguished himself in the glorious field of Ayacucho, he was 
elected President by the first Congress ; but he had too little 
of the tyrant in his character, to preside over a people among 
whom a strong revolutionary spirit seems to predominate. 
They manifested for him all that admiration and enthusiasm a 
mob is wont to display on the accession of a military chieftain 
to civil authority. His name was painted over the gates of 

• Manuscript report, drawn up by order of the Peruvian government. The 
observations were made from 1825 to 1829 inclusive. For a perusal of this 
document, the author is indebted to his friend, Samuel Larned, Esq. Charge 
d' Affaires from the United States, at Lima. 



NOTICES OF PERU. 431 

Lima, in the place of that of Bolivar ; salutes were fired, and 
bells pealed joyously on convent and church ; the city was illu- 
minated ; balls were given, and entertainments were got up at 
the theatre, and in the bull-ring. 

About the beginning of 1828, affairs pending between Co- 
lombia and Peru, assumed such an aspect as to lead to the de- 
claration of war between the neighboring republics. Peru 
drained her exhausted treasury in equipping her army and navy; 
loans were consequently exacted from the people, and gave 
rise to disafiection towards La Mar's administration. 

The armies had marched to the respective frontiers of the 
contending nations, and in September, the President of Peru 
took command of the forces, and established his head quarters 
at Loxa, where the division of the army in the south, and the 
southern recruits, were ordered to join him. Early in 1829, 
Bolivar was at Quito; the Colombian army's head quarters were 
at Cuenca, and the Peruvians had possession of Guayaquil. 

On the 24th of May, General La Fuente arrived at Callao 
from Arica, with 1500 men, well equipped, bringing with him 
equipments for a thousand more, and a large sum of money, 
coined and in bullion. When the vice-president ordered him 
to deliver up these funds, he refused, saying that they were 
intended for the pay and subsistence of his officers and men I 
which excited suspicions as to his honesty. 

On the night of the day of his arrival, he quartered his 
troops in Castle Independence. So soon as within the walls, he 
ordered the troops to load their arms ; and the governor, fear- 
ing that the general had designs upon the fortress, trained se- 
veral field pieces on the doors of the barracks in which the 
men were quartered, and doubled the sentinels at all the posts I 
The next day. La Fuente seized every horse he could lay 
hands upon, mounted four hundred men, and established him- 
self at Magdalena, a short league to the southward and west- 
ward of Lima. On the 6th of June 1829, having matured his 
plans, he ejected the vice-president and all his official adherents, 
and assumed the administration of afiairs in the name of Gene- 
ral Gamarra ! No blood was shed on this occasion. The usual 
number of proclamations were issued, setting forth the reasons 



432 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

for such violent measures, and the people, always ready for a 
holyday, threw up their caps and shouted 

•' Long live King Richard !" 

On the field of Cuenca, or Portete, La Mar commanded in 
person, and Gainarra had charoje of the body of reserve. For- 
tune frowned that day on the standard of Peru. While La Mar 
was sustaining a murderous fire from a thicket which surround- 
ed him on all sides, he ordered Gamarra to charge with his 
whole force, instead of which he ignominiously beat a quick 
retreat, and galloped off the field !* The battle was lost, and 
in a few hours afterwards. La Mar was made prisoner by order 
of Gamarra, hurried on board of a little vessel, and sent to the 
mortiferous climate of Costa Rica, where, borne down with 
chagrin, and the ingratitude of him whom he thought his friend, 
he shortly died.t 

Such was the plan of Gamarra, to elevate himself to the pre- 
sidential chair. He knew that La Mar's popularity, which 
was already diminished, would vanish if the battle of Cuenca 
were lost ; and he therefore was careful to bring about the ca- 
tastrophe by his own base desertion. 

Peace was afterwards negotiated. Gamarra became the sub- 
ject of popular acclamation, and, consequently, president. To 
reward La Fuente for his assistance, he made him vice-presi- 
dent. The self-election of these men was confirmed by Con- 
gress, and their parasites were installed in office with the usual 
oath. 

In the spring of 1831, while Gamarra was on the frontier, 
threatening Bolivia, La Fuente fell under his patron's suspi- 
cions. Soldiers were sent at night to seize him in his own 
dwelling. He fled over the house top, and the officer pursuing 
him was shot in mistake, by one of his own party. La Fuente 
sought an asylum on board of the U. S. Ship St. Louis, then 
at Callao, and soon after retired an exile to Chile. 



• El Telegrafo de Lima. 

f Soon after his election (1833,) General Orbegoso submitted a resolution 
to the National Convention, to remove the remains of La Mar to Peru, agpree- 
ably to his dying request. 



NOTICES OP PERU. 433 

On the 18th of January 1832, a conspiracy was revealed to 
Gamarra by anonymous notes, stating that a regiment, in which 
Major Ros61, a young man of great promise, had a command, 
would revolt that night, and seize upon the person of the pre- 
sident. In the afternoon Rosel drilled three companies, and 
directed them to stack their arms in the barrack yard. At eight 
o'clock, while pacing in his quarters, the colonel of the regi- 
ment entered, accompanied by a Serjeant and two soldiers, and 
ordered them to seize the major. No sooner was the order 
given, than, drawing his sword, he rushed out and called the 
soldiers to arms, and ordered them to charge a company that 
had been summoned, at the same instant, by the colonel, but 
they hung back. Rosel was seized, disarmed, tried on the spot, 
and shot the following morning at seven o'clock ! 

This instance is related to illustrate the summary process 
which has been resorted to on several occasions by Gamarra. 
Several revolutions, as all such incidents are termed, have been 
checked during his administration, and many of them are said 
to have been fictions. The people of Lima never take part in 
these disturbances, but, like peaceful citizens, retire into their 
houses, and there quietly wait till the military decide the mat- 
ter among themselves, and again resume their vocations, only 
indulging in remarks upon the <'sufibcated revolution." 

Another revolution, according to Gamarra, was to be at- 
tempted in March 1833. On the night of the sixteenth, Ma- 
nuel Telleria, President of the Senate, and ex officio Vice 
President of the Republic, (La Fuente being in exile), was 
seized at Chorillos, where he had gone to recruit his health, 
and carried a prisoner to Callao, charged with being privy to 
a conspiracy against the government. On the twenty-first, at 
midnight, he was put on board a man-of-war schooner, the 
Peruana, and carried to Panama. Some delay was occasioned 
by the desertion of her commander, Otero, a young man of 
spirit, who refused this duty, because the law prohibits any 
master of a vessel, whether Peruvian or foreign, from taking 
any individual out of the republic, without his own consent, 
under heavy penalties. 

In July, the national convention assembled, according to an 
55 



434 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

act of the constitution of 1828, for the purpose of reviewing 
and correcting the fundamental law of the government. Its 
sessions were for some time irregular. The presidential elec- 
tion was about taking place, and it is alleged, that Gamarra, 
though constantly expressing his wish and determination to 
resign, did every thing in his power to thwart the assembling 
of congress, that the election might not take place. He found 
that his popularity was fast dwindling away, and every news- 
paper in the country teemed with articles against his tyranny 
and injustice. Revolts occurred in several places north and 
south, and having appointed Camporedondo to administer af- 
fairs during his absence, Gamarra went south to quell a revo- 
lution, which had broken out in the neighborhood of Aya- 
cucho. 

The term of his administration expired on the 20th of De- 
cember; on the 19th, he sent in his resignation to the national 
convention, and in an address to the people, declared, that the 
long wished for day had arrived when he could retire into pri- 
vate life, where he should remain, unless his sword should be 
required in the service of his country. 

On the 22d, General Don Luis Jose Orbegoso was elected 
provisional president, until an election should take place. The 
convention continued its sessions from day to day, till, on the 
18th of January 1834, they were dispersed at the point of the 
bayonet by Gamarra and his satellite Bermudez ! It was a 
bloody day, and many lost their lives. Gamarra, however, 
reckoned without his host, for he was driven from Lima, and 
at the latest dates was almost alone in Arequipa, and his wife 
had sailed for Chile. 

Gamarra, who is a native of Cuzco, served in the Spanish 
army in Upper Peru, and rose from the grade of serjeant to that 
of colonel. He was placed at the head of a regiment at Cuzco, 
destined as a reinforcement of the Spanish forces at Lima; 
before reaching there, however, he, with many distinguished 
officers, joined the Liberating army, on the 24th of January 
1821. He was attached to the '< Division Libertadora," under 
the command of General Arenales, by San Martin, but during 
the whole campaign behaved in the most indecorous manner, 



NOTICES OP PERU. 435 

avoiding, in several instances, skirmishing with the guerilla 
parties, which it was his duty to engage ; and on the eve of a 
great action, he obtained permission from General Arenales to 
leave the army to hasten to Lima to inform San Martin of the 
state of affairs in the Sierra !* 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Valedictory to the south-west coast of America, and return home. 

The last two weeks of August 1833 were spent in preparing 
for our homeward bound passage, and in taking leave of our 
numerous friends in Lima, who seemed to think, that they 
could not sufficiently manifest, in any way, the warmth of their 
feelings towards us, and their regret at separation. Nor were 
these manifestations confined to our countrymen sojourning 
there ; both Englishmen and Peruvians vied in their demon- 
strations of kindness towards the officers of our happy ship. 

Captain Gregory wrote a farewell letter to General Viv6ro, 
expressing thanks for the many acts of kindness extended to 
the vessels of the United States, while the squadron was under 
his command, as well as for the many personal civilities re- 
ceived by him and his officers, from General Viv6ro, when at 
Callao. To that letter, the following was received in reply, 
which is satisfactory, because it shows on what footing the of- 
ficers of the United States Navy stand in the estimation of Pe- 
ruvians. 



* See, Memoria Historica sobre las Operaciones e Incidencias de la Division 
Libertadora k las ordenes del General D. Juan Antonio Alvarez de Arenales 
en su segunda canopaiia i. la Sierra del Peru, en 1821. For Jos6 Arenales { 
Teniente Coronel graduado de Artilleria, &c. Buenos dyres. 1832. 



436 THREK YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

"Lima, August 24, 1833. 

" SoR. Don. F. H. Gregory. 

"Dear Sir, and friend of my distinguished affection; your 
farewell letter leaves me, as well as my family, to regret that 
we can no longer enjoy the esteemed virtues of yourself and 
your officers, who all do honor to the navy of your country, 
which has always been happy in bringing up officers of distin- 
guished education, politeness, and noble deportment. To these 
superior qualifications, while I had command in Callao, I was 
unable to reciprocate, by my attentions and deportment, ac- 
cording to my wishes. I, and my family, desire that you may 
meet, both in )'^our family and in your career, every felicity 
and prosperity that you can wish. I beg you to present my 
compliments and remembrances to Commodore Hull, late of 
the Frigate United States, and to Commander Finch* of the 
Vincennes, who both honored us with their friendship. You, 
my friend, under any circumstances, can count that you leave 
here one filled with gratitude for your friendship and atten- 
tions, and who will always be 

Your very affectionate, 

grateful, and attached servant, 

<< Jose Pasql. de Viveko." 

The first day of September, in spite of our being homeward 
bound, was the saddest of our cruise. The ship was thronged 
with our friends, among whom, besides our countrymen, were 
a crowd of English, French, and Peruvian naval officers, and 
a host of citizens. There never could have been a greater show 
of warm and regretful feelings among men, than were manifest- 
ed that day ! Weather-beaten cheeks were moist with tears, 
as they grasped our hands for the last time, and descended the 
gangway to their boats ! 

About four o'clock P. M., our ship got underway, and sail- 
ing in a beautiful curve towards the shore, fired a salute of 
twenty-one guns, which was immediately returned from Castle 

• Now, Captain William Compton Bolton. 



CONCLUSION. 437 

Independence. The French brig of war Griffon, Captain Du 
Pettit Thouar, hoisted the American ensign, and fired a salute, 
which we returned ; then followed the same compliment from 
the U. S. Schooner Dolphin (Lt. Commandant J. C. Long), 
another from a French sloop of war, and again several guns 
were fired from on board of a whale ship, all of which we re- 
plied to in turn, as we glided steadily over the smooth surface 
of the bay, followed in our motions by the Dolphin, now full 
of ladies, who had come from Lima to see us off, waving their 
white handkerchiefs, as the vessel passed gracefully under our 
stern, and stood in to her anchorage. Our band was on the 
poop, playing Peruvian airs, till nearly off the point of San 
Lorenzo, when the Dolphin's crew mounted the rigging, and 
gave three hearty cheers, which were heartily returned by 
the Falmouths. — Then our music told us of "Home ! sweet 
Home," and we filled away with a gentle breeze, and placed 
the island between us and the harbor, as the sun dipt below 
the western horizon. 

We lingered in a calm during the early part of the next day, 
•close to San Lorenzo ; the sea was glassy ; the sails flapped 
mournfully; and our gorgeous stripes hung motionless ; the very 
ship seemed to regret leaving the placid waters and ever be- 
nign skies of the Pacific. 

About meridian, the breeze sprang up, and gradually fresh- 
ened, carrying us in thirteen days and some hours to our an- 
chorage in Valparaiso. There we found H. M. Frigate Dublin, 
with whose commander and officers we had been for two years 
on the most cordial and intimate terms, frequently entertaining 
each other with dinners and balls on board, whenever we met. 

In Chile, though perhaps equally sincere, the parting scene 
was not so vivid in demonstrations of regret as in Peru. We 
were dinnered, danced, and saluted, ashore and afloat, as long 
as we remained. As an evidence of the feeling which existed 
between the English and American naval officers in the Pacific, 
I beg to introduce the following letters. Such letters cannot 
be but gratifying both to Americans and Englishmen, and, 
being equally honorable to the heads and hearts of their writ- 
ers, I take the liberty (for which I ask their forgiveness,) of 



438 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIPIC. 

publishing them, believing that neither commander expected 
to see them in print. 

" j^. M. Ship Dublin. 
" Valparaiso Bot/, 24th September, 1833. 

<'Mt Dear Gregory — 

I cannot allow the Falmouth to leave this coast, without ex- 
pressing how much, individually, I shall feel the loss of your- 
self, your officers, and ship. But it is not me alone, but all 
my countrymen who feel it. Your attention and kindness can 
never be exceeded. To you our trade and commerce are much 
indebted, and 1 regret I cannot find words strong enough to 
express the feelings of gratitude for the many obligations we 
are all under to you. No ! my good friend, no Englishman 
ever knew what distress was in the presence of the Falmouth, 
or where she could reach to assist them. As senior officer of 
the English squadron, I thank you for all your friendly com- 
munications and assistance at all times, which I have reported 
to my government. Individually, I am under the greatest ob- 
ligations, and believe me, a most grateful heart thanks you 
most sincerely for it. It may not be our lot to meet again 
upon the service of our respective nations, but I trust, my good 
and dear friend, we shall do so in private life, when the 
greatest pleasure to me will be, to cultivate that sincere friend- 
ship which has so happily subsisted between us. 

" May you have a safe and quick passage home, and enjoy 

all the comforts and happiness I wish you. I enclose you my 

address, and I need not say how delighted I shall be to see 

you and your family there, as well as any of the Falmouths. 

"Believe me, my dear Gregory, 

<' Your very sincere friend, 

"J. TOWNSHEND." 



*i U. S. Ship Falmouth. 
« Valparaiso, September 25th, 1833. 
« My Dear Sir — 

" From your Lordship's generous and friendly conduct to- 
wards me, on all occasions, since I have had the honor and 



CONCLUSION. 439 

happiness of your acquaintance and friendship, I had imagined 
that the measure of my obligations was completely filled; but 
your kind farewell letter, written with a feeling and delicacy 
which have always characterized your deportment towards 
me, has increased those obligations, and leaves me where I feel 
I must always remain — your Lordship's most grateful debtor. 
I thank your Lordship, not only for myself, but in the name 
of the officers of this ship, for your kindness and attention to 
us all — and assure you, that we unite in expressing our deep 
and sincere regret, on the occasion of parting with so valued a 
friend : and we all respond most cordially to the wishes, so 
kindly expressed by your Lordship, that our destinies may at 
some future time unite us in the bonds of friendship. As an 
individual of a nation, linked to yours by feelings and asso- 
ciations which can never fail to have their proper influence 
upon me, I feel that your Lordship has, in the warmth of your 
friendship, ascribed to me more merit than the little services, 
occasionally rendered your countrymen, deserve. The gene- 
rous examples which your Lordship kept continually in my 
view, as well as those of my gallant friend, Captain Hope, and 
others, left me no choice of action, and leaves me no other 
merit, than that of having reciprocated them as nearly as my 
abilities and circumstances would allow. A pleasing part of 
my duty has been performed, in representing to the govern- 
ment your friendly conduct towards the flag of our country, 
and the important services rendered its commercial interest. 
" That your Lordship may ere long be happily restored to 
your family and country, and long enjoy every blessing of this 
life, is the sincere wish of, 

" Your Lordship's 
" Very grateful and obedient friend, 

F. H. Gregory." 
<*To the Lord James Townshend, 

" Commanding H. B. M. Squadron, 
<< Pacific Ocean.'* 

Both in Peru and Chile, we left many choice American spi- 
rits, — men whom any nation would be proud to rank among 



440 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 

her sons, and whom we glory to call our friends and country- 
men. We remember them with pride and affection, when we 
recur to the many happy hours spent together, either beneath 
their hospitable roofs, or on board our own little ship. To 
many of us, the past cruise rests upon the heart like the me- 
mory of a bright dream of fairy land, which Hope whispers 
we shall visit, and find the reality superior to the anticipations 
of imagination. 

We may never again meet, — 

" May they sometimes recall, what I cannot forget, 
That communion of heart and that parley of soul 
AVhich has lengthen'd our niglits, and illumin'd our bowl !" 

On the fifth of October 1S33, we got underway, and after 
saluting the town, and exchanging cheers and salutes with H. 
M, Frigate Dublin, we filled away, and bade a long farewell 
to the shores of Chile. We passed the Cape, and gazed upon 
the snowy peaks of the " Land of Fire,"* with the thermome- 
ter at 33° F. 

On the ninth of November, we anchored in the mouth of 
the broad expanding Rio de la Plata, and the next evening at 
Montevideo. Having visited Buenos Ayres, and the town of 
INIaldonado, we stood to sea on the evening of the twentieth, 
but did not reach Rio de Janeiro until the eighth of Decem- 
ber. 

On the fifteenth, the ship having been watered, and our sup- 
plies filled up, we got underway, and felt that we were really 
" homeward bound." On the sixth of January 1834, we crossed 
the equator into our own hemisphere, and soon gained a sight 
of the North Star, which had been so long a stranger to our 
eyes. On the thirty-first of January, we made the shores of 
New Jersey, and the next day, our ship was secured at the 
navy yard New York, having been absent two years and eight 
months, in which time we sailed 50,132 miles, in 401 days. 

Those only who have been absent on a distant station, can 
appreciate the feelings that fill the heart after so long an ab- 

• Terra del Faego. 



CONCLUSION. 441 

sence. The joy of arriving is always marred by hopes and 
fears for the health and lives of our dearest friends ; we had 
been eight months without information from our homes, and 
it was not till the return of mail, that we felt sure of their ex- 
istence. Can any one figure to himself the state of feeling with 
which the first letter is opened and read ? It is worth a three 
years' cruise to feel the joyousness of the moment, when we 
can pronounce to ourselves "All's well." 



THE END. 



56 



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